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Posts posted by Maledrakh

  1. Update #2: Super glue works fine, especially when combined with acrylic resin (vallejo plastic putty) which is a combo I use alot as it sets faster then just superglue and is rock hard. The resin acts also as a filler / gasket which makes the bonding surface greater.


    Vallejo black primer applied by airbrush works fine. It is now 16 hours since application, the primer seems to have cured well and resists scraping with a finger nail, (unlike the 3D printed PLA bases I put them on where the primer comes off when scraped)


    Verdict for glue and primer: very good.

    • Like 14
  2. Bones USA review, part 2:


    Mould lines: behave more or less the same as on Bones Black. Specifically, some of them can be scraped off, but they do not want to, so it will be necessary to carve as well.
    Verdict: The material is easier to clean mould lines off than Bones Classic, but not as easy as metal.



    Hot Water trick to straighten bent bits: Does NOT work. That means that the material either is not a similar thermoplastic to PVC or even a resin such as polyurethane, or if it included such thermoplastics, the compound also includes materials that need a much higher temperature than near-to-boiling water. Luckily the slight bending present in a couple of the models is not very pronounced. Maybe I can use brute force to straighten like with metal, but I doubt it as the material seems too flexible for that.


    Shrinkage: I got out the calipers and have compared both whole minis and parts of minis. The Bones USA models are measurably smaller than Bones Classic models, and have shorter weapons, shorter shields etc by a half a millimetre or more. 

    Exception:  the wizard seems to be exactly the same height in both materials.

    The bases are not the same thickness, wich makes measuring a bit of a pain, though.


    The size differences might have other reasons than pure shrinkage in this material. Several details here and there lead me to believe that maybe these are not quite identical to the classic bones models. One could speculate that master models in metal or resin have been used, and one was digitally scanned and details changed in the computer before the mould was milled from the digital files, and the other maybe physically cast in moulds directly from the metal masters. Or some similar process. 

    For example, the rivets in the chest that the pirate carries are more ring-like in Bones Classic, and the rivets are filled out in Bones USA. The sword of the chaos warrior is a lot shorter (2.5 mm or so) in the Bones USA version, the shape of the head of the Bones Classic pirate is longer/more oval than the Bones USA one. There are several such small details here and there that are just slightly different.

    Maybe the material shrinkage is different in the masters used as well, if one was resin and the other metal they would probably not be the same exact dimensions. 


    However, the size differences are not really noticable when the minis are standing on the table next to each other. It is only when in close up comparison this is any sort of an issue.


    So far today , I have cleaned up what mould lines I found, and have given them a hot water bath with washing up detergent and a thorough scrub with a nail-brush. We will see how they glue and paint up at a later date.








    • Like 15
  3. So Christmas Eve 2020 brings gifts at the post office; a pack of Bones USA. I believe they are the LTPK models. Together with a breast cancer awareness pink. I won these in a lucky prize draw on twitch some weeks ago. (I live in Norway, these things take time to arrive ;)


    First impressions - generally positive.


     the look and feel:


    Spuncast. They "feel" spuncast.


    These have a very similar feel, apparent hardness, weight and heft to them as the minis from other companies known to be made in "spuncast resin plastic".


    They have a similar smell too, which probably is mould release grease/silikon. However, the odour is less apparent than with other spuncast minis I have handled. My fingers do feel slightly greasy after touching them in the same way as well, even thought the models themselves do not feel greasy as such.


    They will definitely need a bath before painting, just like the other bones.


    Very good definition of detail. I would go as far as to say "metal quality", at least on par with Bones Black.


    They have a slight flex to them, which is good. They do not seem brittle, but st the same time not rubbery at all. They could be described as a more flexible Bones Black maybe?

    They have withstood the drop test, falling 1,5m or so to the floor without damage. (Bones black did not pass the same test)


    There are some mould lines, more pronounced on the skeleton and orc than on the pirate and halfling. Generally the mould lines are not very apparent on the models, just here and there.

    The mould lines seem to be on the same level as on any given metal model.  If they can be scraped  like on metal or bones black, they will pose no problem at all. If they need to be carved off like on classic white bones, they will be similar work to classic white bones. I suspect the former will be the case.


    There is also evidence of vent-flash (slivers of extra material, like on metal models) at extreme points such as the end of a sword and the end of a staff. This also makes me think these are spun cast like metal and not injection moulded like Bones or HIPS plastic.


    Also, what seems to be evidence of slight shrinkage when compared to classic Bones. The Bones USA chaos warrior seems to be about 1 mm shorter than the Bones classic one. The sword is shorter by 2,5 mm. That might be a redesign or something, as the rest of the model does not seem that much smaller.


    Several weapons were slightly bent when they arrived, much like Bones black.



    Further review to follow when I get the time. Now I am off to make Christmas dinner. 





    • Like 13
  4. On 12/19/2020 at 11:34 PM, Reaper_Jon said:




    3 colors only. and can be primed black, white, OR grey. 
    So if it says "Green" you can choose any shade of green you wish. Just remember to take a photo of your finished model with those three colors.


    ...so, if it says "Green" you can choose any single shade of green, or any number of different greens as long as they are all green, they count as 1 "green"? If not, what about mixing? 

    • Like 2
  5. From the first Bones kickstarter:

    I am diving into some more of the white-undercoated Bones 1 models that are cluttering up my Drawers of Doom, models that for some reason or other have been stuck in limbo never to get to painted-heaven. These Bones are mainly painted with Contrast Paints for speed.



