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  1. Here's my take on the bugbear. This is my first real re-basing attempt. In the past, I have done some really minor basing onto square tiles, but I spent quite a bit more time on this one. I cut off most of the broccoli base, and glued him to a Proxie Model circular base. I used some modeling paste to fill in the base, and then various ballasts for texture. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, although I learned a lot for future attempts; most notably, base a few models at the same time, should speed the process up quite a bit. This is also the first time I have tried dark lining. I saw how effective Buglips uses it in his WIP thread, so I decided to give it a try. I am undecided whether I like it or not. I used Reaper MSP Brown Liner. Very little of it actually made it through to the final product, but you can see it in a few areas. I found the base skin layer took quite a bit longer, as extra coats were required to cover up the liner that slopped over where it shouldn't. My metallics still suck. I need to figure out a method to improve them as I have yet to be very happy with any of the weapons I've done. I get a bit lost trying to figure out where to highlight on a weapon like this guy's spiked club. I've got the Bones minotaur in progress now, hopefully I can get him done before the Bones invasion lands. C&C welcome!
  2. In this thread, Reaperbryan mentioned that he was having trouble getting detail when photographing the translucent Bones figures. I made some suggestions there, but I decided to do a few experiments, and this thread is the result. Principles: Transparent and translucent subjects are a bit tricky to photograph. There's an old adage* in photography that, "Light reveals; shadows define". Translucents under even light have almost no shadows, so there is no definition and thus no detail. In many ways this is similar to painting OSL or NMM. You need to put light where you need it for highlights without killing the shadows that provide the shapes you're trying to show. Now, not being Reaper meeple, I don't have any of the Reaper Bones Translucents to shoot, so I decided to make do with a mostly unpainted D&D mini that I had around. For reference, this seems to have been washed with a couple of colors, which does enhance the appearance of the figure. The only post processing is cropping to remove dead space and an automatic lens correction to correct optical aberrations. Here are the results: D&D Miniatures Caller in Darkness Technique: 1) Backdrop: A sheet of white seamless paper. In this case, it was an offcut from a full roll of seamless (like this), but it would have worked just fine with any white paper. 2) Fill light: Translucent and transparent subjects usually work well when backlit. In this case, I used a speedlight (Lumopro LP-160, if you care) aimed at the backdrop and snooted (black craft foam cylinder attached to the light) to keep most direct light off of the figures. The backlight shows the inherent colors of the figure well. The light was at 1/16 power, about 18" from the backdrop behind the figure, and camera right approximately level with the figure. 3) Key light: To get shape and detail, I added a second light pointed directly at the figure. This light was another LP-160, also at 1/16 power, about 9" from the figure, shooting through a Lumiquest LQ-III mini-softbox. (Much the same light could have been obtained by using translucent paper in front of the light, but the softbox makes things easy.) I tried several different positions, but ended up preferring camera left, level with the table, about midway between camera and subject. Note that different figures might look best with different key light positions. You would probably do well to move the key around to see what looks best for the figure you're shooting. Note that none of the positions I chose were similar to the position of a pop-up flash. Pop-ups are almost directly on-axis with the lens, which results in very flat lighting, which is exactly the opposite of what we need. 4) Room light: I chose an aperture and shutter speed that killed the ambient completely. When the speedlights were not shooting, I got a nearly completely black frame even though there was standard dining room light directly over the subjects. This makes it easy to work and easy to control the lights that will actually be seen. For reference, I was shooting at ISO 400, 1/250 second, at F/16-ish after sunset. Cheaper version: If you don't have a camera that can shoot fully manual and a suite of photographic lighting equipment, you can get much the same results with a point-and-shoot camera and a couple of desklamps. In that case, you'll probably want to shoot in a mostly dark room, set the lights in about the same configuration I used here, and use a much longer exposure. I chose to use a tripod here, though it really only gained me a consistent camera position, because the flash duration is so short. When shooting with much dimmer continuous lights (and trust me, all continuous lights are much dimmer than strobes), you will need to stabilize your camera, probably with a tripod. But definitely do not use a lightbox with very even lighting, or you'll get flat photos that don't show any detail. Finally, here are a couple of BTS (Behind The Scenes) shots to help illustrate what I was using. You can see the two speedlights to left and right and the tripod in front of the table. The first was shot with the same settings as the figures: The second shot shows the room with the camera adjusted to show the ambient light and the strobes turned off. (If the strobes were on, the center of the image would be completely blown out.) Here you can see the lights on either side of the figure and the tripod (sans camera) near the edge of the table at left: * FWIW, I read it first from Rick Sammon, who might have even said it first. But he's been saying it for a long time, so it's now an old adage.
