jenova
-
Posts
416 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by jenova
-
-
Yep, it's happened to me too. It's weird because it looks good as long as it's not dry, but then it seems very chalky when dry. It also happens with the Olive Drab triad and to some extend the triad with Peacock Green.
I usually paint dark to light, but with these I've started basecoating with the lightest color and the shade with the rest of the triad. That has reduced the chalkiness for me though I still need to be careful. A light glaze of green ink after you are done also helps a lot.
-
I really like both paintjobs. Awesome sculpts too.
Are the bases from Microart? I really like how the snow looks.
-
The gold was undercoated in Reaper Walnut (old Reaper Pro). Next, a bit of Vallejo Ochre Yellow to base. This was shaded by my cloak's base, which was a blend of equal parts Reaper Master Weathered Blue and Volcano Brown. Highlight back up with Ochre Yellow glazes. Touch of white added to Ochre Yellow. Then white to top off the tips. I skipped using any kind of lemon yellow or yellow so as to keep the gold "aged" and antiqued. Unlike the cold, bright steel blade, I didn't want shiny gold. I wanted it warmer, earthier.
Thank you for the NMM recipe and the bigger pictures. I just found my bottle of Yellow Ochre so I will go play with some NMM!
Now you may put the figure in a box and send it to me
: -
The ones I've experiences have a space between the nozzle part and the rest of the bottle. Sort of like this:
Not sure if you guys are having the same issue?
-
She could look like a male elf, but definitely an elf, ears or no ears.
-
I've seen it on a couple of mine. Brand new ones. There was clearly a rather large space close to the edge. Not sure if it's the molding of the bottle or the assembly that went wrong.
It speaks volumes of my laziness that I just put it back and chose another color
-
Ohhh, not bad! I really like what you've done with the cloak. Great color. I agree that it could use a little more shading in the deepest parts.
The rune looks really nice, but not really glowing. I guess it's the absence of light right next to the rune that throws off the glow effect a little.
The NMM is gorgeous. What did you use for the gold?
Got bigger pics?
Now, go paint another one!
-
I've used several kinds of water effects, and I've never had any problems. Make sure you follow the directions. For a lot of water effect products there is a maximum thickness of the layer. If you pour out a thicker layer, it doesn't dry properly.
Good luck with your project
-
It effects the quality of my paintjobs a lot. For a long period of time after I moved I didn't have a good lamp, but my minis turned out much worse than usual. The blends were not as smooth and the overall look was not as defined. I definitely recommend getting a good lamp with daylight bulbs. The colors and transition look so different under different lights. If you can get natural light from a window that is great too.
-
Hi Jenova! I'm Kyle from the Dark Age forum but apparently Kyle was already taken.
I do recognize the style now!
*waves at Kyle (Gibson)
* -
Very nice work. Love what you'd done with the snake tail. Maybe add some additional shading to the metallics. They don't seem to have the same depth as the skin (which looks incredible btw). The hair could also do with a final highlight to really bring it out.
Excellent work. You paint beautiful faces.
-
Really cool. I love your colorful style.
-
Thank you for the comments everyone
Much appreciated.Good to hear from you, Jenova! I hadn't checked your website in over a year, but I see now that you posted some updates in the past few months (many of them topless figures, not work-safe).I like the bright and smooth colors, and the gleam of the sword (especially the basket hilt).
I would darken the shadows between the fingers, between the strands of the back braid, between the hair and the face, and on the ears. They don't need blacklining, but shadows on a real person would be darker than these, and the higher contrast would help balance the figure. Since the sword is so good and has such high contrast, the other parts of the figure look dull by comparison. Also, the studs on her sleeves don't seem to have highlights as high as those on the studs at the bottom of the tunic.
Thanks Derek! I had to take a mini painting break for a couple of years, but I've "restarted" a couple of months ago. Been busy looking at all the new stuff. I'm really amazed how far your sculpting has come! Going to pick up the gnome babe from the previews for sure!
I agree with you on the depth. She's from right after ReaperCon back in 2005, and at that point I was using the triads as my only base/shade/highlight. After getting back to painting I've started adding darker colors to the shadows and lighter to the highlights to provide some more contrast. I think the newer stuff on my website (sorry about the boobies!
) has more depth than the old stuff which is a little flat. -
I recently found this mini in my carrying case and realized I'd never taken pictures of her. She's a pretty quick paintjob. I think the sculpt is very charming
-
1
-
-
Wow, it does look like a good job, but I think you can get the same results with brown liner, GW Wash, and Future Floor wax for a smaller price.
I know I definitely can't get the same results with that mixture. The transitions using the quick shade are so much smoother. They almost look blended. It also works as a really good gloss varnish, so the paintjobs are protected really well. I need to take some pictures of the BF's Hordes army at some point. I really can't believe the results he gets with this stuff.
-
Love those results!
I must admit that I use the Army Painter dip too. It's just amazing for speed painting. I really can't believe the things you can achieve with it, especially on non-human, very textures sculpts.
It's pretty much
for me. -
Thank you
I really appreciate the comments. I try to be a bit hard on myself in order to improve. I'm lazy though, so it's hard
-
Thank you! I'm glad you guys like her!
-
Here she is all finished. Not 100% happy. I should have added more lining between her fingers, and I was a bit too sloppy when painting her hair and her hat. The base didn't turn out too good either. Otherwise I think she turned out pretty decent. I'm happy with the cloakand the pants.
And I need to matte varnish, but it scares me!
-
1
-
-
I've had similar happen to a figure I painted, though it turned completely white
. It depends on humidity on how it'll turn out :( it wasn't the varnish I don't thinkIn theory I'd agree, but I was using brush on primer. No idea why it suddenly gunked up like that. Gross
-
So, jenova, it's been a while. Have you painted her hair yet?
Yep, yep, she's all done. Thank you all for your help
I got lazy and painted it a dark brown.
I just need to matte varnish and take a photo, but considering this is what happened last time I matte varnished:
I'm a little hesitant
-
They look great! Very vibrant. You are a brave man painting for a couple of 10 year olds!
One thing that skrikes me is that the bases clash with the minis a little. I think this is because the basing materials haven't been painted (correct me if I'm work) and therefore they don't have the same depth as the minis. I'd suggest doing a light drubrysh of a bone color and maybe a brown wash on the rocks, and a light drybrush of a bone, light brown or light olive color on the grass.
If you want to improve your NMM, I'd suggestion bringing the highlights up to pure white. That will give the metal and more shiny and metallic look.
Thank you for sharing your work and welcome
-
Thanks for the feedback.
There is actually shading and highlights on the skin as well as some additional shading under the hat and some blush, but I take WIP pictures with flash so the skintones tend to look washed out. Interesting about the color wheel. I know there are different types. On the ones I have, red and green are opposite. What are the differences between the different types of wheels?
I've been playing around with a style that is a little more European than my usual bright work. I'm actually quite enjoying doing darker minis with almost black shading and only a few bright details. I think it's very much a matter of taste. I might even start using metallics too
-
I've given up on not touching the figure long ago. I just paint the exposed parts last :(
Olive Skin Tones
in Tips & Advice: Painting
Posted
Jubilee, that is gorgeous! The teal is great too.
Regarding the Olive Skintone Triad, I really like it. I find it very, very easy to work with. Like Jubilee, I'd recommend adding some darker color for the deepest shading and/or an ivory color for the final highlights. I find that most of the triads are like that. Not quite enough contrast by themselves.