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Morgramen

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Posts posted by Morgramen

  1. The biggest thing I really want to know is if the Warlord game will b "compatible" with the d20 book.  I know Warlord is using the "Damage Track system" (which I'm not familiar with), so will be different than typical d20 mechanics, but will I be able to take my 9th level ranger lord and stat him out to be a Warlord Warband leader?  

     

    In other words, will there be a super neato conversion stat chart?

  2. Yea, fitting the figs into the slots is rarely so easy.  Every figure I've had using slotted bases (GW, some of the "newer" Ral PArthas, etc) always need trimming/filling.

     

    I've only ever gotten the textured Warlord bases so far (the one with the snake on it), and I found that the models I had needed to have their tabs "trimmed back" to fit the slot.  (The tab on the figure was longer than the slot itself.)

     

    As Kelcore said, not a big deal in my opinion.  PArt of the package deal of using a generic base with custom minis.

     

    I would be interested in seeing the unsculpted bases though, to get a comparison for the relative "height/thickness" of the base.  (The one with the snake on it adds a couple of mm to the height of the figure I found, throwing it out of "scale" with the DHA and my other minis.)

     

    As for sculpted vs. plain bases, I like alot of the Warlord "specialty" bases (Lola's cross base comes immediately to mind), but as far as a 'generic base' is concerned, I flock and add rocks etc anyway, so a presculpted base is not so important to me.

  3. Warlord promises to be a great gaming alternative. When the role-playing sourcebook comes out, we'll finally have the "one-two" punch that D&D/Chainmail should have been.

     

    ...With much better figures to play with :laugh:  :laugh:

    HERE HERE!

     

    What Steve said.  :;):

  4. Personally, I think the Warlord bases are too "thick".  I've been basing mine on the standard "GW" sized base, and by doing so, the Warlord figs don't "tower over" my DHA and other figs so much.  (I'll worry about base size issues when the rules come out I guess.)   :p
  5. Whaaaa????!!  The pop-ups usually keep me away from CMON, but I have heard they are rather... critical over there.  I can't believe they were scoring her work so low!

     

    Man, if Vicotria is getting 7's, I'd be risking a mob if I posted there....

     

    9.7 on the Rescue of Sister Joan???!!! Come on now.... if that ain't a 10, then I don't know what is!

  6. Just Morg please Vaitalla, Morgramen sounds so.... formal.  I am definetly not formal.  Or Terry,  or Keith, or Hey You! even suffices if you're in a pinch.   :;):

     

    I think blending and layering are the same thing?  I'm not really sure to tell you the truth.  I've been using them interchangably, but I could be wrong.  When I think of layering, I think of applying many many coats of thin "layers" to eventually arrive at the "brightest" colour (the highlight).  When I think of blending though, I always end up trying to mix the two shades of red together along their "seam" while both are still wet to achieve the "blend" transition.

     

    Same result but differnet techniques perhaps?  Trying to explain how to do something physical with written word is proving difficult at best.  It's sort of like trying to explain HOW to swallow.  

     

    AS for Vicotria Lamb, do you (or any one else) have any links to her work?  THis is the first I've seen, and I am astounded.  I thought that the snakeyes url was her site, but now it seems like they are just hosting a few of her pics.  More would be better.

  7. 1.- Yes. It all depends on the area you have available. Note that the bigger the area, the more layers you'll need to get a smooth effect. Wich lead to the next point...

     

    2.- On a face, you don't really need to have a set number of layers to get a nice effect. We both work the same way, so, picture this:

    a) I apply a basecoat of dwarf flesh (maybe sometimes with a bit of chestnut ink mixed in). The next layer (pure dwarf flesh) covers almost all the face, leaving only the area below the nose and the eyesockets dark, along with the edge of the face.

    b) then, I highlight the cheekbones, the brow, the bridge of the nose  and the jaw and chin with elf flesh.

    c) Now, the next highlights are applyed on those very same areas, with thinned paint (mix some white to the elf flesh), trying not to cover all of the previous layer.

    d) For the last highlight, I use either almost white paint thinned applyed only to cheekbones, tip of the nose and maybe the chin.

    So, for layering, you paint a base coat (darker than your "original colour"), then "selectively" paint on each additional layer?