  3. This is my first attempt at painting a Bones figure. I admit that I chickened out and did a light spray of white primer on the model before painting. Painting this figure has been a pleasure (especially with the light weight). I haven't noticed any drop off in quality, difficulty of painting, or and special care that I needed to engage...as compared to a metal Reaper model. I like using trolls in and around swamp terrain so I painted him with that motif, and I took the time to base him properly before posting pics this time. :) DISCLAIMER: The right hand (over his head) IS in fact a more putrid/different color than the rest of the miniature. This particular troll recently had a run in with a group of adventurers and it cost him his hand, but he survived and is currently regenerating his limb. I also painted the two large pods on his back as though he's carrying a couple of his babies around after having mated a few weeks back.
  4. While I still wait for my kickstarter Bones to arrive, I got a chance to pick up a free Bones ghost at a paint-and-take at MAG-con last weekend. I was inspired to do a greenish color scheme by Paizo/Wizkid's Festering Spirit. I was only able to get as far as base-coating him with a yellow-green mix at the con before I had to rush off to GM my assigned slots. I had real problems with the paint sticking to the mini, probably as a result of not having a chance to wash it prior to painting. After the con, I took him home and gave him a bit of a wash, followed by a second base-coat of darker green. The hands and face got a white base-coat to help the wash coat stick later, while the tombstone got metallic silver, as I was broke and lazy and it was the closest I had to a stone grey. This was followed by a black ink wash coat for the whole thing, then a gloss sealer. I find this sealer generally tends to leave things too shiny, but in this case gave him a nice sickly, oily sheen. Some starting difficulties aside, It was wonderful to work with a Bones mini for the first time, and I look forward to many more one my kickstarter reward gets here.
  5. So I just got my Reaper Bones Vampire-level in the mail maybe two hours ago, and I wanted to ask some questions to members who have perhaps worked with this plastic before. My modeling experience is mainly Games-Workshop. I guess the most urgent question I have to ask is this: A large portion of the miniatures that I received (25% +/-) are kind of warped; I know this plastic is a soft medium, and all that good stuff, so I wanted to know how to bend things back into place, and have them become more rigid. Should I immerse them in hot water, bend them, then immerse them in cold water, or what? I just want the swords, staves, and bases to not be so crooked. Secondly; for painting these, I assume the best method is merely to prime them and paint them like any other miniature, yes? My primary concern is the warping; a lot of the swords/staves are way off, and I have one model that's totally borked (some robotic monkey thing I'll never use, so I'm not going to bother filing a replacement claim) Thanks in advance!
  6. The more I look at Nethyrmaul, the more the composition of the figure impresses me. https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/previews/sku-down/77190 The whole structure, down to the curl of the tail, is a work of art in itself. In the store photo it looks reminiscent of Stephen Hickman's book covers, of something Art Nouveau. There are a lot of minis that do the job, that serve as placeholders for characters or monsters or what have you. Julie Guthrie's sculpture holds together as an interesting artwork in its own right.
  7. As with many, I've recently fallen off the wagon after roughly 15 years of ignoring miniature painting, due mostly to the Bones Kickstarter, but also due to my gaming group's renewed interest in Warhammer Quest. Anyway, I've just started to take pictures, my picture rig is literally a few pieces of plasticard, my painting light, my phone's camera, and a couple of filters on photobucket. I've tried not to alter things too much electronically, but somethings definitely need "restored" when using a phone for pictures... First up, one of my first NMM attempts (just the silver armor and sword, not the gold stuff) - the figure is a lieutenant from Descent:RtL (FFG): I haven't done much basing work since I've been back at the hobby, as almost all my minis receive heavy use as game pieces. I might go back and base them later, the Micro Arts stuff is pretty cool, I got a couple dozen of those for my upcoming Bones Vampire package. There's also a small blemish on the bottom of his cloak (back). It's a chip courtesy of one of my less careful friends. I dulled it a bit in post but you can still see it's there. C+C appreciated.
