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  1. The Medium I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice. The Ice Step 1: Base colour Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised) Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it. Step 3: Smooth the Medium I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has. Step 4: Let it Dry In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty. This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through. The Snow Step 1: Snow Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture Step 2: Applying Snow Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.) Step 3: Let it Dry The base is now finished. The Miniature Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
  2. For my online business, we cut lots of wood and leave lots of pieces in the scrap bin. Well, we just processed a beautiful seasoned branch of oak and cut it every which way right up to the very last piece, the spot where it was cut from the body of the tree. For some reason I spent a few minutes looking at the piece and decided to bring it with me to clean up. As you can see in the pics it cleaned up but I wasn't sure what to do with it. So, I had just posted an ash burl to my website and suggested in the description making it into a treasure horde for your dragon. And I realized what this piece was... a broken column sitting amongst the dwarven horde lost to a dragon. As you can see below, I painted the middle to look like solid rock. I left it slightly exaggerated so the paint could be seen under the gold and artifacts I was planning to place on it. Next step, add the booty to the piece. Which is going to require making some treasure bits, golden and silvery pieces with a smattering of platinum. The last question is, being a dwarven treasure, would you use coins, bullion nuggets, or both for the piled mass?
  3. I only saw one thread about crackle paste when I searched these forums. So, I’m going to share how it’s going for me. I started with washed and dried 1” and 2” Reaper Bases. I put this garbage on a 2 inch base first. Don’t buy it. I got it at Hobby Lobby at the time because they were out of Folk Art. To be clear, this is Crackle Medium. It is meant to be painted on a primed or rough surface I guess, and painted thin. I put it on kind of thick. It didn’t crackle at all! So, I got a tub of this stuff on Amazon. The directions state “put over a thin layer of PVA glue.” Pfft, who has time for that extra step? Here is the result on a washed but otherwise un prepped set of bases. 1 inch 2 inch. Lousy! So, the surface needs something for crackle paste to work right. This is a 1” base with a thin layer of PVA glue. This is a 1” base with just hitting it with 220 grit sandpaper and washing it again. I also used the 2” base with dried crackle medium on it. Not pictured. This is a 2” base covered in black brush on primer. Here is the result on the 2” base over dried crackle medium. It was hard to get the stuff into a uniform layer, as the medium created a very hydrophobic surface, so the paste slides around too easy.
  4. Yeah, another base. Shocker, I know. It's one I've been thinking about for years, basically, since I bought the beads that are in it. So, the premise: I use the air-dry clay hexes from the previous project as well as these beads I bought at Walmart so long ago. The Bugle Beads are hex-shaped and iridescent. The color on the tube is labeled as "black iris." I build a flat of the hexes and use the beads upright on a portion of the base to represent an unusual terrain. I use a pill bottle shell along one edge to build the terrain upward on that edge more easily. I'll peel that off later. So here's the bottom layer of the piece. The front layer is as high as it will go. The next layer will go to the top of the beads and also be flat. The last layer will be more like a hill on the other side of the beads. Now if this was for a mech it would look like pilings holding back the earth. I will use more of them here than just along the fronts. Stay tuned. Enjoy. Please, stay safe.
  5. Hello everyone, here are pictures of a 77341 Lioness. This Bones model was sculpted by Geoff Valley. I painted it as a Black (Blue) Panther. I kept the original base and sculpted additional high grass around to incorporate it to a larger 2 inches square base. The trees are dried roots.
  6. After several iterations of painting and base, I'm finally happy with my Griffon and I'm calling it finished! The mini ended up looking a bit cartoony I did go for something else initially, but it seemed too plain for a griffon, so I was happy to exchange realism for 'striking'. More on PSA. And I just finished redoing the base -- thanks for support on the WIP board.
