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  1. So, like the title says, we're here to make some good, sturdy, cheap terrain. This will never win prizes, but it will look good and stand up to some abuse. Plus, it's CHEAP. Please feel free to take and change any/everything that I show you below to make it yours. Here's what you'll need: Plastic canvas (AKA granny grating) used for needlepoint. You can get this at Michael's and similar stores. (Sewing/crafts shops for those not in the US) This comes in a few different sizes; get the one you like. I use the smallest one I can get; it scales better with 28mm figures, IMO. Mod Podge Knife/cutting tool of some sort Sharpie marker Vinyl floor tiles--available at DIY/home improvement stores. Home Depot gives away free samples like the one shown below. These are a good size to make corridors. They'll probably look at you funny if you try to walk out with 50, but a half dozen or so shouldn't be an issue. Grab whichever ones you like; we don't care about the texture on the top. You can also get a a box of larger squares for $18-20. I picked up one box, which has enough tiles to cover 20 square feet. Again, get the cheapest ones they have, you're not using the top, so it doesn't matter what it looks like. Not shown: some cardboard from an empty cereal box or whatever source of thin cardboard that you have. Random detail bits Measure and mark the top of the tile to show you where you're going to cut. In this example, I'm making a corridor, so I placed a couple of spare 30mm figure bases side by side, added a few millimeters on either side and then marked the area I'm going to cut off. This step is up to you, make your corridor as thin/wide as you like. If you want to go with only one base width, you can simply cut the tile in half and get 2 corridors from each tile. Ok, I goofed up and didn't take pictures of the next 2 steps, so I'll try to describe it. Use the tile you just cut out as a template to trace and cut out an equal sized piece of the grating. Next, flip your tile over and remove the paper backing. Now, coat the uncovered adhesive with the Mod Podge. Why not just stick the plastic grating to the adhesive on the back of the tile? In my experiments, it wasn't a very strong bond. Also, by leaving the adhesive exposed, you're asking for lint, dust, dog/cat hair, and all manner of other junk to get stuck to your sci-fi corridor. By coating it with the Mod Podge, you eliminate that problem. Ok, take your piece of plastic grating, and stick it down on the Mod Podge covered tile. Put something heavy on it and leave it to dry for a while. Technically, you're done and can stop here and paint you new terrain. Try to imagine the below picture without the cardboard strip on the side; kind of plain and boring, right? Ok, so let's add some more detail. Grab an empty cereal box, cut some strips from it, and stick them down with the Mod Podge. I made 2 long strips, and used an old ball point pen to score lines in them to show that they were separate deck plates. (They didn't show up well in the pictures, so I colored them in with my sharpie; you don't need to do this.) Experiment with your deck plates. You can make them thinner or thicker, place them only on one side or right down the middle, or even go across the tile instead of lengthwise like I did. This is what you'll end up with. You can also stop here and paint your corridor if you're happy with it. If you want to go further still, you'll need to find some interesting looking junk to stick down as shown below. (You can buy stuff, too, but that's not cheap). The stuff I've used is junk from my job that would've normally gotten thrown away. If you don't happen to work someplace that produces interesting junk, you can take apart dead pens to get pipes and a few interesting looking mechanical parts. If you've got an old electromechanical device of some sort that you're going to throw away because it doesn't work, take it apart first and strip if for parts. If you've got kids, broken toys are a good source for parts, too. Use your imagination! A quick reminder, though: putting all that neat looking junk along the edges cuts down on the amount of space for figures, as shown below. Without the stuff on the edges, I can fit 2 figures side by side. With it there, it shrinks the hallway down quite a bit. Dry fitting and experimentation are key here. I hope that you found this interesting/useful in some fashion. Even more, I hope that you feel inspired to give this a try. If you do, please take some pictures and share them here. If you have any questions, please let me know. BTW, I don't have a painted example to show (yet); I'm doing this as part of a bigger project and plan to paint it as one large batch. I'm also working on doing some walls, too. I have a few things to finish working out before I share them.
