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Found 2879 results

  1. Another tabletop lady - tried stronger source lighting and focused on trying to smoothly blend the very pale skin. Also managed to make a reasonable base with the greenstuff roller this time - so overall happy to try these things out on her, including the flowers.
  2. Well, I'm back in lockdown. Full, nothing open, don't leave your house, furloughed lockdown. Fortunately, Reaper have started the Reaper Challenge League, which coincides nicely with me having a lot of extra painting time. I'm already in a duo and trio for the league with @Thoramel, @Pochiand @Evilhalfling, but the Fire or Ice category really intrigued me. I love doing fire dragons so I almost started on Narthrax, but then I remembered that I've got a Roc from Bones 4 that I'd always wanted to do as a phoenix. So why not kill two birds with one stone(or roc)? I'd forgotten just how big this 'mini' was that's a 1cm grid on the cutting mat. Nevertheless, I started under the watchful eye of my painting assistant First up, a decent coat of Pure Black Onto the horror, picking out the details with Garnet Red. This took forever, and almost broke one of my old brushes. I started brightening the feathers with Brilliant Red, you can see how much difference it makes in the lower wing. ....and both upper wings are highlighted. All I have to do now is apply the red to the undersides of the wings, body and head of the birdie. Shouldn't take too long! I may have started on Narthrax too.... there's only so much red one person can take! Thanks for looking everyone. It's been a bit of a slog so far, but it should get easier from now on.
  3. Hi everyone. Got a couple more demons for you today. This is a pair of Bones Fly Demons for use as Chasme in D&D. These guys could also serve double duty as Giant Flies for Rangers of Shadow Deep. More Below the Spoiler: Feel free to check out more of my demons and devils in my Blood War project HERE. If anyone has any leads on other interesting giant fly minis please share them, as I've been finding it difficult to find good models for RoSD. Also, how do you paint insect wings? They're such a unique feature in the animal kingdom and I'd love to see how you go about it?
  4. My secret Sophie is winging its way to its recipient as I write this and may even arrive before the new year! I have been practicing a technique shown to me by @Mocha and have produced. Number of these this year so its only fitting that my SS be one of them. The present is actually a 6 sided die from dice jail for too many 1's so for its trouble it has been incarcerated in greenstuff wrapping paper! I modified Rocky a little bit to flatten his wings to more of a waiting position. As for the story, Rocky has been asked to wait for his present and he intends to make sure it does not get away! I enjoyed making the little bow much more than I should have but it was a lot of fun. The Rocky series is great. The eyes are just large enough to get some real detail into without overwhelming the mini and ever part of the mini is accessible to paint! I hope his recipient likes him and that he reminds everyone that good things will come with a little bit of patience
  5. Hi all. Another entry in my winter-themed minis. This guy was intended to serve as the BBEG in my Frostrun campaign. Kriger was the descendant of a greedy half-giant king who's line had been cursed to undeath. Kriger sought to lead an army of Draugr and vikings to reclaim his family throne. This "chaos warrior" model from Bones 4 was perfect. More Below the Spoiler: I really like how this guy turned out. He was one of those minis where I really pushed myself and tried some different things. I think it shows. Hopefully I'll get to continue his story, and return to my Frostrun game. Maybe by then I'll have found some suitable viking-esque warriors to accompany him. For more of my winter minis, check out my Frostrun Project HERE.
  6. Hi there. I've got a boney baddie for you all today. I was disappointed by the official mini offerings for a Skull Lord (a skeletal warrior with 3 heads), and it seemed like the perfect candidate for a bit of conversion. A few citadel skulls later and... For the observant viewer, you'll notice the Skeletal Champion's original head at the bottom of the bone pile. His skull was a bit too bulky compared to the citadel skulls and the sculpt didn't really leave enough room for three heads so I had to cut away some of the shoulder armor. All said, this was a pretty simple conversion and will make for a fun fight in the future. To see more of my winter-themed minis, check out my Frostrun Project HERE.
