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Found 2771 results

  1. Anyone have a good method of removing those mold lines from BONES line of miniatures? I attempted to do with a small file and the boneesium started to granulate, leaving a "morning star bump" in the Sir Scalealot´s helmet. Check how it came out:
  2. Just outside of registration, there are a couple of tables with a parade of Vampire bones (from the video) along with other Bones including Kaladrax and Nethermaul. Here are a few pictures. Kaladrax: Kaladrax from another angle: Nethermaul (who looks puny by comparison) and the Undead Giant (who looks really puny by comparison): The Parade of Bones: Ron
  3. Hello, such happy news regarding the Bones today so here is a recent experiment, still with craft paint and no primer. Others have painted a much more exciting Gargoyle but I wanted to see what I could do with just one color. First try sucked (too bright) and I decided to strip and begin again -- it was actually harder to get the paint off than I thought it would be. It really sticks well. Despite boiling water I could never get this guy to stay upright, to I made a custom base out of some weird stuff I found at the craft store. I am really happy with the result -- an unusual "natural" effect. I am continuing to experiment with home-made bases. Cheers.
  4. So I got sidetracked from LPK2 a bit by RL... and a Great Worm. Painted up for tabletop use, I think it turned out pretty well. I keep surprising myself with how not sucky I can be if I take time to actually do it properly. I'm going to list what I used for paints mostly for my own reference than anything else. Body: Based with HD Gem Purple, washed with a mix of HD Twilight Purple and Black Wash. Belly: Base HD Gem Purple, layered up through Clear Magenta, up to HD Entrail Pink Pustule/Bumps: Based with Clear Red, then layered up to HD Fireball Orange, and then spotted with a bit of HD Golden Yellow. Rocks: Based with HD Dirty Grey, washed with a mix of Brown Liner and Black Wash (I really like this mix), Then dry-brushed up HD Dirty Grey, HD Concrete Grey, and finally a mix of HD Concrete Grey, and Sample Tan (a good of a name as any). Mouth: Linen White, washed with the same wash from body, then I decided I didn't like it and did a heavy glaze of Oiled Leather. Teeth: Based HD Tusk Ivory, then highlighted with Linen White. C&C welcome; Thanks :)
  5. Was looking at the bases on the ones in the Preview section and started wondering just how wide the integral bases are. I've got some of the Chronoscope ones in the 30mm recessed bases they come with and was thinking about getting some of the 3 with assault rifles to convert into additional soldiers, so I was wondering if the new bases match the recessed area of the 30mm lipped bases?
  6. Hi all. Relatively short time lurker, first time poster. I backed the Kickstarter for Vampire plus one of each optional add-on (including Orcpocalpyse). I'm feeling like practicing painting a little bit before my big box gets here, so I have a question: What existing bones aren't in my pledge? I'm thinking about getting a few to practice on, and I'd like as many different minis in my collection as possible. Thanks! -Lou
  7. 77028 Mortar the Gargoyle: When I got this figure, both wings were pointing directly backwards. So I have boiled and repositioned the wings, and also moved the stance forwards, as it leaned way back. After a few days, both the wings and the stance had moved rather a lot back to their original position, so I have boiled and repositioned a second time. Sadly, it has started leaning backwards again. So the stance is more “jumping backwards in surprise” than “aggressively leaning forwards”…Hope it does not go any more backwards. At any rate, I used this bone to test my spray paints on the Bones material. I used Army Painter Uniform Gray Spray Primer and it worked beautifully! Absolutely no problems, even when the coat got a little thick in places. So a wash with army painter dark tone ink (the little drop-bottle, not the quickshade tin). These inks are great, as they have the same general effect and colour tones as the quickshades, but are water soluble and dry fast and matte. A good alternative to the turpentine-based quickshade, and also much less aggressively staining than most dark inks from other brands that I have tried. After that was dry, a quick and easy drybrush with Army Painter Uniform Gray, followed by a lighter one mixed with some white. The rest was small details like the claws, the eyes, and mount. Base. Done! This model has some horrible mold lines, in the pictures they are most notable on its back. I forgot to scrape them off…and afterwards it was too late. Oh well. Also, the leer on it's face makes me think I should have painted it as a clown or the joker.
  8. Here are the two latest Bones. Almost running out of the current available, but I have plenty of other plastic and metal to paint while waiting on my Kickstarter reward. And two others. I recently had to repair these two after suffering a dropped case incident, and since they were on my desk I decided to snap some photos. This half dragon (supposed to be bronze, but I like the red better) lost both his arms. Luckily he knows a cleric who is high enough level to cast regeneration: This next one is one of my favorites. I was going for a desert ranger color scheme. Who says rangers are only found in the forest? I am not a fan of the sword, though. I've had to re-attach it twice now. I pinned it this time. Next time, spiders.
  9. Top Ten Tabletop Kickstarters: How They Do It Matt Forbeck expands on ICv2's article "Why are tabletop games outdoing even video games, which are far more popular in general? It has to do with the economies of scale of plastic miniatures."