  2. I finished up my jungle terrain piece, let me know what you think. This might not have been a very nice goddess: It's been a while since anyone has been here. Ruh roh, Rhaggy, if this shrine is abandoned, who lit the torch?
  3. Some quick table top painting on these guys; they'll see use as imps in Frostgrave. I hope you like 'em.
  4. This is a 3D printed bard I picked up cheap at Reapercon; he was part of a batch of misprints I bought. Quite a few were still useable in my opinion. This guy for instance had the left foot broken off, but the part was present, and it was a clean break, so very easy to glue. He's also supposed to have a feather on his hat; that wasn't present, so I cleaned up the break and painted it as a badge instead. I wasn't sure if he was supposed to be a halfling or a goblin since he's barefoot, has hairy feet, and he's dressed fairly well, but he's also got huge ears and exposed lower canine teeth. I went with halfling, and found out it's supposed to be a goblin when I saw the figure on Etsy. Oh well, maybe he's got a little goblin in his blood from a few generations ago. There IS a reason he's on a pirate ship, after all. Let me know what you think.
  5. I painted this guy up for use in StarGrave, 5 Parsecs From Home, or any other sci-fi skirmish game I might get involved in. His paint scheme is very loosely based on a well known smuggler from a galaxy far, far away. I tried to get his eyes looking off to his left; I think I didn't make him look too bad. I hope you like him.
  6. This is s figure that I painted during a speed painting class at Reapercon a couple years ago. I decided to go back and clean up a couple things that I think could have been a little better. I know that's not quite the idea of speed painting, but I brought him to my tabletop standard, so I'm happy with him now.
  7. This is a figure that was given to me at Reapercon last year. If you know who makes it please let me know so I can give proper credit. I hope you like it.
  8. This is a figure that I painted during a 'Sophie says' at Reapercon last year. It was a fairly decent paint job that didn't take too much time to clean up, so I did. I'll be using him as a flunky for various different gangs/crews/whatever. Just look at his face; he very obviously has no idea what he's gotten himself wrapped up in.
  9. I finished Ape-X this evening, I figure he'll go well with the mad scientist group of figures that I'm slowly working on. His base was warped pretty badly, and even boiling it didn't help, so I chopped it off and rebased him on a resin base that looks like a wrecked lab. Like most of my stuff, he's painted for tabletop; I hope you like him.
  10. I knocked out some random pieces of scenery last night. Everything was washes and dry brushing. I hope you like them. First up is a heavily damaged Jersey barrier made by Secret Weapon miniatures. Next are 2 grave stones from craft store Halloween village sets. The one on the left I repainted then did washing and drybrushing. The one on the right i intentionally did a sloppy job of painting so that some of the original colors were still visible, then i weathered it like the other one. I'm not sure where I got this table from, but it looked like it would be pretty quick to spruce up, so I did. Let me know what you think, please.
  11. I wanted to just get something done, so I did this ghost up in about an hour. I did go back and try to do a little OSL on the tombstone where it was phasing through it. Basing was an extra 20 minutes or so. It's nothing spectacular, but it'll look good on the table.
  12. This is actually a 54mm miniature; it was made by GW for their long OOP Inquisitor game. It came as a pet/sidekick for the mutant character Quovandius. I got the pair of them for $1.50 at a store clearance sale. While going through boxes the other day, I found the rat, but not the other figure. I decided the rat would make an excellent mad scientists experiment, so I painted it up. Please let me know what you think.
  13. This an old D&D miniatures Bonded Fire Summoner that I cleaned up the basic paintjob it came with. This was mostly done to knock out something quick to get back into painting. Basic tabletop. Lots of dust, I really need to clean out the lightbox....
