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Morgramen

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Posts posted by Morgramen

  1. Will the DHA battle game be reworked for the new RPG release??  IIRC, the original version of the game is OOP?  I know I have never seen it on any shelf.... (most specifically, *Mine*)   :O
  2. I'm wondering what sort of glue everyone uses to assemble their minis?  Until recently, I've been using a brand called PM Hansen.  It bonds skin instantly, and comes in it's own plastic tube (secondary containment??)  

     

    Anyway, I used this for many years to good effect, but when my first bottle finally bit the bullet, I bought a new one.  Same brand.  I used it a half dozen times perhaps before it turned into jello.  I assumed that perhaps I didn't seal it properly, and ran out to buy a new one.  By this time, the price had nearly tripled (now up to $8.75!), and used it ONCE.  It turned to jello sometime over the last few weeks.  (I tried to glue the arms onto my ogre last night.)

     

    GROWL!

     

    SO then I thought I'd try a $2.00 phial of Crazy Glue.  It wouldn't bond very well at all.  One arm seemed to stick fairly quickly, but the other sort of just got "tacky".  I may have put too much on however, but if anyone has tried Carzy Glue, do you have any tips?  The last thing I want is to have the mini shatter into pieces when I put it in play, and I can no longer afford to waste 9 bucks to glue one figure together.

  3. I hope Reaper does both.  I like the more pot bellied happy go lucky beer drinking types, but the new, slimmer, and badder mini-men are also neat.  A chubby halfling will slim down and tone up after all after a time on adventure.

     

    Halfling militia - chubby hams with sticks and bows.

    Halfling knight - slim and mean fighting machine.

  4. Ok, well I'm out of the loop on this.  Where is all this info coming from?  I have only a single coppy of Casket Works (sent to me following a mail order a few years back), but that's it.  Is there a source of information out there that is available???  How about a map or two?
  5. You're making it very difficult to "Aww shucks" because I just did that. But thanks! I'm just a Design Chickie trying to help where I can...  :D

     

    ReaperIvy

    Do not "Aww Shucks."  I doubt you get paid to monitor the postings, which means that most of the time is your own.  Even though it's a hobby to most of us here, it's your job.  I know I wouldn't be monitoring the hazardous waste streams entering the plant after my 12 hours shift in the sludge mine is done!

     

    I've been here since almost the onset, and you have nearly caught my number of positngs already.  I'd say you're going above and beyond the call of duty!

     

    That deserves a great big "YOU ROCK!" in my not so humble opinion.

  6. Happy New Year everyone!  Hope it was joyful for all.  I scanned my first round of photographs this morning, and blasted up a web page with some commentary.  The over all aim of the project wasn't so much to display the minis, but to get a feel for the camera and to find out first hand what works and what doesn't.  

     

    Warning: The photos aren't very good!

     

    Take a look and let me know what you think.

     

    The X-periment Begins

  7. I have used a mixture of Reaper, GW, and antique Heritage models for my Mordheim warbands.

    Yuppers.  I bought up all the Sisters of Battle for a Battle Nun warband.  (They're perfect matches and oh so very less cheesy than the EE versions!).  Once Reaper belches out some more puritan styled witch hunters with cool hats (Jonas Kane and the new Warlord Templar are good starts!), there's my witch hunter war band.

     

    As for the constant pump out new game, cancel new game, re-release a few years later schtick, that seems to be becoming the industry norm (WotC seems to like doing it lately), so the sting is lessened a bit.

  8. YES! That's the one!  Thanks Lady Storm!

     

    Gotta do some calculatin' and some totalin' ... I got a cool C-ote worth of NSLBOSFLGS  (Not So Local But Oh So FLGS) mail order dollars.  I tossed over a couple of the bigger kits, or catching up on my Reaper blisters enmasse.

     

    Figure I'll get a Monique for sure, a Jonas Kane, An Oswald, some Malvernis Inquisitors, a Stern and Prince Denthor of my very own, and a Boris Mingla for sure.  Oh, and of course, a Spider Centaur!  :)  Not to mention the Warlord line!!

     

    I'll have to add up how much is left, but I find myself going back to drool over the Abysst all the time.  (I could convert him easily into The Gorgon - a nasty beastie specific to the Birthright Campaign Setting).

  9. I found a nifty "pull-out" card from teh Extended Edition DVD of LotR that I'm gonna try out.  It's thick cradboard, showing the gorge "behind" the Argonath.  I figure I'll add a slab of cardboard on the back so it will stand up, and then the neutral grey-blue of it ought to work well.

