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Maledrakh

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Maledrakh

  1. Another example, this time shiny and chrome!: Shiny and Chrome! Paint job: simple but effective. And above all, fast! Asterian Marionettes for Warpath by Mantic games. I started with a black undercoat, then black metal (very dark silver). Then drybrushed with gunmetal, shining silver and edged with a light drybrush of Sophie Silver (a pearlescent white). The entire model is then painted in Citadel Nuln Oil Gloss shade. Details and done. Like one of the posters above says, treat it like normal paint with highlight and shadow. Here the shadow is made by the darker bottom colour and the final nuln oil shade, while the hightlights are made by the drybrushing, keeping the lighter towards the top half, and lightest at the very top, such as the head and the pauldrons.
  2. To be fair. their bases do look eerily similar to Reaper's Broccoli Basestm
  3. This is familiar pack X https://www.reapermini.com/search/familiar/latest/03567
  4. I can confirm that Vallejo Surface Primer -70.614 - Israeli Sands works well with Bones USA, Bones classic, 3Dprinter water washable resin, metal, resin, PVC in general and HIPS plastic. all through an airbrush. (and after the models are washed to get the mould grease off) The same goes for vallejo surface primer black
  5. remember that you have 5 to 10 layers per millimenter, depending on your settings. And the minis are small. They will look fine when printed on the mars and you won't see any lines apart from in extreme close up.
  6. I used to use vallejo black ink straight up (it is quite glossy, but very strong pigments so it darkens alot), or I have dipped the brush in some water, and dabbing it gently on some paper right before I take some ink into the same brush. It thins as I paint. Recently I have moved to using citadel nuln oil gloss shade, which includes a high gloss and does not darken too much IMO. This I mostly use straight up, and draw off excess with the brush to avoid too much pooling or tidemarks. You should be able to make a similar effect by mixing some gloss mixer or even gloss varnish with your black ink/ shade and some water to avoid it darkening too much. If you want a yellow or red gold, use brown or chestnut ink instead of black. Examples: Nuln oil gloss on these, over a true metallic base with a single drybrushed highlight with a lighter metallic, and some detailing after (and all this on a black or zenithal black/white undercoat,) This method is also quick and easy to get an acceptable tabletop result just on a single coat of metallic. Hightlighting and all that is optional. The gloss gives it a natural metallic-glinting hightlight, and the ink gives it a bit of shade. I like to start out with metallics on armoured models as it tends to get messy. I drybrush most highlights before the gloss shade, and then detail a bit (such as rivets, raised edges, spikes). Not too much, seeing as I am lazy. Then all the other colours, bronze/gold dark steel/ gunmetal/ silver platemail/ silver + gold
  7. I believe the B4MAP is an assortment of new releases intended for retail shops, and not a product intended for retail customers.
  8. Look up midwinter minis on youtube, he has one where he paints an eldar battleforce really quick. He uses some cheap nail make up flakey product that he crushes and paints on to get a striking oily sheen like effect. That might be a good solution for your shoggoth eye
  9. Try gloss black ink wash on top of the metal. It works wonders for me to get the clean look.
  10. I would suggest that you should try a peach or pinkish flesh colour instead of yellow or bright orange.
  11. Don't you just love it when your guesstimates turn out to be correct?
  12. I had a model crack on me something fierce, one of the flying cars from cyberforge. I had hollowed it out and made holes underneath inside the peg-hole for the flying stand, but it turned out I had not managed to flush it out properly and after a time it cracked all along one side and some watery, thinned liquid resin came out. (I use water washable resin.) I chalk this one down to inexperience. But anyway, about your cracks: Might there be some liquid resin trapped inside?
  13. I think it turned out well. top tip: try painting a layer of either ochre / buff or reddish brown/ chestnut before you paint orange, depending on if you want it bright or muted. I find this saves a lot of coats/unevenness. (also, use buff or bone under yellow, same reason), especially if you use black or grey undercoats.