  14. You'll take my life, but I'll take yours too You'll fire your musket, but I'll run you through So when you're waiting for the next attack You'd better stand, there's no turning back I'm going to be building/converting/sculpting my own copy of Eddie from this artwork. I'm just going to do the central figure, not the battlefield around him. For those who don't know, the song 'The Trooper' is based on the Charge of the Light Brigade, an action during the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War. So, before I get started, a question: The artist who did this piece (Derek Riggs) applied a little creative license to the flag that Eddie is carrying. It is not historically accurate to the best of my knowledge and research. If you know differently, please enlighten me. When I get to that point, do I try to recreate the flag as seen in the artwork, or go with something a little more accurate? Or is that a detail that most people will not notice?
  15. Here's 2 beetle swarms that I knocked out pretty quick this weekend. One basic brown, and the other with a more metallic look to them. Let me know what you think.
  16. I finished Mason Thornwarden a little earlier today. He's painted up to a (hopefully) decent tabletop standard. I've been reading a lot about Rangers of Shadowdeep on various blogs all over the internet; I can neither confirm nor deny that is what may have led to his selection for the paintbrush. Let me know what you think of him, please.
  17. I just finished painting this figure yesterday. It's from the old Grenadier boxed set 'Fighting Men' #2005. Not really a whole lot to say about him, I spent about 3 hours painting him to a good tabletop level. I got a little burned out on painting for a while, feeling like I had to paint everything to a competition level. Well, sometimes it's just fun to slap some paint on a figure in a few hours just to take your mind off of other things. I had just forgotten that somewhere along the way. Anyhow, here he is, let me know what you think.
  18. 'Scorch' Sotniko was hot. This whole damn world was hot, but this stinking jungle somehow seemed to be hotter still. The other mercenaries he was moving through the jungle with looked like they were feeling about the same as he was. Strange Midnight, their scout, didn't seem to be bothered as much as everyone else, but that was because he came from the rad deserts of Zargove-3. This was just a nice stroll in the woods for him. Scorch knew that they'd be at the rendezvous point in another half hour or so, and then he'd get a break. He'd be able to refill his canteens, as well as to remove the heavy Intergalactic Marine Expeditionary Force armor that he'd gotten a few months back off the black market. Between the heavy armor, the protective anti-flash gear, the flamethrower he was carrying, and all the rest of his gear, he had a fairly heavy load. It'd be good to able to shed the weight, even if only for a little while. Some of the other guys gave him grief about his chosen equipment, but they hadn't seen what the bugs they were hunting could do to a man; Scorch had. From what he'd heard, the IMEF armor was supposed to offer a substantial amount of protection from the claws and fangs that most of their current enemy was armed with. Likewise, the flamethrower was good for keeping them at a distance and killing whole swaths of the things at once. Yeah, it might be hot, but the way Scorch figured it, that was better than all the screamin', bleedin' and dyin' he remembered from his first encounter with the bugs. Nothing fancy, just a fairly quick tabletop paint job to shake the rust off.
  19. I finally managed to climb back on the painting horse. I painted this vampire to my usual tabletop standard. He'll be the leader for a Mordheim/Frostgrave/random skirmish game warband.
