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Morgramen

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Posts posted by Morgramen

  1. Something that might be too obvious and thus easily overlooked in the "kick in the crotch" look, is to be sure that the top/bottom of the iris does not show any white around the edge.  A small dab of dark paint in the middle of the white will tend to give you the fried egg look.

     

    The part that always kills me is that on any given model, there always seems to be one eye that suffers from a mold flaw.  No matter what you do, one eye turns out well, the other looks like it was squished by an hefalump, or stretched by a fast talking woozle.

  2. Arrgh, it seems they're last in line for any new Reaper releases... :(

    I dunno... the shop I buy at (mail order) is still waiting to fill my order (begun in early January).  Waiting for their distributor to come up with a Spider Centaur, Lord Ironraven, and an Inquisitor of Malvernis... still.

     

    Tick tock!

  3. What about Reaper's Skoli figs?  With a proper paint job and some slight conversion, they would pass for Githyanki IMO.  If you want more of a "skinny" feel, why not try converting some from some slim undead wraiths or mummies.  Chop a Skoli head or two, replace onto mummy/spectre/wraith body, do some weapon swapping, etc.
  4. Is it just me, or does the Digital Camera not need so much light?  It seems that all the Show Offs I've seen that were done digitally, (Stern's come to mind), came out nice, and with minimum fuss.

     

    Now, I'm not the swiftess ent in the forest (perhaps the problem), but I've been having a heck of a time trying to find a system that works well for the film camera.  Each attempt is better than the last, but the fuss also seems to be getting up there.  I wanna point and click!

  5. I used Armory Matte Sealer for years, but as with primer, the local shop only sells the smelly GW stuff, and for some reason, the law of hte land does not permit pressurized gases to be sent through the mail.

     

    Also, I've been told in the past that matte does not protect as well as gloss does, but if you spray a light coat of gloss, you can then spray the mini again with a matte sealer to "hide" the shine.  I've never actually tried this, since the matte seems to be protecting well enough (I don't use my mini's like G.I. Joes or Pokemon action figures mind you...)

     

    GW matte tends to come out slightly shiny IMO.  And besides which, it stinks something terrible...

  6. !enif tsuj leef I ndA

    AHHH!!! OUI!  Lead

     

    hoir iorn hurbalan!  My uncle wears an umbrella for a hat, and puts shoes on his ears.

     

    I work in the Hazardous Waste Recycling/Recovering industry, (mostly with oils, fuels, caustic and other waste water streams.)  From the MSDS's on these materials, effects are typicaly  to kidney and liver, but that's with over 8 hour exposure at concentrations well above the normal "OOps! Got some splashes on me..." levels.   Been at this for 4 years now, and my toxin levels are still normal.  (I was mainly worried about the heavy metals in my system, but instead I find my cholesterol is high!!! Good bye chesseburgers!)  

     

    Still not the best stuff for you to be bathing in, but a drop of CA here and a zap of it htere is nothing that I'd be loosing sleep over.  Ya likely have more exposure to radiation off your television screen and cell phone.

  7. I'll buy it. Prime it... and stare at it for 5.8 months, before slapping some paint on... and then wishing I'd wait some more. :D

     

    Hheheheheehee... yeah, if you start counting from the time I bought the mini, unto the time it was primed (usually the same day) to the time it actually gets paint on it (anywhere from same day - years later), to the time it gets sealed (perhaps never!), I'd be doomed.  I've got minis struggling to be finished (with a single colour of paint on them, a shirt perhaps or a skin tone) that have been waiting in the wings for 15 years or more.

     

    I've got so many minis staring back at me from my shelf... and still I buy more.  

     

    On average though, a standard "Morg Painting of a hero" takes between 4 - 8 hours depending on how much detail I put into the thing.  I haven't yet managed to develop blending and proper highlihgting skills yet, so I expect the time to increase over the next while as I experiment with those techniques.

  8. DA!  Inlcude pictures would be nice....

     

    dwarf3.jpg

     

    fatty.jpg

     

    fight2.jpg

     

    ogre.jpg

     

    Not sure what happened to the fighter guy....  It looked fine in Paintshop.  Must have had an bug while saving.

     

    The ogre pic looks out of focus to my eyes, and his "layers of flesh are lost in the picture.  (He looks sort of "washed out").  this was actually the first mini that I tried to use blending on.  It turned out only slightly better than my usual drybrush and highlight technique, but took MUCH MUCH longer.

     

    All the deep areas are lost in darkness.  THe same with the dwarf cleric again, and just like last time, his arms are shiny.  (I hate shiny....)

     

    I forgot to mention that the only touch ups I did was a single "sharpen" filter.  I'm trying to get the hang of good photography[/i] habits before getting into image editing to try and fix the goofs.

