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Everything posted by fectin

  1. fectin

    Maledrakh abominables the Yetis

    What is going on with those bases?! They're gorgeous.
  2. fectin

    Air dry clay Bigby's Hand

  3. fectin

    Cryohydra from model by mz4250

    I'm always inspired by the the minis posted here. People who are skilled are an inspiration to improve; people who are just starting out are an inspiration to try things in the first place ("if she can make something that good, maybe I could make something !"). People who show off different paint techniques, or bashing techniques, or basing, or whatever are a constant nudge to go try new things. I hope everyone keeps showing off because of that. Regardless of how good you think it is, I'm always glad to see what folks are making. So in the spirit of trying to give that back, here's something that turned out okay: This is a great model designed by mz4250, which I printed out and painted. I talk about it a little more in the WIP thread (here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/83295-mz4250-pyrohydra/ ), but this was something I tried to pull together quickly to support a game. It worked great for that; far better than my usual "pretend this ogre is a hydra," but I think it turned out okay overall too. I don't see that many printed models show up here, so this is evidence that it can work!
  4. Here's one solution: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/78100-my-dragons-dont-share/&tab=comments#comment-1656311 I got busy and haven't tried it, but it sounds good.
  5. fectin

    77039: Janan, Female Dragon Slayer as a Statue

    Huh. That seems surprisingly easy for such a good result. It looks great!
  6. Very nice. I'm a fan of mohawks for bald minis. How did you get the hair texture?
  7. That's just outstanding. Death is especially jaw-dropping, but they're all fantastic.
  8. fectin

    mz4250 pyrohydra

    Alright. I finished this up. Didn't put a lot of additional care into it, but I think it's still an improvement. Finishing touches were adding the teeth, adding a paler belly (drow skin highlight), stripes+ridges, clearcoat, and basing. No progress pictures because my phone was upstairs and I was too lazy to go get it. The stripes were the only interesting part. I used an ancient bottle of nightmare purple (which is somehow still good!) to paint the ridges. Then I mixed the nightmare purple with drow skin, and put a stripe centered on each ridge. Just a rough triangle coming down on each side. I did not try to blend them into the ridges. That looked ugly and left obvious hard transitions between the ridge and the stripe, and the stripes contrasted too much with the base skin. So I fired up the airbrush and mixed up a batch of drow skin+wash medium (mostly water with a little bit of flow-aid), using more medium than I would usually use water. I put a couple coats of that lightly over the stripes and over the belly transition, and let it build up slightly at the base of the ridges (where it smoothed out the rough transition. The clearcoat was to add gloss. It looked weird with a matte finish, and I thought it needed to look more salamanderish. That shows up poorly in these pictures because of the reflections, but if you compare a non-reflecting area to the earlier pictures, you can see why I'm much happier with the glossy finish.
  9. fectin

    mz4250 pyrohydra

    Once again, I found myself in need of a mini for a game (tomorrow) and didn't have one on hand. So, I turned to mz4250's marvelous collection of miniature designs and printed my own. I thought it might be nice to post a few WIP shots this time, though I think the whole thing will wrap up fairly quickly. Also, I'm waiting for the basecoat to dry at the moment. So, here are some pics of the mostly-complete hydra. I've filled most of the joins with green stuff. You can see on two of the heads where the neck didn't print correctly, and I had to extend it slightly. Also, the entire belly has a thin layer of greenstuff, because the supports didn't come off cleanly and it looked bad. If you zoom in, you can see that this will have the characteristic triangle mesh of an STL file and the characteristic layer lines of this kind of print. It should work out ok anyway. Here we have the base I threw together earlier today for this, and before-and-afters of the initial basecoating. The base is a reaper base with some greenstuff molded with Happy Sepuku's sampler into a path. I painted the path (shadowed stone->stone grey->weathered stone), washed it with a black-green wash, and put some moss into the gaps using the black wash and a sepia wash as binders. I painted the rest of the base brown, flocked it with baking soda, let it dry some, gently brushed the path clear with a stiff brush, let it dry more, and hit it with a lot of gloss enamel. Baking soda makes beautiful fresh snow for five minutes, then abandons the base for anything nearby. clearcoat makes it look wet, but seems to keep it attached to the base.
  10. Congratulations and well done!! Overall, it looks great, but there are a few elements that especially stand out to me: The armors all look real good. I think it's the way you washed them, but the leathers and the metals both look great. The terrain is great. I know it's just weathered rock, but it's hard to do that well so it doesn't look bad and also doesn't draw focus. Also, I doubt that anytone who hasn't tried this challenge will realize just how hard that is to do with a size zero. Color schemes. I like how each hero has their own color, but it still looks natural. The dragon scales look great. That's how I wanted mine to look and I couldn't make it happen. I love how some elements of this are always the same. The elf always ends up with shiny kneepads. Sir Purple always ends up purple. etc. :D I'm very impressed. Also, a few bits of advice, just from my experience (regrets): The dragon WILL slowly fall forward over the next few months. You need to do something about that. Now that the challenge is over, clearcoat those suckers. You may want to leave everything as it was when you finished; you may want to tidy up the details. Either way, make sure you preserve your hard work. (also, dull coat can make the stone look less shiny)
  11. Looking good! From where you are now, it looks like you just need to stay on the rails and this thing will be easy-peasy. Nice work, and finish strong!
  12. Dang, nice work! Remember, they have to be done, not pretty. Once you get the painting mostly done crudely, you can think of everything past that as improvements, not tasks standing between you and completion. (it worked that way for me anyway...) You've done the hard part already, you can definitely finish this out! One more day!
  13. fectin