  20. A lot of times, I see people asking for advice on how to do a conversion, or expressing uncertainty about having the skills to do one. So, I decided to create (what I hope will be) a helpful topic to cover that area. I'm aiming this primarily at beginners, or those that 'don't think they can', but hopefully everyone will find something useful or interesting here. First off, let's dispel the 'I can't/I'm not good enough' myth. Nonsense! If you can operate simple mechanical devices, you have all the skills you need to perform simple conversions. It's easy and fun, all it takes is some practice. Just remember, you're going to want to practice on some inexpensive figures before you start in on anything really crazy. Bones figures are great for this. So, here's what you'll need: 1.A hobby knife with a new blade--new blades are easier to use, and safer. Caution: these are sharp, please be careful. 2.Some green stuff, or whatever type of sculpting putty you prefer. This will be used for filling gaps and/or sculpting new details. 3.Some victims volunteers figures you want to convert. In this case, I'm going to be using some Bones Goblins (remember the practice on inexpensive figures part?) for 2 reasons; they're cheap, and I have a horde of them and don't like having a bunch of clones on the table top. 4.Super Glue; the stuff in my picture is the best that I've found for working on Bones, and it's not too shabby on other materials, either. There are many other types out there; find the one that works the best for you. 5.Something to pin parts with; in this case I'm using paperclips. They're plenty strong enough for what I'll be doing. Again there are a lot of things you can use, go with what works for you. I use brass rod for bigger and/or metal miniatures; it's stronger. Not pictured: A razor saw for cutting metal figures. Mine is missing right now, but the one I use is made by X-Acto. 6. A drill and bits for making holes for pinning your figures. 7. A bits box. This is where you keep all of your spare parts for conversions. I've got around a dozen of these things, all full of weapons, shields, body parts, and all sorts of other things.If you buy a figure that has different head or weapon options, the pieces you decided not to use go into your bits box. Got a figure that you've already cut the head and both arms off of to use elsewhere? Keep it. You might want those boots for something next summer. Never throw anything away. Here we go! The first conversion will be a simple weapon swap; a spear into a halberd. Here, you can see I cut off the spear head in order to replace it with something else. This brings up a good rule: try to find a 'seam' to make your cuts at, if possible. Here, the 'seam' is where the head of the spear meets the shaft. Other good 'seams' are wrists, especially if there is a sleeve/gauntlet/wristband that will provide a guide for cutting and leave a nice flat space to attach the new part. Not quite as good of a seam here, mostly because the top of the hand/fist isn't entirely flat. It's still a very good spot to use for weapon swaps, though. (I'm sorry, I forgot to take pictures of these guys, but you can see them completed in the group pictures down below.) Now, let's do some shield swaps. This is the spear goblin. What I want you to notice here is that I was careful to cut the shield off in such a way that the straps were left intact on the goblins arm. Sure, you can just chop the shield off however you want to, but: a) you'll have to re-sculpt those straps, so why make extra work for yourself, and b) that shield might come in handy somewhere else. Never throw anything away. Here he is with his new shield: : This is he mace goblin; I couldn't get a decent shot with his shield removed. This shows the new shield in place. Note that I made certain to preserve the straps on the shield arm again. And from the front: 'Wait a minute!' I hear you cry, 'I just started this hobby 5 minutes ago, I don't have a bits box with lots of neat stuff in it for me to do conversions with' No problem, the next 2 are for you. These 2 goblins got a literal weapon swap. I cut the weapons off (again, I tried to do the cutting at a 'seam') of each figure and reattached them to the other figure. And here they are all glued back together: The sharp eyed among you will notice that the bottom of the spear is a slightly different color than the rest. I accidentally cut into the bottom portion when i was trying to clean up the points where it was attached to the figure.(See? I make mistakes, too. No matter, carry on! That's why we're practicing.) I used a little bit of modeling putty to smooth it out. These next 2 are actually the first 2 that I did, before it occurred to me to document the process for others, so I don't have in progress shots of them.They are included just to provide more examples of what can be done in a few minutes. You'll notice that these fellows have some green stuff on them. The goblin on the left has had his arm from the elbow down swapped with one from a pathfinder goblin. I made some wrappings out of GS to hide the join between the 2 parts. The goblin on the right had his shield and arm from the elbow down removed and the arm from the first goblin grafted on. The 2 parts did not align very well, so I gave him a chain mail sleeve from GS to hide the join. Detail of the added armor. And finally, here they are all together. Added weapon, swapped spear for mace,swapped shield, changed weapon tip pathfinder goblin arm, shield swap, weapon swap, swapped mace for spear Was this useful/helpful/informative for you? Is there anything I could do better? Is this something that you'd like to see me continue doing? Please note that I made this an open thread; I'm not the only person that does this, and I am by no means a master at it. If you've got some tips/tricks to add please do so. Step-by-step pictures of what you're working on would be great; I'm still learning, too! I hope that this inspires at least one person to give converting a try.