    This is 77119 Sinessa, Hellborn Sorceress.

    It was part of the "Bedevilled" subset of the Bones 1 Core set.

    Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. 25mm base.


    The Skin is Flesh Tearers Red Contrast with a careful drybrush of thinned Citadel Wazdakka Red Layer on. The Gold is Vallejo Necro Gold and old Chestnut Ink.

    • Like 17
  6. I am diving into some more of the white-undercoated Bones 1 models that are cluttering up my Drawers of Doom, models that for some reason or other have been stuck in limbo never to get to painted-heaven.

    This was painted mainly with the so-called "one and done" method; a single coat of Citadel Contrast paints on a white undercoat, apart from a few details in regular paint, such as the sword and belt buckle done in metals and the whites of the eyeballs. Some black used for blacklining around some of the edges and Vallejo Sand Yellow for the hair.
    The rim of the base needs a second coat of black.



    77164 Elliwyn Heatherlark, Gnome Bard.

    Sculpted by Derek Schubert. 25mm base.

    It was part of the "Half Sized Heroes" subset of the Bones 1 Core set.

    • Like 17
  7. 18 hours ago, haldir said:


    Again, kinda eh for me. Guess it all part of the glut of minis I have right now. I kinda wish the w'bears were a bit thicker thou. I like em stockier. I do like the one with the shield.


    Yes, these svelte bears are obviously early spring werebears, that have just roused from their long winter hibernation-sleep and therefore have no body fat left. Now they are hangry and have come out to play feed.
    OR they are the kind of werebears one can read about in all that so-called romance serialized novels that are cluttering up the bookstores these days. You know, the ones with all the abs on the covers. 

    • Haha 4
  8. 201204-lost-adventures-blight-dragon-1.jpg?w=745


    From Lost Adventures / Lost Dragons: The  Blight Dragon. Printed in a single piece on my Elegoo Mars Pro. 
    I made an 80x130mm base for it, printed on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. You can see the print lines clearly in the pic. This illustrates the differences in PLA and Resin prints.

    • Like 9
  9. As has been said, Bones Black was a new material introduced during the production phase of the Bones 4 kickstarter.  During the KS itself, no mention had been made about it (as far as I remember).


    In the Bones 4 kickstarter, the Core set was produced in regular light grey Bones Classic, ostensibly because production had been started on those specific figures before they discovered the "Bones Black" material as a production option.


    The expansions were all made in Bones Black, while the Core set and a few add ons such as the wraiths and the larger models were made in Bones classic.


    When it comes to releasing to retail, Reaper portions the KS models out over a long period so as to not overwhelm the market and distribution network, they are still releasing Bones 4 KS models (most of/ all the bones and bones black models since last year are from the Bones 4 KS).


    It is simply a case of Reaper releasing the Bones Black models (from the expansions) before they started releasing core set models. That is the reason for the OPs observation.




    • Like 1
  10. To discover something new every day; Reaper has a part of the forum dedicated to writing!

    ahem. Sorry to butt in.


    Silly question: I see references to both "word count" and "page count". When someone here refers to having written "pages", what kind of pages does this actually refer to? Equivalent to approximately how many words?

    • Like 1
  11. Mine is a bit wavy like that only less pronounced. They are made in regular bones.

    You will also probably discover that the legs will bend under the weight over time -unless they have started making them in a more rigid plastic since the original KS where I got mine from. Since yours is grey I expect it is cast more recently than those in the kickstarter. They started dying the regular Bones models for retail grey insted of white after the bones 3 KS was delivered, moving to everything in grey around the time Bones 4 was delivered.


    I believe they have addressed several issues with bendyness at least in part with more recent production batches when compared to what was delivered in the KS.


    This issue with bendyness is fixable by dipping the parts in near boiling water for a few minutes or so, then holding down on a flat surface to reshape, and dunking in ice cold water for a while to set the plastic.


    To make sure the parts fit together properly, do this one more time with both at once and hold them together to shape.

  12. 1 minute ago, Gadgetman! said:

    Yes, and?   


    A Harding fiddle customarily has from 7 to 9 strings...  

    (4 on top, the rest is mounted below, and resonates)


    sorry for derailing the thread. Yes, the Harding has sympathetic strings mounted beneath the primary strings. I only wantet to point out that the model is not accurate anyway.

    • Like 1
  13. OSL the simplest version, from my Thorns of the Briar Queen post:



    190128-wu-nightvaultthorns-of-the-briar- 190128-wu-nightvaultthorns-of-the-briar- 190128-wu-nightvaultthorns-of-the-briar- 190128-wu-nightvaultthorns-of-the-briar-

    Varclav the Cruel  OSL (object source lighting) is actually really easy to do. First paint the mini as normal, then the light source (candle flame here). Then hit the bits that would light up with an appropriate colour. Yellow in this case. Vary the colour shade towards brighter the closer, and darker the further away from the light source you are. make sure to not get colour in where there should be shadow. And Bob's your uncle!



    • Like 6
  14. My experience with artists' acrylic inks is

    1) that they go on smoothly with an airbrush...as long as the needle is straight and not bent at the tip, which will cause splatter.

    2) They are not hard wearing, so drybrushing on top is not a good idea, as this has a good chance of pulling the ink off in places.

    3) for the same reason, they are not good for the first undercoat on any model. Use a regular primer first, then the ink to add colour or  zenithal effect.

    4) they are for the most part very intense and saturated colours.

    • Like 2
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