     

    See, what I've been doing is trying to add each layer (working from bottom to top) by determining where the "shade transition" should take place, then paint it there.  Then, I use water to thin the paint on either edge of this "stripe" and try to smooth it out so that it fades into the colour beneath.

     

    By the sounds of it, you only paint the base coat in a "swash", and all the highlights are placed "selectively".  

     

    Gads! I"m not making any sense....

  8. Well, unfortunatley I can't offer you too much advice on layering, since I'm still trying to grab that technique myself.  However, I would suggest that you not worry about getting it right the first time (or the 80th time).

     

    Paint cause you want to, and how you want to.

     

    In my own case, I've been stuck in the base coat - wash - drybrush - paint on highlight mode for over 10 years.  I started using toothpicks for brushes, no primer, and Testor Oil Paint (for plastic models).  I remeber the feeling the first time I tried actual brushes and Ral Partha paints.  The entire techniques were so different, that I just made a mess the first dozen times.  When I finally got a feel for the paint though, then it was like an epiphany.  I expect the same result with the "advanced" techniques I am trying to devlop now.

     

    In the meantime, I will continue to paint the way I always have, and slowly develop these new skills as I go.  I think this is the only way to develop actually, since if you just sit down and decide to paint like Anne, you'll likely be very disappointed.  (Unless of course you're a mini-painting Mozart.)

     

    Take it slow an easy.  Develop as you go.  Try a little bit new on each model.  Eventually you'll get it right.

  9. Okie dokilie then!  See, and I thought it just looked sort cool.  (Slightly under estimated the value of the style.)  I'll be posting a scan of my attempt later tonight (gotta let it dry first, and my photo skills still bite Sophie's toenails...).  

     

    After trying it, I thought, "Man, this takes forever!  Effect is not worth the time."  Now however, I may have to take another look.  Since the NMM also seems to make use of blending, my results were somewhat lacking.  Still however, by using both techniques for a single purpose, I figure I ought to be able to improve both skills at once.

     

    BTW, tak a look at this:

    http://www.snakeeyes.nu/modules....bum.php

     

    Talk about shading, blending, and NMM using light sources!  WOWZA PICASO!

  10. Whizard, Yes, I meant abutting two metallics.  I had never thought of highlighting a metallic with other metallics though... that's so crazy, it just might work.  :p

     

    I've always washed my metallics with a layer of black, then highlight with original colour again.  Not bad, but it tends to look... dirty.  (if  you know what I mean.)

  11. I just tried my first go at NMM - after destroying my second attempt with the floor polish.  (Totally covered my base coat & highlights).  

     

    Anyway, I went for the silver/metal look on the armour.  I used a really dark grey, then brushed on a couple shades lighter.  It looks not bad (and actually a bit like metallic) on the table, but on the end of your nose, looks like gray on gray.

     

    Is that normal?  The pics I see on the net look metal, but at the same time, if you look closely, you can see the grays too.  Still haven't got the "clean transitional blend" down though.  (Still some "drybrush" fuzzy-ness on the edges.)

     

    Anyway, I mostly wanted to know if you can get away with using NMM ontop of a NMM.  (I.E. Armour plating with a gold chain overtop.)  I know that this was an early lesson for me as a painter - never paint a metallic ontop of a metallic.

     

    Also, does anyone know what the NMM thing is for really?  It does look sort of neato cool and all, but a well shaded/blended metallic looks good too.  Why bother with it at all?  

     

    Anyway, looking forward to the brass cadbury secret!

  12. This is a problem for terrain building as well.  The scenic bases are really nice on their own, but a tree is more "useful" if you can plop it down where ever you want it on the board.  Scenic bases tend to limit the placement of such "smaller" terrain pieces, since the base is bigger, and a gravestone beneath a tree might not suit if the terrain is bases on a town market!

     

    Guess it mainly depends on what you intend to use each piece for.  If you want the furniture for a dungeon prop, then I wouldn't base it (assuming you want to place a table & chairs for example, inside a Hirst Arts/Dungeon Forge type room.)  If you just want to drop the funriture on the board to represent a room and toss your figures around it (like a tavern without the walls etc.) then I would base it.