  7. Hello again! I'm back with an assortment of Bones that are serving as my Rangers of Shadow Deep solo party. Decided I wanted a classic fantasy look, but didn't want to fall into the cliched green cloak look. With that stipulation, I settled on a more autumnal color palette, and tried to keep this aesthetic across the entire party, without anyone looking like they were wearing matching uniforms. I'm pretty pleased with the results and I tried to push myself with each mini. What do you think? More Photos and Thoughts Beneath the Spoiler: I have only played a few scenarios of Rangers of Shadow Deep, and I'm honestly not sold on the whole solo-game thing. But if the game has done anything for me, it has given me motivation to paint more and has given purpose to some of the things I already have painted. I already ordered some extra gnolls and ghouls to meet the required numbers and will likely be showing off some monsters soon. Which character do you like best? What games have motivated you to paint those piles of shame? Feel free to share your own photos!
  8. Hello all. Today I wanted to show off my collection of cultists that I painted up a year ago. Like others on this site, I debated what colors to paint my cultists for awhile, but I ultimately settled on a blue-black and red scheme. I choose to highlight the black with blue just to add more color, though looking back I wish I had just gone with neutral black, or a different color entirely. But they still work. I also tried out my new dark elf skin triad on these fellas. Though they aren't necessarily meant to represent Drow in my games, I figured it made them mysterious and it wouldn't really matter if they were perfect representations. I wanted the cultists to be adaptable and reusable for any cult situation in my games. More Photos and Thoughts Below the Spoiler: What do you think? What's your favorite cultist color scheme? What nefarious purpose do they serve?
  9. I painted up another ogre matriarch. she is so fun! This is Daisy, aka the Blonde Bombshell!
  10. Hello all! It's been a little bit since I posted anything. With the weather getting colder, I felt inspired to share some old winter-themed minis I painted up nearly two years ago when I first started painting. Though the paintjobs aren't anything to write home about, they're still interesting models, and I like looking back on where I started. Also, I'm slowly posting all my old bones minis so it was bound to happen sooner or later. More photos and thoughts below the spoiler: It's always fun looking back on old paintjobs and seeing how far you've come. Though it's also intimidating to share some of these rougher early works with the rest of you. I hope you found some entertainment looking back on these with me. I'm looking forward to getting the new Yeti set in Bones 5 and seeing how they stand up to these classics. Feel free to share some of your favorite early pieces! For more recent winter-themed minis, check out my Frostrun Project Here.
  11. 2020 has-been rough on everyone but some people have had it rougher than others. A friend of mine is disabled and has had a really hard time just trying to keep basic necessities done. I thought I would send her a little friend who's got simpler an cuter problems. Purple is her favorite color. He goes out in the mail on Monday Hope you like him too...
  12. Got this guy in my Bones Paint & Take Home Survival Kit earlier this year. He was done with lots of sloppy washes and dry brushing. I put flock on its exposed twigs, for decency's sake.
  13. Ok, this may have been asked before and I have a terrible memory and I could not find a straight answer in the FAQ. The white material vs the slightly less white material (not to be confused with bones black) I have a what is essentially a bucket of bones miniatures from all 4 kickstarters. Im a slow painter. I decided to pick a few out to paint. I painted Almaran the gold and noticed his head was deformed. replaced it Next I tried Durok the dwarf ranger and I noticed his right side did not mold correctly. Nothing I could do about it but its fine not complaining. Ive noticed most of my bones 4 that had the new grey material have not had these sort of issues. I would show pics but I dont wanna... My question is has this issue been fixed for the older bones miniatures, Are they being cast in this new grey material?
