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Found 9 results

  1. So, like the title says, we're here to make some good, sturdy, cheap terrain. This will never win prizes, but it will look good and stand up to some abuse. Plus, it's CHEAP. Please feel free to take and change any/everything that I show you below to make it yours. Here's what you'll need: Plastic canvas (AKA granny grating) used for needlepoint. You can get this at Michael's and similar stores. (Sewing/crafts shops for those not in the US) This comes in a few different sizes; get the one you like. I use the smallest one I can get; it scales better with 28mm figures, IMO. Mod Podge Knife/cutting tool of some sort Sharpie marker Vinyl floor tiles--available at DIY/home improvement stores. Home Depot gives away free samples like the one shown below. These are a good size to make corridors. They'll probably look at you funny if you try to walk out with 50, but a half dozen or so shouldn't be an issue. Grab whichever ones you like; we don't care about the texture on the top. You can also get a a box of larger squares for $18-20. I picked up one box, which has enough tiles to cover 20 square feet. Again, get the cheapest ones they have, you're not using the top, so it doesn't matter what it looks like. Not shown: some cardboard from an empty cereal box or whatever source of thin cardboard that you have. Random detail bits Measure and mark the top of the tile to show you where you're going to cut. In this example, I'm making a corridor, so I placed a couple of spare 30mm figure bases side by side, added a few millimeters on either side and then marked the area I'm going to cut off. This step is up to you, make your corridor as thin/wide as you like. If you want to go with only one base width, you can simply cut the tile in half and get 2 corridors from each tile. Ok, I goofed up and didn't take pictures of the next 2 steps, so I'll try to describe it. Use the tile you just cut out as a template to trace and cut out an equal sized piece of the grating. Next, flip your tile over and remove the paper backing. Now, coat the uncovered adhesive with the Mod Podge. Why not just stick the plastic grating to the adhesive on the back of the tile? In my experiments, it wasn't a very strong bond. Also, by leaving the adhesive exposed, you're asking for lint, dust, dog/cat hair, and all manner of other junk to get stuck to your sci-fi corridor. By coating it with the Mod Podge, you eliminate that problem. Ok, take your piece of plastic grating, and stick it down on the Mod Podge covered tile. Put something heavy on it and leave it to dry for a while. Technically, you're done and can stop here and paint you new terrain. Try to imagine the below picture without the cardboard strip on the side; kind of plain and boring, right? Ok, so let's add some more detail. Grab an empty cereal box, cut some strips from it, and stick them down with the Mod Podge. I made 2 long strips, and used an old ball point pen to score lines in them to show that they were separate deck plates. (They didn't show up well in the pictures, so I colored them in with my sharpie; you don't need to do this.) Experiment with your deck plates. You can make them thinner or thicker, place them only on one side or right down the middle, or even go across the tile instead of lengthwise like I did. This is what you'll end up with. You can also stop here and paint your corridor if you're happy with it. If you want to go further still, you'll need to find some interesting looking junk to stick down as shown below. (You can buy stuff, too, but that's not cheap). The stuff I've used is junk from my job that would've normally gotten thrown away. If you don't happen to work someplace that produces interesting junk, you can take apart dead pens to get pipes and a few interesting looking mechanical parts. If you've got an old electromechanical device of some sort that you're going to throw away because it doesn't work, take it apart first and strip if for parts. If you've got kids, broken toys are a good source for parts, too. Use your imagination! A quick reminder, though: putting all that neat looking junk along the edges cuts down on the amount of space for figures, as shown below. Without the stuff on the edges, I can fit 2 figures side by side. With it there, it shrinks the hallway down quite a bit. Dry fitting and experimentation are key here. I hope that you found this interesting/useful in some fashion. Even more, I hope that you feel inspired to give this a try. If you do, please take some pictures and share them here. If you have any questions, please let me know. BTW, I don't have a painted example to show (yet); I'm doing this as part of a bigger project and plan to paint it as one large batch. I'm also working on doing some walls, too. I have a few things to finish working out before I share them.
  2. As Halloween approaches the dollar stores are filling up with cheap decorations and spooky bricabrac. Amid all the potential projects a certain reflective skull caught my eye. Not knowing if it would take paint or not I decided to roll the dice on a few. I attached them to some bases, added a bit of sand, and the next day I took them out to prime. They ended up taking primer just fine, though I guess I shouldn't be surprised with the primer I use. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a picture of their grey primed goodness. Next up were the basecoats of the skull and "dirt". I didn't get great or even smooth coverage on the skulls, but it was good enough as I was just going to add a heavy wash anyway. The wash was a bit thicker than I wanted but again I figured it was passable and more than good enough to move onto a final drybrush. Not too bad, but there is definitely room for improvement. I guess I'll just have to practice a bit more with my new drybrush. I finally took the leap and tried Uncle Atom's makeup dry brushing technique. Though this project probably qualifies as a failure, I do see the potential. Now all I need is more practice, it's not like I don't have a huge backlog of terrain just waiting to be painted.
