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Found 2853 results

  1. This might have been answered earlier (I looked but couldnt find anything) i recently got some new bones and i threw afew of them in boiling water while soft i put them in the stance I wanted, then I put them in a bowl of ice water and put it in the freezer for a few hours. I thought it had worked perfectly but after left out for a day they just go back to normal. My question is how do you change the stance of bones for good?
  2. Just got my Sophie, comes in six parts: front wheel, front of bike, back of bike, Sophie's main body, and the two wings - should be easy to green stuff in the wing slots if you just want a "biker girl." Model looks great, but there is a fairly large gap where the wheel part meets the front of the bike part that will need some green stuff to fill in so that the tire segments line up correctly. The model can stand without a base even if you use just the bike and Sophie body without wings (but the wings help). You might need to gently push the handle bars around a bit to get Sophie into the proper seating position. Overall, a great model, can't wait to start painting it! Here is a size comparison:
  3. This is the mini I chose to do when they first announced the Halloween contest. I picked him because I wanted to mess around with the bones some, I've never done a ghost/ethereal creature, and they show up periodically in my home campaign, maybe even frequently. The first shot is the stock photo. The second and third shot is where I gave him a light priming to see the mold lines better and based him. All mold lines should be gone at this point. I will say the mold lines on these guys are a pain IMO compared to the metal minis. I also don't how light they are. There's something satisfying about a heavy mini in your hand. Well, I've purchased a lot of them, so I'll be very in tune with what I like and don't like about them. :P I would like lots of questions, lots of comments, and lots of what I could do to make it better. Thank you!
  4. So I picked up a few new jars of paint Tuesday and took a crack at my gnoll and here's what i have so far, Im having a little trouble with lighting today so it's kind of hard to see the tarnished effect on the right arm. I'm not entirely happy with the leather straps but with a limited paint selection you have to make due. DSCN0068 by Color out of space, on Flickr DSCN0064 by Color out of space, on Flickr DSCN0059 by Color out of space, on Flickr that's the best shot i could get that shows the green wash on the right arm. DSCN0070 by Color out of space, on Flickr
  5. Here is a third Bones I painted with cheap craft paint. Like others, I find the mould lines on this guy a bit of a challenge, and in the end I didn't manage to get all of them off perfectly, particularly spots on his arms. But I enjoyed painting him. I will be back to painting metal after this, until March/April, when the deluge of plastic will begin (and I'll get to learn how to use better paint!) Cheers.
  6. Here's my entry for the scenic base part of the Halloween contest. I opted to create a scene in which a werewolf is stalking amongst the soft muddy ground of a field of crops. He leaves only the faintest of impressions in the mud with his long claws. I wanted to give the impression that he's slowly bending down the grass (or crops) and is captured in the instant just as his body is rushing into motion, so I dangled the saliva at a slight angle to help with that impression. I used green stuff on the base to try and create a muddy ground in appearance, and added the claw marks. I considered trying to get more extravagant with the impressions, but here in Georgia the red clay is pretty tough earth so I left it at his claw impressions. I did the faintest streak of white across both his eyes which I painted black b/c I really wanted this guy to have the eyes of a killer. With all the werewolf/vampire (wuss) love stories in our culture today, my goal was to have a werewolf that looked like he meant business. I also opted to paint his distal extremities a darker color than his fur b/c I saw a dog with that feature recently and really thought it looked cool. I learned a lot painting this fellow, and think that my skin/fur tone and blending is finally getting to a place with which I'm happy.
  7. Lava Worm!! Having been inspired by all of the BONES Worms lately I devised a number of variations and decided on two of them (outside of the traditional Purple Worm). The first you see below. I would very much like to give thanks to MonkeySloth for sharing with us the DISTRESS Crackle Paint. You can check out his tutorial on Ice Bases here.
  8. I was inspired by the thoughtful comments on my last post to give another Bones a go -- again, painting with Americana Acrylic craft paints. I didn't prime this figure but found that the purple, yellow and red base coats, which I thin with flow aid, went on very translucent and the white plastic shines through, so it needs another thin base coat before shading and highlighting. But then I tend to do that with miniatures primed white anyway, as I am usually not in a hurry. I am thinking of putting on a base coat of grey acrylic on a bones to see if that helps. The part of this miniature I like least is the sword -- it's crooked, for one thing, and seems disproportionately big for the figure. I worked at getting the mould lines off and it was worth the trouble. Just takes some getting used to the soft plastic. I was definitely influenced by other recent posts of this figure (thanks!) but tried not to be too derivative in the end. Cheers. EDIT: added two cropped photos, as per request.