  14. I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here. Bones - Frequently Asked Questions (this document) Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.) Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (primer, primer alternatives, paint durability) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bones Miniatures: Frequently Asked Questions What are Bones Miniatures? The Bones material is a polymer plastic. It is light-weight and slightly flexible, and is very durable. You can paint a Bones figure straight out of the package, and that paint job will also be pretty durable. Bones figures are as detailed as metal figures, for a much lower cost. Bones miniatures are produced with integral (built-in) bases, but it is easy to cut the miniature off of the base if you prefer to put it on something else. It is also easy to cut the figures apart to convert them into different poses or change weapons. What is the bare minimum I need to know to start painting my Bones right now! If you want background on why these are the recommendations or what other alternatives might also work, read the rest of this document, Painting Bones Miniatures: Preparation and Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference. Remove Mould Lines Remove by slicing just under the mould lines with a hobby knife, in a similar motion to paring vegetable or hand-sharpening a pencil. Files work best if you file in one direction, then remove burrs by filing in the opposite direction. Reshape Bent Parts Dip the misshapen piece in boiling water for a minute or two, remove and move into desired position, then immediately hold in ice water for a few minutes. NOTE: Read additional information in this document for safety recommendations! What Glue to Use Superglue aka cyanoacrylate works best to glue Bones to itself or other materials. What Putty to Use All major brands of putty tested work with bones. (Green Stuff, Milliput, etc.) What Works as a Paint Stripper Soak figure in Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Best Primer None. Start with a first coat of undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint, then paint as normal from there. This is the best choice for durability and a good painting surface. Other acrylic paints that work with miniatures should have similar results. Paint can be applied with a brush or airbrush (diluted paint seems to work with an airbrush.) Best Primer if You Want to Prime Anyway Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer in black or white, or Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium (also brush-on.) Best Spray Primer Many aerosol primers will not cure completely on Bones. Reaper forum members have reported good results with the Army Painter sprays. How to Do a Wash Directly on Bones Thin your wash with one of the following mediums and just a small amount of water if necessary: Master Series Brush-On Sealer, Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium, Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer. Can you really paint Bones miniatures straight out of the package? Absolutely! However, if you’ve ever painted metal, resin or plastic figures in the past, you may notice some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves. Paint diluted with water (even just a drop or two for a thinned base coat) may bead up and pull away from crevices. The more water you add to the paint, the more you’ll notice this effect, so water-thinned washes used directly on the Bones material don’t really work. That first coat of paint may also take a little longer to dry. Most people find that the paint applies a little better if you first wash the figure. Just scrub it with a little dish soap and a toothbrush and allow it to dry before you start to paint. Another alternative is to apply a primer or another surface preparation that works with the Bones material as the first coat. Once you get that first coat on, you can use highly thinned paint in subsequent layers and it should behave pretty much the same as on any other figure. For more information, methods to use thinned paint directly on the Bones surface, tips for quicker drying and a list of primers that do (or don’t) work with Bones, please see the Craft document Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference. What kinds of paint work on Bones Miniatures? The Bones material is designed to work with Reaper’s Master Series and Master Series HD lines of paint. Internal testing and feedback from customers suggests that Bones also works well with the other major miniature paint lines, including Reaper’s discontinued Pro Paints, Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Color, Privateer Press’ P3 Paints, and Games Workshop. Artists’ acrylic paint are also likely to work on Bones. However, please note that Reaper does not offer any guarantee or assurance that the Bones miniatures will work with any particular paint other than Master Series and Master Series HD. You are advised to test your preferred paint on a Bones figure to decide for yourself how well it works. If your paint does not work well on bare Bones, you can prepare the surface with a coat of Master Series paint and it will likely work over that. How do I remove the mould lines from a Bones figure? Like all miniatures, Bones figures have small mould lines as a result of the manufacturing process. You do not need to remove these to paint or use a Bones, but many people prefer to remove them for aesthetic reasons. You can remove these with the same tools you would use on a metal figure – hobby knife, files, and/or sandpaper. However, you may find that you need to use these materials in a slightly different way. Hobby knives work best if you slice under and along the mould line in a paring motion rather than scraping them along the mould line. With files and sandpaper, file in one direction perpendicular to the mould line. If you find you have burrs of material remaining, lightly file those off moving the tool in the opposite direction. How Durable is the Bones Material? Bones figures are remarkably durable, and not just in comparison to metal and resin figures. People have dropped Bones from a height of one storey, ground them underfoot, driven over them with a car, carried them loose in backpacks and pockets, and they’ve sustained no damage. The light weight of the material means drops and falls hit with much less mass behind them. The give of the material means it’s much better able to absorb impact, where a brittle material like resin will likely break. They’re not indestructible, but they can