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  1. So, here are the latest Bones miniatures I've been working on while waiting for the KS box. First, the Great Worm. Not a lot of detail here, but I got to use my old Ral Partha Paints "Mind Flayer Mauve" and "Cormyr Purple": Next, they say a work of art is never finished, but merely abandoned. Here are my latest abandoned progeny: And some kobolds: And here are a few non-Bones conversions. See if you can figure out what anime character I was trying for with this one: Two more models used for PCs: And finally, a non-Reaper altogether. I wanted a fallen angel, so I went with a Roman soldier and added some wings:
  2. Finally got the minotaur finished. This one took me a long time as I haven't had a lot of opportunities to paint recently (hooray for jury duty and 3 week trial...) In addition, after I was unhappy with the metallics on my bugbear, I figured it was time to try NMM. I'm very happy with the steel NMM, particularly on the axe. I did the cleaver first, and I could already tell I was improving when I worked on the axe. I think the gold trim didn't work as well, although it still looks good enough to sell the effect. This guy is a monster for mold lines. I thought I cleaned them up but as I was painting they kept jumping out at me...oh well. The basing is probably an odd choice for a minotaur, but they have to come out of the dungeons at some point, right? I thought the green would bring some needed color to the figure since the body is so dark. C&C welcome.
  3. Hi there, so I have happily come to peace with the understanding that I will be the last human on the face of the earth to receive the Kickstarter stuff, and while waiting for those four paint sets I can just keep using craft paint. Actually, it would be great if the actual last person got a note in their box saying they were last, wouldn't it? Meanwhile, this minotaur is not as good as others. Please ignore the terrible attempt at NMM. Also, the join lines which I didn't fix. Also, the mold lines I missed. Cheers!
  4. Finally got around to doing up a few Bones pieces. Also a few BattleTech pieces for you. As always, thoughts, opinions, and thrown pottery welcome. Reaper Bones - Skeletal Archers Reaper Bones - Skeletal Spearmen Reaper Bones - Skeletal Swordsmen BattleTech - 25mm Elemental BattleTech - Mad Cat
  5. stopped into goblins tonight to pickup some paint for my troll and low and behold one of the employees runs across the back parking lot and grabs me by the shoulders and shakes me while telling me that first of their bones have arrived. excuse the glare, the store faces directly into the sun. I refrained from tearing them open with my teeth. So here's the cool part, the owner wasn't worried about making a profit on this box so he said I can have it for the base cost of the vampire level (+tax ) I texted my friend and decided we are going to split the vampire between us for $50 a pop tomorrow when we go in for our Wednesday game.
  6. I only learned about Reaper Miniatures in February and ordered my first Bones minis in March and I love them. I recently learned about the Kickstarter project that ran last year and I can't believe what everyone is getting for a $100 contribution. IS THERE ANY WAY TO GET IN ON THAT DEAL? Sadly, I know I'm a day late and a dollar short but I felt I needed to at least ask. My real question is, does anyone know when the Kickstarter pieces will actually be available to buy on the website? I see a few of them are listed under “previews” to be released this month and I'm all set to be notified when they are. But what about all the other pieces in the Kickstarter Vampire Level (like the Griffon) will they be released this month too or later?
  7. I have a game that I'm going to on the 17th this month. I have to drive for over two hours to get to the location so having a few durable Bones for the journey would be perfect. I did two separate Kickstarters. One is Vampire plus one of every dragon and then some. I hold little hope for this making it to my door in time. The 2nd one is a lot smaller; Vampire and a bunch of giants and elementals as add-ons (no large dragons). I’m hoping the 2nd one will make it. Does anyone have a clue where things are at? Is there even a small hope for me? ~ S ~
  8. I am prouder of the "maid of hearts" (right). I have to work her into a campaign, as PC or NPC. till cant get the eyes right.