  3. So I've been at grandma's after new year's eve and found a bunch of these metal kinder surprise toys. Scale-vise they are around 28mm heroic, so I've decided to give them a quick speedpaint, using some dollar-store acrylic paint and brushes :D, I wonder if they will look any good on the table during play :) Next to a bones orc
  4. I needed a bunch of female figures for an RPG set in the 1920s, and I needed them fast and cheap. Sunday I ordered some Heroclix for a buck each, and by Wed evening they were in my hands. I need to modify the figures to have longer dresses appropriate for the period when the game is set. First thing I did was cut them off at the feet. I found a hobby knife worked well. A sharp hobby knife would work better. I used two part epoxy putty to make skirts. I just smooshed it on and smoothed it out. I should have started with a blob between the legs and let it dry overnight for stability. Next: primer, paint and bases.
  5. So, as you may have heard, I have been bitten by the Frostgrave bug. Like several others here. I don't want to keep thread-jacking the topics that others have already started so I'm starting my own. And there is nothing that you can do about it! (Except ignore it. Please don't ignore it. My fragile self esteem would just totally fall apart and I would be forced to return to.........where was I) Yes terrain. I used to make terrain back when I played Mordheim but all of that has been lost to time and space (and Navy movers). So I'm building most things from scratch. I will include finished works as well as WIP. If there is interest I can break out specific projects into a separate WIP thread. So to start off: My first 10 painted minis of the New year: A Target Games resin Graveyard set. Now that Iook at it, I missed painting the earth on one of the graves. And some moss (lichen I guess for the cold lands) Next up is my pool/well. This is actually an ash tray that Awesome Wife and I picked up from an open air market in London on our honeymoon in '98. We don't smoke but it looked cool. Next up is a WIP of a ruined two story house. I think the next ones I make will not be as wide. Materials are foamcore board ($1) and craft (popsicle sticks, also $1). I've got plenty of both left. Front: And back: Future plans will include a storage box tower and some sort of stepped platform built out of insulation board. FYI the foamboard cuts were done with a hot knife. Very handy and relatively cheap. Mine was $15 at AC Moore but after coupons and discounts it ended up being 7 bucks.
  6. I'm about to start prepping 50+ figures for my kid's paint and take in August. In the past I stored and transported them in a cardboard box with double sided tape on the bottom. They mostly stayed put in nice rows. Well the tape is wearing out and I'm looking for a slightly better looking solution. It has to hold figures from Mousling size to mounted horsemen, in Bones, plastic and metal on all kinds of bases. I get all kinds of donated figures, I don't re-base them if I don't have to. I have a single figure budget. I run the event with donated figures and paints from friends and the community, and a few dollars from my own pocket. Whatever I come up with needs to be cheap and relatively easy to set up and access for the kids. That's why I'm using a cardboard box now. Anyone have a better idea? I'll consider anything.
  7. I've mentioned here and there on here that I take part in an Aztec-themed D&D game. The DM is an archaeologist who specializes in pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, so the campaign has a really fun mixture of Aztec lore and standard D&D fare. My character is an Oath of the Ancients paladin, which we've flavored as an Aztec Jaguar Warrior who worships Xochipilli. Anyway, long story short, Aztec warriors often used a macuahuitl or maquahuitl in battle - a wooden baton edged with obsidian blades that acted a lot like a long sword. Some accounts even said they could decapitate a horse. When I found this cute jaguar hat (OK, OK, leopard, close enough...) on Amazon for a measly $4 shipped, I decided I couldn't pass up the opportunity to do a cheap low-key cosplay for laughs. Below are the work in progress pics of me hacking up and painting a dollar store foam saber with some cheap craft store acrylics to make a macuahuitl to go with my "jaguar pelt". Standard issue dollar store toy sword. Obsidian blades roughly marked out with a sharpie. Spaces between the blades cut away with a box cutter. I decided to go over the whole thing with a coat of white glue to fill in some of the pores and smooth some of the particularly rough areas where the foam got chewed up by the box cutter. In a perfect world I'd have given myself more time to work on this and used a foam cutter, but I didn't have the luxury of the former and I don't own the latter. Mostly there on a base coat of light brown with the help of a certain five-year-old daughter. It would end up taking about 3 coats. Obsidian blades done with gloss black. The handle still needs another coat or two, and I planned to wrap it in rough cotton yarn, but I couldn't find it. It's around here somewhere... I should be able to finish it up tomorrow morning before our D&D session.
  8. I got some plastic bases from em4, for my Happy Seppuku bases. They had some sirt cheap dwarves, so I threw in a bunch. Turned out to be great fun to paint! Detail is sort of soft, but that just makes speed-painting feel better. The dwarfs are not really dynamically posed, but that feels right for me. They are dwarfs, right? Fighting a dragon, with their cousing Mad Angus. I should have gotten more shots of the crossbowers. Oh well. What do you think?
  9. I want to pledge another kickstarter but im not sure which one.. I spent around $300 on reapers and now I want to spend around 50 clams incl shipping to canada (could possibly go to $75) on a few more legit minis, They have to be for dnd campaigns so fantasy only (no guns) and I would like them to arrive before reapers in march, I liked the look of the dwarfs http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/607885648/dwarf-gladiators-finely-sculpted-28mm-resin-miniat?ref=live any suggestions?
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