take an impressive amount of damage. We had several Bones figures out at the PAX Prime 2012 convention for people to examine and abuse. We bounced them off the floor, and invited dozens of people to step on them. One of the small kobolds with narrow diameter legs did break at one ankle on the third day. Another figure suffered a very small area of damage due to the friction generated by someone’s shoe grinding it across the floor. If Bones are so durable, is it hard to cut them up for conversions? What glue should I use? The Bones material cuts easily with a sharp hobby knife. Cuts have smooth edges and do not deform surrounding material as often happens with metal. So it is an easy matter to swap a head from one figure to another, or cut off an arm and reposition it slightly so you can customize individual figures within a unit. All it takes to glue them back together is regular superglue (cyanoacrylate). You can also use superglue to adhere Bones to metal or wood. Green Stuff and other two-part putties work well if you need to fill gaps or sculpt on additional details. Pinning is a good idea when attaching metal parts to a Bones miniature, as the added weight of the metal will otherwise make the join weaker. The plastic parts are quite stable when glued together, but pinning doesn’t hurt in plastic-to-plastic conversions, either. How durable is a painted Bones figure, though? Bones miniatures painted with Master Series and Master Series HD paint are surprisingly durable. You probably don’t want to grind one underfoot or drive over it with your car, but you’ll be amazed at what they can handle. Figures are unlikely to experience notable damage to the paint from regular handling, bumping against each other on the table, or getting knocked over, even when playing with the most ham-handed of players. My painted test figures survived being tossed unsecured in a plastic box with a bunch of unpainted Bones that was carried around two conventions (PAX Prime and Gen Con 2012). They were handled by hundreds of people and literally and repeatedly thrown onto tables from heights of several feet. They have some dings and chips, but the bulk of the paint jobs survived. The paint on these figures had not been coated with any sort of protective sealer. The durability of other brands of paint may vary. I have not done the same sort of extensive testing with other brands of paint. In my limited testing of how well other brands of paint apply to bare Bones, I did notice that Vallejo Model Color paints seemed to rub off the figure pretty easily. I did not notice that happening with the other brands I tested. (P3, Vallejo Game Color, Pro Paint, Adikolor.) Can you remove unwanted paint from a Bones figure? Sometimes painting a figure doesn’t go exactly as planned. If you would like to strip the paint from a Bones figure so you can start from scratch to paint it another way, just drop it into a dish of Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush and it is ready to paint again. Some paint colours may leave a stain on the Bones material, but should not leave any texture or affect subsequent layers of paint. Simple Green in an eco-friendly cleaner sold in most hardware stores and some grocery stores. Brake fluid also works, though is a much more toxic material. Are Bones figures less detailed than their metal counterparts? Bones figures are bright white, which makes them hard to photograph. A number of people who have lacked confidence in the product quality based on the photographs in the online store have been pleasantly surprised by them once they can look at one in person. However, there are also a few people who feel the quality of the Bones is a little less than that of their metal counterparts. When available, Reaper’s online store includes photographs of painted versions of the figures that may give you a better idea, but looking at Bones yourself in person is really the only way to find out how you feel about them. I compared one of the smaller Bones, Dwarf Warrior 77011, against his counterpart, Fulumbar 14146, under magnification. The only real difference I noted between the two was that the texture of the chainmail loin cloth and the laces on the gloves were a tiny bit shallower on the Bones figure. You can see a comparison of a Bones and metal figure of the same sculpt painted identically in this thread on the Reaper forums: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47477-bathalian-bones-vs-metal-challenge/ Do Bones have sharp edges on weapons? Weapons and the like on Bones figures are cast at pretty much the same thickness as similar parts on Reaper’s metal figures. However, since Bones is a flexible plastic material, you will never be able to shave or file down an edge or a point to the same sharpness that you can achieve with a metal figure. Are the photographs of Bones figures in the online store and catalogue the same figures as the ones for sale? The online Reaper store and catalogue photographs of Bones miniatures are taken of production run figures – the same figures that Reaper packages up to sell. Can I do anything about a bent spear or sword on a Bones figure? You may find that sometimes the thinner parts on Bones, like spears and swords, will look a little bent. Or the figure might be leaning back or forward too much on its ankles. If you want to straighten those out, hold the figure with tongs or in a colander, and dip it into boiling or near boiling water for at least a minute or two. Remove it from the water, reposition the part, and immediately dunk it into a bowl of ice water for at least a minute. It should hold in the new position. If you expose the figure to heat at a later time, it may revert to its original position. For this reason, if you want to wash the figure with soap and water prior to painting, you should use cool water or wash it before you heat it to reset a warped part. Important safety notes: Please exercise caution! The Bones material may get hot when dipped in boiling water, so you should use protective gear rather than touching it with your bare fingers. The Bones material might be damaged or damage your pot if placed in direct contact with the pot surface. If you are under the age of 18, please ask your parents for permission and have them read this section before boiling Bones figures. Are Bones made in China or the United States? All Bones figures made prior to March 2013 were produced in China. In March 2013, Reaper installed the machine necessary to produce Bones in its factory in Texas, and began the process of transferring production in-house.