  9. This is a Bones kobold from the speed paint at Reapercon this year. He's maybe half an inch tall and was completed in 45 minutes.
  10. Aside from plotting which figures will be getting the first splashes of paint, I've spent a good bit time thinking about which will go under the blade. The main fantasy archetype that seems to be missing to me is a monk PC. The minis that I think might have some potential for a monk conversion are: the crouching ranger from heroes, the gnome wizard from the new 30, the male pirate hoisting the treasure chest, the hellborn wizard, and Juliette. The issue is that most of the humanoid adventurer types are heavily armored. I could also see robbing the wood elf sergeant of the top of his bow and turning him into a druid type, and I am planning to cobble a baby cockatrice out of familiar bits. Any ideas for my monk quest? What conversions have you begun to plot?
  11. I looked to see if this question had been asked and answered but I couldn't find anything around or in the FAQ on the KS so, apologies if it has been asked an I'm just blind... Will the miniatures from the Kicstarter come with the alternate pieces that the original metal mini's have? For example the Rosie, Chronotechnician can either be wielding a rifle or a giant wrench. Will the Bones that come from the Kickstarter have these alternate bits?
  12. So I was really excited after the Kickstarter ended .. so I picked up the only Bones mini I could find! Please be kind I haven't even been painting for a year yet .. so i am still learning. Please excuse his unfinished base too. :) I have to say I am even MORE excited to get all the Kickstarter figures now. Okie! I worked on finishing the base today and snapped a couple of different images. :) Front Back I think my biggest challenge is still highlighting. I welcome notes :)
  13. I painted this guy up for my DnD campeign. i have a couple of things i need to touch up(toenails are missing paint, back bottom boil flowed over when doing the wet blending, and for some reason i Dont think you can tell from the pictures, his loin cloth is super shiny. needless to say this brought about many a cod piece/loin cloth joke at my gaming table. But since they were all new players it took them a while to figure out how to get the troll to stop coming back from being mostly dead. C&C welcome!
  14. So first off, some little white specs of dust or something got on my mini just prior to sealing, and I failed to notice. I'm quite annoyed. The camera of course makes them more visible than the naked eye; it's a bummer. Didn't do anything special with this guy's base, just some basic, "I'll be adventuring today" basing. As with all the Bones miniatures I've painted, I haven't noticed any major difference in quality than the metals. In fact, I think they take paint a little more graciously. I decided to make the flat circular portion of the sword's hilt a gemstone and painted both sides accordingly. I also wanted his brown leather to look well worn, so I took some of the highlights a little more than I might have normally. C&C welcome.
  15. It seemed appropriate (not to mention easier) to go with the skeletons for my first attempt at painting bones. I'd like to get a better close-up, but my camera won't focus any closer than this (I've a Nikon Coolpix L19). As you can probably tell, I went a little crazy with washes this time around. I started off painting them a nice solid Uthuan Grey from the citadel paints I got. Next came a wash of Reaper's Walnut Brown, to bring out the details. It was a little too strong on one of them, so he also got a wash of Reaper's Pure White on top of that. Then they got a wash of Ushati Bone, to give them a bit of yellow, some dry-brushing with Pure White and then finally Citadel's Agrax Earthshade to give them that just-crawled-out-of-the-grave look. Or at least, that was the intention. I think they ended up a little too dirty, and the white ended up a bit too blotchy in places. Need to work on my dry-brushing skills. The shields were painted with Citadel's Leadbelcher, with the rims and central button done with Reaper's True Silver. Some Earthshade was used to make the shields look older, less shiny. The spears were painted with Reaper's Intense Brown, with a wash of Walnut Brown to make the stripes. Just the hafts took probably the longest of any part of this project, because I forgot that you're not supposed to thin out the first layer onto the plastic. The one time I remember to thin my paints... The heads of the spears were painted with True Silver. I tried to use a wash of Reaper's Carnage Red with the Earthshade to give them a rusted look, but I don't think it quite turned out as I was hoping. The eyes are also Carnage Red, and I used the wash around them to try and give them a "glowing" look. Sadly, I think it looks more like they're all cosplaying as Raphael. Ah well. At least I know that method won't work. Have to keep experimenting. You can get a better look at my failed attempt at rust here, as well as a decent shot of the straps. The fasteners on the straps were done with a spot of True Silver. I used a 3/0 brush I picked up at Michael's to get them done. Hard to see here, but I think that's actually the best looking part of the models.