  9. Ok, photoshoot attempt #2.  

     

    This time around, I added 2 lamps, one to either side of the mini and behind the camera.  THe one on the right  of the camera was a standard GE 60W soft white bulb lamp with a shade.  The other one on the left was a small halogen lamp with one of those flexible shaft dealies.  I also had the curtains open on the window directly behind the camera, and it was a bright shin day.

     

    I used only large apetures this time.  IIRC, I managed to get it up to 27 or somehting.  Still not perfect by any stretch of the word, but better over all than attempt #1 I think.

     

    SOmething odd did  happen this time that never happened last time though.  THe shutter speed was very slow.  It took about 15 seconds for the shutter to open & then close, and a few of the pics actually came out shaky (from handling I suspect).  The shutter release gizmo I bought didn't fit on the camera, so I have to try and find a new one.

     

    ANyway, with such a slow shutter open/close sequence, some parts of the mini are still too dark for my taste.  (Recall that I am something of a perfectionist, and expect my pics to be White Dwarf quality by my third attempt.)  Increase the shutter speed  (so it closes slower/stays open longer,) meaning more light gets in, which means minis are illuminated better, but also means I risk over exposing the "bright parts" right???

     

    This is certainly getting to seem rather ... delicately complex.

  10. It seems that taste in names is highly dependant upon the individual, so short of sending huge lists of names, I think the Reaps are safe with just about anything.

     

    I'd like to see a "staff" line of look alikes though, that'd be cool.

     

    Above anything though, the name must be descriptive of the nature of the figure.  A noble woman should have a fancy, "upper class" sounding name (ala: Beatrice, Fhyillandria, Gwendolyn, etc.) and a lowly dirt scraping goblin with bad breath might be named Rotmouth.

     

    A good name tells (or at least hints) at the true nature of the character IMO.

     

    Of course, Princess Buttercup and the Dread Pirate Roberts are always staple standbys.  :;):

  11. Wouhou! First post ever!

    Welcome!

     

    I started painting with Testor enamels, toothpicks, and *no* primeer coat!  I think that was a staple of the early days.  "You want me to spend money on whaat???!!!"  I'd much rather buy an $8.00 Bone Hill module or a buck & a half on a citadel/RP model than spend a couple quarters on a pot of paint and  brushes.  Besides, I can still remember admiring my green coated, purple panted ranger guy....

     

    *sigh*

     

    I though I was so cool then.  

     

    Anyway, to your question: Isn't that Extender stuff supposed to increase the life expetancy of exposed paint?  I haven't run across any of this yet to give it a whirl, but I recall hearing about it the same time as the magic mix formula came to light.

  12. They could have easily been moulded as a complete fig (they are small & "flat" enough that packaging wouldn't have been a concern.)  For some reason though, they split the figure into two halfs, down the length of the mini.

     

    Easy enough to assemble, but a bit of an irritation to be sure.

  13. +5 Brownie points to anyone who knows the origins of the above phrases.

     

    -Daniel

    Army of Darkness??!!

     

    :::COUGH:::

     

    ::HACK:::

     

    The Charm of Making is a good one fer sure, as is the Mordor speech that Gandalf utters when he relates the runes on the Ring of Power.

     

    Wizard lingo is fairly easy to come up with without much fuss I find, it's the priestly ones that kill me.  Muttering a bunch of latin or something is entirley different than trying to come up with a prayer of power.

  14. I'm a fane of the "almost real name" game. Things like Jonas Kane - wickedly cool, actual name but fanasty-like in it';s sound.

     

    So far, Reaps have done excellent work in assigning names IMO.  I'm a bit bored with the dwarven Beerguzzlers, Hornhammers, and Rocklegs myself.  Same with the often oddball "funny names" that tend to go with hobbits.  It would be nice to see names for these coming from something other than the very obvious LotR/D&D influences.

     

    I'm partial of late to plays on actual welsh & celtic names.  My most recent hybrid is named Caemerlyn Sontaigne.

     

    Caemerlyn was derived from the actual name Cameron, with a few vowels mixed about, and added the spelling of Merlin in there just for fun.  His last name, Sontaigne, came from the movie 13th Warrior.  I'm not really sure if it is accurate or not, but when the Herald comes to meet the warriors at the shore, and then introduces them to the aged king, it sounded like he said "This is Bulvie, Son of the High Thane Jiliak", which I thought sounded like Sontaigne High Jiliak.

     

    So, there ya go.   :)

     

    I'm big on names actually. A name should reflect the character in question.  (As Jonas Kane does.) Names are important, and taken too lightly by many players that I have met.

