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  1. I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality. What I learned... Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors. After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly. First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do. Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage. My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough. Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest. For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.
  2. We are doing a video tutorial series on how we have been painting figures. The past couple years we have been working out a way for those who are inept (like me) and those who are adept (like Christie) to be able to paint figures fast, and well enough that they look good in person and in a photo. We have made substantial progress incorporating and modifying techniques we have learned from others (many on these forums, classes at reaper-con, etc.) Here is out latest video, step two of our pre-shading process. Feedback and questions always welcome!
  3. So, Our own Wizard most Wild mentioned getting this stuff and finding that it worked for him, so I ordered a bottle of it, as I do a little airbrushing from time to time.... I spent 2 hours or so looking at videos on youtube about how this stuff is used, and decided that the Wolf Demon (77307), that I used for the Hangout Airbrush tutorials last year, would be a good test subject for it, as I was not going to jump straight onto Nathvarr... The first recommendation I followed was to spray the model with Glosscote, to protect the paint underneath. I then, again following a tutorial, I daubed the stuff on with a semi junk brush, and let it dry, I then did another coat, and this is what it looked like after it dried... (Taken at the end of my paint session last night) so tonight will see if it works.... ALSO, in one of the tutorials, the artist was coating his W&N SERIES 7 (!) brush with brush soap before painting this stuff on.... The brush I used was one that I liked to use for painting bases and such, and it is pretty much trash by now, even after rinsing often and an overnight soak in W&N Brush Cleaner & Restorer... RIP>>>>
  4. I need help. I bought an airbrush - Badger Patriot 105. Bought an appropriate compressor, inline moisture trap, paint, cleaning supplies, etc. I set up a dedicated area to use it and contain any over-spray. But there it sits. Unused. Not for a lack of want. But I've certainly been avoiding it. I watch videos, but the more I watch the more I get psyched out. I know I just need to pick it up and put some paint through it, but I can't figure out how to break though. Advice would be appreciated.
  5. Hi everyone, Here is a piece i could almost done completely by airbrush, thanks to the overall simplicity of design and that will bring terror to our Frostgrave games from now on :)
  6. So, at ReaperCon '16 there were some individual pieces of DDS 2 terrain available for purchase. I didn't hear about it until toward the end of the con, so picking were slim. I picked up this piece of the tower. My plan was to paint it up as more terrain for Frostgrave and any other game I could shoehorn it into. I also used it to test out color schemes for my DDS 2 set as I haven't painted it yet; mostly because I've been too lazy to boil the pieces. I also decided to use this piece to practice airbrushing. I've owned a Badger Krome for a couple of years now, but never did much with it. So this entire piece is air brushed. I may go back in and give it a wash for some more depth, but the picture make it look flatter than it really is.
  7. Adam Savage visits a Weta Workshop Model painter who discusses his craft: https://youtu.be/tnBa-3d-70c
  8. Open call for opinions! My trusty Badger Crescendo 175 airbrush of many, many years failed this weekend. It stopped spraying and started blowing paint back through the trigger. A complete disassembly revealed the problem -- the nylon bushing for the needle had somehow come loose and slipped forward into the paint mixing chamber. Further, I can't for the life of me get that darned bushing back out of what is an essentially sealed pocket. I checked the Badger website, and the bushing is a manufacturer-serviceable part only. So shipping to there, and $12 return shipping enclosed, plus the cost of any replacement parts. I'm seriously considering just getting an new airbrush instead. So, anyone have experience w/Badger service/repair? Failing that, what recommendations do you have for a replacement airbrush? Go with the same again, or switch? So you know, I've also used a Paasche VL airbrush for a while before and found it -- fiddly at best and a frustration at worst, compared to the Badger. It's in pieces in my airbrush supplies box, and also in need of a new needle bushing (at $10 apiece). I prefer double-action airbrushes, and I'm considering a switch to a gravity-feed, rather than a siphon-feed. And... Begin!
