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Found 479 results

  1. Why oh why did I read that forum entry? Sigh. I don't really have the time because I want to finish stuff for reapercon but I thought to myself... what's the harm in rolling and just seeing what colors I get. I can always procrastinate and never get it done like everything else... double sigh. kyphrixis needs some love. he's languishing in my box of bones. So... that corresponds to: 6, 1, 10.... Crap. Do you see the ginormous amount of chroma saturation in these colors? The sheer magnitude of intensity here staggers the Corporea mind. I mean... it's like taking the bestest of brightest shades and trying to make them work. I can't help it... it makes me want to make it work. To prove once again that you can use read and green together and not make it look like Christmas. To take three saturated colors and make them work together breaks all the nice little Corporea Color Theory Rules of Engagement! It says right here in my little handy-dandy power point that the only way to not make the viewer's eyes go all crossy is to at the very least use a complement with less intensity. I just can't take colors of the same value and use them and make them work. I can't... But I can't help myself... if I can make these insane colors work... I can become the COLOR THEORY MASTER!!!! Plus, unless it's truly cheating... I knows some sneaky sneaky ways to manipulate colors. So... can I mix to my heart's content as long as I just use these plus black and white? Cause that will let me shows these colors who's boss! Best way to take the mickey out of a color is to knock it down with its complement! just cause I can't help but do my usual explaining... here's what I'm talking about with my crappy photoediting from the computer cause I'm lazy: this is an image where I've removed the color saturation and just given us a grayscale. see how similar those colors look? that is because they all have the same value. value is something we don't always see when we first look at colors except to scratch our heads and know something is not quite right. These colors lack value contrast. I often use this example: see how the red and blue look similar but the gold and blue different when I take away their sneaky hues? When I put colors together I want colors with differing range on the scale of black to white- that's value here's the pic from wikipedia. does that make sense? They've taken color and mixed in black and white in varying degrees to make a color paler or darker... sort of. Which means, if you're willing to work with pure shades and black and white... you can make anything! Problem is most paint has filler and additives that muddy the range and do unexpected things when you mix. So... when I get three impossible colors... I must conquer them!!!! sigh. And here I was actually hoping to get that diorama done...
  2. Rankin was playing in the floor and got covered in it so bath time for him. Looking forward to getting some imperial purple on him as well as the mint green the challenge will be adding the hints of olive green on him it's the challenge.
  3. My second converted monster from 2015 ReaperCon conversion class. I took him apart and re-sculpted all the pieces back on to make it blend better, since i'm tons better at working green stuff than i was when i took the class The greenstuff going up the tail is fur
  4. So, one of my personal mini projects atm is working on some of the NPCs my players in my homebrew campaign are encountering. And one of my favorite groups in that world are the Hunts - a loose-bound organization of groups (each called a Hunt) of fighters/mercenaries/warriors, each with their own specialty, who dedicated themselves to maintaining the roads and paths of Fidel during the millenia-long anarchy of the Mortal Wars. Now, what makes the Hunts distinctive from any other mercenary bands? Well, they ride BADASS FLYING MOUNTS. Gryphons, for the most part, although one or two specialize in pegasi, and a few ride more esoteric things... Four NPCs intimately intertwined with the group are members of the Red Hunt - a sort of catch-all for powerful, destructive mages. Faukner, her apprentices Formel and Tiercel, and her wife, Charr. So, I've had the Stonehaven Half-Dragon Duelist for ages. It's one of my favorite dragonborn minis, and I decided it'd be perfect for the swashbuckling Charr... It's a great mini, neat and clean with tons of personality. To give you an idea of who Charr is... Anyways, I've decided to do a WIP of this set of minis, starting with Charr's two forms. This is the thread for her humanoid form, obviously - I'm painting up the Temple Dragon for her dragonness form, and I'll try to do a WIP for that, too. So! I started off nice and simple - hit the face with some red, and decided on a blue-and-white scheme for the cloths. I'm trying to bring out some of the swashbuckler in this mini, so I like the naval colors. That said, I could use ideas for the cravat. Ordinarily, I'd paint my dragonborn's hair simularly to her scales and try to ignore it, but gonna go with dark for these dreads. They're sweet as hell. Wish DSM would give us a KS for these. And there's the face, pretty much finished, TBH! I washed it with Games Workshop's purple wash, pretty heavily so it'd sit well in the mouth and scale cracks, and then highlighted just with pure red. This is a proof-of-concept for the temple dragon, as well as a mini on it's own, and I'm pretty happy with it! Used Palimimo Gold for the eyes - something else that'll carry over!
  5. So about to start on this bad boy.. everything got primed black during the recent warm streak except the vines on the front of his neck
  6. Starting on my invisible Kyphrixis. I really need to pick up a couple more of these when they become available, because I have a couple different ideas I want to try. This version is going to be a Flame Dragon. Base primed with Brown Liner: First limb done to get an idea of how quickly I would have to work to blend the Tamiya Clears I am using. Was just getting started when I had to stop for the evening:
  7. Greetings! Presenting a favourite mini of mine, painted a few years back but not shown until now - Forgeworld's Warpfire Dragon. Thanks for looking!
