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A few years ago, I did this: And documented it here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/73045-log-cabin/ In the course of unpacking my stuff, I came across a couple more of these kits that I had bought at the same time. I've decided to go ahead and make some more scenery/terrain and tie it all together as a wilderness/frontier settlement. Most of the buildings will be made using this kit, but they're not all going to be the same. I've got a few ideas I came up with as well as some inspiration I found on the internet that I will put my interpretation on. In my head, this little settlement is way out on the very fringes of civilization; building materials would be wood (trees) and stone. I want it to look like a little village carved out the surrounding forest. I have some nicer buildings in my collection, but I'll use them for a different project. This is going to be simple, cheap and cheerful, beer and pretzels gaming terrain. I think it'll be fun to build and add details to. I'm (probably) not going to revisit this guy other than to add a little more vegetation, but the ones I build from here on out I want to try to add a little more detail to them.

Medieval Tavern I like the look of this, but I'm not sure I need more buildings.

Medieval Farmhouses It's only PWYW for one of the houses. The set is a bit more.

I thought my post-zombie apoc town could do with a charity shop. Dogs Trust is a real charity, and the building's colours are based on the store in the English town where I used to live.

Building by Atomic Laser Cut Designs, painted as a local newspaper office. It's for my post-apoc zombie setup. Painted with texture spray paint, craft paint, Vallejo and Citadel acrylics.

Started painting my Townhouse from Tabletop World. Scale 75 Inktense Wood.

I've been wanting a few quick space saving buildings for war gaming. I decided to make a few false fronts, but use a simplified biscuit (instead of a tab like many paper models) to make them free standing. Rolling out the brick pattern would help. These would be for my foam boards (insert link here sometime). But it turns out my plan of 3 row buildings (8.25x 6 )with separate corner pieces isn't going to fit. Need to decide whether to split up into 2 building pieces (5.5 in long x 6 in high) or do corner and 1 building and have them connect. I also now need figure out whether to plan for an alley when I didn't in my boards. Hmm. Stay tuned.

After a painting hiatus of a couple of weeks, I sat down this morning and finished off this SOLID resin building from Apocalypse Miniatures. As best I can tell, the roofing is supposed to be sawn sections of log, but, as with some of my previous buildings, I don’t necessarily want the roof to be faded to a gray indistinguishable from the stone work, so it’s a “wargame conventional brown”. So, the village progresses. This is #3 of 10 of what I got in the Apocalypse Kickstarter, and 4 of 12 of the resin building upgrade project (with Tabletop World providing the other two). I hope to have them on the table in a battle soon.

I haven’t really been getting a lot of painting done, but I sat down at my painting desk the other day and noticed that I had two buildings sitting over in one corner, neglected for a couple of months, and decided to start adding paint. This one is from Apocalypse Miniatures. They ran a Kickstarter back in 2017, and my brother and I both ended up backing this. In my case, I backed it to the extent of 10 buildings, of which this is the second I have finished. The first was back in November. In general, this wasn’t too bad to paint. The little detail bits molded into the base look nice in the pictures, but I would really prefer that they were not sculpted in; it detracts from the flexibility of the building somewhat. Sizewise, these are a little small for Reaper figures, and are probably intended for a 28mm scale (e.g. Metal Magic, mid-period Citadel, later Ral Partha), but that’s always negotiable when deploying scenery. This building is a SOLID block of resin, so the game will be played around it rather than through it, and I would as soon buildings in that mode be a bit underscale anyway. When I say solid, I put it on my kitchen scale, and it’s just a bit over two pounds (935g for those in countries with sensible measurement systems). You wouldn’t want to drop it on your toe. As for the building name, that’s how it is spelled on their web site...

This is something I started working on a looong time ago. I finally made the push to get it done and get it out--probably donating it to one of the FLGSs. WIP here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/87566-ruined-building-terrain-pic-heavy-ish/ I wasn't trying to get too, too fancy with this. Rather I began with the intent to see how quickly I could make a good enough piece of terrain. Had I not taken a year-long hiatus from it I may have succeeded, as I think that barring drying times I have around. You can see a Bones skele or to lurking around for scale. I was having a challenging time with my camera and the lighting (room is kind of in disarray at the moment), so I have a few different exposures here. Had a lot of fun with the fiddly bits like the graffiti, wire conduit, and dead plants. In the fist and second pics you can even see one of my new backgrounds in the...background--too bad I made it for a standard mini, not a large building. Questions, comments, critiques welcome!

I decided to add a new level to my games and step it up with scale models, I started to build some of the models for Dragon Heist. I thought the ware house from chapter one came out nicely. Here are some pics. I used foam core and stained some balsa and bass wood, then carved some extra pieces from insulation foam. I used plaster for the walls and the base layers for the outside yard. I printed some generic crates to fill the ware house.

