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Hello everyone! Here are some pictures of weapon displays I made. I used Inventor and Blender to design and texture these tables and display, and printed them with my Elegoo printer. The weapons are from Reaper Miniatures packs 2 and 3.

There is only a week left until Scrap Cemetery - Car Junkyard finally launches! This modern and post apocalyptic project is a perfect fit to get your table decorated! Be notified when we`re ready for takeoff: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/pharaohsworkshop/scrap-cemetary-wasteland-junkyard-pay-what-you-want?ref=264i7x

Live on Kickstarter : HERE Stay tuned on my next projects : Newsletter

Good day everyone, here are pictures of a 3d printed Chapel I completed last night. The cursed tree and tombstones are also 3d printed. I painted them with Reaper MSP paint.

With the Kingdom Death range seemingly moving towards 3D printed minis for their non-game stuff, I reluctantly picked up a pair (My only previous experience with a 3D printed mini being a very anime-styled witch I got from Ebay. I opened the package, looked at the tiny mini encased in a giant mass of web-like filaments, had a flashback to trying to clean Forgeworld resin minis (The triangles! To this day they haunt me still!) and shoved her straight back on Ebay.):- (Astri the Promised is the big one, the other is Badar the Venomous). Fortunately, these ones were nowhere near as bad! They'd already been given a pretty good tidy up, so all I had to do was remove any remaining nubs and give them a good scrub with a wet toothbrush. Hopefully they'll be dry by tomorrow, so they can be assembled and undercoated.

So this one was fun. Took a while to do, and it has a lot of small bits to paint and assemble. Also took my first try at mud and liquid affects for basing.

So I've been printing the Fat Dragon Games dungeon tile that I received back durimg one of the Bones KSs. Finally got to paimting them all. Figured that I should start a topic to record what I end up doimg with them. Here is the second batch that I painted drying. I primed them with my air brush and black Stylnrez, followed by succesibe layers of medium and light gray craft paints. I used a 1 inch trim brush for tje drybrushing.

So these are the two terrain pieces I finished up last night. The core of both these models are from Terrain4Print's Ulvheim modular terrain system and printed in PLA at 0.2mm on my Prusa. This was a quick "gazebo" made exclusively of pieces I printed: This is a hybrid piece. The foundation and walls are still Ulvheim pieces, epoxied together, and Magic Sculpt used to blend the seams between the pieces on the outside. The roof was made by me using card board and card stock, while the strips for the upper floor are just plastic card. The reason I went with the handcrafted roof is because while the T2P roofs are nice, the number of pieces available limit the roof options. By hand building my roofs, I can get as complex as I want. I'm really enjoying this hybrid approach of 3d printing and hand crafting. My next building is a larger church.

So I have a commission to print a bunch of 37mm Type 55 Chinese AA guns in 15mm scale. Most parts are in resin to get the requisite detail. After 6 hours printing time we have all the gun barrels and most of the cruciform bases complete (unfortunately one failed), the gun mounts and remaining cruciform bases are currently on the printer. I'll add photos of all the parts as they're completed (I won't be assembling them though as I don't trust the postal service!) Questions welcome ;-)