  8. Stuck my thumb in the box of unpainted bones and pulled out a Kyphryxis. must unbag bag and dry fit, trim mold lines and scrub, but first, the random colors... 15, ah what could that mean? I'll look later. Let's roll another. seven! Good. Nicely spaced numbers. Will look it up in a minute. For the third roll... Well darn gotta wait for the full minute so the time shown is different... Finally! oof! One! Critical miss. Well, it's probably a boring color at the top of the table. Let's see what this means: 15: mint green 7: olive green 1: fire red huh. Whadaya know. Time to go see what I've got for colors... (To be continued)
  9. Hi all! Been a bit since I posted anything, so I'm going to spam a few minis that I've completed lately. This was my entry for the Reaper Facebook group dragon contest. He's the largest model I've done to date, and I'm pretty darn proud of him. C&C welcome and greatly appreciated! ~Magenta
  10. So I decided to do this random dragon challenge thing. My rolls. Main 20 9039 Pure White Secondary 6 9227 Brilliant green Miscellaneous 10 9023 Imperial Purple And my intent is to do the 3 star challenge, I was planning this before rolling. Interesting colors, I have the pure white but not the other two. The arrival of Deathsleet with his Halloweeny reinforcements, and the missing two paints. And here he is ready for the paint. I started with giving him a primer of brilliant green cut with 2-3 times as much pure white.
  11. I decided that since there's no time limit, that I'd give this fun challenge a go. I didn't notice the screenshot requirement until it was too late. I originally rolled: 10 - Imperial Purple 19 - Pure Black 19 - Pure Black Thankfully doubles get resolved and the second 19 - Pure Black, became: 11 - violet red Which I didn't have, but the handy comparison chart allows me to use Vallejo Game Color 14 - Warlord Purple, which looks very close to the Reaper color. I looked at the P3 Beaten purple, but it's a dark purple, not a reddish purple. Here's the paint dots next to their respective colors: I did not roll a dragon because I need to look and see what I have in my box o' Bones. That will have to wait until tomorrow as I'm working on homework.... Err, supposed to be anyways. *edit* I forgot to add that I'm going to attempt the three star challenge. Thankfully, I think the warlord purple will allow me to highlight the imperial purple quite nicely. I have no idea what I'm going to do with the pure black yet.
  12. I was happily scrounging through my mountain of unpainted minis when I started to combine some stuff. Anyway. THIS is going to happen now. It will take time so be patient ( I know you're not, but I needed to say it!) I will need a big piece of MDF, and then start thinking about adding the rest of most of the Graveyard set and other stuff to this. Feel free to steal or be inspired. I have tried this with Nethymaul but she needs more conversion to fit on the roof , mainly her tail.. And come on! Kaladrax has the right imposing look for this.
  13. This is the first true dragon I've ever tackled. Hordes minis don't count I went with Deathsleet for his rearing pose and... 01: Fire Red 09: Heather Blue 20: Pure White ...... It's a 4th of July dragon! No, no, bad Neb. Not painting a dragon covered in stars. Too weird. I can... wait... Eeeeeeheheheheheee... I'll see how these paints mix when I get them. Because even with a 3-star challenge I can blend through purple. And now the waiting begins...
  14. Hi All! Here's Kyphrixis from the Bones 3 Kickstarter which I've been working on for the last few weeks. Thanks for looking!
  15. Hi guys, I haven't been here for the better part of a year, but I'm back with a huge "miniature". Its the Lysander model from Toscano, more of a statue than an actual miniature model. There have already been at least two of those in the forums, and they inspired me to paint my own. Also I paint to use the minis for D&D, and we were finishing a specific campaign where I needed a Tiamat miniature. Lysander has five identical heads, so I modified them to resemble the five evil dragon types from D&D lore. If you want to know more, please visit the WIP thread here. So may I present to you Tiamat, the Dark Queen of Dragons. I actually finshed painting the beast last December, but just got new photo hardware today to shoot the thing. Sir William Peacekeeper is facing Tiamat and Severin, the Cult of the Dragon's leader alone. Poor fool.
  16. Right, so I finally saw this challenge on the forum today and couldn't resist jumping in! Probably a bad move with Reapercon coming up, so I may be a bit slow until after October (alternatively, if the Dragon goes really well it might turn out to be one of my entries ) I picked Kryphrixis, since I already had one handy from Bones III. I rolled Cloudy Grey (16) for the primary color, Violet Red (11) for the secondary, and Lemon Yellow (5) for the third. Not bad I suppose, as I've sort of got all three primary colors going (Cloudy Grey does kind of have a touch of blue to it). This should be interesting! A trip to the store will be in order next to pick up the paints, as I don't have either the red or yellow. I'm thinking I'm going to go for the Star 3*** challenge and see what happens. Oh right, and the objective evidence.
