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Current link: https://hangouts.google.com/call/01uvpATfjyv_BtIQtxSxAAEE (Updated 1/24/18, OneBoot) If you are on an Android phone and get redirected to the Hangout app in the Google Play store instead of to the actual hangout, do the following to fix it: 1) Tap the hangout link, which will open the Google play store (for some reason) 2) Tap the three dots icon in the top right corner of the screen 3) Tap "Desktop site" 4) Ta-da! The hangout will open up in a browser window so you can actually use it. Chatter / "I'm here" thread: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/69075-google-hangouts-chatter-thread/ Discord server: There is now an official Reaper forum Discord server: https://discord.com/invite/FXVRhB2 There's also an unofficial Discord server, called Major Mini Shenanigans. Link: https://discord.gg/QH5Fdq2 Rules for the thread: Posts in this thread should be only to share a link to a Hangout (or similar online chat option) No off-topic chatter! We have a randomness thread for that. To answer a few questions: Are these hangouts sponsored by Reaper? Reaper doesn't support or sponsor these hangouts! They're entirely set up and run by forumites on an informal basis. What is a Google Hangout? And how do I set one up? https://hangouts.google.com/ Short answer: They're a group video/audio/text chat option, available for free. See the link for more information. Basically, Skype through a Google link. Can do voice and/or video. Works just fine on a smart phone or computer, platform independent." What is Discord? https://discordapp.com/ It is very similar to Google Hangouts, except that there is also a chat room function. The unofficial Reaper forum Discord server is called Major Mini Shenanigans, and has several different chat rooms. It can be downloaded to either a computer or a smartphone/tablet; again, similar to Google Hangouts. Why would I want to join a hangout? Mostly just to be social Gives you a chance to chat with people while painting Also gives you a chance to ask for immediate feedback as you're working (if you have a decent webcam or camera phone) Some of us have found it really helps motivate us to paint more Sounds great! What do I need? If you're looking to set one up, check the link above. To participate, all you need is a computer with a microphone and speakers. If you want to send out video (e.g. show off a mini you're working on) you'll need a webcam. Many external webcams seem to include microphones internally as well. You can also participate from a smartphone or tablet! On Android and iOS, there's a Hangouts app available. How do I join one of these? Go to your computer or smartphone or tablet or other device that has a microphone and/or camera, and click the link posted at the top. It should take you to either the Hangouts app or to a webpage; either way, you should be given the option to join the Hangout. Anything else I should know? Look for options to turn off your video feed (in case you don't want to send out a live stream of what you look like) and especially for the microphone mute button. That way, if you're having a conversation with someone in real life, or yelling at kittens that are trying to eat figures, or whatever else, you won't have everyone on the Hangout listening in. It's also courteous to the folks on the Hangout - it generally doesn't work to have more than one person talking at a time, and if you're flooding the Hangout with the sound of you yelling at your kitten, it means no-one else can ask for help with their color selection or whatever else they might need. Since Reaper doesn't endorse, sponsor, or otherwise support the hangouts, the Reaper Forum rules aren't necessarily applied. This may mean that you hear inappropriate language. If someone's painting a mini with impractical clothing, you may see bits that aren't normally allowed to be shown directly on the forum. Etc. We try to keep the atmosphere welcoming and friendly but it's possible people will slip, especially if they don't realise someone new has jumped in. Although forum rules aren't necessarily applied, it's probably wise to pretend that you're still on the forums for the most part - try to avoid swearing, try to avoid politics & religion, etc. The forums are incredibly friendly and welcoming, it'd be nice to keep the same atmosphere when we're on a hangout. NEWBIES ARE WELCOME. Don't be afraid to hop on and introduce yourself!

So as some of you may have read, I am going to try to do a basic airbrushing tutorial on Friday night, June 24, 2016, starting at about 2100 (9pm) EST on google hangouts. The idea is to show folks the basics and beginnings of how to use an airbrush... This is the mini I chose: I started the clean up, assembly, gap filling, because folks already know how to do that stuff.... I chose it because it is large enough for people to see what is going on when it is being painted, but not so big it takes over my table, like a dragon would... I have done a Type III Demon before, so I won't have to go to crazy figuring things out, and there are some semi advanced things I can try to show as things progress.... So Thanks for looking, and hope to see you at class! George

So somehow I've gotten roped into this Hangout of the Month piece, possibly because I may have been the first one to mention that I have this figure and it just snowballed from there. Thanks to knarthex for getting all of this started. This is the first metal figure that I'll have ever done, so we'll see how it goes. Here he is in all of his shininess. This thing has a heck of a lot of fiddly bits to it, he's going to be a challenge. But on to getting it prepped: .....And this happened. I had tried using Duplicolor Sandable Primer on it, but it couldn't quite get into the crevices (and there's a lot of them). So it got an overnight bath in Simple Green, and when I woke up, it was all rusted. I'm not sure what happened, there must have been a chemical reaction that corroded it. .........Ha ha, I jest. Since I has a sample of Stynylrez Primer from my Reapercon bag, I decided to test it out to see how it was, and it just happens to be red. I found that it covered things quite nice, it's definitely something I'll use again once I find some that's a more neutral colour. I took a page from Buglips' book ( I know, you're thinking that goblins aren't literate. But they use the pages for toilet paper. And that's only when they want to feel fancy) and made a wash from Warpaints Black. The ratio was 1 part Warpaints Black/6 parts water/1 part flow improver/2 parts stank. It brought up even more little details on the figure that I hadn't even noticed before, there's a lot of cool things about this one, even if painting them will kills me. I realize that I don't even have a real plan to paint this thing, so I'm just winging it and researching various methods of accomplishing what I have in mind. I haven't had much time to do much painting right now, hopefully after tomorrow I'll be freed up a bit more.