    mz4250 pyrohydra

    Oops. That was probably the DDS2 badge at one point. Should be gone now. Thanks for the heads-up!
  14. fectin

    mz4250 pyrohydra

    I didn't get nearly finished with this. Airbrushing seemed like a good shortcut, so I loaded up the trusty Badger with drow skin and water... and used too much water. It worked fine, but it took many thin coats, and I was done by the time the base was done. Here's in progress: ...and where I finished up last night: So I slapped some mouth color (cactus rose) and eye color (adamantium) on it right before I ran out the door this morning, and here's where it ended up: It's no beauty, but is still better than the usual "pretend this troll is a hydra." I'm busy all this week, so will probably go back and clean it up next weekend, then post the finished piece in Show Off.
  15. Doing great! If you start to lose steam doing all the basecoating, you can use starting the characters as a break. Go go go!
  16. fectin

    mz4250 pyrohydra

    Files available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241912, this guy is the creator: https://www.patreon.com/mz4250. You don't get the same quality as reaper from printing these, but they look fantastic for the price and wait.
  17. Go go go! You can do it! One thing I found helpful was to keep a firm estimate of the time remaining, and leave myself plenty of margin. Otherwise, I'll just warn you that the central tower has way more surface area than you think. I also found it helpful to paint in the hangout, but YMMV. Good luck!
  18. fectin

    Stormwing the Blue (pic-heavy)

    Outstanding work on the detail.
  19. fectin

    Taupe Bulk

    I needed a mini for a certain monster for a game tomorrow, so over the past few days, I made it. First I grabbed Zavala's excellent design (here, https://www.shapeways.com/product/XWJQG4MSX/umber-hulk) and printed and assembled it. Then I basecoated it white. Nearly everything else is Daler Rowney's burnt umber ink. I mixed it with a bunch of water and matte medium for the first few coats, and gradually built that up for a few coats. I forgot how much that mixture beads up, but it gave a nice mottled look that carried through the later layers. Then I went back over the shell areas with a couple coats of pure ink (there's a red ink coat on there in the middle), and used it to darken and blend some of the light spots. The eyes, claws, and the teeth of the outer mandibles are all I had to touch up with paint. The base is generic stamped greenstuff with the hulk's feet imprinted into it. Pretty far from my finest work, but not bad for from-scratch in a few days. Overall, I'm happy with this result.
  20. fectin

    23 additional September figures

    All outstanding. The gorgon (bull) made me think "Oh! that's how gorgons are supposed to look."
  21. fectin

    Homemade Bathysphere "Benthic Walker"

  22. fectin

    The newbie and the Giant

    Very nice. The skin, metal, fur, and basing are all outstanding,
  23. I like the Assassin's Creed look on the third one. Intentional or no, it looks stupendous!
  24. fectin

    Pulverizer Automaton

    My D&D group needed a pulverizer mini, so I made one. WIP is over at http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/77983-pulverizer/ There are a couple areas I'm not really happy about, but I learned a lot, and am very happy with the overall result. Areas I'd try to do better in the future: Original sculpt - less-blobby joins to the shoulders, have legs sculpted, crisper runes Casting - fewer bubbles, better coating on the release, dye the material Paint - better coverage on the base coat, verdegris, better leg rust, better compatibility between the different paints and casting material Maybe add a tiny LED? Things I like about how this turned out: - Overall shape goes well with "punchy sound-cannon" motif - Runes look pretty good - No fin (it's supposed to have one, I like it without) - Transparent effect inside (though it could be improved...) - Rust to emphasize "hand" shape More pics: Sir Forescale was MIA, so here's an orky substitute: