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eastman

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Posts posted by eastman

  1. After using epoxy to mount the figure to the base, I mix Woodland Scenics ballast into the epoxy to use as a filler. The ballast does tend to settle and leave a smooth top finish. If you want a textured surface, add a little more ballast directly on top.

  2. I also put a layer of dullcote on the mini once I finish an area and before highlighting, darklining, etc. Makes it much easier to clean up later mistakes.

     

    When I take minis to paint somewhere away from home (IMMPS,etc) I give the minis a layer of dullcote before packing them to take home.

  3. You might also want to try rechargable batteries.

    The problem I have with rechargeables is that they have even shorter life spans than normal batteries. They're cheaper in the long run, but when you're out and about you still run out of juice . . .

    If the manual with my Pentax digital-SLR is correct, the NiMH rechargeables should last about 400-450 pictures, which is 4 times longer than the AA sized alkalines and about half as long as the non-rechargeable lithium batteries.

     

    The NiMH batteries are a huge improvement over the NiCd rechargeables of the past.

  4. For people who have done a lot of work with 35mm SLRs and like the control, I have to agree with Flynn about the digital SLRs. (nearly 20 years of experience with Pentax SLRs)

     

    Once I get the whole lighting set-up perfected, I will be getting some great mini photos, just need to get the painting quality to match.

     

    I know a few people with Nikon CoolPix cameras. Everyone seems to be very pleased with them and they do take good pictures.

  5. The only guide I have in a book is based on Andrea Colors paints, but the basic idea is this -

     

    Basecoat with a mixture (approx 1:1) of "golden ochre" and "brown leather". This becomes the highlights. Then add shadows with unmixed brown leather. If that isn't dark enough for the shadows, you could always add in a darker brown (such as Reaper walnut).

     

    I think in Vallejo Model colors, that would be #121 yellow ochre and #147 Leather brown.

     

    Since I haven't actually tried this yet, I am only going by the pictures in the book to know it should work.

  6. Another quick question....(i'm having a lot of these lately)....do people flock and add grass and stuff to brocoli bases...or is that just generally not done???...I want to start playing with basingon some of my brocoli base mini's, but I am not up to (nor do i have the equipment to) start choping them from their brocoili bases.

    Yes, you can add flock, static grass, field grass, sand, ballast, whatever, to the broccoli base. I use a lot of the small ballast stones from Woodland Scenics for rocky areas (especially underground).

     

    After spraying with sealer, you can drybrush the grass, flock etc to give some additional color.

     

     

    If you don't want to cut off the broccoli base, you can use the drop-in square and hex Reaper bases. Just use filler (greenstuff, plaster, epoxy mixed with sand or small stones (like ballast) to build thing up evenly. It is what I did for my Tiki:

    http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8280

  7. I also recommend adding the flow improver to the washes. Painting the wash into the areas you want to darken will also give you more control.

     

    My usual technique is to first spray with sealer (DullCote). This gives a smoother surface so the wash is less likely to be pulled out of the recesses by capillary action. Also, if you do get the wash on raised areas, you can "mop" them with a damp brush to remove excess wash pigment before it sets completely (this works for both paint and ink, the DullCote keeps the wash from softening the paint layers below).

     

    This works for me, YMMV.

  8. I believe there have been earlier listings on this topic.

     

    If I am understanding wet palettes correctly, you use them for your color mixtures at full strength. This keeps the custom color mixtures from drying out until the whole mini has been finished.

     

    The thinned paint to actually brush on the mini is done on a separate palette. Thinned paint on a wet palette would be nothing but a mess.

  9. How often do you need to get new bits for your pin drill?

    Since you will drilling into a soft metal (pewter, lead, etc) the bits should last a long time before dulling and needing to be replaced.

     

    It is important to only leave enough of the bit exposed to drill the depth you need (example ~1/4" exposed when drilling a 1/8" deep hole). This will protect the bit from breaking. This is very helpful with the really small bits (wire bit sizes in the upper 70s) because they are often not straight when brand new.

  10. About the only thing to add about pinning: if you are in doubt if you should pin, in general, you are better off pinning and not needing to have pinned, then thinking "this joint doesn't REALLY need to be pinned?" and then having it break after you've finished the paint job.

     

    Been there, done that.

     

    Also, epoxy (30 minute or 5 minute) will make a stronger joint than cyanoacrylics (superglue).

  11. My technique with the field grass is slightly different than Orchid Noir's, but will give the same result: I randomize the end of the clump of FG, then cut off square. I use the thick cyanoacrylic (gel) to hold the base of the clump together and then stick it down to the base. (basically, this is exactly as described on the back of the Woodland Scenics packet with the substitution of CA gel for the hob-e-tac).

     

    After the glue is completely set, I also lightly drybrush with a different shade of green (or brown for the dried out grass) to add a little color variation.

  12. I don't know how easy or difficult it is to find the "Fantasy Armies - Legions of the Realm" line from Black Tree Design, but they have a mini which would be absolutely perfect :

     

    lr0010.jpg

     

    The minis are slight modifications of the names/features of characters from LotR.

     

    (I brought one of these back last month when I was in Edinburgh)

     

    Check out their website for more info - http://www.black-tree-design.com

     

    LR0010 - Gladrall the Elven Lady

  13. Yes, I've seen the pictures of the green by Gael (it is on CMoN as well IIRC), but I want one in metal

    Oops, sorry, poor research on my part ::(:

    As is the case with human nature, we often want the very things we know we can't (or aren't supposed to) have

     

    Anybody with an extra Reaper-con Sophie that they'd love to sell?

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