I thought I would start my own Frostgrave terrain thread, since I started on my second ruin this week, and don't see my self stopping anytime soon. And, I didn't want to keep posting links in David's excellent Frostgrave terrain thread found here, http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/65272-frostgrave-terrain/ , and detract from his efforts. For those that missed it, I already posted my first ruin here in the Frostgrave thread in the Fantasy sub-forum: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/63635-frostgrave/?p=1252554 This week, I thought I'd take things to another level and try my hand at a two-story ruin... Two improvements I wanted to try this week were to add more debris on to the base; and to mount the building on a squared base to help it feel more like an urban building. The main structure is made from cork tiles, and the extra details are made with balsa and bass wood. IMG_5605 by cnjpalmer IMG_5606 by cnjpalmer

Hello! This is my first post, and I am a complete noob at painting and miniatures. My friends have finally got me started on Pathfinder after trying for awhile, and I decided I needed to paint my own figure. It's kind of snowballing and I'm getting into other stuff. Anyway, I wanted to try painting a building, and I love new technology. So I decided to try a 3D printed building to help bring more flavor to the game. I started with a test build from the company Via Ludibunda, and wasn't impressed with the scale or the paintability from the hub I chose. I now have the Winterdale 2 Tavern from printablescenery.com. Their photo they use to sell it is thus: It looks nice. But obviously it was done with a more realistic bent to work with WWII wargaming. I tend to focus more on the fantasy aspect, and have decided to go in the style of Final Fantasy IX buildings. Like this: I got the model yesterday from Emeraldcitymaker.com(An on demand 3D printing company), and it turns out I'm missing a piece. The straw roof over the stable wasn't included with the packet I bought from printablescenery and am waiting for them to send it. In the meantime, I started with planning out the inside. This is the model put together with my Anirion figure. The yellow building on the right is the demo building I printed and painted from Via Ludibunda. I learned a lot doing it. PLA plastic soaks up paint like nobodys business. I had to do almost 5 coats of yellow to make the yellow stick. You absolutely do not want to put a light coating over a dark one, or you'll be painting for DAYS. Also, the size of the model is probably 25mm instead of 28mm, which means the figures look too large in it. The inside of the Tavern is the right size for the accessories I bought. So I figured I could go ahead and paint it and bring it to one of my friends' pathfinder nights later in the next couple weeks. ...Which brings us to the current state. I love the red shingles, but I'm afraid to add a wash now because I don't want to darken the bright red color. I dislike the work I did on the flagstone bottom. I followed that excellent flagstone styrofoam guide on this site, but the principals of PLA 3D print worked against me. Because a 3D printed object is done in layers, those layers are present on the model. Whenever you do a wash, the wash goes inbetween the layers and sticks out. This model is printed in such a way to minimize the effect, but when I tried to wash the stones they just soaked it up and made the ridges more visible. Hints and tricks are greatly appreciated. I was hoping someone could help me "fix" the stones to make them a little less "standoutish." I was thinking of just doing a black wash with MSP black to tone down the brighter colors a bit, but am worried about the ridges showing up again. I have been kind of hurrying with it too because I wanted to get it game ready in case they decided to do game night soon. Any other general tips would be appreciated too.

This is the 2nd row house for my western town of Calamity and I finished it off over the weekend. I tried out a couple of different techniques and materials but overall the build is almost the same as the first row house I built. Primary components are; foamed PVC sheets and commercial parts for the doors and windows. I used a wood shingle for the roof which lent itself to slightly different style of weathering than I use on a paper or cardstock shingle. I'm still up in the air on the usefulness of chipping fluid to create chipped paint and a lot of the chips are actually painted on. Another completed build for Calamity. Here are some pictures of the build along with links to the relevant sections of my blog. If you dig a little bit you can find the blog posts for the 1st version of the row house. ] http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-9-row-house-2-initial.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-10-row-house-2.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-11-row-house-2-more.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-12-row-house-2-even.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-13-row-house-2.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-14-row-house-2-roof.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2015/12/building-calamity-15-row-house-2.html

These are prepainted wood kits from Renaissance Miniatures. I made them up as a gift for my husband, who is running a nautical campaign. The stiffened gauze fabric is supposed to look like a fish net. I'm not sure how successful it was. The kits are pretty nice. They are well-designed, fit together well and come apart into separate layers so you can place figures on different floors inside.

This is one of several terrain pieces my husband gave me for my birthday earlier this month. Technically this thing is called a "Small Hovel", but it seems more hut-like to me. It has a removable roof that I'm not planning to glue on, something which might be a bed inside, and a surprisingly good-looking door. It says it's resin, but whatever this is it's very different from the other resin terrain I have, which feels plasticky and resists paint. This feels more like terra cotta and it absorbed paint and water the first few layers. I have primed it thinly with white and washed over that with Burnt Umber to bring out the details. I am probably not going to paint it in any orthodox fashion.