  7. I planned to go for the coloring suggestion on the box, except with brighter feathers. After base coat and a wash it seemed to turn rather plain. I keep the underside this way, while for the top side of the wings I started adding some variation to the feathers, gradually daring to add more detail and contrast. Took a while to get there, but in the end I was happy and called it finished. I even took a fun picture with it: But now that I'm a few minis wiser, I demoted him from finished to lacking base. And this is where I am stuck now. I had this plan of making a sandstone cliff looking base. I positioned him and started building up terrain, working carefully not to damage the finished mini. I colored some stones of various sizes in a few colors so I don't need to paint as much around the mini and I started to glue my rocks carefully around the base. I kept working on it for hours thinking I am getting somewhere, but once I took a break and looked at it again from all sides... I stand by my rocks, I think in a few steps they'll look great, but the scene makes no sense. These are not cliffs, more like a stone quarry, what would a griffon be doing there? - that's too specific and unlikely. Time to "delete" this somehow and start over... Wish me luck! https://pocketsizedadventurers.wordpress.com/2019/12/18/griffon-wings/
  8. I was having some fun playing with green stuff and decided to revamp the base of this Goroloth. I scupted corals, tube sponge, starfish, and a deadly blue-ringed octopus! There's some pictures of the sculpts before trimming and painting also. :D
  9. So I used to paint a ton, but that was maybe 10 years ago. I just started getting back into the hobby and I've run into an issue. Reaper used to make metal bases that were recessed. I know they sold them in square, maybe 1" or so. I'm pretty confident that they also sold them in round, but I'm not 100% on that. Now I've been working on a mini project and the base that comes with the figure is abysmal. I was really hoping I could just clip the fig off the existing base and with the help of a little green stuff put it on a new metal base. I really prefer the feel and weight that a metal base would add to the figure. It appears now that Reaper isn't selling those bases anymore. Does anyone know where I could either find some old inventory and pick up a handful of them, or does anyone know of another source that makes a similar product?
  10. So, I'm about to start working on making some 3D bases of my own for my dragons (and hubby's too)... Anyone have any pointers or tips on particular putted to use when coating stuff like cork to add more detail, or would there be much of a difference between say Milliput, greenstuff, or other things? I ask as terrain generally doesn't require as much detail as a mini would, but it never hurts to get a few more opinions. I do have greenstuff atm (and Aves Apoxie if this supplier I'm trying to buy some from sends me an invoice ), and might be ordering some other stuff, hence why I'm curious. Love greenstuff for stamped or rolled bases, and gap filling (I suspect when I try sculpting I'll like it too, I'm enjoying how it behaves now that I've had a bit of time using it for gap filling and bases), but naturally I'm open to other options too.
  11. As mentioned on my previous post, that as aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the second one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Portal or Statuary Base Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  12. As an aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the first one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  13. Hello community, I finally started preparing my bones 3 orcs and want to base them. I am wondering what base size would be the correct if we use them for d&d 5e ? I assume 25mm, but from the figure size it’s more 32mm. Anyone some suggestions please? Do you think 32mm would work as well with the d&d or pathfinder map tiles? regards, nuki
  14. Standby for massive dump in 3... 2... 1... Chopping this up into a few pieces for easy posting/consumption. Where I've been: Video games (Xumenicus#1118, if you're on Battle.net), bought a new house, running a fly fishing tournament for a treehugger non-profit, part-running my treehugger fly fishing non-profit local chapter, some other random stuff, and yeah -- here we are. I promise to paint more. Seriously. I just need to paint and sculpt more. I also need to fish more. And game more. I guess this is a thing: Apparently, I need deadlines in order to get anything done. This time around, since I couldn't make it to RC2017 (travel budget blown on BlizzCon), I aimed for a couple different challenges over at Massive Voodoo: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2017/07/mv-challenge-2017.html Objective: Make a water-themed base. No central miniature, no real focus -- just a base. And it has to be mostly water. Disclaimer: I'm not at all confident, or consider myself proficient with clear resin. I wasn't sure how good/bad/terrible this piece would turn out, so I didn't spend days painting this. It's got a few rough layers of highlights, a few rough layers of shadows, and basically I just wanted to turn something in, have fun doing it, and not stress about being good enough to win. The MV crowd is amazing -- I was just trying to get closer to touching the sun. :) Supply List: Wood, coping saw, cyano super glue, wire, green stuff, sculpting tools, paint, brushes, old brushes, Ease Release 200 Mold Release Agent, plastic Solo cups, nitrile gloves, popsicles sticks (fox mixing resin), Castin' Craft® Clear