  9. Hey folks! A newcomer to the forums just made a comment that they did not know what Dullcote was, so after explaining what it was and adding a pic of the can, I thought I would add a link to a discussion on sealers.... Imagine my surprise when I searched the pinned resources to find nothing listed! Now a search of this forum gave me many hits to a lot of different threads, but they were all about a problem, or people asking questions or something other. So I decided to start a thread talking about Sealers. Now I use Dullcote Spray Lacquer from Testors, and have been using it for over 30 years. I am not liable to change any time soon... I like the nice flat coat that it always gives me when I use it. It does have it's drawbacks though. It can hide?, remove?, blur?, your subtle high lights. (Not sure what the right word is, but your high lights can disappear. This has only happened to me once, when I was painting my Behir, and I was not a happy camper. Went back and did them again a little stronger, and didn't have the problem again... Spray sealers can 'Frost' if they are sprayed on in areas of high humidity. This will make you tear your hair out, as your wonderful paint job now looks like it has been out in the cold over night.... I have fixed this at last once by re spraying in a non humid environment, but not something I want to experience again.... When I need to put Decals, or water slide transfers as they are sometimes known, I will use Glosscote on the model before doing the decaling. The reason for this is that the Gloss finish is much smoother, making the decal fit to the model better. (there are other things that I do as well, but this isn't about decaling) I have read that some folks will Glosscote, then Dullcote their gaming pieces, as the Glosscote offers better protection, and the Dullcote takes the shine back off... The only difference in the cans is the cap of the Glosscote is clear, while the Dullcote looks frosted, so I have started writting on the cans with a sharpie so that I am sure which is which. I have some 30 year old Polly S Flat Finish brush on sealer, as well as Testors Aztek Clear Matte Airbrush sealer, but I have used neither as of now... I also have a pot of GW 'Ardcote, that I bought not knowing it is nothing more than a clear gloss sealer. I have used this on gems or critter tongues, things I want shiny, but as it gets applied to my minis after Dullcote, I don't know how it would react to paint. I know that our hosts Reaper make a brush on sealer, but I have no experience with it... So chime in folks with your experiences and brands of sealers that you use! George
  10. Started working on my first Bones dragon project today (it's been a busy December, so a little free time for painting is sort of a Christmas present). This is the first time I've tried doing any shading or gradient sort of thing with an airbrush, mostly in the past I've just used it for priming, base coats and varnish. It's a little patchy in spots but I'm pretty happy with the overall result and it went on quick. Vallejo black primer with Reaper Ruddy Leather/Oiled Leather/Burnt Orange triad on the wings. I'll do the rest with a paintbrush, but it was a nice start.
  11. I have seen folks talking about Badger airbrush primer, and speaking highly of it, but the local Michael's doesn't have Badger paints.... I saw that they had a 2 oz bottle of Testor's Aztek Clear Matte, picked it up for about $5... The bottle has an agitator in it!!! Can hear it rattling around when I shake it... Has anyone used this stuff? Either as an airbrush sealer, Brush on sealer, or as a matte medium? Seems to be my night for asking this type of question.... Thanks George
  12. I'll be getting an airbrush as a Christmas present this year. Woot! I wanted to thank people on this forum for all the tips they have posted around using airbrushes. I haven't watched any of the videos yet but the links in the Airbrush Compendium thread were very helpful! I did have a couple of questions though. Can you use a primer with an airbrush? If so, any particular recommended primer brand and do I need to thin the primer? How much should the primer be thinned - similar to normal paint ie milk like consistency? Also, what should I be thinning the primer with? Can you use a sealer with an airbrush? If so, same questions as above - any particular brand? Do I need to thin the sealer? etc
  13. Just watched a 6 minute tutorial where the painter used an airbrush to paint the bones kobold pack. It is a Tabletop paint job, but there is some stuff here for beginners with an airbrush to see how one can be used in doing minis... George
  14. Hi folks! Recent post about reviving a Paasche airbrush remembered me I have taken the desition to buy a third airbrush even if the wife does not approve I have two Sparmax airbrushes (basically Iwata clones) with all the hardware, basically I am using a dual-action gravity feed 0.35mm needle airbrush, and loving it. But I feel the trigger is a bit rough, and seriously want to drop some money into my next, and last, airbrush. I am eyeing the Paasche Talon TG-3F, among others... I would love an airbrush able to do small, detail work (my control is pretty fine right now but the rough trigger and 0.35mm needle are starting to be a limiter, I think). There is a pretty nice airbrush store in Buenos Aires, their prices double the american dollar amount, but well... So, those of you friends who are already experienced, if you could afford any airbrush in the world, what would you get? And why? And if it was an airbrush of no more than 200-250 USD? (That would probably be around the 600USD mark here btw).