  8. Reaperbryan posted this on another thread, but I thought it might get buried and hard to find.
  9. Here is one of three of my orcs that I am working on. Hello, Gorgeous! I'm thinking on the next one I'll paint the skin a lighter grey and the last one will be a lighter grey but with a touch of green.
  10. So I was looking at what all came with my pledge, again, and some of the other add ons, and a thought came to me. Will some of the sets e available in the store the way they are in the kickstarter? I'm sure some like 'here be dragons' will of course be separate, but what of the golems or the townsfolk sets?
  11. http://www.kickstart...n-of-gaming-min This is for questions, comments, excitement, clarification, and general discussion.
  12. Alright, since people in other topics have been mildly interested, figured I might as well post up the finished figure. I've been trying to write a number of "How-I-Paint" articles for Cool Mini or Not, which morphed into making YouTube videos of the entire painting process. So, should you wish, you can follow my entire paint job ( ). Below you see Elliwyn Heatherlark, Gnome. As a metal figure, I used her as a stand-in for the Kickstarter Bones' version of her. I limited myself to the first paint set that was offered up as an add-on, so there were only 12 paints for me to choose, resulting in a simple paint scheme. The camo backpack is possibly a little out of place, but I've got plans to pair her with Sara Blitzer, IMEF Marine, as a un-stasised (is that a word?) soldier in a future world-in-ruins type setting, which explains where she gets the backpack. Sadly, I've been very slow in painting, so it's taken two months painting off and on again to get her completed.
  13. Lepordie


    Hi I'm looking forward to my KS Bones, they are going to be great for my Pathfinder campaign with my kids. Reviewing the KS (still amazed as to how many coming), can anyone recommend a decent easy skirmish game I can run for the kids 6&8 using the KS bones, probably focused on Pirates? Thanks
  14. The past couple of years, the folks at Comicpalooza here in Houston have been trying to get me to bring my dungeon crawl over for their con. Unfortunately, it usually falls around the last weekend of May, which meant that it has usually followed ReaperCon by just a few scant days. Now, Terri is fairly supportive of my gaming, but even I'm not dumb enough to try back-to-back weekends like that. This year, however, ReaperCon is a month earlier, so I agreed to run the crawl at Comicpalooza. It falls over Memorial Day weekend. I'll be running the crawl 3 slots on Saturday (bascially all day long) and 2 slots on Sunday. Since I'm spanning both days, I'll be using my usual format of awarding prizes to the top players from each table, but also keeping track of the overall top scores, convention-long, on a leader-board at the table. The top 3 scores from the entire con will receive additional prizes! So, if you are local, or even just mostly-local, you might want to come check the event (and the con) out. If I get lucky enough to get my Bones shipment before it gets too close to the con, I might even have Kaladrax out on the table, painted. Regardless of whether or not Kaladrax makes it in time, I will still have over 100 painted Reaper miniatures in use on a massive 4'x8' board constructed by yours truly from Hirst Arts casts, and I can guarantee that some of those figures will be painted Bones from the KS. See you there! ~v