  15. This was a quick, and fun, paint - I have a soft spot for the translucent figures - painted up as a 'gift' from an NPC to my players. Just open the box for help....
  16. A long time ago, in March 2019 to be exact, @NomadZeke set a painting challenge for that years April Fools Day. Paint something ridiculous.......20 months later I finally finished my entry for it He's based on a Pathfinder Huge pawn holder for ease of use in games. I absolutely adore this mini, in my opinion it's the best Huge sized dragons on the market and one of Julie Guthrie's most stunning sculpts I humbly present to you, Kyphrixis the multi-hued Rainbow Dragon! Hope y'all like him, as always all comments and criticisms are happily received
  17. Hello Reaper friends! You might remember I did a whole tribe of Hill Giants on a display board, with hex bases? This is my follow up to that, this time: Stone Giants. Errrm, it all got a bit out of hand, and I'd LOVE some input from you all, please This is where I'm at after a week and I'm a bit stuck tbh. I think I need to decide more about what the "finish" will look like before I go a lot further. Once I cover that foam with more than paint it's going to be harder to make changes. I'm thinking of sort of "cladding" it in pieces of slate, with sculpted bits / groundwork in the gaps? I'd also love to hear suggestions for other miniatures and features to add to the scene to break up those big open rocky spaces. Current extra bits and bobs are just there for a sense of scale and how extra minis might "interrupt" or "enhance" the scene. Some next steps though: - cork around the hexes on the platforms for the bases to fit into - some sort of "door frame" - "box in" the sides (which are cut out of a continuing mountainside, in my head at least) Please, rain your ideas and encouragements upon me!
  18. I think most GM's can sympathise, sometimes your players just get lucky going through a dungeon. Maybe the dice are on their side or maybe they're just a bunch of min/maxing little murder hobos that have destroyed everything in their path. What you need is one final encounter, one last way to try and salvage at least some of your pride and show them that they're not quite as in control as they think they are. There's a room. It's certainly locked and probably warded and what player can resist that? Once they force their way the find this ancient stone circle. There's some sort of mossy ooze growing on its base, but the players attention is drawn to the softly pulsing light from the giant cabochon jewels set as eyes in the carved dragon heads. How can they resist? A massive thanks to @TaleSpinner for sculpting such an awesome piece, it was a pleasure to paint! This is when you turn around the portal What comes out of it? Not sure, but its certainly something draconic, maybe even something with 5 heads Thanks for looking, all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Hope you liked it.
  19. Help! I'm hating this paintjob. I grabbed this demilich thinking it'd be a fun and easy paintjob. But everything I do makes me hate it more. I was trying to go for a green flame look, so yellow on the inside, and gradually darker green highlights on the outside. These were drybrushed and then cleaned up by hand. I think this is where the problem started because it's not reading as fire. It just looks like a blobby mess? Should I just scrap it and start over with more of an ethereal glow that's darker in the middle and lighter on the edges? I also am not happy with the base. I've never painted a 2D base before, I've always added some kind of texturing material. And although I'm reasonably satisfied with how the base looks on the summoning circle behind the demilich, it looks so bad on the demilich base. And I think my green glow isn't helping. And finally the Bones. I imagined that if there was a green light behind the Bones then they'd be tinted green and darker on the outside. Again .. this just doesn't look right. I'm normally fairly confident in my painting abilities, but I think I've landed in unfamiliar territory and I'm just not sure how to salvage or proceed. What can I do?