  10. For one of my PFRPG games, the PCs will be running into a group of snakemen. I prefer my snakemen to have human torsos and snake lower bodies, but most of the snakemen minis are either snake-women that fit this description, or snakemen who are just huge snakes with arms. Now that Bones are coming, conversions are cheap, so I thought I'd give it a whirl. I will be combining Lindir, Elf Archer with Vandorendra Demon [warning, store link nudity alert]. 30 minutes with an exacto knife and some greenstuff and he has a new pair of legs! Comments on the conversion are welcome, but they need to be made tonight, before the greenstuff cures! Question for those who do conversions - do I need to use superglue as well, or will the greenstuff be enough of a bond? ------------------------------------------ Lindir, checking out his new pair of legs. Simple cuts through both of his legs, and a straight cut through her torso. Further cuts were made to both the torso and the snake tail to get them to roughly match up. I put a blob of greenstuff on the tail then mushed them together. I cleaned up the excess greenstuff and smoothed it out. The butt/tail area had the most gaps. Here's a close-up.
  11. Been away a while, stuff happened. But I did get to finish a single Bone miniature, the Werewolf. A relatively quick and easy paint job, mostly basecoat -inkwash-drybrush, also a new way (for me) of finishing the base. This looks much better than the mid green I used before. Mould lines are a problem with the Bones I have gotten my tacky paws on, as the material resists scraping and filing. The mould lines need to be sliced off, which in many cases probably will ruin more detail than just leaving them on. So here I opted to leave them for the most part, they were not that obtrusive. Look at the rignt arm for one. The angle of the pictures does not show the lines very well, they are more obvious IRL.
  12. Here's my last 2 Bones models until the Kickstarter package arrives. Not my best work I don't think, but overall I'm still happy with them. 77026 - Young Dragon This guy gave me a lot of trouble with shading/highlighting. I don't think I have a handle on red yet. I learned a few things, which is good, since this guy was mainly meant as a practice run before the large dragons in the Kickstarter. I'm happy with the overall color scheme, but my red shading is going to need some work. It looks a little better in person than it does here, as I ended up with too much glare from my light. His base is supposed to have a cooled molten lava rock look.
  13. So, Bryan suggested a ton of little threads rather than one massive thread, and some people who showed up on that massive thread made it clear they were non-painters. So, how about suggestions for fun ways to decorate the Bones minis which aren't too hard for non-painters to essay, assuming that they may not wish to put in all the time and effort and money on supplies to learn how to paint 'em. Basically, it's for people interested in differentiating their Bones on the table without doing full blown paint jobs. And for anyone looking at this thread alone, please wash the bones with warm water and liquid soap before doing any of these. For example ... Glue colored glitter on capes or armor or other notable areas. Decorate with Sharpies or other permanent markers (but keep the minis away from bright light afterwards because permanent markers do fade).
  14. I've been working on my Bones Werewolf Cut and Reposition and finally he's done. All C&C welcome.
  15. Here are two more speed-painted tabletop figures for D&D. They are Reaper Bones line versions of 02811 Dain Deepaxe and 60044 Damiel Iconic Alchemist. They took me longer than my last speed-paint, because they are more detailed. (Darn Damiel and his fiddly bits!) But they still are speedy for me, about 5-6 hours each, instead of my usual 12-15. They each have a coat of gloss, covered by a coat of matte, for heavy handling, and so they have a few shiny spots here and there.
  16. Hello all, I saw prototypes of CAV bones, any word on how they will be arriving (straight or kickstarter? and price) I thought perhaps this list will have more info.
  17. First up is my trio of Bones Orc Swordsmen (77019) These are my first minis in over a year, and first time using Bones. Sorry for the camera pic. For these I tried out a number of new things (new to me at least) including Litko 3mm wooden bases and Liquitex's Resin Sand for basing material. They were primed in Army Painter Uniform Grey (no tackiness at all, yay!) and haven't been varnished/sealed yet. After taking the picture, I did notice some spots that need to be touched up but these are just going to be used for tabletop so I may not. For my next Bones project, I'll probably either tackle a bigger figure or something with more bendy parts so I can figure out some good ways for working with those (suggestions for figures, please). I'll also try to build a photo area and light box. All in all, it's good to be behind a brush again and I'm more than happy about the Bones material so far and am looking forward to my coffin of Bones yet to come. Comments and critiques welcome.
  18. Because of the convergence of fields I wasn't sure where I'd get the best response. I chose CP&T as the most relevant... As a Bones supporter I'm getting http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/almaran/sku-down/03292 which is an almost perfect match for my character. Except it's human... and wingless. My paladin is a Scion of Arkhosia so I need wings and a head swap. I don't want to go crazy and get the Dragonman Conversion Kit just for 2 pieces... I can use the head from the Dragonman Warrior I'm already getting then buy a pair of wings. So this is where I ask for your help. Will metal wings unbalance the Bonesium mini ? Suggestions to prevent/counter-act if they will ? Any Reptus Warlord players with info on the stability of the winged models ? Any recommendations of which wings would be the best fit ? The pictures in the gallery while accurate, aren't the most helpful for me.