  16. Another mini done. This time I tried a little more with shading. I decided to finally give the grass green color from my Learn to Paint kit a go, and it formed the base coat for the troll. It may have been a little too bright, in hindsight. Mixed blue and green for the hair. Did some highlights by mixing the green with tanned skin. I wish I'd had some yellow to work with. I think that might have shown up better. You can't really see it in any of these pictures, but I lined the more obvious veins with black. I figured that would work well with the green skin. A look at the back. I added some black here and there to mottle the skin a bit more. There was also a wash with citadel's Caliban Green. The claws were done with a more-or-less even mix of Carnage Red and Sapphire Blue. I'm not totally satisfied with the base. I was trying for a swamp look, with a tanned leather/intense brown mix with green on top. I think it would have looked better if I'd reversed it. Given a root system look. Not much to say for this side. I probably did too much of the wash on the foot there. Looks almost like I lined it. Here you can see my attempt at the eyes. I had trouble getting the eyes to really stand out. Red just seemed too obvious, black was too subdued, and white looked off. I ended up going with basic white with little black dots. Not great, and not well accomplished, but at least you can tell there are eyes there. Y'know, if you squint, and pretend.
  17. n3rd

    Base sizes

    I'm sure this information is somewhere, but if it is, I'm apparently not smart enough to find it :-) Simple question: how big are the Bones miniatures? I've pledged a bunch of money to get a set of Bones miniatures in order to use them as proxies for the conversion kit monsters for Descent 2E, and while it isn't absolutely important that they match in size, it would still be good to know whether they do or not. For instance, the Frost Wyrm looks like a fantastic proxy for Descent's Ice Worm. However, I can't quite tell whether the Bones miniature has a two-by-two base (certainly looks like it, but its much less clear for some of the other miniatures). Bottom line: What's the standard base size (if any) for 1x1, 1x2 and 2x2 Bones miniatures? How can I find out what miniature has what (intended) base size? Thanks a bunch in advance.
  18. My take on the Purple Wyrm 77006: Speed paint of Ghost 77007, I have bent this guy to heck and back, no damage to the paint job:
  19. There are a few of the sculpts out there that I'd have liked to have seen multiples of - is there a chance to have them added to the pledge manager tool as extras? Example - the Direwolf figure. IF you add that to the Pledge Manager, I'm likely to add 3 to 4 more to my order within my current 'spend'. The wraith with sword? Heck, will take another 2 of those etc. Make the price at $1 each (more expensive that the current average of 40-50 cents each), or maybe $1.50. Also how about the idea of including some of the current range - use the current pricing if you wish (though I'd not say no to a discount on that :D) but it saves a lot of hassle and shipment if you can just make a mega order of the new and current and send it out in one hit and again, taps into those who have already spent but want MORE... Hopefully either or both of these ideas will get more of your products to your new customers AND get you some extra revenue. Edit: Additional idea? Anyone wanting to use these options to get additional singles OR current range? Simply say that this option is for any customers willing to let their order ship April instead of March - gives you guys some breathing space otherwise March will simply be hell.
  20. Seems like a separate thread about Swords and Wizardry might be a good thing, being as some of us are going to be getting that bad boy at some point. I've played it. I rather like it. It's essentially open source Original Dungeons and Dragons. Here's hoping I can get the link to my Tumblr to work.... I don't COMPLETELY agree with the diagram; S&W is a considerable cleanup and tightening of the original, horribly written Three Book Boxed Set. It really has more in common with the Red Book and Blue Book Basic D&D editions. But it's a fine piece of work that very much captures the old style. I'd recommend it for anyone interested in the Old School Renaissance.
  21. Hello! Someone had mentioned what to do with new minis and any Ideas for adventures and such. Great Idea! Here it is! I am writing an adventure where the BBEG is a gnome alchemist. Escapes early on, creates the mechanical APE to punish the heroes, and then he finishes up with the creation of a clockwork dragon to do them in. May add more to it depending on what else we get :)
  22. what kind of glue has been used on bones, and what are the results? bones to bases? bones to bones? for conversions and the like... I have a feeling Ill be doing a LOT of conversions :)
  23. Hi all, At Origins this year, I interviewed Johnny, one of the Reaper Booth Babes, about Reaper's new Bones models. We tested their durability and Johnny answered some questions about the future of the line. In the near future, I plan on painting up a Bones Ghost to see how well it takes paint.
  24. These two miniatures were speed painted, about 30 minutes total brush time each, then simply glued to a 50mm base and flocked. Its not awesome work, but its fast and effective enough on the game table.
  25. These kobolds were speed painted (no more than 20 minutes per figure) and turned out ok for game table use. There is nothing fancy about them, its all about the practicality of getting 12 minis painted as quickly as possible.
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