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Posts posted by Maledrakh

  1. There are significant differences in the properties of Bones Classic, Bones Black and Bones USA.  Bones Classic and Bones Black both PVC, very similar in most respects, but BB is harder, more brittle and can hold detail better. Both can be softened and repositioned using near-boiling water then into ice cold water to set the new position.

    Bones USA is a different material. It seems to be lighter, hard, strong but still somewhat flexible (although it can snap), and can hold very high detail.

    It is superior in most ways, but it does not seem to soften in hot water. This is a drawback if you need to reposition or unbend something.

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  2. I am not sure if this applied here, but please note that the voltage in the mains of US (110-120V) and EU (220-240V) are very different so you might need different specifications on your adapater depending on where you live. Using bits with the wrong specifics is both dangerous and will damage/ruin the equipment.

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  3. On 3/20/2021 at 12:32 PM, Dan S said:

    I don't recognise the mini's, did they remake Warhammer Quest or something? I dont really follow Games Workshop these days.




    They make a new game called "Warhammer Quest: Silver Tower" in 2016, a Dungeon Crawler-style game with Warhammer Age of Sigmar-style and new models. Quite different in many respects from the old Warhammer Quest. This proved to be rahter popular.

    The next year they released a new boxed game called "Warhammer Quest Shadows over Hammerhal" which included pre-existing Warhammer Age of Sigmar models, and I expect most of the models shown above would be from that box

    2019 saw the release of Warhammer Quest Blackstone Fortress set in the warhammer 40.000 universe, wich proved even more popular, and got several expansions.

    next week will see the release of Warhammer Quest: Cursed City taking it back to the fantasy roots with very dark overtones. It seems already to be sold out.

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  4. Legos are made of ABS plastic which is hard to cut and needs high heat to soften (much hotter than boiling water) so they can be difficult to work with.

    You will need to saw and file if you have to cut them.

    They work well with Kraggle, erm. superglue. You can prime and paint like any other hard plastic.

    Apart from that, note the above comments about the aesthetics are made to fit lego minifigs and not minatures. As long as you do not have a problem with this, go for it!


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  5. Assuming there is some stock of these minis left over from the KS fulfilment, how about doing some sort of webstore only category or even a limited time event where they can be sold without retail packaging and outside of the normal release schedule, so that the many customers that are clamouring for these minis have a chance of getting them outside of auction-site black marketeer scalpers? Other major players do similar offers.  What arguments would exist against doing this at Reaper? 

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    more pics below


    Nukalurk! (with two other RCL participants for a Trio)
    or to give the model's official name

    44099 Tidal Lurker
    from the Bones 4 Fan Favorites Expansion
    Sculpted by Kevin Williams
    Bones Black PVC
    65mm base



    210306-reaper-bones-4-44099-tidal-lurker Not content to challenge a simple Mirelurk, Grognak goes for the fabled Nukalurk!

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    The monument "Sverd i fjell" (Swords in rock / mountain) outside Stavanger in the west of Norway, to commemorate the Battle of Hafrsfjord, a sea battle between Viking factions for the throne of Norway around the year 872 where they lashed their longboats together and had it out on the decks, staining the sea red. 

    The swords are over 9 metres  /yards tall 

    This momument has always struck me as as a massive landmark akin to the giant Argonath statues along the river that the  fellowship of the rings sail past in the first part of the Lord of the Rings

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  8. On 2/17/2021 at 8:11 PM, pinkymadigan said:


    @Maledrakh - Love me some Vallejo Plastic Putty, but I generally only use it as a filler - can you go into detail on how you use it in combination with glue? Is this a mix thing, or a apply putty to one side and glue to the other and instant adhesion type thing, or something else I'm not thinking of? Thanks in advance.


    I put some Superglue on each part, then squirt a small amount of the resin in between/onto one of the parts and quickly press together. If I am to slow the mix will set and I will need to scrape it off and try again. Getting the amount of glue vs the amount of resin is the key for a good bond. 

    Sometimes I overdo both, especially when fixing a large mini to a base. A puddle of superglue in the right spot on the base, dip the foot in the puddle, squirt on a dollop of plastic putty and press the part down. Boy, does that set hard and make for a very strong bond. (and oftentimes messy.)

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  9. The above is a very good write up.
    I would like to add to this or highlight that Bones Black and Bones USA are very different materials with different properties (bones black and bones classic are much more similar to one another than to bones USA). Each of the materials have a distinct "feel" to them, which is apparent when comparing minis IRL and working with them to remove mould lines and such.

    However BB and BUSA are similar in the sense that both hold great detail and far superior in that way to classic bones material.
    IMHO Bones USA holds detail even better than Bones Black and maybe even metal, as is on par with many boutique-grade resin minis in the quality of the details.

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  10. I got the Darius mini the other day. I would add to my Bones USA experience the following: 


    The plastic is problematic when removing the broccoli base with clippers. The base broke and shattered like glass under the clippers, fracturing the material in more spots than where the clippers are cutting.

    It does not behave similar to the other bones materials. This makes modding more difficult than with the other bones materials.

    There were some rather prominent mould lines all over, and a piece of vent on the tip of the hat that was difficult to carve off without damaging the point of the hat. There was a wild blob of material(?) on the cape that needed carving and sanding.







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  11. rule of thumb, they started at 77001 with the very first pre-kickstarter bones, and just continued on using the same number sequence for subsequent releases after/from the kickstarters.  The lower the SKU number is,  the earlier the release. and vice versa. The recent bones 4 releases are in the 77600s.
    Note that bones black, chronoscope, pathfinder, and such other IP-series have other SKU series than 77XXX

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