  9. So when I went in on the Kickstarter, I never intended to actually paint any of them -- I figured I'd just use them as basic unpainted minis, because hey, for that price, why not. But when I had the pile of plastic sitting in front of me, and saw how much gorgeous detail there was on them, I discovered that I wanted to do something with them. So I bought the Learn to Paint Kit 1, did both the minis in that (which you can see in the WIP thread, if you're curious for whatever reason), and then started in on the Bones. My very first "freehand" mini was a space Marine in Packer colors. I have no gaming use for a space Marine, so figured it was safe to "ruin" if it came to that. I had some trouble with the yellow paint (I'm using Vallejo Game Color stuff, plus the Reaper paint that came with the LTPK; honestly, I prefer the Reaper stuff by a good margin, and will probably just buy that going forward); I used a dark walnut wash over the whole figure, which I realized in retrospect made his face look weird and undead; and using flat gray as a contrast color adjacent to gunmetal metallic gray didn't work out very well. But still and all, I painted a mini All By Myself, and it doesn't look hideous, so I was pleased. Next up, Lord Stoutpants McBearderson. This mini is just dripping with detail, and was really fun to do. The part that was the most interesting to me was realizing how hard it is to "read" the clothes on an unpainted mini. It wasn't clear to me if he was wearing an open-faced "kilt" or a jacket; if the jacket had sleeves; if the collar was part of the jacket or part of the shirt; etc. I like the choices I made (red sleeveless jacket over a popped-collar long sleeved linen tunic over bloomers), though. And I remembered to do different washes on different parts, so the linen shirt and face got an "intense brown" wash, and most of the rest of it got the walnut wash. That worked like I hoped, with the bonus that I put the intense brown wash on his black pants (they'd been intended to be charcoal, but my paint mixing failed me -- more white, I guess?), and it brought out some detail that was hidden in the flat black. My primary disappoint with him was the beard -- I tried drybrushing red over a brown base, to get interesting depth, and it mostly just came out flat. The next mini, it was late, I'd had some wine, and I wanted something easy and unchallenging, so skeleton it is. I hesitated for a while deciding between "bone white" and "dead white" and ultimately decided on a 1:1 mix, which I think was reasonable. Nothing fancy at all on this mini, it's kind of the opposite of the previous one that way. And finally, my... yuan-ti? naga? Snake-person, let's say. I hadn't been satisfied with any of the drybrushing I'd tried to do on anything since the rat mini from LTPK1, so I wanted to try it on something with more texture. It worked... pretty well? I overloaded the brush, or pressed too hard, in a couple of places; but for the most part, it did what I wanted, adding a bright highlight color to darker base colors. I also enjoyed doing some of the detail work here. I have no hand at all for that kind of work, but thanks to the miracles of a wet palette, I was able to keep all the relevant paints ready to hand, to fix any slip-ups easily enough. I know that all this is pretty unimpressive to those of you who've been making fancy display-quality minis. But before I did that first Learn to Paint Kit, I would have sworn up and down that there was no way I could do any of the stuff you see here, so I'm pretty pleased with it all. Next step is to learn some more of these post-beginner techniques, toward which end I have the rest of the LTPKs ordered. The nice thing with this Bones kickstarter is, I've got literally hundreds of minis sitting here, so I don't need to worry about thoughts like "oh, I shouldn't paint that yet, I'll do a much better job later." If I paint these things now, and they look worse than the things I paint later, well, a) it's good to have a visual record of that, b) I've still got more minis than I could paint in a year sitting there, so nothing lost, and c) it seems to me that one of the better ways to improve is to just paint a lot, get experience, and look at what you've done with a critical eye toward improving the next one. Toward which end, any comments or suggestions?
  10. My deliciously evil partner in crime, currently studying for her Masters in Fine Art, has been taken by Figmentia! I foolishly suggested that she might like to try her hand at painting some miniatures with me and I've created a monster! A Monster in Fine Art, if you will! Although, painting with someone is very fun : ) Behold, her first ever mini, and weep! WEEP! And here's a quick shot of her second: I feel completely inadequate to give her any advice, given that her brush strokes are so much more precise than mine. Any thoughts, oh people who know what the hell they're doing?
  11. Sanael

    VCR challenge

    One of the very fun things at Reapercon was the VCR Challenge. Noel (GuyWithCoolBackpack) has posted some photos that include shots of the challenge in progress and on display. Basically, we were handed a few old bits of electronica, some screwdrivers, and some minis. This is what I made. The mini is the bones version of the sweeping lady from #2825 Townsfolk, and the base is the laser apparatus from a DVD player. When I saw the mini, I knew I needed a lens for her to clean, so I was glad to see the DVD player in the pile. I painted her in a little over an hour, which is why I'm quite pleased with how she came out. At work here, you can see rough-and-tumble usage of techniques learned earlier in the con from Rhonda Bender (Basic Blending class) and Michael Genet (Weathering). The con was awesome, and the classes were The Best Thing Ever.