  20. I'm sure many of you can sympathise- we see a cool model in a kickstarter, finally get it delivered and then sit flummoxed whilst trying to figure out exactly how to paint said mini. This Mystic Portal has been sitting on my painting desk since last June and I finally figured out what to do with it. Imagine that your players have just finished ransacking your meticulously planned dungeon/keep/cavern system. They've breezed through the encounters, possibly due to good dice rolls or possibly that they're a bunch of min/maxing little murder hobos. What you need is one final encounter, one last chance for them to shine or to let them spectacularly fail. There's one last room left and it's securely locked. It'll certainly be magically warded and if I know my players then that's a challenge that they won't be able to pass up. Inside the room is a single portal, made of nondescript stone but with stunning looking gems set into the eyes of it's carved dragons. Surely none of them would be daft enough to trigger an obviously dangerous portal? You haven't met my players My plan to paint one side of the portal the naturalistic stone colour and to paint the other side the fully active, just about to summon a multi headed dragon, portal. This means that when they invariably trigger it, all I have to do is spin it around and savour their worried/confused faces Here's hoping that I can actually do it justice. This is the portal. It's cast in translucent bonesium, which I like because it gives you a choice between taking advantage to it's see through quality or to just paint it like a normal mini. I opted to paint it as normal. There was a slight bit of warping on the base piece, but the old 'boiling/ice water' trick sorted it out in 5 minutes. I'm planning on setting the base on some warning runes, so I used the Greenstuff World Dwarven rolling pin on some foam to see how it would fit onto the pattern. On to the painting! I painted the inactive side of the portal Cloudy Grey 9089 and the active side Pure Black 9037. I'm not sure if I'm going to fuzz up this line or leave it as a stark contrast. I added a black/ green wash to dirty up the stone and added a little bit of orange to the stone to give it a little bit of texture The real work begins! I started blocking in the colours for the active side of the portal. Red, purplish black, white, green and blue. It's almost as if I'm trying to match my half finished Ma'al Drakar My coordination went a bit wobbly with the foo dogs(which are awesome, btw!) so that's where I left it for tonight. We've got a storm coming in tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get some more work done on it tomorrow. Any comments/criticism/suggestions are, as always, warmly received.
  21. It's the perfect time of year to show off this little collection of spooky minis! Giant Bats 44040 These little guys are adorable. They're pretty simple, and it's hard to pick out details in their faces, but I think they're fantastic little minis. Though their size clearly makes them giant bats, I can definitely see myself using them as "normal-sized" bats for Wildshape or Familiar purposes. I specifically used the Little Brown Bat as my coloration reference. More Bat Photos Below: Harrowgate Shrine 77723 Next up is a bit of scatter terrain. This is one of the two models in the Harrowgate Shrines set. What could it be? An ancient omen? The gravestone for a horrific creature? Or perhaps the beast itself is encased in stone! It's not the most exciting of models, but I thought it fit nicely with this little set. I probably should have based it, but I like basing scatter pieces on flat bases and didn't have one the right size for this. Might base it in the future. More Shrine Photos Below: Werebat 77448 And rounding out this set we have the big baddie: the werebat! I really like how dynamic this guy is. Really get the sense he's about to lunge at you, or take off to the skies. I painted him up like the giant bats. Don't love the paintjob, but it works. I really like how his base turned out though. The model comes on a roughly 1" circular base, but he's pretty top heavy. I didn't want to give him a 2" base, but I'm really starting to enjoy basing these oversized models on 40mm rounds. Especially with that tapering rim, they fit nicely without looking out-of-scale compared to other "medium" sized creatures. More Werebat Photos Below: So what's the story? What would you use these minis for?
  22. Who let the dogs out (of hell)? Hi everyone. Back again with some infernal pooches. These are the Hell hounds from the Bones 4 Fan Favorites Expansion. They were fun and challenging. All those glowing lava details were a pain. I think I managed to get them to turn out alright though. Also had fun with the lava bases. More Photos of the Hell Hounds beneath the spoiler: In all, I like these guys. Their bases were a lot of fun and really pop from a lot of my other minis. I'll be posting more of my infernal collection soon, but figured these were a great place to start. Which Hound turned out best?
