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A question for the greater reaper hive mind: I had 8 figures in a simple green bath...which I forgot about for many months. The archer left torso has a divot, as does the center torso ('83). Chick in right hand side(97) has her entire rear end gone. Figure center is the arm from a Pillager mech(93). A striker light tank (88?) has a similar divot formation on the cockpit and the turret. There was a magnet in the arm where the black hole is, the brown discoloration was not paint. Lead rot? Or did I unleash a hellish chemical reaction?

Last sunday I ordered Thelgar the Half Orc Barbarian figurine for my brother for our dnd group. When it came in the mail, we took discovered that the hands, which held the axe, were not attached to the rest of the body. At first we thought maybe they were to be attached, with little ball nubs or something. But when removed from the and attempted to attach, we realized that no they just somehow came apart in the shipping. I am very frustrated about the matter and have no idea what to do. I couldn't find anywhere on the Reaper Minis site to get into contact with the people who made the figurine. I'm glad my halfling came in just fine, but I'm very displeased with the fact that the Half Orc was not made well enough to handle being shipped.

A cursory search found nothing...but: has anyone tried painting a mini with green hair? Like a more subtle "natural" tone rather than blazing neon or something? The reason is 'currently' a surprise but if anyone has tips/tricks that'd be great!

Okay so, we got a new person in my gaming group and he wants to learn how to paint, simple enough. Right? Except he asked me to teach him and in my ecstasy I said, YES. Then I realized I have no idea how to teach someone how to paint. So, that's a minor problem. I would ask my father but in many ways I have surpassed his painting skills (not bragging, or at least not tring to) and he gets kinda grumpy when I ask him about stuff. Thus my dilemma, I don't want to send my friend to a video or whatever because it's easier to learn from a live person. So, help?

For an upcoming game (next year) I'll be running a level 1-20 campaign in a new world in which the players themselves were Gods before the Fall. Technology and magic have replaced the Gods, there is NO divine magic, no clerics or paladins of gods. It's been 1,000 years since people worshiped the gods. They've been forgotten, they were no longer needed, but the time has come where the Gods are reborn as mortals and must walk the earth and regain their powers, regain their followers, and regain their godhoods! This is the premise for my next game. The players will all be a bit more powerful than standard adventurers, they will 'unlock' some of their memories of their former selves every level, they will find ancient texts and temples to themselves, they will have Divine Powers which will unlock at certain tiers that deal with their chosen domains (chosen at character creation). Divine magic is only held by these Broken Gods as they harness it from their selves, there will be other evil Broken Gods trying to complete these labors/quests before them and ascend as well, they will be the only others with divine powers in the world. The help I'm needing right now is that the idea I have is to give these Broken Gods "trials," "quests," and "labors" (think the Labors of Heracles) for them to complete at every level from 1-20. I'm thinking they obviously get more complicated/difficult every level starting with very simple and easy at level 1 to proving they are truly god material at level 20 to finally ascend back into the heavens. What I'm asking for are your best ideas about what kinds of quests, trials, and labors I could toss at them whether they are to kill a mythical beast, recover a certain artifact, save a prince/princess, etc and what level you think would be appropriate, remember they are going to be more powerful than normal adventurers almost gestalt types. I'll choose the 20 best ideas and place them into my game!

I want to make a few bandana type hats for my Orks, as my theme with them is Pirates! I have silicon clay shapers, Greenstuff, vaseline and well, gumption. But I don't know quite how to go about this. I usually just use Greenstuff for gap filling and such. I was thinking of basically taking the GS, squishing it flat, and cutting triangles out of it, which I would then use to form the "hat" portion (I'm envisioning these like a kerchief if that helps make sense). One thing I'm very uncertain about is how to do a "knot" type look on the back? If anyone has any advice about the knot, or about the hat idea at all, I'd dearly love to hear it!

So - this is my first time "painting fire". It's not bad, but it's not good either... Advice for how to do it better next time? PS. I know that this figure is supposed to be a water creature, but I "made it work" to be a fire elemental lady who's an "ash mage" of sorts or whatever...