The logical place to begin when one is constructing a mom and pop grocery store in 28mm is with one of those horsie rides that goes out front. In my youth, you could not find a mom and pop grocery that did not have one. So upon my visit to the Mythology exhibit at the museum, I purchased several little tiny dragons and unicorns... and from a unicorn, I began the construction of a horsie ride, the kind where your immediate ancestors would seat you atop a plastic horsie and drop a quarter in the slot, and you were delightfully entertained for five minutes or so. For some reason, you can hardly find any of these things any more. As far as I could tell, it used to be a LAW that everyplace that sold food had to have at least one of these things on the premises. Nowadays, you can hardly find them anywhere. I had to drive clear out to Parker to find one to use for a model. It resembled this one, although in shades of brown, and the horse was depicted in a galloping position; rather than repose the soft rubber unicorn, I said the hell with it. Construction includes toothpicks for the column supporting the cashbox, and for the piston that makes the horsie go up and down; it's mounted in a bead. The pedestal is shaped basswood. And now that there is a horsie ride, the actual construction on the convenience store can begin. More on this as I get it...

Just wanted to drop a note that a group of us in the Southeast is meeting up at Dragon Star Hobbies in Athens GA. Saturday, May 31 from roughly 12 noon until 4pmish... May arrive a little earlier, may stay a little longer, but the focus time will be between 12 and 4. Psstt... and as an enticement for you to come... The Dragons Don't Share II resin set obtained at Reapercon will be in attendance for your visual perusal!

The is the first of three or four buildings that I'm scratchbuilding for my wild west town of Calamity. The driving concept behind Calamity is a display board to be used at conventions to promote my local miniatures gaming club (The League of Extraordinary Gamers or LEG). I want it to be the kind of board that really draws people in and gets them fired up to learn and play a game and get introduced to miniature games. With that in mind my builds tend to be a bit more involved than you would ordinarily put into a building meant for gaming. That goes for all of my laser cut buildings as well, all will be dressed up when I start building the boards themselves. I opted for styrene plastic as my main material. Its easy to work with, readily available and the core plastic I can pick up for free from one of my friends in the banner printing business. This also allows me to use commercially available doors and windows from the local model railroad store. The Calamity Newspaper Office (although it could serve as anything, even a saloon) is based on plans from one of my model railroad books "Structures of the Early West", 2nd edition 1994, Joseph Crea and Elwood Bell, and is still standing in Crested Butte Colorado (its a restaurant now, another friend has eaten there and says they have great burgers). I don't think that this book is in print anymore but if you can find a copy it has a lot of different buildings in it. This building is built to 1/56th scale, which is about as close to correct as we get for our miniatures. The doors are all O Scale, or 1/48th scale, from Grandt Line as are the windows. I found that the S Scale, or 1/64th scale, doors were a bit to small in most cases but the S Scale windows work quite well. But the building proportions themselves are all set to 1/56th. Here is a picture of the building as it stands right now before any, major, exterior painting has been started. There is some test color for my weathered undercoat on the back wall, which I rather like. I have been covering building the Newspaper Office, and my trials and tribulations, on my blog. Here are the links from prototype to completed model if you would like to see this building's journey from matt board to final assembly. These are in sequence from start to current: http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-prototype-building-newspaper.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-prototype-buildings-moving.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-newspaper-office-cutting-parts.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-newspaper-office-time-for-some.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-newspaper-office-doors-and-more.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2013/12/calamity-newspaper-office-interior-work.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2014/01/calamity-newspaper-office-final-assembly.html

This is a flat map (art board) of the inn (Inn Of Crossed Lances) that my (RPG) adventure group stays in and plays actual (RPG) tabletop when they are home in the shire of (KRONT). The board playing area is (37 x 19...1.5" squares)...created, drawn and inked by me. The board contains the following major areas: 1. Central master dining room & library area 2. Kitchen & pantry 3. Rooms (1-4-5-12-13-14-15-18-20-21) 4. Luxury rooms (6-10-17) 5. Bunk bed room (2)...for male characters 6. Bunk bed room (11)...for female characters 7. (2) common bath house rooms 8. Hot spa 9. Shrine 10. (2) small tea lounges 11. (1) private show lounge 12. (1) royal suite 13. Small moon garden 14. A massive pool of the void 15. Center board (center bottom)...stairs going up to the tavern (2nd floor)

This is one of my scratchbuilt tabletop fantasy town/shire gaming pieces. I have (5) other such pieces completed (with varied other structures). All are constructed on a ceiling tile base and are in the 12" x 12" area in size (some slightly larger...some slightly smaller)...I also have another (6) buildings that are completed but not mounted on any base(s). This building stands about 11" tall.

Castle! is a supercool, modular castle kit that can be built and then taken apart again and again for easy storage. I'm very excited to see that my friend has finally gotten his idea so close to fruition, all he needs is a little help. Please check out his Kickstarter, and if it interests you, please help make it a reality! Follow the link below. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/castlefoundry/castle-the-modular-construction-system?ref=live