  23. Hi everyone. Got a couple of Cool Cats to show off today. I went back and forth for a long time on whether or not a wanted a group of matching lions, or if I wanted variety. As a DM, I feel these would be used most often as Druidic wildshapes, familiars, or summons. I also couldn't deny that i wanted to try some different techniques on each, so I decided to go with a Lion, a Tiger, and a Black Panther. Tiger (Reaper Bones Lion 77341) First up was the Tiger. She was actually the Lioness from the Reaper Bones Lions set (77341). Her sculpt looked like it could read as a tiger, and that was my major inspiration for wanting to paint each of them differently. I used a lot of references images on her and the subsequent cats as well. Really wanted to get the coloration right. I'm happy I did, because my instinct was to use more orange tones, but in actuality, tigers have more of a warm brown color. I used red-hair colors to bring out the highlights. The stripes weren't as difficult as I was expecting. I just used my reference photos as a guide and did my best. I do worry that people will misinterpret the nose stripes as poorly-drawn whiskers though. She also looks a little dopy head-on but I promise that that's the sculpt. Click the Spoiler for more Photos Lion (Reaper Bones Lions 77341) Next up is the other half of the Lion set. This guy was always destined to be a lion. Once again, I'm really glad I used reference images. Its funny how many animals we envision incorrectly. I learned this lesson well after painting up the Bones 4 pig way too pink, even though I knew it shouldn't be that color. I'm really pleased with my coloration on the mane. The only dry brushing on this guy is the rock base. Time consuming but worth the result. I think the muscle highlights look pretty natural. Click the Spoiler for more Photos Black Panther (Legend of Drizzt Board Game - Guenhwyvar) And finally we have the Black Panther. Fun Fact: Did you know that there is no such animal as a Black Panther? It is just a nickname for melanistic variants of any Panthera species, specifically Leopards and Jaguars. This model is from The Legend of Drizzt Board Game by Wizards of the Coast. I have not read a single Drizzt Do'Urden book, but I believe the black panther, Guenhwyvar, is the ranger's companion animal. Anyways, that was influence enough to paint her up in that style. I believe I used mostly Black Jaguars as inspiration, though the markings became less important than getting the highlight colors right. I ended up using Reaper's Dark Elf Skin colors to highlight the black, which is amusing considering Drizzt's race. I added some mottled spotting afterwards, trying to imply the pattern more than paint each individual spot. I think I managed to imply muscle, fur, and spots without losing the dark shade of black I wanted. Pretty happy, especially since this sculpt was my least favorite of the bunch. Click the Spoiler for more Photos QUESTION TIME Which of the three is your favorite? What animals do you use most often in your games? Do you have a favorite animal you like to see painted in miniatures?
  24. How's it going everyone? Got a handful of baddies to show off today. Painted these a few months ago and still pretty proud of them. They're a mix of the Brigands from the Bones 4 Core, and the Bandits from Bones 3: Stoneskull Expansion. Painted them up to match. They'll work great as bandits, thugs, mercenaries, or militia men. Very versatile figures. They were also a great opportunity for me to practice my face-work. Brigands (3) 77707 I'm assuming the upcoming bones "Brigands" are in fact these three. Lovely little models. I'm a big fan of the slightly chunkier bones models that have been coming out lately. They tend to have larger surface areas and better-defined edges. They also tend to have less clutter. This makes for an easier, cleaner paint job in my opinion. More Photos below the Spoiler: Bandits 77507,77508,77509,77510 These four are from the Bones 3 Stoneskull Expansion. I've had them sitting around for awhile, but decided to paint them up with the Brigands. They have similar enough designs to fit together. In general, I like their design less, but once I painted them up that didn't matter. Perfectly serviceable mooks! More Photos beneath the Spoiler: Who's your favorite of the bunch? I'm partial to the Executioner myself, with the Bandit Bully taking a close second.
  25. I have done about 15 minis over the past year (starting with the Learn to Paint kit), after taking a 30+ year break from painting lead with Testors enamel. Each one I try to learn or improve one technique. This one I focused on pose & basing (took a little surgery to get rid of the pudding base and shape all the claws). The 'rock' is a chunk of bark. Any comments, critiques, questions or suggestions are welcome. Between this forum and YouTube, I am amazed on the knowledge and information available, in an overall great community. Getting ready for Bones V delivery!
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