     

    I got my pictures back today of my first photo shoot, and while I am disappointed in the results, the experiment did teach me a few things (lighting and "mini-colour" for one  My "brighter" minis exposed better than the "darker" minis).  I'll scan them in and post them later this week.

  10. You can also instantly tell as soon as you take the picture if it's blurred, underexposed, overexposed, or whatever so you can take it again until it looks the way you want it.

    When I was rolling off my first roll of film the other day, I expected the view through the camera to "adjust & reflect" what the settings on the camera were.  Thus, when I was adjusting/foolin' with the apeture settings and such, I sort of expected the depth of field to change in the veiw finder as well as on the film.

     

    This didn't happen though (foreground & background remained out of focus.)  I haven't got the film back yet, so I don't know how they came out or not.

     

    Basically, is it always by guess and by golly (like driving a submarine!!) or did I do something wrong?

  11. Remember awhile back, there was this coolio green (or was it a preview of a "new release coming soon!"??) that wasn't labeled, and we all thought it was a halfling.  Then we discovered that it wasn't a halfling...

     

    Well, I thought I saw it in the catalouge, but now I can't find it anywhere.  Did it get recalled, never released, or am I looking right at the freekin' thing?

  12. Well, knowing absoutely nothing about photography, and if you have the money at hand, I'd say go digital.  I got those close up filters, and quickly zapped off a roll of film.  Now the waiting to see if "my experiment" worked or not, is killing me!
  13. Hello everyone.  I've noticed that several folks seem to have the desire to post their minis in a gallery, but generally lack either the skill or the where with all to make a web page for the purpose.

     

    I would like to offer my webspace for this purpose if any of you are interested.  I've got something like 50Megs of space, and my entire site doesn't even take up 1/4 of that, so I've got plenty of room.  I also found a nifty php script/photo album that permits for user comments and such, so you can even get feeedback from the veiwers.

     

    What I would prefer though, is rather than just sending me a scan of the picture, I would like to also receive a bit of info on the style and techniques you used to paint/convert etc. the mini.

     

    If this is of interest to anyone, just let me know.  (Will have to come up with a cool "Reaper" name for the gallery too...)

  14. Before I actually became interested in trying to "improve" my style, and esentially "lighten/brighten" my figures up so that I could see the details on the table top, I used to use black primer exclusively.

     

    I found that it really cut down the time on painting a mini (particulalry orcs and other baddies).  Simply drybrush on base coat, and a few quiick highlights, and you've got a modest figure painted, ready for play.  (The black primer acts as a natural shading coat.)

     

    The trouble I ran into was that the colours also "dimmed".  They looked great when on the end of your nose, but under normal light and on the table (3'+ aay from nose), they lost all the detail.

     

    As for the "lighter" colours covering the black primer coat, I think it depends on your brand of paint.  I know that oranges and reds really vary from brand to brand, and that in my experience, I've had to paint a base coat of white or gray over the areas that I wanted to be very "bright" orange, red, white etc.

     

    So I have now converted back to white primer, and save the black for terrain pieces, monsters, and army groups with lots of armour.  (Just dry brush chainmail silver ontop, and 95% of the figure is painted.)

     

    I've heard of people who use both, and spray balck, and once dry, give a light dusting of white.  This is suppose to really bring out the detail, and also adds to the over all shading effect, though I have nver tried this.  

     

    I have just primed a bunch of plastic GW Moria Goblins with the Green Primer (first time for that), so I'm interested to ee what the results will be.

     

    In the end however, I think it all boils down to your preference and yoru style of painting.

  15. I also draw out the entire continent before I actually start detailing anything.  I find that having the picture to look at while I'm writing is a big help.  Also, as I draw, ideas spring up, and reasons for this to be here and that to be there is all because of this little rift right here....
  16. You could probabbly use either techniques for these.

     

    Wrap a wire armature with paper mache and paint.  This would likely result in a "lumpy" texture, that should resemble rockface pretty well after it's been painted.  This would also likely be the more durable of the two.

     

    You could simply carve them from the pink/blue insulation and paint.  This would be easiest and fastest (especially if you have one of those wire wonder cutters), but it would also be fragile, particularly at the points where the styrofoam is thin.

