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The Dread Polack

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by The Dread Polack

  1. It sounds like most of your problems have cropped up here and there. Even with a high accuracy, there are bound to be a number of mistakes- and many of them will be mentioned here, since people are obviously less likely to bring up the fact that there was *no* problem with their order (although there's been more of that than I would have expected, heh). The black-stained figure is a bit of a surprise to me. My best guess is that it's a dirty mold-release agent? Glad it cleaned off, but too bad you had to. I had a little schmutz on a couple of mine that could be a bit of the same thing. I think most of what you describe would have occurred in China, rather than at Reaper. I can imagine a scenario in which they ran the machine for a long time until models started coming out rough, then gave it a break, cleaned it up, and restarted it- and you got your order at the tail end of one of those shifts. Who knows. The soft, flexible quality of some of the models has been discussed heavily here. I won't repeat it, but to say that the consensus seems to be that 1) this is definitely intentional, as it allows certain models to be removed more easily from the mold, and 2) it is unlikely to be a problem for most painters, although we're waiting to see if anyone chimes in with a complain after actually trying to paint them. Anyway, make a list of your errors, and email Reaper later this week and no doubt they will replace what is in error.
  2. the briangles on the non green picture indicate she is about 2" tall Yeah, maybe I don't really get the "briangles", but they seem to indicate that pretty much all of Reaper's human-sized minis are about 2" tall. I guess I need to line it up against a pic of one I already own...
  3. I've got a Shaintar intro session lined up and I've picked out 4 bones that I'm building PCs around. I have to write the adventure, make the characters, and paint the minis. I hope my players appreciate it!
  4. I also loved it. If it had been a Michael Bay film, instead of a Guermo Del Toro film, it would have sucked. Only he could have delivered the right tone for this movie to work without taking itself too seriously.
  5. Anyone know how tall this one is? http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Chronoscope/latest/50212#detail/50212_g_1 I might modify her or use some of her in a conversion. Just want to make sure she's the right size.
  6. I usually paint first. If it's meant for a slotted base, I will often use one of these spring clamps to hold the beam between the mini's legs while I paint it: Then I will either slot it as usual; or create my base as usual, and pin the feet down by either clipping off the beam completely and drilling, or leaving a peg under each foot. I drill holes in the base and glue the mini down. The problem is that all that work on the beam can cause me to rub paint off of the mini while I hold it. Also, if I've slotted all my Hordes minis so I can actually play with them. I will have to work with what I have when it comes time to base them. I just don't like it when the feet touch the plastic base, because the basing materials end up covering part of the feet. I like to leave about a penny's thickness worth of space if I can.
  7. When I first started painting, I mixed a lot. Partly because I didn't have much paint, and partly because I felt like it was cheating to just use paint out of the bottle. You're not producing what you're imagining if you're using a pre-mixed color. Now I'm a lot lazier, and have a much larger collection of colors. As my bones and Hordes have prodded me to think a bit more about how I want to paint, I'm mixing a lot more lately. I gave a little advice to a beginner recently. I noticed that I never ran out of paint before it ended up drying out. I come from a tradition of being very stingy with things. I need to be freer with my paint. Seriously, even if it's very expensive paint, per ounce- how much do I really spend on it in a year? This isn't an expensive hobby once you get into it. Feel free to mix it up and buy another bottle if you need to! I gotta keep reminding myself of that.
  8. There you go. :) I'm betting the number of unsatisfied people is still pretty low. As I've often said, online forums are ideal for pedantic discussions, so I felt like the discussion was appropriate, overall. I, for one, don't really have anything more to say on the matter, though. I'm going to finally start actually painting them now. :)
  9. I usually put them in front of a fan for a while after that, and double-check them before painting or priming, but the compressed air seems to speed things up a lot. Once my cans are empty, I'll have to try it with my airbrush :)
  10. Well, I strongly suspect you are correct. Until I try painting any of them, I will refrain from making any actual complaints. However, we don't know that this isn't an error of some kind. They are noticably softer than the previous Bones. Even if was intentional so that they could more easily release them from the molds, we don't know that Reaper knew about it. Besides, even it if is paintable, an arguement could be made that they don't meet expectations. A coke is just as drinkable as a pepsi, but if I expected a coke, I might send it back. They wouldn't have to re-sculpt, of course, but they might be able to re-cast with a different material, assuming it'll work. Anyway, I want to re-iterate that I'm not unhappy with what I've gotten. I'm a bit surprised, though. I just don't want to say to people "I'm fine with it, therefor so should you." As far as we know, Reaper might not be happy with what they got. We'll see what they have to say about it.
  11. You can get pluck foam from Uline: http://www.uline.com/BL_873/Pick-And-Pack-Foam However, you have to buy quite a bit of it. This is something I don't know much about, either. I've seen a variety of qualities in foam trays for miniatures. The foam I got is very similar to what I've seen from Battlefoam and the Reaper case we got. I experimented a bit with upholstry foam and have heard that it works well too. After all, anything that can support me can probably support my miniatures.
  12. I haven't heard of anyone else doing this, so I thought I'd share. After washing my minis, I like to use a can of compressed air (like the kind you use to dust out your keyboard and computer) to blow the little water droplets out of the crevices so it will dry faster. I've noticed those droplets can seem to last for days if you don't get to them, and this is a lot easier than dabbing them out with paper towels or swabs.