OK folks this is my most recent attempt at painting. I decided to do this mini in the color scheme of the Protectorate of Menoth from Warmachine. Basically I am doing a test paint to acclimate myself to the colors and techniques that I will use as I begin painting several minis for the Mk III release of Warmachine. I need some help though, I have had several missteps in this paint thus far and am struggling to see this as a success. 1) How should I highlight the white? Should I do darker tones around the highlight areas? 2) Should I use some liner to try and add some more contrast? I feel like the sculpt wasn't the best and then my mediocre painting skills don't help and I feel like a lot of the details this mini did have have been obscured by my crappy painting abilities. 3) I REALLY don't know how to highlight the top cape and the crest on the shield as that color is a combo of Bloodstain Red,Violet Light and then glazed over with Clear Magenta. I know that's a lot but there are very specific colors for the faction and I am trying to get as close to that as possible. 4) Can someone please explain Ink's to me? I used a red ink on the bottom cape as it was suggested somewhere else to help with contrast on similar colors and while I like the outcome, it shifted the color in a way that I didn't expect and am not certain how or why inks are used. 5) Finally, if anyone does play Warmachine as Menoth I would like to know what your thoughts are on my colors; I am currently only using Reaper paints.

Hey everyone, I have some metal miniatures I would like to base properly. I am not sure if my hobby knife will be able to cut through the thick metal base that comes with the minis, and would prefer not to break a blade. I am wondering what all of you use for this? Thanks in advance.

I've posted this before without any luck, but the recent demonstrations of miniature identification prowess give me some hope. What I know about this figure: he was one of two in a package, and I think the other was different. My brother bought them in a hobby shop in Massachusetts on a family vacation around 1976/7. The other one has gone missing, so we can't check for bottom markings. I painted and based this guy up in the early 90s, and I'm not so desperate yet as to break him off the base to see if there are any base markings. He looks a little like this Heritage mountain troll, but isn't: http://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=Image:Heritage-Fantasy-1314a.jpg You'd think the limited number of manufacturers at the time would make this easy...

Hey all, After sealing my Eregris Darkfathom tonight and reflecting on the experience of painting him, I discovered a few issues with my approach that I would really like to rectify before the next detail heavy mini (read: mini that I spend way too many hours on ). For the glove fringes and the tassles hanging from the pauldrons, I wanted a wash to create depth. However, the actual topography of these features is very shallow, so I had to let the wash sit there pretty heavily basically until it dried naturally (some areas I'll remove pooled wash with a clean brush if it's too much) in order to take hold in the cracks so to speak. The result was pretty much staining the whole area rather than just the little nooks I was shooting for. TL;DR - What are some preferred methods for creating depth or separation in very small areas where a wash won't sink into the desired areas without staining the foreground?

Hello, I used to paint Games Workshop miniatures when I was a kid, but was put off for many years by the price. Having found out about Reaper recently I decided to get back into it. I picked up the Learn to Paint Kit, a few extra Reaper miniatures and some extra paints/brushes. The valkyrie I have attached was my first attempt after a long break, and now I am getting onto the mouslings. I am having some difficulties though. I would love to hear any feedback on these difficulties I list or any other criticism or advice. With the valkyrie there are some parts I am quite happy with. Her right eye was never great, and has got messed up a bit somehow (I am dreading fixing it, maybe I should get some greenstuff and fashion an eyepatch?). Also her face has a kind of chalky look to it that I don't know how to avoid. I didn't have any gold paint, so I tried to do her armor as leather with metal features. On the chest that seems to have gone quite badly. For the hair I think it could do with more "depth" but I am having trouble working out how to achieve that. Her base I am actually quite happy with (in contrast to the other miniatures). As cliched as it is, I was going for an "evil albino" look with the mousling assassin. Having looked again at the stock photo in the store I may try to put some of the caucasian flesh colour I have on his nose. I had tried mixing up a pink before but it looked way too "valentines day". His eyes are also looking pretty flat, and I'm also having some trouble making his fur look "furry". The bases on these mouslings (and some other miniatures I have) have been a real challenge to get looking right. Recently I have been trying basecoating with shadowed stone, washing with brown liner, and highlighting with leather brown, but whatever I do I can't get it where I'm happy with it. I decided to do the druid more as a wizard (I bought a trio of reds for a dragon I am holding off on painting so I want to use those). I have had issues painting the orb in his staff (I want it to have some sort of blue mystical look). I was having problems with the colour of the staff or the orb flowing into the crevice between them and looking bad, so I did a sort of outline with diluted brown liner and now plan to paint the orb "up to" the edge without the paint flowing into it. I am happy with his eyes, but his fur is also a struggle. I was going for "black mouse" though I then switched to "dark grey mouse" so I could try to get some shading in. The thief and beekeeper I am really just basecoating for now (I include them here so I can follow up with them later). I had some trouble with the pale saffron yellow being weird, but I think it just required far more shaking than I was giving it. Thank you for reading.