  14. The Bones USA models have mould lines just like other bones models, so a 2 or more part mould is used. There was a broken gate-piece (which broke off flush to the base at a touch) with some extra material beneath the base of one of them, and corresponding marks on all, which I believe would be indicative of a sprue containing several minis at once, similar to the centre round sprue-thing (whatever it's called) seen when casting metal models. There were also vent-like bits of pointy flash at extremes such as the tip of swords, tip of staff, tip of the bow. This would be to avoid air bubbles forming (showing the importance of learning from the Finecast experience) That is a great and informative video there, though it seems to skip quite a few steps. Indeed, thermoplastic models need to be soft when pulled to enable undercuts. Then the plastic memory sets as they cool down, which causes bendy noodle weapons, deformations and all that. In this video we see the watertank they use for this.
  15. another thing is that it is more difficult to get a very smooth finish on broad flat surfaces with miniature acrylics such as reaper, unless you paint several (=a lot of, depending on what colour you want) thinned coats, or even paint with an airbrush. This is both because of the thicker consistency of the paints and the much faster drying time. It is easy to get streaks and patches with acrylics when painting over semi-dry paint (which can happen in seconds). Enamels usually have far longer drying time (hours, not minutes), which also can result in a smoother surface as the paint has more time to level itself before setting.
  16. Yes, all of these were done in an evening. Mostly waiting for the paints to dry. Each model does generally not take more than 10-15 minutes effective painting time at most with this technique, and alot of that is recolouring in white to cover previous overspills before applying the next colour, since they are very translucent. Painting time is significantly reduced by being neat and keeping within the borders, so to speak. It really is a fast, one and done, low-skill approach to painting. I view it as another tool in the tool kit, and perfect for these models that would otherwise not get painted at all.
  17. in reality, she is smuggling a tentacle-faced Child of Dagon from the docks to the hidden chapel, all the while brandishing a gravel-filled grouper as a makeshift kosh in case anybody gets too close
  18. @SotF Top Tip: Prime translucents with clear varnish, it gets rid of the hydrophobia (that the paint sometimes won't stick to the model in patches) and lets both paints and washes stick to the material without affecting the translucency. Use matte or satin for regular paints or washes, gloss if you want the jelly bean-look :)
  19. any chance of a videoclip showing how these are made?
  20. AFAIK only the Learn to paint kit-set, the krampus 2020 freebie and the january Lysette redesign freebie are currently in Bones USA. maybe some other promofigures. The first quarters' releases in bones are (almost) all from the bones 4 core set, and in classic bones.
  21. Educated guesstimate based on historical evidence: Both yes and no. at least for the forseeable future. Even though they might move a lot of production inhouse to the USA with the Bones USA material, they will still be needing Chinese factories that make the classic and the Bones black, simply to be able to deal with the bulk of the production as long as they are running kickstarters with 10.000+ pledgers. They still produce new Bones classic models through the kickstarters such as the still being produced Bones 5. Even though many or even most of the human-sized and smaller models are moving towards Bones Black, there will still be alot of larger minis made in "classic" Bones. And when I say "Classic Bones" it is worth noting that there also has been a significant development of that material over the years. What is made in classic bones today is a far cry from the rubbery, detail-phobic material of most of the first(and second, even thought there was a marked improvement there as well) bones KS. Compare any of the stark white bones models with the models in the Bones 4 Core set for example, both are sold as "classic bones". However, I can see them increasingly moving to in house Bones USA for restocks when the initial china-production runs out.
  22. Limited Palette (4) - Each month will have three different colors limited palette, reaper paints only, black or white are allowed with your three other colors. Example: Blue/red/green You must choose a shade of each one, for instance Clear blue/Brick Red/Forest Green = those are your three colors for that month. Q1: Surely not ALL Minis have to be painted just in these three colours? One minis done up like this is enough to enter and score? new release march 2021: 77976 Lost Souls (5) 12.99 Q2: Are these the translucents from the Barge? Since they are releasing in March, do they count towards "new releases" for the first quarter? (I have painted all the others already...so I don't have anything else to paint from the entire first quarters Bones releases.)