So one night I'm painting away on my second ReaperCon entry when it hit me that it didn't qualify for the Open category, which I was shooting for. So, brushes down time and had to think. Next day, decided that I'd skip to my third planned entry, since it would qualify for Open and Ordinance. Thus starting a mad dash to finish a custom created Mech/CAV/BSR with only about three weeks until the convention. Spent a few days drawing up the figure in 3D, then over to the printer to pop it out last Saturday. And while it came out more or less fine, the phrase "what have I done to myself" came to mind. Why? I designed it to be small, and much smaller than the mobile howitzer I did last year. It's supposed to carry around a phased array antenna as some sort of ELINT or AWACS (GWACS?!) vehicle. Not meant to be a brawler, so it only need a set of small guns. And came up with a cool shape for the cab/upper part of the figure. No problem there until it came out from the print bed. The picture below shows off all the pieces but one. Didn't have Sir Forscale handy, so a paint bottle will have to suffice. The two curved pieces are the top and bottom of the array, printed like they are shown. I've found that curves work well as long as it's not curving across layers (circle laying flat versus on edge). But, as it was printing, it was a mere single pass along the curve and another coming back. Two whole filament passes. Uh oh. It's very thin and flexible, and that's when the alarms started going off that it wasn't going to be a rugged little piece like my previous design. But... let's roll with it anyways! It wouldn't be the first time I've done something with a product the salesman never intended. In reality, bending it a bit back and forth, it was rather plastic. Well, duh. But I mean in the sense that while flexible, it wasn't being damaged. And that one piece missing I mentioned before? The features were so small, they didn't print. I was left with a single flat layer of plastic. No reason to even bother with that then, since it was meant to be a decorative plate. So on to the next step! Artists gesso aka the poor man's body filler. The general concept is for the gesso to be lathered on, filling in the spaces, gaps, and layer lines. Won't get them completely, but will make things a lot better. The results are below. That piece at the lower left was started to be sanded when I remembered I might want to make a WIP thread, and so it looked more like the one in the right when I started. Spent yesterday going over all the pieces with a sanding stick, and getting down to about where the plastic starts. That should give a sufficiently smooth surface to get to priming and painting. And that is where it stands at present: ready to be assembled a bit and then primed. Originally, I was planning on making a bunch of evergreen like trees (found a cool tutorial using floral wire and fibers), which would have led to a grey and white camo scheme. But a trip to Michael's to get a birch disk for my first entry uncovered some really cool floral items that look like really odd alien palm trees changed my mind. So now it's going to be a sandy base with some tropical overtones. Active camouflage is going to mimic the tops of the trees, and I might put in a beach. But... I might go with a desert palm look, too. Tropical fits in with the faction concept I have going. Have to see how well things work. The most difficult of my plans (other than vehicle markings in three languages, two alien and one English) is how to work in something that makes the phased array appear, but camouflaged at the same time. I'm thinking a masked off grid on top after the camo is done, then lightly hit with a metallic paint, going with either gold or silver. The paint underneath should show, but have a slight sparkly appearance. All the painting starts tonight! As a reminder to myself, I need to post up pictures of: 1. Screenshot of the CAD 2. The floral find

So I painted this one for a friend to use as his goliath fighter in our dnd campaign. It was a quick and easy paint, since he asked me to keep it simple. I like how it turned out considering the printing quallity Also, the blade of his original sword broke of, so I replaced it with a warhammer empire greatsword blade

I've just finished this one, it's a pc friend is using in our dnd campaign. He bought the stl file from hero forge and then had it 3d printed. Originaly he wanted a darker palette, but during the painting I just hade to make some colors pop. In the end he really liked it :D There's also a WIP thread here

So one of my players bought a hero forge 3d model and then printed it. I've based it, primed it and now I'm painting it in the color combination he requested. I have just finished the base layer (the goggles will be gold with green glass) Hope he's happy when it's finished :D

Continuing on from my sculpting thread here, I've begun assembly and painting of my Rottweiler tank. Started sanding and first coat of primer. Ran out of black primer, so stalled myself out. I'm thinking this might be a practice piece for a ReaperCon entry of the same tank.

Figured I'd create a thread to show off the finished cars from my thread in the Sculpting sub forum. Here's the Europa Magnus Hover Wagon: Wasn't really sure how to do the glass area. I am happy with my color choices, but not sure about my highlighting. Here's my delivery van: I didn't even try to sand out the print layer lines, since these are supposed to be quick and dirty, yet practical pieces to practice painting techniques on.

A friend of mine 3D printed a Teen Groot in red PLA and challenged me to paint it. I brought the little guy home and my wife immediately took position of him. After much discussion and promises that I would not "Mess it up" she reluctantly allowed me to paint the little guy. He measures 155 mm tall from ground to tip of head(hair) by 145 mm wide from finger tip to finger tip and 75 mm deep or 6 1/4 inches tall by 5 3/4 inches wide by 3 inches deep. You guys tell me if I messed him up!