So what do you all use for thinning your paint? I am using reaper paints and have been told by some of you all that I need to thin out my paints. I have tried adding water(distilled) but the pigment doesn't seem to stick together. I have been doing a 50/50 mix. Is this the ratio? Do I need flow Aid? Or acrylic matte medium? Or Slow-dri? If so what formula do you use? I know it's a lot of questions sorry just looking to get better at my painting.Thank you all in advance for all the help I know you all will give me. :)

So in the spirit of ReaperBryan's Redecorate My Office thread, I'm going to ask you guys for some help with part of my basement game room. Unlike Bryan and his office, I do sort of have a theme for my game room which is basically medieval times meets Stargate address archive meets nerd cave. (I didn't say it was a good theme). Anyway, my wife, who is a stained glass artist, promised me she would make me six pieces of stained glass of my design for use in the window shutters I started for the three basement windows. The shutters will replace the shades, and by having them glass, I'll be able to leave them closed, but still hopefully let a lot of light in. My problem is that for the last three years, I haven't finished my part of the project because I can't decide what designs I want for the stained glass. Which means my wife can't do hers. The problem isn't coming up with a design or two, but coming up with ideas that look good together, can be paired (each window will have two pieces - one on each side of the shutter), AND can be made with at least 60% lighter translucent colors of glass to allow light in. So what do you think would look cool for stained glass in a game room? Each piece would be approximately 12" wide, by about 14" high, and as I mentioned, each shutter would have a right and left piece. I don't care if the pair in each window are part of the same design, or just along the same themes. I do want them to be somewhere in the sci-fi or fantasy realm. I do have to draw all of the patterns myself (or commission someone to do them, which cuts into my glass budget). here's some pics to give you a better idea: Here are two of the windows in the corner with the video games: Here is a sample of my book shelves with gaming, reference and fictions books, as well as some overflow hobby stuff. like Bones creatures: And finally, here's one of the other walls near the bar area:

I am moving this to it's own thread.... Posted Today, 10:21 PM I bought some Sculpy today as well, but I plan on making a well, similar to 02634: Well Of Doom, but without the tentacles. (Bonus, Nice cashier lady had a 50% off coupon that she used for me!) And other dungeon dressing things. I was surprised at how malleable the stuff is, I expected to have to knead it for a long time, but it was pliable and easy to work with in under 5 minutes. So I started by making a circle 13/4" in diameter and about an 1/8 in thickness. I then laid a 'worm' of sculpy about 1/4 in in diameter around the outside, and proceeded to use clay shapers to blend it into the base, and then flatten the top, and carve a pattern like laid stone around the outside. I plan on another 2 pieces about the same size on top, so that the whole thing will be about 5/8 in tall or so. Pics of first layer: Astrid the Chronicler for Scale: The baking directions say 15min @ 275 deg F per 1/4 in. I am guessing that would be for a solid object. As mine is going to be more of a torus, about a 1/4 in thick, do I bake for 15 min? or longer due to the height? I have heard that sculpy doesn't like to be burned.... Also. I am sculpting this on the bottom of an upside down pyrex dish. when the sculpy is baked, will it come off the pyrex without breaking???? Thanks for any and all help! 8) George

