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blefuscu

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  1. I’ve been trying to do some research on glues and have been poring over threads/sites/etc. Still confused about what products are the same or not. I’m looking for a plastic glue that works well for GW stuff, upcoming Reaper bones, and fixing heroclix figures – if such a product exists in 1. My main problem now with super glues (and I think I trid standard zap a gap for a while but the tip/cap just dries too fast) is that it causes clouding on the clixies. So here’s what I’ve been able to gather… Gorilla glue – seems to be have many proponents. But my problem and maybe I got the wrong one for hobbiests, is that it foams up and expands. Zap a gap plasti-zap plastic glue – not sure what this is. The bottle says Medium CA, so is it just a thick CA blend? The product site says it won’t damage painted plastics and dries clear. GW plastic glue – I read on another forum this is a cement based product but only works on polystyrene? I think clixies are vinyl based? Tamiya brush on cement – will this work for painted stuff like heroclix? I’m leaning towards this as someone said it won’t stick to your fingers and that’s a big plus for me as I’m always sticking my skin/fingernails with superglue/CA. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
  2. Ah, ok... I found the Dremel 400-2/51 on Amazon for $60, but it had some terrible reviews... but the Dremel 400-6/90 ($120) got some great reviews... strange.... must have been some back luck on the buyers, but a lot less (7 for the 2/51 and 49 for the 6/90). hmm
  3. Thanks for the all the detailed the responses!!! I think I'll be fine with a corded -- i've been using my dad's hand-me-down corded powerdrill and it has served me fine so I think i can get by without cordless. So it sounds like i should look for the variable speed and the flex/gooseneck also. Sad to hear not all attachments work on all models, though.
  4. OK... so i'm finally going to drop some money down for a dremel since the wife has some projects for me around the house where i could use the little rotary sander/filer. But there are just so many versions they have... I can't figure out what to get. There are sets as low as $30-40 that seem like it has everything a set 2x as much has. Besides cordless vs. corded, are the differences that noticable? Thanks!!
  5. Well, it's been 5 days and there's some slight progress. It looks like it was able to eat away all the excess glues, and acrylic paints came off with some scrubbing. but a mini that was primerd showed no trace of stripping... this is very sad. oh yeah, the product I have is called "Bix Paint Stripper". What's next? Is pure acetone better? Will that Citristrip Gel or Brake fluid work? I've tried simple green and CSC, but neither worked on primered stuff very well.
  6. I can never mix the right amount to get a good wash - it's always too dark or too light, and usually I have to do multiple washes to get recesses to show. i just saw this and was wondering if anyone's tried it...perhaps it truly is a wonder wash and can save me some time: http://www6.mailordercentral.com/thewarsto...s.asp?dept=1292
  7. Thanks for the reassurance! I've left it in a few days, and it looks like the stripper is changing color and some paint is coming off that a previous soak in simple green and castrol super clean didn't remove, but a lot still remains on the minis. I didn't realize that you still have to scrub them... thought it would be magic! Also didn't realize that plastic will bond to it... this is a interesting new development. One of the reasons I was also doing this is to remove excess glue from some of the minis that I bought prepainted/preassembled. hmm.
  8. Ok, so this time I actually bought real paint stripper, but i don't know if it's the right kind (if there are different kinds). I comes out all like mucus, thick and yellowish translucent - almost opaque like snot. I think it's a brush on kind of painted walls... will this work? so far i've had stuff in it for a few hours and it's made no progress.
  9. I was wondering if someone can make a sticky of the best tips... it seems like a topic that is pretty popular, and it would help to get a consolidation. I'm looking for good primer that is economical for big armies, and it seems GW has a good number of votes. I've tried armory (powdery) and krylon (only grey so far, but it was very thick), so now i'm onto GW. Floquil sounds interesting, but I don't have an airbrush, and I once got one but killed it quickly due to not knowing how to use it. Maybe I'll try testors later also where there is more cash... anyhow, a few questions. 1. a post from someone a few months ago mentioned that GW primer is just plain paint when they had a chem company analyze it. anyone else know if this is true, or know of any other anecdotal evidence? i myself might believe it, as i've purchased a number of auctions on ebay where they claim to have primed it with GW primer, but the primer always seem very fine, like regular spray paint. 2. what is the exact definition of a "coat" of primer when they say to have 2 coats for optimal coverage without getting too thick? I'm just dense and slow... to me, one coat would mean one pass with the spray. however, i can't get any coverage with 1 pass (be it spray paint or primer). I usually have to do 3 passes before i get decent coverage. And that's 3 passes per side of the mini, so usually I do 3 passes on the front, 2 sides, and back, so a total of 12 passes for "coat". Then i wait about 15 min and repeat. Hopefully this makes sense... I'm really in need of help...
  10. Ah...ok, I didn't realize there was a difference between a stripper and a thinner. I didn't think there was a differnce at first since it was able to strip my test mini (well, actually what happened was I oversprayed it with spray paint, but it nonetheless did work for that one). Thanks for the clarification.
  11. Just wondering if you guys know whether paint thinner can go bad/become useless. I have some old paint thinner that I dug up and worked well on one mini i tested on, so I put a bunch of others in for a bath. It's been apprx 4 months now, and none of the paint on any of those minis are budging, even when i put a brush to them. Anyone know if this is due to age? thanks!
  12. Cool, thanks for all your responses! i'll prolly just use the cut off sprues/tabs from the metal minis for now.
  13. So i just read in the recent gw black gobbo (yeah, i'm still hooked on their stuff, unfortunately) about dropping a penny into the paint pot as a stirring agent similar to the reaper skulls, and as a bonus it apparently keeps the paint from drying. anyone heard of that, or know about the qualities of the penny that might do this? i'm also wondering how likely it is to oxidize and rust in there, since many of my old copper pieces are turning brown and/or green
  14. Anyone ever try using inks? i just read about that it can do double duty by enhancing the vibrancy of the colors as well as diluting it.
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