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Posts posted by Morgramen

  1. I recently got my copy of Warlord (finally!) and am about half way through the rules. The issue I have though, is half of my minis are on round bases! GAAK! So in order to make these "playable", I will have to remount them somehow, or else come up with some house rule to get around the B2B thingy?? Dang! I do like those round bases though!


    On the other hand, from what I have read so far, the Warlord rules quick much butt, so perhaps I can get used to square bases again. ^_^


    I am interested to see how the Super-size base (the CD variety) work for B2B. ROund is round after all, so perhaps I can finagle some angle for the smaller variety. (Haven't got that far in the rules yet though!) :blush:

  2. This is a pretty basic question I guess, and I never really thought of it before. Typically, I assemble my mini, fill in gaps, then prime and paint. However, as the mini poses become more "fluid" or "action-packed", the hard to reach areas of an assembled model become harder to... reach. ^_^


    In the "old school", my general opinion was that if you couldn't get a brush into an area, then the odds were good that you would never "see" that area once the figure was in play, so no biggie.


    I suppose if you use brush on primer (I use the spray on variety myself, being a bear of very little patience for that kind of thing), it might not be such an issue (since you can simply paint the primer on the green stuff). But do most folks here paint each component, then assemble the model, or build the entire thing, then paint?

  3. Sorry if I wasn't clear RB. I grabbed Kit's tile without difficulty, but I've spent the last 13 + something hours trying to figure out how to make the white space on that tile transparent, so that when I apply the fill layer, the map shows through and I have a nice, sharp, crips hexagonal overlay. (I'm trying to go for the old " 1E Greyhawk World" look.)


    I managed to get the white space transparent (though the hex lines end up coming out quick "pixalated/un-crisp" when I try to darken them), but everytime I try to insert it as a pattern fill layer, the white space is opaque, and my map gets covered over - all I'm left with is an equal sized white image full of hexagons!










    Help please. :blush:

  4. Thanks for getting the boards up lightning quick Kit! You certainly don't seem to take any time (or very much at any rate...) off! It's in the middle of the evening, and you race to the net to take a monkey wrench to the database! Haven't seen too many webmasters with that level of dedication! I appreciate it though, and shall now perform the "Give Kit a raise Mr. Pugh!" chant.



  5. OOO! Could I have a copy of that file? ::D: That could come in uber handy for dungeon mapping! That is essentially what I am trying to do with the hex field as well. Trying to make the white background transparent, and then do the pattern trick like what Kit mentions (I scaled my pattern by 50% for the "World Map").


    Is there an easy way to make the white area transparent though? I"m having a heck of a time trying to figure this out! (Should have read the manual I guess....) :poke:

  6. I'm wondering if anyone has any idea how to create a hexagonal overlay for Photoshop? I have my homebrew map scanned in and all digital-ized, but would like to overlay a transpearancy of a hex field over the entire thing (preferably one with numbered hexes, and one unumbered) as a layer.


    I thought about trying to import the map into CC2, add the hexes, then try to send it back to PS, but the use of that program still frightens me after more than 5 years. Anyone have any idea how I might do this? :huh:

  7. HE reminds me of one of those people who have those uber-ultra-mega crysatline looking blue eyes. Very cool. A nice model too! I've not seen this one before. How much do these cost to cross the pond btw Stern? I've been oogling that flying Pirate ship for some time now...


    I also wanted to grab some Heresy Minis, but the Pound does just that to the Canadian conversion. :blink:

  8. Hey thanks gang. You guys continue to inspire me...


    I agree about the cloak. I was afraid to take it any higher though out of fear that I might mess it up... :unsure:


    Kel, you still need to post those models bro! Our styles are different enough that it might be kinda cool to contrast and compare.


    Morg- Good to see you lurking about dude.



    Yup.. still schnooping about. I've been slow on the painting scene this season (still biuying lots of minis, just not painting many) so not lots to say really. I mean to get a ring by the snow is gone and the grass is green though! I would also toss in my echo of "Yes Please" on the face shot angle.

  9. I used some of this type for my SPider Centaur conversion. I found that if you use a hot wire foam cutter (ware the fumes though!! Very nasty stink!) you can get a fairly straight edge on it. I used it for cliff faces, and found it much easier to "scuplt/cut" the texture on than the pink stuff.


    I rubbed my fingers over it to crumble the balls into a cliff-like surface, then used the hot wire cutter to "zig-zag" (first horizontally, then vertically) all along the edges. The result was a fairly decent looking cliff face IMO. The pink stuff came out looking more like the jagged "GW-Style" cliff. (A little more comic bookish to my eye). For a nice smooth surface though, pink foam is the best, no doubt about it.

  10. For general "mood and feel" the architecture of Moorish Andalusian Spain was used as the primary inspiration for the native Taltain and their villages.

    Would anyone happen ot have some linkage to pics of this sort of architecture? I'm trying to form a picture in my weebrain, but nothing comes up other than scenes from "Gladiator".

  11. UBER COOL! How big is that bad boy? 4x8? 4x6? IT looks huge! I'm building a Mordheim table (for use with Warlord though!... A Taltos table.... yea.... that's the ticket) and am trying to decide between modular or engraved features. (both have their own perks). AN awesome job done on this board! Be sure to take some action shots please if it does go to Reaper Central.

  12. Reaper has good cheese, no doubt about it. On the other hand though, this is also one of the (small) perks of living in the wilderlands of north-central Alberta. There are few cons east of Toronto, and even fewer hobby shops. Aside from the almost local GW store and their events (which seem to spout the the word at least once every five minuites), the closest thing we see of "officialness" is the Proochase Points and bar codes on the blister. Officialness has never been a concern. It's sort of like knowing you can cross the street without your Mom finding out. ::P:

  13. Ok, I know you wanted to see his behind (You cheekie Monkey!)


    The reason I did this in the first place, was simply because the Ral PArtha mini was the old 25mm variety, and just didn't have the imposing size and nastiness that the Goblin King of the Spiderfell Forest (ala TSR Birthright Campaign) deserved. Once he is added onto the Reaperness, he is much more to behold, and easily twice the size. I also started a display scenery/diorama for this model ( A cave mouth opening/nest with goblin and other servitor slave type humanoids dwell). I'll post pics once those are done as well. (The scene is little more than styrofoam chunks at the moment.)


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