     

    The chicken or the egg anyone?  :laugh:

  13. OK, just tried the floor polish schtick with the orginal Vamp Hunter Extraordinaire, Jonas Kane, but didn't notice too much other than the fruity smell.  I dipped the brush/paint mix into a small puddle of the wax,then applied like a wash layer.  (This was also the base coat.)  It looked really cool when it was wet, but after it dried, it didn't appear to be any different than without it.

     

    Did I not use enough wax?  Use it only to blend/shade after the base coat is applied normally???

     

    I must have mucked up something along the way.

     

    On a similar note, I picked up some Extender the other day, and a bottle of "blending medium".  From what I can tell, they are essentially hte same thing, but was wondeirng if anyone can tell me what the two might be use for?  They both say that they keep the paint wet longer, allowing you to blend more easily, but does the blending medium actually have secret magical properties that will blend my colours seemlessly?  Would I get "floating paint" if I used both together?

  14. They simply *must*!!  Waaaay too cool to be left behind!  Mind you, as long as they contnue in DHA line, I'll be more than satisfied!  

     

    It's the helmets I think.... coolest hemets since the roman styled one with the big plummage!

     

    :blues:

  15. I'm just curious, is Reaper still going to be doing any Army packs, or is the Warlord line meant to be "individual" hero types, who combine to form the army?

     

    I just sent a Reaper Online Store order, and agonized for nearly an hour over the ANhurian Gaurd Army PAcks.  I finally had to chop them though due to the $$ Ching Ching $$ of getting both the Abyst and the Treeman.  Next time for sure though.

     

    I *love* the Anhurian packs.  They'd double as excellent town gaurd too.  Just curious though if we can expect any "new sculpts/poses" for these agin but excellent minis.

  16. Just as an aside, and since this thread is about Werner, check out this coll mini!  THis is the kind of kits I'd like ot see on this side of the pond!  (the link is to the content frame on Werner's site)

     

    http://www.freebooterminiatures.com/myshop...ur-pir001.html#

     

    Man, that's too cool!!  Gonna have to scratch build something like that for my own selfish and nefarious purposes!!!!  (Project completion ETA: Just in time for Warlord!!!  MUHAHAHA!!!)  Will post pics once I'm done!

  17. Well, I buy allot of minatures.  (And I mean allot.  More than I'll ever be able to paint in my lifetime that's for sure.)  I trim the flash and scrape he big mold lines, but I'm no obsessive crazy about it really.  I tend ot take the stance that the mini will be 3'+ away from the end of nose when I'm playing, and a good couple of inches away (Hopefully!)from the tip of those who visit and scrutinize what all "my toy soldiers" are for, so a little line here and there doesn't bother me.

     

    As regards to Reaper, I must say that theirs are certainly better than most I've come across.  If this is manly because of newer castings/less where on molds or better maintenance of the moulds themselves, I have no idea.

     

    I do know that when my package of christmas minis finally arrive a few weeks back, I had nearly 25 minis cleaned, based and primed in less than 2 hours.  

     

    In my eyes, that's as near to perfection as mortal Morg can get!   :p

     

    BTW, I *FINALLY* decided on my online order.  I'm gonna go for broke and order **BOTH** the Treeman and an AByst.  HAAAAROOOOO!!!!

     

    EDIT: GADS!  THat was some horrible typing/spelling on that one....

  18. Sombody toss me a sweater!

    That sculpt is so scccchhhhhhaaaaawweeeetly cool that I'm freezin!  That has got to be one of the most outstanding poses & literally the ultimate coolest base I've ever seen!  I thought Lola's base was ground breaking, but thisone takes the cake!

     

    SIGH...

     

    It's sooo very hard to NOT be a fanboy when there is so much coolishness going on.....

     

     

    EDIT:  GARRPK!  I just noticed on the VIP webstie there that Werner has started his own web page.  I don't read german, but by the look of it, that page says "new minature company".  Please tell me that Werner will still be doing minis for Reaper????!!!

  19. My last highly pinned project was a wooden ship the WASA.(Estimate 800hrs)

    Could you posta pic of the ship?  I've a model ship Jones ya see, though I have yet to convinve myself to spend the bucks for nice model.

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