  19. Hello. I have been into miniatures, painting, and gaming for a long time. A long time. Long time... You'd think I would be better at it. But I digress. I bought into the KS as many of you did, and picked up a couple of already released Bones to give the material a spin. Here's how the Werewolf came out. I like these models quite a bit so far. Good detail, take paint pretty well. And then there's the price. I had purchased a Reaper mini or two over the years, but now I am going to have a ton of them. Thanks for looking. Since we can post models from any company here I will probably put up other stuff, too. I used to post on Coolmini in it's infancy, and have only recently been motivated to enter the online painting community more actively again. Probably the spate of recent mini KSs and all the people putting up their work and general excitement around mini gaming.
  20. As my first project after doing LTPK #1, I decided to try my hand at the Gnoll Warrior. I figured the armor+fur techniques I've learned so far would apply well. However, I thought I'd try to do something a little different with the fur color. Here's the pics, more info after: I'm pretty happy with the mace and shield at this point (True Silver + wash of Black Ink for the metal, Intense Brown + wash with Walnut Brown for wood on the shield). The fur, on the other hand, I'm not so sure about. The idea was to make this a "frost gnoll" or something like that by getting some sort of icy or arctic looking fur. What you see in the picture is the result of a base coat of Sapphire Blue, followed by a wash of Pure White, and finally another wash of extremely diluted Sapphire Blue. I'm having a really hard time deciding if I want to do the same with the rest of his fur, or paint over that with something completely different. Part of my problem is that I'm working with a pretty limited selection of colors while I wait for my Kickstarter bones and paint sets. I've got the colors from LTPK #1, plus a shiny purple and a Mint Green. I'm wondering if it would be possible to achieve a sandy brown tone for the fur, akin to a hyena or desert fox, using only the Tanned Skin, Intense Brown, and Pure White I've got on hand, or if I'm just S.O.L until I obtain some yellow paint. Anyway, what do you guys think? Any other suggestions for color choices and techniques on this mini?
  21. With a double vampire sitting on my kitchen table, and not really wanting to just push them back in the boxes, what methods ate you going to use to easily find the figure you want? I thought amount monsters in one Baggie, chronoscopes and IMEF types in another, armored in another, casters, etc... Not sure I will ever be satisfied with what I choose, but dumping them back after 2+hours of sorting is NOT going to happen.
  22. Hey all, just finished up my first Bones figure! Here he is, Mr Troll: Pretty rough paint job all things considered, could spend more time on it but I'm calling him done. Good enough to game with. I thought I'd also put up a few other bits and pieces I've completed over the years (it's a pretty rare occurrence). Here's a Warhammer Dwarf Lord: Felix does the best Dwarf sculpts IMHO, GW shouldn't have let him go. Actually, better that they did, he's doing great work with Avatars of War. Some old-school GW, Man O War Dwarf Nautiluses (Nautili?): These were the ones I had difficulty removing the mould lines from due to some slippage of the moulds in the casting process. Can't just phone up for a replacement these days, though. And finally some Militia from Urban War/Void: Really need to finish the bases on these guys, but I'm not sure what I want. Might give them some resin ones at some point (cause I'm a bit lazy like that). I actually painted these guys using only the colours that came in a Vallejo starter set, it was a fun little challenge, particularly getting the denim colour right. Well, that's it for now, comments and thrown pottery welcome as always.
  23. Come one come all to the First Bones swap meet! Have you received your Vampire package but wish you had a few less elves and a few more Dwarves? (and really who hasn't) Why not come down to Heroes Haven on May 11th? We'll be starting at 2pm and keep going until they kick us out. Besides the Bones trading there will be a paint area and a game of Warlord "King of the Hill" address and link to the stores Face book page Heroes Haven Games & collectibles 1277 Lexington Ave., Mansfield, Ohio 44907 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Heroes-Haven-Games-Collectibles/264820141624?ref=stream&viewer_id=0 We hope to see you there
  24. So, here are the latest Bones miniatures I've been working on while waiting for the KS box. First, the Great Worm. Not a lot of detail here, but I got to use my old Ral Partha Paints "Mind Flayer Mauve" and "Cormyr Purple": Next, they say a work of art is never finished, but merely abandoned. Here are my latest abandoned progeny: And some kobolds: And here are a few non-Bones conversions. See if you can figure out what anime character I was trying for with this one: Two more models used for PCs: And finally, a non-Reaper altogether. I wanted a fallen angel, so I went with a Roman soldier and added some wings:
  25. Finally got the minotaur finished. This one took me a long time as I haven't had a lot of opportunities to paint recently (hooray for jury duty and 3 week trial...) In addition, after I was unhappy with the metallics on my bugbear, I figured it was time to try NMM. I'm very happy with the steel NMM, particularly on the axe. I did the cleaver first, and I could already tell I was improving when I worked on the axe. I think the gold trim didn't work as well, although it still looks good enough to sell the effect. This guy is a monster for mold lines. I thought I cleaned them up but as I was painting they kept jumping out at me...oh well. The basing is probably an odd choice for a minotaur, but they have to come out of the dungeons at some point, right? I thought the green would bring some needed color to the figure since the body is so dark. C&C welcome.
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