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Maledrakh

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Posts posted by Maledrakh

  1. Another 3D print today, this time from Lost Kingdom Miniatures current (October 2020) Patreon release. The Canopic Sorcerer

    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce

    More info, pictures and awful puns below.

    Since they started, Lost Kingdom miniatures have been releasing .stl-files for three factions; The Cuetzpal Saurian Ancients, The Magmhorin Infernal Dwarves and The Undying Dynasties.

    The Cuetzpal are lizardmen with a prehispanic south american look to them, the Infernal Dwarves have a distinctly snaggeltoothed chaos-starred Sumerian look to them with both big hats and curly beards, and the skeletal Undying Dynasties have an ancient Egyptian undead look to them.

    What a surprise! Lizardmen, Chaos Dwarfs, and Tomb Kings; all discontinued WFB armies made in the same vein and similar stylings as GW did back in the day. Not terribly original at all, is it?

    They do have one great redeeming factor though. Those .stls are quite simply ace.

    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce
    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce
    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce
    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce
    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce
    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce

    This is a resin print I made on my Elegoo Mars Pro. It is printed in 3 parts, the Hand of Sand, the mummy's body and the staff hand. I put it all on a 40mm base I had lying around.

    It looked less sloppily painted before I saw it magnified in the pictures. Argh.

    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce

    "Meet the Hand of Dune!" a hollow rasping voice resounded.

    "The Hand of Doom? Didn't I chop his head off that time....?"

    "No, foolish, well-grown mortal! The Hand of DUNE!

     

     

    201020-lost-kingdoms-oct20-canopic-sorce

    "Close your eyes, Mary! Don't look at it!"

    "It's beautiful! Aaaaugh!"

    .

    This mini was finished October 20th 2020

    • Like 22
  2. On 10/16/2020 at 2:52 AM, Darcstaar said:

    Glad this has unlocked new options for you.  Some great work.  The Alpha has a little shiny spots/flecks that appear bright/white, or is it an actual white residue?

     

    ah, those are reflections because the black contrast paint used is very shiny where I have not painted over it with the matter green. I probably should have given the whole thing a coat of matte varnish before taking the photos, but did not think of it since the shinyness is not really all that apparent IRL when not lit up for taking pictures.

    When I look at the model now IRL I actually like the shiny-in-places effect, it makes it look oily and dangerous, like Armus the Skin of Evil.

    • Like 2
  3. 23 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

     

    Check your build plate.  Grab it by the top block in one hand and the plate in the other and try to move the plate, side to side or rotationally.  If it moves at all, you need to take it apart and tighted the screws inside.  There are good instructions for this on YouTube.  I had to do that a month or so a go.  Apparently, it just gets loose over time. There are 4 screws inside that need to be set and tight. If any loosen the plate can move slightly during a build.

     

     

    The other thing I would check is your screw and rail(s) look at the areas where the screw would be at at 5 and 10mm as it builds.  I suspect it could have a worn or flat spot on the screw that causes the plate to loosen when it passes that spot first at 5mm and then at 10mm (enter and exit).

     

     

    Some time ago I had a problem with my PLA printer that made lines in the print where there should not be any. This was caused by the z-axis screw rod needing some oil, as it got partially stuck in places. might this be a similar case?

     

    • Like 2
  4. This is the kind of project that (without my looking at it in depth or at all other than the above...which pretty much disqualifies me from having anything else than a superficial opinion) seems to be a few years late.

     

    Simply put, this sort of thing might have been a smash hit in 2013-2014 maybe even 2015. But now the novelty of KS has worn off for many, the saturation of projects and general economy means that to succeed a project will need to be a cut above or really, really well thought out.
     Not sure if this is either.
     

    • Like 2
  5. Mine -original 80s Grenadier lead- weighs in at 1340grams, which is just a smidgen under 3 pounds. But I think I am missing at least one of the shields, and maybe some goblins. I will need to revisit it at some point, it is in a sorry state of unfinished disprepair.

     

    Pewter is lighter than lead, but I dont know how much lighter it would be. This is a kind of model that would benefit greatly from being redone in modern resins.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  6. At the very end of the Lost Valley, the bossfight: Clubtail!

     

    200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-1.j

    A plant eating 4-ton tank armed with a deadly morning star tail, an armoured hide with spikes, -a fantasy version of an Ankylosaur. The clubtail is larger than the fossil record of Ankylosaur supports. Also the spikes are overstated in comparison. A lot.

    At any rate, the Ankylosaur was contemporary with the Tyrannosaurus Rex and the Triceratops. All are from what is now North America in the late Cretaceous period, roughly 68 million years ago. It needed that armour.  The question remains: What did it use the club-like tail for? To smesh predators? Rivals? Trees? An impressive display to attract mates? All of the above?

    And the clubtail has spikes. Did I mention the spikes?

     

     

    200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-2.j 200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-7.j 200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-3.j 200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-4.j 200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-5.j 200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-6.j

    I detest painting spikes. It takes absolutely ages and I invariably lose patience and botch the job. These look OK for tabletop but do not stand up to close scrutiny at all. At least it is done. Together with the entire Lost Valley Expansion! Woot!

     

    200930-reaper-bones-4-44076-clubtail-con

    The Clubtail is, in fact, the distant forebearer of the modern day Dragon Tortoise aka Koopa.