  21. Welcome to the 9th round of the Box of Goodwill! You may have heard about the fabled 'Box of Goodwill'. Maybe you were involved last time, maybe you're new and would like to see what it's all about. Well, you're in the right place!! Read on: This is the official, soon to be patented sign up thread for round 9. As before, please provide the following info in your replies to this thread: Where you live If you'd be willing to ship internationally (more expensive) If you want to be a box starter (depending on the amount of interest) There has been a minor rules clarification made. There is also a slight change. Even if you were involved in any of the previous versions, please make sure you read them carefully. Basically, put some stuff you don't want/will never get to/think other people will find cool into a box and send it to someone else. That recipient will take out whatever interests them, replace a like amount of stuff and ship it to the next person in line. And so on. The last person will send it back to the coordinator ( the person who originally sent out one of the boxes ). What's allowed: 1)ANY miniature 1a) this means any material, any genre, any manufacturer, any subject matter. If you put lead in, please label it somehow (separate baggy or whatever) 2)Anything mini related 2a) bases, basing material (please package this very securely, and label it), terrain, scenic bits, whatever. 3) Free stuff--leftover bits, drawings, etc. Please label these items as 'free' or 'giveaway'. If you want some of this stuff, take it, you don't have to match it. 3a)Please limit the amount of non-miniatures related items to whatever will fit into a standard sized Ziploc sandwich bag if it is bulky. Drawings/sketches take up next to no space at all and don't need to be stuffed into said baggy. 3a-1)Use common sense. Also, if you have some hand-crafted, custom-built shark skin and mithril dice bags or whatever that you're certain everyone will love, PM your coordinator and the folks in your circuit and see what everyone thinks of the idea. Majority rules. 4) Keep it reasonable; try not to put in anything larger than 54mm. That's gonna eat up a lot of space, and create a lot of 'what's it worth' questions. What's NOT allowed: 1)Paint/liquid 2)Perishable items 3)Exceptionally bulky, non miniature related items. Donate that 7th extra copy of the Player's Handbook to someone that you game with. How it works: A coordinator will put together a box of stuff and send it out to 8-10 people in his/her circuit. When you receive the box, take out whatever you like and replace it with a like amount of stuff.The value of what you replace should be equal to or slightly exceed whatever you take. We're gonna use the honor system here, so it's going to be somewhat subjective. Trades should be on a one-for-one basis, unless you're taking something big, in which case it's one-for-two or more. For example: If you see 4 orcs that you want, take them and replace them with 4 other roughly man-sized figures. If there's a larger figure (54mm ) that you want, take it, and replace it with either 1 similarly sized figure, or 2-3 man sized figures. Once you're finished, pack it up and send it to the next person in line. Here are some other specifics: 1)The coordinator will put together a box and start it on it's way. Each coordinator will pm me with the tracking info of the box as it sets out to the first recipient. After this, each recipient will pm the tracking number to their coordinator (the person who started the box) AND the person that they're shipping it to. 2)Participants will publicly announce when they have received the package (pictures would be cool, but aren't mandatory), and again when they send it off to the next person. For example: I received the box o' goodwill from Chaoswolf. When ready to ship, 'I'm sending the box to Pingo'. 2a)Participants will also be responsible for contacting the next person and getting their shipping information. The people involved in any given circuit will be public knowledge, so feel free to exchange shipping info how/whenever you wish. 3)Each participant will have 1 week from the arrival of the box to make their swaps and then send the box on to the next person. This is really important, we had several boxes sitting for several weeks or more with no movement in the last go around. If something comes up, please say something. Everyone here is fairly understanding about real life getting in the way. 4) For participants in the USA, shipping will be via flat rate boxes. Tracking and insurance are included in the cost. In the event of loss, the person mailing the box will make the insurance claim and use the proceeds to purchase items to fill and ship a replacement box. 5) I'm anticipating roughly 3-4 months for each box to make a complete circuit (8-10 people x 1week per person + travel time). Once all boxes have completed the circuit (returned to the coordinator), we'll open up a new sign up thread and start the process over again if there's interest. Coordinators will need to pm me so I know that all circuits are complete. 