  15. I bought almost all of the CM figures.  I really liked the dwarves they were making, and the gnolls were beautiful  (but then again, most of those sculpts were done by certain masked men who, of late, now work for Reaper.)  I bought into the game too.  I really wanted to like it.  I needed a D&D mass combat to offset the GW system.  It tanked, and I'm back to Warhammer.

     

    I'm now tossing my eggs in the Reaper basket.  With GW continuing on its way, and WotC being buried under Coporate dollar deadlines, I wouldn't be surprised if the market suddenly finds itself susceptable for competitive little guys who actually play the game.

     

    I'm gonna wager that Reaper will need to double their staff in the next year or two.

  16. :::Shakes head in dismay:::

     

     

    WHEN!!!!  When will they learn???  When this game cans, then they'll be looking around wondeirng what the heck happened and pretending to be surprised.

     

    ANyone want to bet me a painted Jonas Kane that Mat Smith will get all gooshy-skwishy over how cool the game really is.  He'll tip the scale with his adulation on how neato-cool the prepainted minis are too I bet.

     

    Sigh.

     

    Go go WotC...

  17. Hmm.. ok.  Extender keeps the paint wet longer, and Floor Wax breaks the surface tension, which keeps the mix flowing into the low spots?  (Currently, it's a hit and miss with washes - most times the pigment tends to run off the mini, leaving the colour in random spots -both high and low).

     

    The 'block in' analogy is helpful.  I thought shading was progressive with each region you paitned.  Will try this technique next time.  Also, I used my base coat as the intended colou, then darkened with a wash.  Picking a base coat that is midrange might help substantially.

     

    So do I understand correctly that dry brushing isn't even on the list of steps?  I've never noticed before, but after looking over some various "paid paint services", that most don't even dry bursh at all.

  18. OK, I know this has been covered a hundred times, but after the last 4 attempts at shading, I still haven't managed anything more than spending hours and hours effectively painting water, only to end up with the usual drybrush layers.

     

    Is there some simple teechnique that I am totally overlooking?  (I'm starting to think I'll have to use that Paint Extender to start off with.)

     

    I paint the base coat, then give it a wash with a darker shade.  Then I race in, paint on a light shade on the high spots, and try to blend this lighter colour into the darker before it dries.

     

    So far, it hasn't worked very well.  I have managed a respectable shade effect from a flesh to a dark brown on the latest ranger-type figure though.  I originally intended to shade the flesh, but it came out looking like he hasn't shaved in a month.  (That's actually ok, since now he sort of has that Aragorn 5 day growth thing on the go.)  

     

    Do you use lots of water on the highlight colour, or is it more "dry"?  I can't get this to work no how, and the multiple dry brush look is getting a bit.... old.  (Mostly I'm tired of the "dirty" look it tends to give.  I want clean and crisp minis, not dark and splotchy.

     

    Help!

  19. Regarding skinny halflings:

     

    I recall waaaaaay back in the basic Dungeons & Dragons book (the ones with the Earl Otus covers), the halflings were slim and muscle bound, but did NOT wear shoes.

     

    I think it was in the "Advanced" book (the blue cover) that had a picture of a pretty fighter kneeling down to talk to a halfling warrior.  His hand was on his sword, and his other was on the hip.  The look on his face was sort of a growly attitude-rich "R YOU TALKIN" TO ME???!!! I see your lips movin', but I don't think you're talkin' to me!!!"

     

    I'm not really sure when D&D Halflings turned into Hobbits, but it stuck for a long time.  Kender were sort of a combo Halfling-hobbit IMO.

     

    Face it, who wants to play a fat baldling cleric.... wait a minuite... my last character was just that!!  Oh, never mind....  :;):

  20. I've been thinking of grabbing a pin vice, but haven't yet.  I just don't see how they are suppused to work.  You hold it in hand, and then what?  Spin it round while applying pressure?  How long and hard is it to drill?  I've used my power drill in the past, and while a bit cumbersome and tricky (the drill bit loves to "slide" off the mini) I haven't drilled my finger (yet.)
  21. I have yet to see a gnome model that I like (from any company.)  They always look like goofy hobbits.  (I assume that's thanks to the Dragonlance archtype.)

     

    Halfling models are hit and miss, and very few have truly impressed me with that "I must have this model NOW!" feeling.

     

    Reaper is doing an exceptional job with their dwarves though.  I seldom play dwarves personally, but that obsessive compulsive need to add them to my collection has struck with nearly every dwarf mini Reaper has cast of late.  Their elves are also getting much more to my likeing, and I expect I'll be adding more of those frootie-licious goodie-goodies to my collection sooner rather than later.

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