  15. I'm calling it done...
  16. Since I have almost a year of collecting, modding and painting Bones, I thought I might share my observations. I've been working with pewter and plastic miniatures since 1986, so I have some experience to compare the Bones to. I first picked up a Bones Cave Troll at the paint-n-take at Origins 2012. I have since bought and painted around twenty different models. To start out, the price is phenomenal; I haven't been able to buy miniatures so cheap since the 80's. Secondly, the plastic material (a form of PVC, I think) takes detail very well. It rivals the single piece models GW puts out in polystyrene. It is very flexible, which is both good and bad. Good in that you can bend parts out of the way while cleaning and painting the models; bad in that trying to clean the mold lines off some of the thinner parts like trying to shave a cooked spaghetti noodle (I'm looking at you, Zombies). I recommend a sharp, new blade for trimming any flash (not seen any yet) or mold lines. Go buy a package of new blades; you will be much happier than if you try to use an old dull blade. Also if the model is not positioned correctly for curing when hot out of the injection mold, the piece will be deformed. This is easily remedied by a quick dunk is near-boiling water and then repositioning the model and holding it in the desired position until it sets. This can be hastened by a dunk in cold water; I haven't had a chance to talk with my materials engineer friends to see if it is better to let the plastic cool slowly. A word of caution on the very thin parts, like sword blades: repeated bending will cause paint to crack and flake off. This happened with another model form Origins, Garrick the Bold. I had painted him at Origins using my usual technique of painting metal areas black and the dry-brushing silver. His sword was bent, and I kept trying to over-bend it the other way to get it to straighten out. At some point (after I got home from the con) the paint cracked and started to flake off. So the take-away from this is to fix any misaligned parts before you paint them. This brings me to the next part, modding. On a Bugbear Warrior model the mace was badly bent, and the shaft of the weapon seemed very flimsy. I cut the shaft from the mace and drilled out the handle and head with a pin vise drill, and replaced the shaft with a metal rod. As expected, drilling was very easy and quick; the only issue I had with the drilling is that you could not re-direct the drill once you started by simply torquing the drill; this merely deforms the plastic and results in a crooked hole! Cutting was of course very easy. I used superglue to reassemble the mace. On the topic of glues, PVA (Elmer's in the USA) is not a good adhesive for Bones. I have used it with some success to glue larger models to a base, but smaller figures pop right off with minimal force. Superglue and superglue gel seem to work well. I haven't tried epoxy yet. Now painting; to start, you don't need to primer the models, but you do need to clean them before painting. I cannot stress this enough, you MUST clean the models before painting! Being a cantankerous old war gamer, I usually don't take the time to wash my figures before applying primer. If you don't clean the Reaper Bones first, the paint will not adhere and will pool up like water on oil, which is exactly what I think is happening. The release agent applied to the steel molds is transferred to the miniatures, and oil and acrylic polymers don't mix. So wash dem Bones! I use warm, soapy water and an old tooth brush. Make sure the figures are dry before painting. I use acrylic paints, a mix of left over Ral Partha, GW and Reaper. You must not thin the paint before applying it to the bare Bones (lol), or it will not properly adhere. I find the Reaper HD paints work very well for blocking in color. I also have an assortment of paints made for Lexan, sold for painting RC car bodies. The paint is expensive ($5 a bottle), but is very thin and pigment dense. It goes on kinda splotchy, but evens out as it cures. It adheres very well to plastic and is very flexible when dry. I use this Lexan paint for laying down the first coat on very thin and flexible parts, like weapon blades and bow shafts. It is an acrylic paint in an alcohol carrier, so once cured it can be treated like any other acrylic. Once you have your initial layer of paint down over the entire surface of the model, you proceed with shading and highlighting as normal; no special steps are needed after coating the plastic. I think that's it. I hope some have found this post useful. Your mileage may vary.
  17. I haven't seen a thread like this here, so to kill the impatience before the actual minis arrive: What are your plans for converting particular KS Bones miniatures or using them straight in different games? I'm especially interested in the Vampire set. Give me your inspiration! :> Please put your list in 1 post and update it instead of adding more posts, to avoid cluttering the thread! My current list: rats - converted into Malifaux rats for Hamelin Chronoscope gunmen - Kaeris' Gunmen or something Guild (Malifaux) Zombie from Undead Horde or George the Zombie - converted into Essence of Power (Malifaux) We Be Goblins! (Pathfinder) - converted into random Gremlins? (Malifaux) Oxidation beast - some Exrah drone (Infninity) Rosie the Chronotechnician - Moderator hacker/Clockmaker (Infinity) Also: a full Magic Realm hero mini set, Wiz-War wizard set?, Descent townsfolk/bosses and probably any fantasy skirmish game for the next 5 years :)