6) This will be open to everyone. We have had several people express willingness to run/participate in a circuit for the newer members; I feel that this somewhat offsets any concerns about anyone's 'reliability'. Perhaps I'm a little naive, but the feeling I'm getting from both public posts and pm's is that everyone really seems to want this to work. Newer members are defined as anyone who hasn't been active on the boards for a year,or without at least one completed exchange. 7) NO double-dipping. If you and your SO both paint minis, please just sign up once for the household. 8) Sign ups will end Midnight May 6th (east coast time). There will be a little wiggle room allowed here to allow for different time zones and whatnot. Once I get up the following morning, it's closed. I'll figure out how many people are involved, how many groups there are, who's going to coordinate and post that information in the first post of the chatter thread. 9) Individual coordinators are able to exercise a bit of leeway within their circuit. They will be setting up the initial package, so they can just stuff a box, or do a quick survey of everyone in their circuit to determine preferences. If they want to suggest everyone slap a color on Sir Forscale (or his designated representative), that's up to them. I'm thinking that the coordinators can run things pretty smoothly. If there's a question or concern, hit them up. Coordinators: if you're not sure how to proceed, hit me up and we'll work it out. 10) if something comes up and you need to drop out for whatever reason (life happens), please contact your coordinator as soon as possible so that he/she can make the necessary adjustments. 11)The group paint figure is not mandatory, just a little something extra for those who are so inclined. 12) Have fun! Ok, I'm pretty sure I've covered everything. If I missed something, or it's unclear, please bring it up in the chatter thread, or PM me. Don't add it here. Suggestions for a different 'group paint' figure and/or title can go in the chatter thread, too. ETA---I don't want to make any assumptions here. Even if you were in the other rounds, please indicate if you'd like to do round 9. Thanks ETA2---With the current world situation (coronavirus) I'm going to be a little more lenient on the 1 week turnaround requirement. If you get the box and want to quarantine it for a few days before opening it, that's fine. Just try and keep it moving as quickly as possible. I was going to add a whole bunch of safety guidelines and such, but at this point I don't think it's necessary. I'm sure everyone has heard what to do/not do by now. If you think it still warrants discussion, I'll be happy to discuss it in the chatter thread, and edit this post if necessary.
  22. Ok, here are the rules: 1) Please don't sign up if you were there, or if you had someone get you stuff from the con. This is supposed to be for people who weren't there. No, I'm not going to check, but the gods will know, and they will visit a terrible vengeance upon you. 2) Unlike the regular version of the BoGW that you may be familiar with, you don't need to match anything you take. All of this stuff was donated by people to allow other people to get some cool stuff. So, take whatever you want (but see below). 3) No sharing your picks. If it works out that everyone involved gets to pick 3 figures but you only want 2, you can't pass that extra figure choice down the line to someone else. Everyone gets to have the same amount of stuff, unless someone chooses to take less. If there's stuff left over, send it back to me and it'll get folded into the next regular Box of Goodwill. (Exact number of choices will be based on the amount of people signing up) Most of the stuff this time around is metal and resin miniatures. There are no Bones (I did receive a few of the monthly Bones giveaway figure, but they're all the same figure, and I was probably only going to throw in a few to round out numbers if it becomes necessary, otherwise, I was going to put them in the regular BoGW). There are a few non-miniature items, such as bags, dice, etc. There are not enough of these items to go around, so if you want a bag, for example, that counts as one of your picks. Any other questions, please let me know.
  23. Would there be interest in/support for doing this again this year? This is the basic idea behind it for those not familiar: The past couple Reapercons that I've been at, I have noticed a fair amount of swag bag/con exclusive figures that people didn't want getting tossed onto the melt table and/or left laying around. I had the idea of collecting all the unwanted stuff, putting it in a box and shipping it around to folks who couldn't get to the 'con so that they could sort of 'be there, too'. Unlike the regular BoGW, people donating wouldn't get anything out of the box, they would just be 'throwing away' the stuff they don't want in a slightly different direction. Maybe there would be a ribbon involved, maybe it might just be the thanks of people who will benefit done the line.