  13. I think it is worth taking this seriously as a quality issue, and even if I don't share it (yet), I can understand Bob the Inquisitor's frustration. It might be reasonable to say that, at least in the case of some of the models, the quality is unacceptible and will need to be replaced. Most of us are still pretty excited about our giant pile of bones and don't have the perspective yet to think about this critically. I suspect I'll be able to work with all the minis I have, but we'll see once I try to paint the small goblins and familiars. I can say, even at this point, that they are a lot softer than I would prefer. They are softer than, I think, Reaper has suggested any of them would be. This might be considered a failure on their part, but maybe not an egregious one. It might have to adjust myself to be able to work with them, and while this doesn't anger me, there's a point where a customer shouldn't have to do this. We just need to decide what is appropriate here, and we should feel free to discuss that until Reaper responds, but of course try to remain calm and civil and try not to be dismissive of those with differing opinions.
  14. I used to work for UPS and this sounds like a "Mistoggle". That's where you put it on the correct truck, but scan the incorrect destination bar code, and the computer thinks it's going to KY until it gets loaded onto a truck in Buffalo. There are ways of correcting it, but it doesn't always get caught, and sometimes they don't bother if it's already out for delivery. It can get pretty intesting. One time I hit a few buttons and caused several thousand mistoggles that someone else might have gotten nailed for if it wasn't so obvious a mistake :)
  15. Thank you. I don't think I used CD100 on mine. I'm not sure what the stuff I used is called. The guy at the store looked at the pluck-foam tray from Battlefoam that I brought and said the stuff he had was softer than that. It seems to be true, however, it works just fine for my use. I think especially when you consider that a pluck-foam tray is only glued onto the base around the outside and mine is glued down entirely, it is a bit stronger overall. It only flexes slightly, even while full of metal minis.
  16. I used one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-9mm-Metal-Body-Snap-Knife-DWHT10037/202710470?N=4j2#.Ud5IfDvVDkZ The foam is somewhat resistant to piercing damage, but once you get your blade all the way through the foam, you can saw through the foam with the blade extended. The underside of the foam is a 1/4 inch "closed cell" foam. See below. That's the best site I've found. The prices are actually slightly better than the local store I bought from, but I saved more without shipping. I found the site through an online article here: http://creativetwilight.com/making-your-own-foam-trays/ He suggests using Y37ch for the main part of the tray and CD100 for the bottom. If you read the description of the foam types, the 3002 is mainly for sound insulation. I have no idea how it would do as a bottom layer. My bottom layer material is a little different than what is on the site. It's a little softer, but I find it to be perfectly fine. The guy who sold me the foam recommended the knife method I described. He said a hot wire will also work but said you should be sure to do it in a well-ventilated area, as it creates some nasty fumes. And finally, here are some pics of the trays I've made so far:
  17. FYI, I made my 1" tray at 12 x 15.5 for $6. I picked up the foam locally. If your case is 6" deep, thent that's $36. The bad news is that shipping tends to be expensive if you're ordering online. I can send you a link if you want, but Walmart sells Upholstry foam in big enough sheets, I think, for the reaper case for around the same price.
  18. I've mentioned it a couple times on here. I have made a few custom-cut trays with uncut gray packing foam. Depending on how much I use the Reaper case compared to my Battlefoam case, I will likely make a few trays for my Reaper case. I will probably keep the existing trays for the small figures and make my own trays for the larger figures. Without getting too detailed, I could probably make a 1" tray for the Reaper case for $6. I would have to cut my own compartments, which I have found to be pretty easy.
  19. Yes, I was using your sheet, and thanks for it! I figured that was the case, so it looks like yes, I have everything correct.
  20. Also, if you can find regular gray packing foam or upholstry foam, you can trace your existing trays and cut your own compartments however you want. I did this for my Battlefoam bag and found it quite easy and a lot cheaper than buying pre-made foam trays. For some reason, nobody I've mentioned it to seems that interested :)
  21. I went through everything last night, and I'm pretty sure I got everything. There are a couple lines that say, for instance, something like "Zombies (3)" with an indicated qty of "1" in the first column; and I got 3 of them. In another case, there were some pictures that show there being 3, and I only got 1; as the qty column indicated. I was a little confused, but I'm pretty sure it's correct. Also, I made a personal error and bought an extra pair of Storm giants, forgetting they were already part of the vampire package. I just got excided by the giants and clicked on all of them :) I regret not getting the Forces of Nature, so I'll see if anyone wants to trade.
  22. I've been through my quickly. They definitely vary in quality. So far, the ones I was looking forward to most look the best. I was a little disappointed in the cowgirl's missing nose. I don't know if I can fix that with my limited sculpting skills, but then I also don't have much need for cowgirls, so she's going to be down on the list. Nothing egregious though, just a little flash and a little loss of detail here & there. Still well worth the price. Like most people are saying, I expect the quality to improve once the casting is done in-house.
  23. I went through my stuff last night, and Kaldrax actually wasn't the most flexible one of the lot. I am mildly conserned that it will be a problem with a couple of them (I think they have already been mentioned here), but people seem to be saying, so far, that it isn't a problem. I already decided I wouldn't worry even if it was. I'm still sticking with that plan :)
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