  23. or, Contrast Paints vs Old Bones, continued. A while ago I painted an old Bones model in contrast paint, just to see how it would turn out. Actually, not too shabby was the answer. Now, the thing is that I have a couple of drawers full of minis that are undercoated all in white. These are mainly from the first Bones kickstarter and Drake the Dragon Wargame. (I don’t even remember why I used white primer. Maybe I was all out of black primer spray or something.) I have been rummaging a bit again, and been looking at these minis, to be reminded exactly why the old Bones 1 pc-type minis were consigned to the Drawers of Oblivion™ in the first place. Bendy. Soft. Shallow details. Faces without noses. Hands without fingers. Weapons made for poking around corners…, mould lines that are really diffucult to remove as they need to be carved off...and sometimes go through details. They were doomed to stay there in Limbo forever as I never considered those models to be worth spending time on. Well, I paint to relax. To get the sense of something done. I am not one of those that need every single mini to be the best they can be. That is for a very select few minis. But I do like to have my models painted and on the shelf and not just undercoated and hidden away in some dark drawer. Even the ones that do not capture my imagination. The Plan So, what I have done for now, is to assign ten of my mini holders (=old glass paint jars with a big lump of blue tack on the lid) to "Project Colouring In". This is a long term project where I select ten of the old white undercoated models, stick them on a mini holder each, and place these minis all over my painting desk. Every time I open a contrast paint, or even have some other paints left over on my palette, I will try to get some of it on to one or more of these models as well. What usually happens when I have semi-painted models cluttering up my work space is that over time I get sick of the sight of them and make an effort to finish the offending models. So the idea is to get the older models painted in addition to whatever I am actually wanting to paint, simply by nickeling and dimeing them like this. When one is done, I replace it on the mini holder with another of the old minis. In this way, I should ever so slowly manage to churn through the collection, if given enough time. Maybe this whole plan will go the way of the shelf game (which is, the way of the dodo) and the partially painted minis will just go back in the drawers. But maybe not...and the plan might just about work. We shall see. The key is to get some paint on the models and not be too fussy about anything. Laissez-faire! Sure, it's lazy painting, so what? These are models that would never get painted otherwise. (And they still look better than Mage Knight prepaints. Admittedly, that is mainly because I care enough to paint the eyes.) So anyway. I did three last week. Here are seven more: clicks gets youse pics
  24. 1.I used a #11 scalpel, both the sharp blade and the back of the blade. I did not try a file. Based on how it responded to the scalpel I would think a file should work, but with slight resistance and feathering the same way as with Bones Black. i.e. not as good as metal, but much better then classic white bones. 2. I used water that I boiled in a water boiler, then poured over into a cup. It would be close to boiling but rapidly cooling. I think the material softened ever so slightly, but not enough to reposition and it did not hold the shape I held it in after being subjected to cold water. I held the part in the hot water for 30 seconds to a minute. for reference: with bones /PVC a bent sword will straighten out in 1-3 seconds after being put into hot water, and turn rubbery-flexible with 3-5 seconds, depending on the thickness. (It is possible the bones usa would soften if left in the hot water long enough. Some thicker regular bones bits need more than a minute to soften enough to reposition, but that is due to the thickness more than anything.) 3. I have not tried. If this is, as @Reaper_Jon states in his post about the promo models, is actually an injected thermoplastic, they should soften if enough heat is applied. I would advise against using open flames in any case, as the fumes presumably would be toxic. 4. Sorry, that is too late. I have primed all the ones I recieved. (I simply did not think of this) Probably should have kept one or to for testing to destruction...Reaper, please feel free to send me more Bones USA for vigourous testing ;) However, based on the "matte" feel of the plastic after washing, and how strongly the primer adheres, I think it should be OK to paint straight on top of it.
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