  24. Here's the official arrival/departure thread for round 8 of the Box of Goodwill. Remember, no chatter here, please. Do it here instead: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/85639-box-of-goodwill-round-8-picturechatter-thread/ Generic Fighter---sent 5/4 AHY79---arrived 5/6, sent 5/16 Pineapple---arrived 5/18, sent 5/22 3vil3lvis---arrived 5/25, sent 5/29 ObiJohn27 Hungerfan--arrived 6/18, sent 6/24 Synistar---arrived 6/26, sent 6/29 Generic Fighter---arrived 7/1 Clearman---sent 4/20 Crowley---arrived 4/22, sent 4/27 Dilvish the Deliverer---arrived 4/29, sent5/11 TripleH---arrived 5/13, sent 5/20 KangarooRex---arrived 5/22, sent 6/8 Cassu dropped out Lidless Eye---arrived 6/10, sent 6/17 Sylverthorne---arrived 6/19, sent 6/28 Clearman---arrived 7/1 Inarah---sent 4/19 Broonkah---arrived 4/22, sent 4/30 Gaming Dog---arrived 5/2, sent 5/10 Argentee--arrived 5/14, sent 5/17 Izzy Lobo---arrived 5/20, sent 6/1 Kristof65---arrived 6/3, sent 6/4 MattParody---arrived 6/10, sent 6/19 Fire Eyes---arrived 6/22 Inarah---arrived 7/5 PCKTLNT---sent 4/30 Mutilated Lips---arrived 5/4, sent 5/11 Warlady---arrived..., sent 5/23 Sanael---arrived 5/25, sent 5/31 Hiddenone32---arrived 6/3, sent 6/6 Keianna---arrived 6/8, sent 6/18 Dr.Bob PCKTLNT---arrived 6/28 Rob Dean---sent 4/29 Autumn Hare---arrived 5/2, sent 5/6 Ratmaster2000---arrived 5/8, sent 5/10 SGHawkins09---arrived 5/11, sent 5/17 Horned Turtle---arrived 5/21, sent 5/28 Marc---arrived 5/30, sent 6/12 TGP---arrived 6/13, delivered 7/19 Cygnwulf---received 7/19, sent 7/22 Rob Dean---arrived 7/24 Guindyloo---sent 5/4 Chris Palmer---arrived 5/7, sent 5/13 Holk Diggity---arrived 5/15, sent 5/20 Samurai Jack---arrived 5/23, sent 5/30 McKenna35---arrived 6/1, sent 6/5 Wyvernfire---arrive 6/9, sent 6/19 Buckyball---arrived 6/26, sent 6/27 Jodie---arrived 7/2, sent 7/9 Guindyloo---arrived 7/19 Rat13---sent 4/23 Klarg1---arrived 4/25, sent 4/30 Pingo---arrived 5/4, sent 5/6 Talespinner---arrived..., sent 5/17 Morihalda---arrived 5/18, sent... Disserma---arrived 6/14, sent... Marineal--- Rat13---arrived 6/28 Chaos Wolf---sent 4/27 Mad Jack---arrived 4/29, sent 5/20 Haldir---arrived 5/23, sent 6/6 Corsair---arrived 6/10, sent 6/17 Glitterwolf---arrived 6/26, sent 6/27 Mini Dungeon Master---arrived 7/6, sent 7/21 Flit---arrived 7/26, Chaos Wolf---arrived 8/17 Have fun!!
  25. I started this guy last winter sometime so I figured it was time to finish him up. I used the Thanksgiving paint binge to accomplish this. I wanted to imply that he was made from slightly fresher parts, so I used several different flesh tones on him, then washed/drybrushed/weathered him to look a little grungy/rotten. Painted for tabletop; let me know what you think.
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