Well, I asked if we were going to do this, and Inarah suggested I start the thread, soooooo... Personally, I have to work Saturday, and will have a house full of Pathfinder peeps over for the weekend, but I will still have my Golden Hours of 12 am to dawn to paint.... I am sure that the Hangouts will be open, and this will give folks a jump on the July RPChallenge, (Remember your Punk Rock Pink Paint!) So you have 2 weeks to start thinking about it! George

Alright, during the winter I was in a deep blue funk and had halted my painting completely, and tried to get out of the rut to no avail. One day I was bored, so I had started looking through some of my old D&D prepainted minis. Then I found one of these duplicate Baaz draconians from the Dragoneye expansion: As you can see, their paint jobs are absolute crap. But I did notice that they have a good amount of detail for the kind of minis that they are. So I thought, why not try using them as cheap minis for testing things? I took these pics on Jan.24, and then tried a soak in good ol' Simple Green. The results were.........not great. Not only does it appear that the "paint" is pretty much baked on, the reaction of the plastic with the SG made it smell pretty bad for a couple of days, and didn't do a darn thing. That was was the end of that for awhile. And so April 9th rolls around, and things warm once more. At this point I was able to pare away the mould lines and prime the figure, and I used Duplicolor Sandable Grey Primer. It comes out as a mist rather than a spray, and I found that a great amount of detail popped out of the draconian, which I was pleased by the results. I did a touch of painting on it by using Citadel Warplock Bronze for a base for skin and Daemonette Hide for the cloak. I decided that he would look better as a Bozak than a Baaz, but my enthusiasm began to wane......... ......until June 18, when I joined the Google Hangouts group! Thanks to all the crazies that hang out here, I was able to do more painting in a week than I have in the last 6 months. I found that being able to be around people who love this as much as I do. It gave me the push I needed to focus on it once more, and special love to those of you who supported me. So i decided to use my lesser-known paints this time, just to see how they work. I used P3 Cold Steel for the armour, and then hit it with P3 Armour Wash. I'm quite happy with how it turned out, it's exactly the way I wanted it. Used Reaper Black Wash on the cloak( almost used Reaper Pure Black!), just to get the folds to show. P3 Brass Balls (hee hee) on the hilt and pommel, and the P3 Pig Iron on the sword edged with P3 Cold Steel. Of course, I couldn't let the experiment end at that. I tried a bit of Citadel Retributor Armour for the cloak clasp, and it's like a little sun. I love that colour. Everyone on the forums knows how much I adore Tri-Art Liquid Mirror, but I never got the opportunity to try it out on miniatures. As you can see, the bracer got some love, and I may have blinded some of the Hangouts members. When I used Reaper Black Was on it, it dulled it down slightly, but it's still far bright than GW Mithril Silver. It's heavy body, but when it dries it conforms around the details underneath, so there's no loss at all. Also, I placed unwashed Liquid Mirror on his claws, because he has to look faaaaaaabulous. I did find that it can be watered down too much, at which point it slides away a bit. Tried P3 Jack Bone on his horns, but I didn't like the colour it had, so a coat of Reaper Mouldy Skin made things look right. Put a bit of Citadel Stirland Mud for texture, and I pretty much called it done. And this is my foray into the wonderful world of basing! I tried making my own static grass tufts with both white glue and hot glue; I found that the latter tends to work better, especially when you need to trim it with your X-Acto. Just a simple bit of playground sand for the base; didn't want anything to complicated, just wanted to test how it would look so I put it on quick and dirty. A final comparison shot of original figure vs. new awesomeness. Keep in mind that this is all just an experiment. I know that the painting is rough and that the basing could be cleaned up, but this was more of a test of several techniques and paints. I finally made my foray into basing and am beginning to understand what works and what doesn't. I found that D&D prepainted minis are perfect if you want cheap subjects to practice on, and Buglips isn't handy.

Just a couple of quick table top zombies I did during the hangouts about a week ago. I went for different skin tones on them to try and make them look a little different. C&C is always welcome; thanks for looking.

Been thinking about ways to play Warlord, even though there's no one around my area. I was wondering if anyone had considered playign Warlord using a virtual tabletop like Maptools? I have very limited experience with maptools, but it looks like you can program a framework that will make playing a game like Warlord much easier. In case you've never used Maptools or other VTs, they aren't video games. They are computer programs that allow you to play tabletop games by simulating dice, terrain, tokens, and measurements. Code exists in each token and other bit in the game, so the barebones interface can be molded to fit your desired game. In Maptools, you could turn off the grid and go with distance-based movement, then just use the dice and your paper army lists to play. Or you could program it so the interface would show things like character stats, status effects, and stuff like that. The game would not be automated, so you wouldn't be able to play without a rulebook. It would be very similar to the Army Creator's level of detail, where you can see all the stats but without the book you don't know exactly what they do. Still, I'd like to talk to whoever's in charge of Warlord and ask permission before working on a Maptools framework that would allow online Warlord play.