Polyester Casting Resin, small sheet of plasticard, duct tape, Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic High Gloss Coating spray, sandpaper (100, 200, 400, 600, 1000 grit), Woodland Scenics Lichen, Woodland Scenics Water Effects, fly tying thread, level for leveling the curing area I did a few sketches one night so I could figure out what to do, and this is where I ended up. I thought about doing a waterfall, or something cooler, but I was kind of in a time crunch, and only had 3 weeks, especially since things are still calming down from moving. [pic_00] Picked out a piece of wood from my scrap pile... [pic_01] Went to work with a coping saw until I had a pleasing, interesting shape... [pic_02] Learning from past mistakes with trying to get green stuff to adhere to wood, I opted to seal the wood this time. I used cyano, and 2 old brushes. It actually works really well as a wood sealer ( http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/cyanoacrylate-everything-you-need-to-know/ ), but you need to be extra careful due to the amount being used -- more of a chance to glue yourself to something, glue to project to something, and the fumes will sneak up on you real quick, and burn your eyes or nose. Fair warning. Be careful. [pic_03] I opted to use green stuff for the project. That's where my comfort zone still is, even though I'm trying to work more with Beesputty and ZBrush. The bit of twisted copper wire there is to support an additional column. Do an image search for "limestone underwater caves", and you'll see where I'm going with this. [pic_04] More... [pic_05] A little more... [pic_06] Starting the tree. Do a search on "limestone cliffs trees roots", and you'll see where I'm headed even more. [pic_07]
  15. I'm looking at basing some of my miniatures now that I have a few standard 25mm round bases but I seem to have run into a problem. In the Animal Companion pack, the wolf and the cat are too big for these bases as it seems they were made with cavalier bases in mind. Luckily, the bear is on two hind legs swiping so I should be able to base it with no problems, possibly having to glue a coin inside the base to give it weight to not fall over. I've seen the thread discussing the Owlbear and Iron Cobra with the same problem, but I'm not a fan of the solution of simply basing the figures with larger bases than what the size is in Pathfinder. I'm anal, and a bit stubborn. I figure the best way is to build up the platform with some slate on an angle and have the figure looking over Lion King-style or coming down like a prowling predator. Wondering if anyone has other suggestions I could try, even to mix it up a bit so not every over-sized miniature is based the same way. I'm attaching a picture to show just how much larger the figure is to the base, and where the feet are.
  16. Has anyone seen the textured rollers made by the company Green Stuff World? Came across them when I was buying some items to make bases. Bought a few of them, but now I have seen how simple and quick it is to make bases am thinking I will buy the others when I am a little more financial. Tonight pumped out 16 bases using the planks for rebasing some of the Rum & Bones stuff I am about to paint. Anyhoo thought I'd share the before and after pics. Did a quick paint up of them to see how they would turn out. Just bases coat, washes and bit of drybrushing. First one is meant to be frozen, but I thought it would work really well as lava.
  17. Hay there haven't posted in a wile, my store is under renovation so I haven't been able to work on stuff lately. I was working on a half orc anti paladin but unfortunately I guess I didn't mix the epoxy correctly when I was gluing the figure together and half way threw painting her she fell apart. So instead I was able to finish this first and wanted to share it. This is the 60059 Harrower, in my mind she is standing at the edge of a cliff channeling magic getting ready to attack what ever is below her. I wanted to try something different with the magic effect so I tried we blending colored washes into different metallic colors and I like the result I got, I then decided to go with a some what anime style theme to the rest of the figures paint scheme. I have included both 2 work in progress photos as well as 2 taken after final assembly. I have no idea why the two final assembly photos are so dark, but the color in the work in progress is much closer to what it actually looks like in person. As always feed back is welcome, please keep in mind I don't normally paint small detail like what I did on the cards and I am working to improve my line size and consistency. As always I post stuff like this and more on my FB page if you would like to follow it I would greatly appreciate it. www.facebook.com/TabletopGlory
  18. Decided to start a project based on a piece Knarthex gave me at Paint Day last Saturday. It was a neat piece of white marble in the shape of a hexagon that was intended to be used for floor tiles. One side of the hex is glued to string webbing that would keep a sheet of them together and spaced correctly. So, I put the smooth side down and cleaned the back webbing off the edges and contemplated the piece and what minis I have waiting for bases. I chose the P-65 Heavy Metal Young Swamp Dragon I've been saving since Reaper cleared out their lead for Bones. So, I decided to apply little plastic squares as tile work. I left the alignment rough as I will rough em up and age them. The web backing will keep the basing materials secured to the smooth marble. Here's a pic... Next, drying glue and sawing lead.
