Jump to content

Maledrakh

Bones Supporter
  • Content Count

    1203
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Maledrakh


  1. This is another mini in the Bones 4 Fan Favorites expansion that really should have been in the Lost Valley expansion. The Mammoth.

    200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411 200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411 200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411 200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411 200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411 200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411

    One of the tusks snapped in two because I have butterfingers and dropped the model to the floor at one point. This highlighted a crucial difference between the rigid and more brittle Bones Black material and the rubbery Classic Bones material that would not have snapped. (At least I have never had any classic Bones snap, and I have dropped quite a few of them, let me tell you. Also the large ones.)

    Luckily the break was clean and the tusk glued on without much ado nor filling or even filing needed. It had not even warped out of shape. Can you tell which tusk broke off by looking at the pictures?

    Mammoths dissappeared after the last Ice Age about 10.000 years ago, with a holdout herd on some remote island lasting up until about 4000 years ago. Exactly why they died out is cause for much speculation. I believe the answer is a rather down to earth; "them wuz good eatin' ". I hold no truck with the  modern myth that says ancient humans were living in harmony with nature. Humans will hunt and eat other species to extinction, and have done so innumerable times in the past.

    I think humans as a species are and always have been too selfish and too small minded to see the wider consequences of their actions. Witness the ongoing burning or clearing of rain forests all over the world, the rampant overfishing of international waters, or even just the dumping of garbage everywhere from litter on the streets to throwing wet wipes down the toilet. Short term gains (or even convenience) for individual groups of humans will in most cases win over longer term conservation of our environment unless conservation efforts are forcibly enforced in force by other forceful groups of humans who are willing to actually use force. Such is the sad state of the human condition.

    Oh well,

    In the expansion art during the kickstarter, it said "huge" next to the image, but when the shipment arrived, it was not all that huge...so they called it "pygmy mammoth". It is not really all that small when placed next to a human sized model. IRL a woolly mammoth could be around 4 metres tall.

    200804-reaper-bones-4-fan-favorites-4411

    Looks about right to me.  Maybe not the largest individiual that could exist, but still within normal size parameters. Still not "huge" though. "Huge" would be a proper Fantasy mammoth.

     

    This mini was completed August 12th 2020

     

    Pygmy Mammoth, from the Fan Favorites Expansion

    Bones 4 kickstarter, delivered 2019

    Reaper Miniatures

    Sculpted by Jason Wiebe

    Made in Bones Black PVC

    102x52mm bespoke 3D printed base

    available from reapermini.com

    • Like 18

  2. I have been rooting around in the boxes of yore, and this gem was found hidden away deep within a pile of ancient metal.

    This one was built and partly painted, but also slightly damaged. The wrists have been bent to reposition the drumsticks, and one of them had snapped off. Some quick repairs and a sloppy paintjob later, ta-daa:

    200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a

    200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a 200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a 200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a 200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a

    The "Arachno-Assassins" are a small lineup of six-armed skeletons that Reaper originally released sometime around the turn of the century in their white metal Dark Heaven line. They seem to still be available from Reaper, although none of them have made it into Bones PVC, which might be indicative of their sales potential. This is a pity as some of them are quite nice.

    I bought a few of them back in the day, and still have some in various states from bare metal through undercoated to painted-and-stashed-away-somewhere.

    Well, this one is done at long last. A bit crude, but still. Done.

     

    200812-reaper-dh-legends-02167-arachno-a

    Hit me with your rhythm stick, hit me, hit me!

    Hit me slowly, hit me quick, hit me, hit me, hit...me!

    For some obscure reason, this mini made me think of the song by Ian Dury.

     

     

     

    This mini was completed August 11th 2020

     

    02167 Arachno Assassin

    Reaper Miniatures , ca. 2000

    Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi

    Metal

    30mm base

    available from reapermini.com

    • Like 18

  3. Still messing about with contrast paints, we come to the Nolzur's Marvellous miniatures Spectator and Gazers.

     

    200710-nolzur-spectator-and-gazers-1.jpg

    The Spectator and Gazer are obviously variants of the classic Beholder...

     

    More pics below the clicks

    200710-nolzur-spectator-1.jpg?w=266  200710-nolzur-spectator-2.jpg?w=252 200710-nolzur-spectator-7.jpg?w=244 200710-nolzur-spectator-6.jpg?w=242 200710-nolzur-spectator-5.jpg?w=237 200710-nolzur-spectator-4.jpg?w=249 200710-nolzur-spectator-3.jpg?w=229

    but smaller...

     

    200710-nolzur-gazers1.jpg?w=300 200710-nolzur-gazers2.jpg?w=300 200710-nolzur-gazers-3.jpg?w=300

    A lot smaller.

    I painted these with Contrasts: Terradon Turquoise and Volupus Pink. A single coat of contrast paint straight onto the nolzur light grey primer after cleaing off all those horrible mould lines and touching up with some light grey paint. I wetblended the eyestalks. The tongue is Magos Purple. The eyes are done with regular paint and gloss varnish. The tongue was also given a coat of gloss varnish.

    Really simple. Really effective.

     

    I put the Spectator on a 32mm 3D-printed base and the Gazers on 20mm bases.

    200710-nolzur-spectator-and-gazers-conan
    What you lookin' at?!?