     

     

    I made it a 125mm x 100mm base.

     

    44076 Clubtail

    from the Lost Valley Expansion

    Bones 4 kickstarter, delivered 2019

    Reaper Miniatures

    Sculpted by Jason Wiebe

    Made in Bones Black PVC

    125x100mm bespoke 3D printed base

    available from reapermini.com

     

    • Like 22
  7. Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures still make some great D&D monsters, here are three more:

    200925-nolzurs-monsters.jpg?w=300

     

    Wave 1: Displacer Beast

    200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-3.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-1.jpg?  200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-4.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-1.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-9.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-8.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-7.jpg? 200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-6.jpg?

    The Displacer Beast is one of the iconic D&D monsters, described as a six legged panther with a pair of enormous tentacles growing out of it's back.  If that is not bad enough, the schtick of this beast is that is displaces.  This is an ability that makes it appear as it is a few feet off from where it actually is, so while the party are slashing at the image in thin air, the beast invisibly outflanks them with it's powerful claws and massive bite attack coming from seemingly out of nowhere.

     

    200925-nolzurs-w1-displacer-beast-conan.
    Where are the mirrors I need to start breaking?

    I rebased it on a 40mm round. This is a Wave 1 mini, released a few years ago. The tentacles needed repositioning using the  hot water/cold water technique.

     

    Wave 11: Grell & Basilisk

    Grell:

    200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-1.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-2.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-3.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-7.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-4.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-5.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-6.jpg?w=300

    Who names these monsters? Grell?  What kind of a name is that? This is obviously the Flying Spaghetti Monster!

    The tentacles did not turn out all that well. The purple was too strong compared to the other colours and dried too fast to blend. Bah!

    200925-nolzurs-w11-grell-conan.jpg?w=300
    Check out the big brain on Brett!

    40mm base.

     

    And in the same pack as the Grell, a Basilisk:

    200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-1.jpg?w=300 200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-6.jpg?w=294 200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-5.jpg?w=251 200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-4.jpg?w=205 200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-3.jpg?w=287  200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-2.jpg?w=202

    This one was significantly smaller than I expected. Please disregard the piece of flock-fluff on it's right side middle. This is a loose particle I did not see was stuck there until after the pictures were taken. I just cannot be bothered with taking new ones.

    200925-nolzurs-w11-basilisk-conan.jpg?w=

    Nice doggie?

    30mm x 20mm oval base.

     

     

    Nolzur’s Marvelous Miniatures

    Wizkids

    I have no idea who sculpted these, as WizKids do not -as far as I know- publish this info.

    PVC

    • Like 20
  8. Here is a tip when making thing very dirty or otherwise having mostly the same colour all over:

    To avoid everything just looking the same, make sure to paint the important bits to stand out: such as the face, the hands, other points of interest, weapon edges.

    This creates something for the onlooker to focus on, and lets the onlooker "read" the miniature as more than just a lump of brown mud.

     

    For the nightstalkers, I would suggest to make sure that the eye sockets and nose-holes look deep (I use pure black) and the teeth are white/light yellow or tan. Also give the weapons silver edges to show they are really sharp and dangerous.

     

    If you are completely new to painting minis, I would suggest the following steps to paint the entire miniature muddy:

     

     

    1. base coat black or preferably dark brown, then when dry

    2. Choose a mud colour that is lighter then what you want to end up with and paint the mini all over, including the base, then when dry:

    3. Use a dark brown wash, shade or ink-type paint  (or take some dark brown paint and thin with water until it is runny like milk. this is called a "wash", the wash is transparent and will tint the bit you paint, and also gather in pools in the recesses creating shadows) paint this all over the mini to create shade and bring out the details. (Optional: if the wash gathers in too big pools, use a damp brush to wick away most of said pools. Remember to leave a bit to create the shading you want.)

    Let dry completely.

    (second optional: if you think the mini is too dark at this point, paint just the outer details in your chosen mud colour to lighten it. Use the "drybrush" method described in an above post for this)

    4. Paint some important details such as eyesockets, nostrils, teeth (white lines are fine, you don't need to dot in all the single teeth), other bits as you like. Some silver on the edges/points of weapons and armour.

    5. Optional: paint all over with glossy or satin clear varnish. This will make the mini shiny and look wet.

    6. paint the rim of the base in any colour you choose. Black is a common choice, grey, brown or dark green also work well. You might need to do several coats, make sure the colour is uniform. This makes the mini look clean and finished no matter how sloppy the paint job otherwise might be.

    and you are done!

     

     

    • Like 5
  9. I have learned to look at contrast paints as another tool in the box, and that need some practice to find out what it is best at.

    One thing is the paint the entire model in 10 minutes slop'n'go that they advertise it for, another thing is that Citadel contrast paints are actually rather good for glazing, tinting and such techniques. They can give wonderful results when applied over zenithal-style under- or basecoats.

    The big drawback is that they are not hard-wearing and rub off easily. I would not advise to drybrush over contrast paints.

     

    • Like 8
  10. 2 hours ago, Poilu_1914 said:

    Excellent paint job! Am I correct in thinking I'm seeing you picked out the veins in the arm and ears? (He said, knowing he is badly in need of new glasses...)

    Well spotted, sir! Some veins here and there are painted with blue grey.

    • Like 2
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