  12. Here are the Bones Minotaur: and rats: and something not Bones, but with lots of boney spines:
  13. Hi all, Trying to get my current backlog I brought with me to NY painted down so that I am ready for the Bones stuff incoming sometime in June I expect. First up Barrow Wights! Manufacturer: Games-Workshop System: Lord of the Rings Scale: 25mm
  14. Trying this out. I ordered a vampire and 1 case, and recieved them on the 11th of April. I havnt painted in deccades, but here are what I have done so far. It takes me about 2 hours to paint 2.5 mini's faster for kobolds. any suggestions welcome
  15. Last night a box of Bones from the Kickstarter arrived at my door, I was so excited until I read who it was addressed to. It turns out a friend of mine sent his Bones to me because he was moving to Russia. So now I have this box sitting on a table that I can't open. My orders has a bunch of extras, I guess his didn't, that's why I got his first. Who knows when mine will show.... so tempting... ~ S ~
  16. Hey everyone, I'm going to make cards for all the characters and monsters from the Bones Kickstarter as I paint them. Here are some prototypes I have mocked up in preparation. If you could give some critique on layout and colors (illustrations are not done by me) - that would be great. Here are monster card mockups.
  17. So, since the start of the month I've been obsessively checking the forums for news on the Bonenami. I've been checking here, on the Kickstarter page, on Dakkadakka, and the forum where I first heard of the Kickstarter. I've ordered figures from Reaper so I'll have something to do, which lead to ordering the Learn to Paint Kits to get some paints ahead of the oncoming wave, just so I'd have something to distract myself. I'm constantly hitting F5 waiting for news that shipping has started, or that Bryan has been crushed under an avalanche of Kaladraxii, or that the Vampires have arisen from the warehouse crypt and are wrecking havoc with the Reaper staff as they prepare for the mammoth task of shipping. And it's getting worse the closer we get to the end of the month. Is this just me, or is the suspense getting to other people as well? Are there any coping mechanisms we can share other than rocking backwards and forwards in a trilobite curl on the ground muttering 'Soooooooooooooon' repeatedly to ourselves? Because I've got that one down pat. On a side note - I did want to thank the Reaper staff for getting me back into the hobby after 20 years out. I'd forgotten how oddly calming it is to sit down with a figure and start painting : )
  18. Hi there. Thought I would post a couple of pics of my first ever Bones figure, an Ogre, for C&C from the comunity. The skin tone is an experiment and I am not sure that it isn't too dark red. Anyone any suggestions on painting ogre fingernails? Still got the highlighting of the details along with various brass and bronze bits.
  19. Hi, I'm looking for miniatures for players and NPC's (humans, half-elves, elves, dwarves, halflings, the occasional half-orc). I play both D&D and Pathfinder, on either a 1" grid or a 1" hex. Reaper's Pathfinder miniatures will, obviously, suit my purpose. My question is, can I mix them with miniatures from the warlord set and the bones set? I'm guessing their relative sizes will be correct, because they are all a 25mm scale. But will their bases fit together on the 1" grid/hex? Sorry if this has been asked before, I could not find an answer. Cheers, Barak.
  20. I'm not the best photagrapher (or painter), but here is myy collection of Reaper Bones so far: Not shown are a few from the 2012 Origins paint and take.
  21. Here's my take on the bugbear. This is my first real re-basing attempt. In the past, I have done some really minor basing onto square tiles, but I spent quite a bit more time on this one. I cut off most of the broccoli base, and glued him to a Proxie Model circular base. I used some modeling paste to fill in the base, and then various ballasts for texture. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, although I learned a lot for future attempts; most notably, base a few models at the same time, should speed the process up quite a bit. This is also the first time I have tried dark lining. I saw how effective Buglips uses it in his WIP thread, so I decided to give it a try. I am undecided whether I like it or not. I used Reaper MSP Brown Liner. Very little of it actually made it through to the final product, but you can see it in a few areas. I found the base skin layer took quite a bit longer, as extra coats were required to cover up the liner that slopped over where it shouldn't. My metallics still suck. I need to figure out a method to improve them as I have yet to be very happy with any of the weapons I've done. I get a bit lost trying to figure out where to highlight on a weapon like this guy's spiked club. I've got the Bones minotaur in progress now, hopefully I can get him done before the Bones invasion lands. C&C welcome!