     

    These minis were completed July 10th 2020

     

    Spectator and Gazers

    Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures, Wave 9

    WizKids

    PVC boardgame plastic

    32mm plus 20mm bases.

    • Like 21

  4. It is really easy to overthink this. It does not really matter how old the primer is. Just use a checklist:

     

    Is the primer dry and looks good? Just go for it.

     

    Is it dusty? use a big / old brush to dust it off. then go for it.

     

    Is it sticky after several days? Strip it. Strip it real good.

     

    Is it patchy or flaky? (This might happen if the model was not washed,  to remove grease or talc from the moulding process, before priming. This has been more common with metal or resin models that I have purchased second hand. Rarely a problem with plastic or PVC minis like warhammer or Bones.) Then you might want to look into stripping it, or just give it a proper wash with soapy water and an old toothbrush after brushing with a stiff brush to remove any loose or flaky primer, and when dry, give it a new coat of primer.

     

    Be aware that some resins react poorly to stripping and might be damaged or go permanently soft and bendy. Some types of stripping fluid (nail polish remover and acetone) will melt plastics such as the toothbrush and polystyrene (warhammer plastic). Google what you have to find a stripping fluid that suits your material

     

     

    • Like 3

  5. Also be aware that Army Painter have two types of "quickshade", the dips and the inks / washes

    to add to the confusion they have the same names..."dark quickshade" "Strong quickshade" etc

     

    Some of the confusion you mention might come from some comments applying to the one, and some to the other type. They are quite different.

     

    The "dip" style quickshades typically come in a tin and they stink. These are oil-based and need at least a day to dry. also they are very shiny. (they are based on a kind of furniture stain/ varnish). You are supposed to base colour the mini, then dip them into this gunk and shake off the excess. when dry the minis are mostly done and shaded. This is the so-called "army painter method". google it for a better description.

     

    The "ink" or "wash" style quickshades are water-based, come in dropper bottles and dry in half an hour or so. They are used as traditional washes. I expect it is these you have.

    • Like 2

  6. From Bones 3, the Werearmadillo

    200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-1.jpg 200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-2.jpg 200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-3.jpg 200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-4.jpg 200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-5.jpg 200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-6.jpg

    Obviously, lycanthropy has spread too far...and this is a reminder that Reaper are from Texas, where armadillos are native and as I understand it, seen as pests. I would really like to know how the sales figures for this model compares to other lycanthropes.

     

    200628-bones-3-77498-werearmadillo-conan

     

     

    77498 Werearmadillo

    from the Bones 3 Stoneskull expansion

    Reaper Miniatures 2016

    Sculpted by James Van Schaik

    Classic Bones

    50mm base

    • Like 21

  7. The last few weeks have been very busy with very little time or inspiration to paint, as the general lack of posts lately will bear full witness to.

     

    200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li 200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li

    As you might imagine, I was going for green magical flames.  I struggled with this, and it did not turn out as I had envisioned it.

    This one I count as a bit of a failure, and I am not at all satisfied with how it turned out. Maybe I will repaint the whole thing at some point but for now I am rather sick of it.

    At leaast it does look much better IRL on the table than when magnified in photos. Somthing which is a small comfort. The white for "teeth" does not work at all in the pictures and I might just redo that part and leave the rest alone. Or not. The wierd thing is that the white "teeth" are not that bad IRL. But once seen, it cannot be unseen...

     

    200614-reaper-bones-2-exp1-77352-demi-li

    What is this sorcery?! 

    Gah! Even the captions are uninspired. I should probably just go to bed.

     

     

    77352 Demi Lich

    Bones 2 Core set, 2013, from the Expansion set #1

    Reaper Miniatures

    Sculpted by Julie Guthrie

    Made in Bonesium PVC

    30mm base.

    available from reapermini.com

    • Like 21
    • Haha 1

  8. You want to wash most minis to remove mould release agent such as grease or talcum. 

    3D prints are not moulded and as such has no mould release agent.

     

    Resin prints do need a wash to get rid of excess resing (which is toxic) 

    PLA does not need to be washed.

     

    word of warning: do not wash PLA prints in water. PLA absorbs and reacts to water, at worst you might ruin your prints. 

     

    I found this out the hard way: I made the mistake to rewash a mini I already had based on one of my PLA printed bases. The base warped significantly from the water and could not be saved.

    • Like 2

  9. It all depends on the look you are going for. You do have a great looking black wolf there.

     

    The trick to using drybrushing effectively is to wipe alot of paint off the brush. (Alot!) and to vary the pressure on the brush when brushing over the mini, according to how much colour you want. Gradually building layers is key. 

     

    If you want the black wolf to look more naturalistic try using some (very) dark colours in between the layers of greys. Dark blue or dark green, even dark purple or dark red adds a spot of naturalistic to black fur. the brown you have used is a step towards this.

     

    ie, black base coat, dark grey drybrush, a drybrush here and there with dark blue, then the mid grey and ligher greys.

    Or you can mix a spot of blue, green whatever into some of the greys you drybrush with.

     

    If you want the wolf to look more greyish than blackish, start with a more heavy drybrush of grey onto the black undercoat and take it lighter in steps.

    Note that many grey wolves have hints or even areas of yellows  / sand/ beige here and there. 

     

    Also, note that many animals have a lighter underside / belly and inside of the legs than the top of their coats.

    • Like 5
×
×
  • Create New...