  19. Hey, another WIP I'll start then most likely ignore for months. I finished Platypod, or so I thought. Then I took pictures and decided, nope. Needs more blending and highlights. See Frumitty and Shoamita to follow I've had quite a few questions about how I created the river on my spring exchange's base. I'll do my best to take their base from start to finish including all my mistakes (cause I'll make them) and how I fixed them. Pictures of the base concept to follow Comments, questions, suggestions always welcome.
  20. So, I have a Wyrmgear model and a 120 x 92 mm base to put him on. Problem is, I want to put a tile pattern (probably made from cardboard) on the base, and the Wyrmgear model has rocks as part of his feet. Him walking around on rocks probably wouldn't fit if I wanted to do something indoors, probably in a castle with interesting-looking undamaged tiles. How might I safely remove the rocks on his feet? Store link for reference: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/wyrmgear/sku-down/77177
  21. This is what happens when I get an idea stuck in my head that I have to get out before I can do anything else. It's obviously (I hope its obvious) a WIP as I need to get some earth to pack around the skull before I can move on to paint it. I also came up with a bit of background for it. Yes, all over the top for just the base for a moday for no apparent reason other than it was bouncing around in my head. The Vishnakov Anomaly The man before Kommander Zerkova resembled a Greylord no more than she resembled a fairytale princess, but be that as it may, he was…no, he once was a member of the Greylord Covenant, though a minor one at that. He was completely unremarkable in appearance, of average height, with brown hair and eyes, and she had read his file, nothing remarkable there either. He only resembled a homeless madman now, with his wild eyes, ragged and bloodied clothes. The only thing visible that he possessed was what appeared to be a student’s grammar book, from what little she could see of the cover, which he held in a deathgrip, clutched to his chest. Using her special eye, she saw a familiar glow about the book, which radiated down into his hand and into his body. Her scouts had stumbled across him lying in a ditch alongside the road they were traveling. The scout that had first touched him was now dead of a wasting disease that caused all the blood in his body to run out through his eyes and run along the ground and flow up the once Greylord’s body and into his eyes. The second scout was about the run back to camp when Antonin Vishnakov called out that he was here to see Kommander Zerkova and he could lead the way or tell him after he was dead. In truth, she felt no real fear of him as she was shielded against many kinds of magic, but her two bodyguards seemed to give the man pause and he stopped just inside the door’s entryway. He spoke in very precise words, as though he did not want to be misunderstood. “I have come very far to tell you that the anomaly should be left alone or we will all be forced to feed on each other’s blood.†At which he raised the grammar book as in a small salute and tossed it carefully about a third of the way into the room. Then he began to quiver as someone who’s trying to quietly laugh at a friend’s joke in a crowded room. He then violently slapped a hand over one eye and then the other as his body shook in a violent spasm. His mouth opened, but only the sound of gurgling issued forth, as though the last bit of water down a drain, and then he collapsed face first into the room, his hands never moving from in front of his eyes. The autopsy later revealed that his eyes had grown to twice their size, bloated with blood. Very little blood remained in his body otherwise. The book had taken time to disarm and unlock. By the time the book was free, Antonin Vishnakov’s file had appeared on her desk. Even with them both and some well spent coin, it still took the better part of two months to find the site of the former greylord’s camp, or what was left of it. It took month’s more careful work before they discovered what had now been deemed The Vishnakov Anomaly. The Anomaly could only be safely reached through the eyes and body of a warjack. Regular steamjacks tended to seize up or have untimely breakdowns anywhere near the Anomaly. The only activity from the Anomaly was random glowing that shown with no rhyme or reason that she’d been able to decipher so far. She’d had to requisition a specialty warjack to uncover as much of the Anomaly as she had. Lately, unconfirmed reports of Cryxian troops had grown more frequent. She knew she was running out of time to discover its secrets before she had to attempt to destroy the Anomaly or have it fall to Cryx. I apologize in advance for the quality of the videos (which I apparently can't upload, so I've linked to them instead). Here are the pictures though. Video without overhead lights - https://youtu.be/nRiHPQHc7KI Video with overhead lights - https://youtu.be/584Kcig89N0