  22. In this thread, Reaperbryan mentioned that he was having trouble getting detail when photographing the translucent Bones figures. I made some suggestions there, but I decided to do a few experiments, and this thread is the result. Principles: Transparent and translucent subjects are a bit tricky to photograph. There's an old adage* in photography that, "Light reveals; shadows define". Translucents under even light have almost no shadows, so there is no definition and thus no detail. In many ways this is similar to painting OSL or NMM. You need to put light where you need it for highlights without killing the shadows that provide the shapes you're trying to show. Now, not being Reaper meeple, I don't have any of the Reaper Bones Translucents to shoot, so I decided to make do with a mostly unpainted D&D mini that I had around. For reference, this seems to have been washed with a couple of colors, which does enhance the appearance of the figure. The only post processing is cropping to remove dead space and an automatic lens correction to correct optical aberrations. Here are the results: D&D Miniatures Caller in Darkness Technique: 1) Backdrop: A sheet of white seamless paper. In this case, it was an offcut from a full roll of seamless (like this), but it would have worked just fine with any white paper. 2) Fill light: Translucent and transparent subjects usually work well when backlit. In this case, I used a speedlight (Lumopro LP-160, if you care) aimed at the backdrop and snooted (black craft foam cylinder attached to the light) to keep most direct light off of the figures. The backlight shows the inherent colors of the figure well. The light was at 1/16 power, about 18" from the backdrop behind the figure, and camera right approximately level with the figure. 3) Key light: To get shape and detail, I added a second light pointed directly at the figure. This light was another LP-160, also at 1/16 power, about 9" from the figure, shooting through a Lumiquest LQ-III mini-softbox. (Much the same light could have been obtained by using translucent paper in front of the light, but the softbox makes things easy.) I tried several different positions, but ended up preferring camera left, level with the table, about midway between camera and subject. Note that different figures might look best with different key light positions. You would probably do well to move the key around to see what looks best for the figure you're shooting. Note that none of the positions I chose were similar to the position of a pop-up flash. Pop-ups are almost directly on-axis with the lens, which results in very flat lighting, which is exactly the opposite of what we need. 4) Room light: I chose an aperture and shutter speed that killed the ambient completely. When the speedlights were not shooting, I got a nearly completely black frame even though there was standard dining room light directly over the subjects. This makes it easy to work and easy to control the lights that will actually be seen. For reference, I was shooting at ISO 400, 1/250 second, at F/16-ish after sunset. Cheaper version: If you don't have a camera that can shoot fully manual and a suite of photographic lighting equipment, you can get much the same results with a point-and-shoot camera and a couple of desklamps. In that case, you'll probably want to shoot in a mostly dark room, set the lights in about the same configuration I used here, and use a much longer exposure. I chose to use a tripod here, though it really only gained me a consistent camera position, because the flash duration is so short. When shooting with much dimmer continuous lights (and trust me, all continuous lights are much dimmer than strobes), you will need to stabilize your camera, probably with a tripod. But definitely do not use a lightbox with very even lighting, or you'll get flat photos that don't show any detail. Finally, here are a couple of BTS (Behind The Scenes) shots to help illustrate what I was using. You can see the two speedlights to left and right and the tripod in front of the table. The first was shot with the same settings as the figures: The second shot shows the room with the camera adjusted to show the ambient light and the strobes turned off. (If the strobes were on, the center of the image would be completely blown out.) Here you can see the lights on either side of the figure and the tripod (sans camera) near the edge of the table at left: * FWIW, I read it first from Rick Sammon, who might have even said it first. But he's been saying it for a long time, so it's now an old adage.
  23. This is my first attempt at painting a Bones figure. I admit that I chickened out and did a light spray of white primer on the model before painting. Painting this figure has been a pleasure (especially with the light weight). I haven't noticed any drop off in quality, difficulty of painting, or and special care that I needed to engage...as compared to a metal Reaper model. I like using trolls in and around swamp terrain so I painted him with that motif, and I took the time to base him properly before posting pics this time. :) DISCLAIMER: The right hand (over his head) IS in fact a more putrid/different color than the rest of the miniature. This particular troll recently had a run in with a group of adventurers and it cost him his hand, but he survived and is currently regenerating his limb. I also painted the two large pods on his back as though he's carrying a couple of his babies around after having mated a few weeks back.
  24. While I still wait for my kickstarter Bones to arrive, I got a chance to pick up a free Bones ghost at a paint-and-take at MAG-con last weekend. I was inspired to do a greenish color scheme by Paizo/Wizkid's Festering Spirit. I was only able to get as far as base-coating him with a yellow-green mix at the con before I had to rush off to GM my assigned slots. I had real problems with the paint sticking to the mini, probably as a result of not having a chance to wash it prior to painting. After the con, I took him home and gave him a bit of a wash, followed by a second base-coat of darker green. The hands and face got a white base-coat to help the wash coat stick later, while the tombstone got metallic silver, as I was broke and lazy and it was the closest I had to a stone grey. This was followed by a black ink wash coat for the whole thing, then a gloss sealer. I find this sealer generally tends to leave things too shiny, but in this case gave him a nice sickly, oily sheen. Some starting difficulties aside, It was wonderful to work with a Bones mini for the first time, and I look forward to many more one my kickstarter reward gets here.
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