     

    For the "hangers" (not sure if it's the "stala" or the "stagma"), you might be able to mimic a "roof" by using a wire to support it, and have your rocky thing hanging from it (either directly supported by the wire like those clear plastic bases on flying creatures), or you could bend the wire support into a "C" shape, allowing you to actually put mini's directly under the rock.  With the "C" shaped one, you could also try to disguise the wire a bit, but building a rubble pile, or even a partial rocky wall formation around the support wire, so that you only actually see the top 1/4 or something of the support.

     

    Hmm.... I might have to try this myself.

  17. The only complaint I have about Reaper, is that they don't have any Puritan styled witch hunters with cool hats.... yet.   :p

     

    I understand the problem though, but as most seem to say, it's the scale more than anything else.  I love miniatures, so I buy them like they're going out of style.  Now, while I prefer the newer "heroic scale" (bigger minis), it also pretty much makes my older "true scale" minis obsolete.  They look horrible standing side by side, but individually, they're still mucho cool minis.  Now, the problem is with the Warlord and DH lines.  Both are awesomely excellent scuplts, and I was hoping they'd be closer in scale than what I have heard (I haven't actually seen a Warlord mini in the flesh yet).  I'll still buy them though, have no doubt about that, but it would be soooo nice from a gamers POV if the mini hobby would come to some sort of agreement on a 'stnadard scale' and stick to it.  (Like the GW choice to make the LotR figs true 25mm despite GWs standard of 28mm - in essence, rendering them useless to me once more, since I started converting my collection to the larger 28 mm line.)

     

    So my gripe then, is not with any one company, but with all of them combined.  If 32mm is the wave of the future, then all's good, but in10 years, when I have 1k+ dollars invested, I fear the standard will revert back to a smaller 25 mm range.

     

    In short, make up my mind!    :D

  18. Now then... shape the foil into a rough triangular shape with one end not pointy (actually, none of the ends have to be pointy, just a general triangular shape). Tape the foil to your lens shiney side towards the light, so that it goes up over your light. Point the light straight up and then angle the foil towards the front at about a 45 degree angle. This gives you a reflected light as opposed to direct light from your flash which can cause harsh shadows and a darkening of your background.

    OK, I've got the Hoya close up filters (YEA!!!) a tripod, and a shutter release.  Happy day!   :p

     

    I'm not clear though, on what you mean here.  The foil gets taped ontop of the lens of the camera, angled towards the ceiling (obviously, otherwise it'd cover the lens), and the light source is behind you, or do you mean that the foil is to reflect the flash (which should be positioned straight into the air?)

  19. I'm just curious what the primary game system is that we all play.

     

    D&D, Warhammer, GURPS?? Which is your fave?

     

    I dabble in Warhammer and Mordheim (love the mini & terrain end of it, but don't actually play that often), and play D&D mainly, though our group has been using a home made rule system that is sort of "the best of both" (Warhammer & D&D).

     

    Campaign wise, we also use our own homebrew world, though I personally am a big fan of the Birthright Campaign setting (the rest of the group isn't so obsessed with it as I am.)  The other 2 love all things Forgotten Realms (icck IMO!) while the final guy wants nothing other than the Homebrew world.  I plan on using Adon as well once information starts coming out on it - from what I've heard so far, it sounds like my kind of playground.  I have also been toying with the idea of checking out the Ars Magica system, but have yet to actually buy into it at all.

  20. We have a player who is "Heavy HAnded" actually.  He's the kind whose fine motor skills are... lacking.  His fingers are like big sausages, so we have dubbed him "Hammy the Finger."

     

    Everytime he picks up a miniature to hold it at the end of his nose, it CLOMPS! to the table several feet below, or goes rocketing across the floor.

     

    We even made a House Rule in his honour.

     

    The Hammy Finger Rule: (In your best Dexter imitation) Please don't play with the lead miniatures!

  21. Are there any links to these pinch-faced, knock-kneed nekked mini's so we mortals can also compare?

     

    - purely in the interests of research, you understand.

    HAHAHA!  

     

    And even another great big HA!  

     

    That was pure comedy Smokin'!   :laugh:

     

    I never noticed Mize before, but upon seeing the pic Polo posted, I recognize him from Ral Partha's hay-day.  

     

    I keep thinking "contortionist" now, but I remember when I thought his (meaning Ral PArtha as oppossed to the individual) were the Cat's Ear lobe.

     

    Now, it's the likes of Klocke, Guthrie, Wiens and Garitty that got the machessmo goin' on!  Man, does Reaper ever have a horde of talent in their closet!

     

    KEEP THE SCULPTORS HAPPY REAPER SUITS!  

    :)

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