Here we have a Hero Forge custom 3d printed figure, designed by yours truly. I've read some other peoples reviews, kinda bashing them. After this, my first experience with HF, I'd have to disagree. Yes, there was some "stepping", really not much though. I sanded it back on the larger areas like the cloak. All in all the time I put into prepping this dude was less time than I normally put into any other fig. The fact that I will not find any stray mold lines as I continue to paint him is very comforting. After priming and base coating I did a bit of wash last night, nothing out of the ordinary happened. In these pics you may notice the stepping at the end of the flail. I think its just primer/sanding, as this was the way other parts looked after prime, before paint. The other parts look just fine after base paint. I didn't spend much attention on the ball, if it ends a bit rippled and it's the only part that is, I think it will look like part of the weapons design.

Custom Legend of Zelda, Breath of the Wild inspired Paint scheme on elf warrior. The model is a 3D printed model and was brought to me by a customer She requested a Legend of Zelda inspired paint scheme based on a photo she provided of her character from the game. I really enjoyed doing this and translating the original art on to the model and I cant wait for a customer to bring me another challenge like this again. As allways if you liked this I post more pictures like this on my FB Page. Facebook.com/TabletopGlory

Since I posted some of my work where I converted certain reaper miniatures into kitsune a while ago, I figured I would post one of the newer kitsune that I've painted recently. I got this miniature from "Everyman Gaming", they have been getting a site called imagine3dminiatures.com to 3d print miniatures for them. This miniature was a bit difficult to paint because I had to clean off a lot of plastic nubs that were leftover from the 3d printing process. I kept finding more even after I primed the miniature. I also had to cut the mini off of its 30mm base and glue it to one of reaper's 1 inch scale bases. However, in the end the mini came out very well! Well, some parts came out a bit messy, like the gold on the shield, and the black wash. Luckily, in real life people won't be able to see the messy black wash that I put on the mini, lol. Painting this mini was a lot of fun, so I'm planning to paint Everyman's nine tailed kitsune miniature soon :D

Hi guys! wanted to let you know that we just launched our first ever Kickstarter campaign, we hope you will be able to join us on making this a reality. The project has tiles and scenery 25-32 mm scale for your roleplaying or wargaming needs, we have a lot of files and we are proud that our tiles are truly modular and give you a lot more flexibility when building your dungeon. we hope you will check the campaign out. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1365144247/axolote-3d-printable-tiles-and-scenery Also visit us on facebbok and twitter /axolotegaming @axolotegaming Thanks!

I painted this commission tonight. The model is from Heroforge and the customer had it custom printed to match her D&D character. The texture of Heroforge models is always a bit bumpy due to the printing process, and I smoothed out what I could with a scraper, brush, and water rinse. it's kind of rough to catch all of it when the material is fragile hard plastic that isn't the easiest to whittle down in some areas, so there are some spots on her face that I'm not entirely happy with. Still, not bad for being able to custom build your character.

Alright, I'm putting this up here because I did in fact make the 3D model for this dragon and 3D printed him myself. I used "Sculpt"ris to design him and add in the details. I'd like to see what people think of the idea of using 3D modeling and 3D printing to make and test out masters of miniatures and 'if' this thing even belongs in the 'sculpting' section of the craft corner because it's not made of green stuff and I did not poke it and prod it with scary obscure molding tools. For a little back story on the character himself, this is one of my older characters named "Roal", his main feature that he's the over pampered spoiled dragon prince. A real lazy brat that roars about being 'fierce' and 'mighty' but due to his size and shape he gets no respect. I will probably have to keep on bugging Reaper in making a gluttonous fat dragon monster for my hero's to fight against in order to take his/her hoard, but until then I'll just use my dragon Roal instead. ((I was playing with the idea of having the players do everything they can to prevent the dragon from walking back too far or it's fat torso will get stuck in a narrow part of the cave, permanently sealing it off or not depending on if they let the dragon live. Anyway, leave a comment. I'd like to hear your opinions about this.