  22. Hey everyone, This is a work in progress for a finished piece. I finished her yesterday but couldn't post the work in progress, because it was a valentine gift for my girlfriend and she sometimes roams the forums too. She picked this model a while back when I was ordering and told me right from the start she wanted something golden green. I painted the dryad gold green and was my first real blending on a miniature that small. It turned out pretty well although my shaking hands still bother my painting skills at times. I mixed the green gold with VMC golden olive, VGC yellow olive, VGC glorious gold, VGC polished gold, some glaze medium and water. I started with the yellow olive and glorious gold and mixed in a tiny bit of golden olive for each succesive layer. The last few layer I used the polished gold instead of the glorious gold. http://myalbum.com/photo/1phxrsBjHpuj_RuEoEm/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/Vv8pv02XrOL6/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/tmHEN1RjJgLG/1k0.jpg For the tree I used VGC charred brown, VMC flat brown and VMC flat earth for the highlights. I used the same colors on the sculpted tree. Her hair was basecoated VGC royal purple, followed by VGC hexed lichen and last VGC warlord purple. same three colors were used for the fingernails and lips. The tree was made with some twisted floristwire and greenstuff. The base was made with supersculpey and when baked painted with a few different browns and some sand colors for the creek bed.. Once dry I first glued on some very fine sand, the white/silver kind used for birdcages. I glued in some small stones and when everything was dry i drybrushed teh stones and painted the sand in the creek bed. Then I glued on a mix of lots of different kinds flock and static grass and some noch foliage leaves too. I have a lot of different lengths of static grass and made some reed/grass bundles by putting some woodglue on my fingertips and rolling a tiny bit of the different lengths of static grass between my fingers. I drilled small holes in teh base and glued the bundles in place. When everything was dry I used thinned woodglue to seal between the creekbed and the plastic rim I made from a plastic juicebottle to get ready for pooring the Vallejo still water.. That stuff sucks bad.. But it was all I had at the time so I went with it. It is horrible stuff, its pretty easy to use, but when it dries it shrinks and it shrinks bad.. About 20% is my guess, so when dry you get this concave watermass.. I poored 3 layers total to get it sort of level. In the end it looks fine but it is a lot of extra work. As a final touch I used some Aquatec Gloss gel to create some small waves on the surface and painted the crests with a bit of diluted white. http://myalbum.com/photo/FIpEgWcln3DB/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/BerM7bo5FjKs/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/gkf2urEjISXw/1k0.jpg For the pink flowerplants I used some small plastic rods dipped in superglue gel and sprinkled some 1mm static grass on it, once dry I painted them pink. The orange plant/flower I made from some green cardboard and the orange cone was a mishap from the grass bundles I made earlier. I painted it orange and glued it on the base. When that was dry I glued the leaves around it. the trees both got some vines made from green stuff and on the dryad tree I glued some mininatur ivy leaves, also a few in her hair. On the base as a final touch I glued some birch seed leaves. http://myalbum.com/photo/AelHWIaeU9bE/1k0.jpg Hope you all like her as much as my girlfriend did, she was very happy with the finished piece Any C&C is as always much appreciated
  23. Greetings beloved Meatbags! Just finished up this little project today and I felt like showing it off. However I am feeling really disappointed that it isn't in the 40mm scale to compete! The concept behind this one is to be mostly monochromatic, which brings the attention to the face and highlights. The design on the back is freehand, and I could have done more with it, I just felt like after three tries this was good enough. If you have any questions please ask. And as always comments welcome.
  24. This is the Shaerileth figure. I wanted to do a black & white/greyscale figure, set off with a single accent colour. Well, in this case it was red blood! Kevin in Edmonton http://www.mageknightkevin.blogspot.ca Edit: Ah, as a new user, I've just discovered that you can't show a nude figure here. No problem. If you'd like to see other images of this figure (from the front, for example) you can just travel to my blog, linked in my signature. Thanks everyone!
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