  18. Last week I began my first forays into miniature painting. I purchased a metal Pathfinder Amiri and proceeded to spend the following hours alternating between happiness at the fun of painting cool things and cursing at the difficulty of trying to apply paint to something so ridiculously tiny. I knew that miniature painting would be difficult in theory, but I didn't appreciate how much skill there is involved until I got to experience the joy of trying to reach a tiny area of the figure without accidentally bumping the paint-leaden brush against adjacent edge/surfaces. She's not a great (or even good) paint job, but I'm still pretty proud of her. =D I am pleased to have a painted mini on the table at my Pathfinder games. I was previously using a cardboard pathfinder pawn. After I finished Amiri I went back to the game shop and walked out with a bag full of bones with aspirations of having a monster army. Toward the end my speed was improving by quite a bit. I managed to shave a couple hours off my time spent on each figure. :-) I made the mistake of priming these guys with the same P3 primer I used on Amiri (it worked beautifully on the metal mini) and it made the surface of the plastic figures tacky. After browsing these forums I learned that you're supposed to just paint right on the bones. Oops! I purchased two of these dragons. The next one is going to be blue! I used . I used a hot needle to poke holes in the bow that touches his leg and where he's grabbing the string. Any critiques or advice is much appreciated. Thanks for looking. I have a new bag full of Bones that's waiting to be painted. The army grows =D ---------------------------------------- 3/4/12: Finished the orc trio. I tried photographing against a medium tone ground instead of black. Hopefully they're a bit clearer. 3/21/12: Blue dragon and elf choking himself. The photos on this are a little bit more blurry. I took them with a relatively sunny winter day's light coming through the window, but I don't think it photographed as well as when I took it on the brown cardboard box in my basement with bright lights on. Using silver highlights for the blue dragon's scales was not the greatest idea ever. They look more like highlights in person, but they're definitely not as great as the more subtle copper on the red. I was going to pick up 3 more dragons to get a green, white, and black dragon in my mini arsenal, but with the kickstarter minis set to hit stores in a few months, I'd like to get some different sculpts to play with =3 When I looked at the blister pack of the elven archer in the store I thought it was a lady elf. Ooops! I picked up a Pathfinder Sheilu mini after I realized my mistake. I'm sure that this guy will get some use on the table someday, even if it's only as a stand-in for someone who forgot to bring a figure.
  19. After the disaster of trying to order reaper l2p kits from amazon (me yelling at a vendor after 3 weeks of nothing being shipped) I picked up a couple bones to play with to pass the time I have run into a problem. I ordered a vampire kit for eventual use in pathfinder and using the standard 1" chessix's maps, after debrocoli'ing the cave troll I found to my horror the only way to get (him?) on a 1" base is bending him bolegged which Doesn't look good at all imo. I have a few 1" square swamp tiles like these and a handfull of 1" circles that just seem tiny compared to the stances the bones mini's use. anyway thoughts/advice?
  20. forgive me if this has already been asked somewhere else but would it be possible to pickup our KS bones stuff at reapercon? It would save reaper cash and we could get our stuff... Not sure how much trouble it is or if it is worth it to reaper but I would be interested... Max
  21. Not near as happy with this one. Had some damage on the cloak there, and painting black is extremely difficult. Wasn't happy with the base either, but I do like the red on the cloak.
  22. By way of introduction I've been wargaming for a while but nowadays I don't have too much time gaming, so I've set myself the task of improving my painting ability. I ordered the learn to paint kits but while waiting I started on the Bones Werewolf, Basecoated below. I didn't prime this guy, just washed & scrubbed before basecoating. This is my first attempt to go beyond tabletop so C&C definitely welcome I've finished shading for now, the Fur was lighter but I decided to tone it back a bit, still have teeth & claws to complete and of course the base.
  23. This is my third bones to start painting, but my first one to post. A couple of more will be coming later. I was so excited to paint this one that I didn't do any prep work, next time I'll be more diligent.
  24. MonkeySloth's recent posting about more accurately portraying rocks in miniature painting got me thinking about this fellow. I took a photo of a decorative rock pile in my yard and have opted to try and work some of what I see in these rocks into the painting of this fellow. I've already done some customization to this sculpt as you can see. Out of the box, I heated this guy in boiling water, and then hyper-flexed his wings to where they were almost touching before dousing him in cold water. Over a period of 3-4 hours, his wings moved into the position you see here, which is the position portrayed in the online store. I used an exacto blade to cut a 45-degree angle into his left arm so I could reglue it into the position you see. It was so clean, I don't even need to green stuff the joint. I hated the left 'thumb' of the sculpt and opted to cut it away and use a little green stuff to make a new one. For fun, I decided to add a goblin head to his closed right hand, and used some green stuff to do some dirty goblin hair out the top of the fist. My overall vision for him is that he's a guardian gargoyle left behind from a long forgotten civilization, or maybe oathsworn to a tribe of druids.
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