  15. Finally finished this guy! He was stalled by a lack of paints that I needed, but they came in yesterday, and I got busy! Would have liked to do better with the feathers, but after the third re-try, I left well enough alone. My wife calls him a Skexie... WiP Here Pics: Some close ups: The SC75 metals were awesome for his pauldron, and other pieces, and did well for all his clothes... Base is pretty simple, a few Silflor tufts of 'dead' grass, some fine Gray Ballast, and some Fine Turf earth tone to go around the rocks, skulls, and bones... Comments welcome! 8) George
  16. Hey all! Started work on the Vrock: After priming, I airbrushed all the scaled skin with Tamiya Neutral Grey, and part of the wings and leg feathers with GW Scab Red. Not much yet more tomorrow. As always, C&C Welcome! 8) George
  17. So while I'm waiting for Cthulhu to dry I started poking at this guy who I've had for a long long time. Still not totally sure what drew me to this figure but I have always wanted to paint him. Thus far he's been primed white and given a light wash with P3 Flesh Wash mixed with lots of matt medium and water. I was going to try out an Andrea Paint (Flesh) set I was given on him but the paints seem a little... thick... going to see if I can revive them or I'll just go back to the usual stuff.
  18. So after failing to complete Cthulhu last year when I was coloring him with dry pigments, I'm trying again though this time using regular paint (air and regular brush). While working with the pigments I got the flu and... coughing and sneezing while working with super-thin powder is certainly not ideal. And while I was happy with the how he was turning out, after getting some of the wrong pigment on the wrong part of the body, I had a hell of time trying to correct it. While mulling solutions over, our Lord and Master Cthulhu got relegated to the shelf. I will try the pigment approach again in the near future but on something smaller... But I heard his call again! IA! IA! IA! Cthulhu!! I started straight over the pigment (the yellow/tan is still pigment) and have been working on the main body color with an airbrush. Base coat and shade added. More pics and details later. Thanks for looking. Edit: Added pic of wing and head at this stage.
  19. Hey all! Finished the Basin on Thornwart so here he is: (WIP) As always, C&C Welcome! 8) George
  20. I know absolutely nothing about airbrushes, besides how loud they can be. It may be on my Christmas List this year if I can figure out/learn about it first. What are the different types of handles? How can you tell a good one from a bad one? What mechanisms do you need for it? Are there are technical things I should know about compressors? What's the benefit of where the paint goes in (side, top, back or bottom). General advice for anything not asked is welcome. This is for everyone who is airbrush curious.
  21. I friend gave a me a couple of airbrushes I want to use for some figures and I haven't used one since art school some 20 years ago. Even then I only used it for ink. When it comes to diluting paint for the airbrush, the websites and youtube videos I can find all just say "it depends..." but I'd like an idea where to start. So, any ideas on how much I should dilute Vallejo and Reaper acrylic paints?
  22. Hey all! This is my first post here, so... Anyhow, I just painted the wind elemental 02252, using my airbrush only, except for a lite wash and the eyes, nose and mouth, and I am wondering what people think. I was attempting to achieve a 'swirling wind within' type of concept where everything inside the elemental was in constant motion... not sure how well I did, so I am looking for opinions... Any and all comments and ideas gratefully accepted!
  23. Airbrush peeps. It has been awhile since I have used my airbrush. I used it last night after a long break. My paint was hit too wet. Remind me, what am I doing that causes this. It should be hitting and dry almost at the same time. Definitely not glistening wet.
  24. Is one better than another? Wanna get something so I can easily clean the gun out once I get it running.
  25. My husband has expressed an interest in air brushing as a way to get into this mini painting thing. He has arthritis in his hands so isn't able to hold a paint brush for long. I'm thinking of the set. Thoughts? Also, I've never held an air brush before so have no idea how difficult it would be for him to hold and use one for any amount of time. I would love to enjoy yet another hobby with my sweetie but if it'll hurt him...well that would suck.
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