  17. I just got a pathfinder red dragon, and while it is really cool, I need to get something bigger. How large is the " Dragon's don't share" dragon in comparison? I like the clockwork, skeletal, and multi-headed (which is clearly the largest) but I would like to start with a more standard dragon. So which of the regular dragons will cast the largest shadow at my game table?
  18. My dragon arrived! Deathsleet for me! The Ebonwrath is for my BF. I rolled a 15, 9, and 3. Ooooh boy. This is going to get funky. Mint green primary. Heather blue secondary. Lava orange miscellaneous. I am going for the base unstarred challenge because this roll is scary and the last dragon I did was like... my 3rd figure ever, over a decade ago unless you count the fairy familiar dragon. Including previous dragon in pictures. Must have been early because it is unlabeled on bottom for number (I labeled soon after beginning to track progress). So yeah. The mint and the blue aren't so bad. The orange?! Uh oh!! My dragon is going to need some work on the base to put the plastic in place better. Thinking of connecting the foot bases instead of two spots on the ground. I have the blue, will buy the orange and green on Saturday. Scheme? I got some time to ponder that!
  19. This is Ebonwrath as painted for the Random Rainbow Dragon challenge as presented here; I rolled up; Primary Colour: Olive Green Secondary colour: Lemon Yellow Teriary Colour: Terran Khaki I went for the 3 star challenge. The colours reminded me of summer in the Australian bush around my parents farm and the Blue Mountains near where I now live, so I went with a base that tried to create that impression. Here he is; If you are interested the WIP thread is here; Please feel free to leave your comments, constructive critisims, ideas or questions here. I hope you enjoy looking at this model as I did painting it.
  20. Ok. I have fallen victim to this insane challenge. More than that I am determined to go for the 3 star challenge. Oh dear! In keeping with the spirit of this whole thing I rolled randomly for the dragon and got Ebonwrath. As for colours... Main: Olive Green Secondary: Lemon Yellow Tertiary: Terran Khaki
  21. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  22. So I'm DMing a group of D&D 5E where we've played the Tyranny of Dragons storyline for the last two years now. We're around session 80ish now, and my group is near the end, where I want them to encounter Tiamat herself. As I've used miniatures for all encounters so far, I need a Tiamat figue. When I saw the amazing WIP and Show-Off threads from Sirithiliel last year, I knew I had found the "miniature" I needed. Thank you for the inspiration, Siri. The model is called "Lysander" and is produced by Toscano. It's made out of some kind of resin and is pretty fragile (especially the horns). Wasn't easy to track down the figue, but then I found it on Amazon for 65 Euros including shipping to Germany. I understand that there are versions of this figure that come unpainted. Mine was painted in a nice green/yellow tone. But of course, this is not befitting of Tiamat ;) My plan was to go a little step further than Siri and change the heads, too. My players know the D&D dragons pretty well after a two-year-long dragon themed campaign, and they should be able to identify the typical D&D dragon heads. As of now, I am almost finished with the model. But if you like, I'll post the pictures of the process here. Here we go: Step 1: The figure out of the box I couldn't get the whole figure on camera with my usual photo setup. Will change setup for later pictures The model is about 29 cm high, has a wingspan of 38 cm and a base of about 18 cm. It's clearly not in a 28cm fantasy miniture scale like the Reaper miniatures (eyes are too big, base has mega huge tree under the dragon's claws), but it will do.
  23. The next set out of Bones 3, various monsters! The Carrion Worm really grew on me! The Temple Dragon is really cool. I hadn't even realized until I was inking it that the base was a statue of a robed woman: The Manticore, who I was specifically hoping for before they announced it during the campaign. It's a classic monster I didn't have a mini of! Lastly, the Giant Cobra. Kind of rushed this one along...he also appears to hide from the camera focus.
  24. This is 01-151 Sea Dragon from Ral Partha, re-released by Iron Wind Metals under the same SKU. I got mine from the Chaos Wars Kickstarter they had a while back. I decided I would be more daring and colorful than I usually paint, and paint this up as a tropical coral reef dragon.
  25. thankfully I don't have to use the colors I randomly rolled from my collection of ~ 100 paints. rosy skin, military green and liche purple would have been really ugly. substitutions per the paint list. 16 Primary Cloudy grey = Dirty Grey 15 Secondary Marine Teal = Winter Blue 17 Accent Mint Green = Will Buy (I have a craft paint stand in to mint green, but the coverage is rubbish, its unusable at the miniature scale. ill be at the FLGS for paint day on Saturday and then gaming on Sunday, I don't need another trip. Ill go 3 stars. the permitted use of black and white seems forgiving. Im looking forward to mixing the mint green with the other colors and see what kind of weird effects it has. The dragon is currently covered in grey liner, which should disappear easily under the dirty grey primary color. I left one wing off so I can paint the back scales more easily.
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