Hello, I bought some miniatures off e-bay. The Crusader robot from ghost studios. Each Sprue is one robot, and has like 20+ pieces. I cant find any info on Ghost studios or what game this is from. There are a lot of small pieces and I am hoping someone knows what these are and can point me to a build guide or some info on how to make them. I constructed one... Incorrectly... Left leg looks backwards, I think i reversed the arms... etc... Even wrong it still looks pretty good... especially at $1 each... So, if anyone knows what these are, please help. Here are the photos that were on the e-bay listing.. https://www.facebook.com/bredford2/media_set?set=a.10207875023418009.1073741832.1368585393&type=3 Thank you, Bill

i need some one to give me alittle advice for painting gnolls. i am trying to get good shading and high lights using a light yellow tan for a base. washing it with a grey wash and then highlighting it with a yellow but my colors keep comming out muddy. i know it will be difficult with nothing to look at and critique. but if some one can suggest a better color scheme or another topic on the forums i would be greatful. thanks.

Alright, I'm still new to sculpting but I wanted to replicate something a friend of mine drew. Unfortunately after several failed attempts I haven't made too much progress. What I want is "this" What I made, is "this" I'd like some pointers and words of wisdom and maybe some instructional pictures to help me out with this project.

I'm looking for two minis for my DND 5e character Sir Dustin Bladesong. Unmounted Sir Dustin wears heavy plate & helm (could be on ground or in hand as well). He wields a mighty two handed Greatsword. Mounted the Noble Sir Dustin has lance and shield. His stead Nightmare is a well trained and brave horse. Bonus points for his 3 squires: Tom Tomm rides a pony and plays the lute, Sven and Hunt double on horse back and have musical instruments and a banner.

Was wondering if anyone new the dimensions on this fine looking specimen! http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/griffon/latest/03662

So 6 months ago, I committed to my co-DM for our D&D game that I would build a puzzle prop we could give t the playrs piece by piece. Well, at tomorrow's session, she'll be handing out the first of 7 pieces. So I kind of have to get it built tonight. The concept is that it's a brass tube within which five lenses are fitted, and a map piece placed at the end. When the lenses are rotated to the proper position, and the viewer looks through, the treasure location is revealed upon the map. I have the "brass tube" built, and the "map" made (a Pringles can with a view hole punched into the bottom, and the map pasted into the inside of the lid. The lens pieces are to be fitted into five different slots that I've made on the Pringles can, and can be rotated about 135 degrees. Where I'm having a problem is figuring out how to actually decorate and punch the holes in the "lenses" to get them to line up with my map. I can make it work by just punching some holes in the inserts, but that seems like it would be too easy to figure out. Only 2-3 of the lenses would be needed to confirm the location. I thought about each lens having a different set of rectangular slots, but not really certain how to get them to line up. Any thoughts or advice? Examples?

I've been fiddling with my Verocithrax as of recent. His base was extremely warped so I had to fix that and make it nice and flat, but now I'm trying to pre place the tree in the notch and it's difficult getting it under the tail properly, and when I do it's all crooked and the base is being forced to warp again. I'm trying to make sure the tree isn't being bent, I don't want to accidentally break it. Am I doing something wrong, is anyone else having these same problems?

OK, I know this isn't Reaper (sorry Reaper, you'll always be number one in my book) but I'd really like to get my hands on this. Maybe I'm just blind, but I can't seem to figure out where or if even this is available for purchase. So I turn to you guys/gals in a last ditch effort. And... apparently I can't post a picture here for some reason... So i'll describe it. It's from Achtung! Cthulhu, and its a Deep One with a Thompson machine gun strapped across his chest. If you Google Deep One under images it will come up. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, I'm planning on painting one of my Bones II dragons as a white dragon. I'm thinking of using Factory White and some Snow Shadow for the underbelly and wing webbings. Anyone have any tips for painting white. I guess my big questions are, Should I undercoat the white? What color should i use as a wash? Should I wash it? Any tips would be much appreciated.

I'm going to attempt painting a bones High Elf Adventurer as one of my D&D. One of the things he has is kind of cloak of invisibility (it's called something else in the book) and I wanted to make it look like his cloak is phasing out of invisibility kind of similar to this awesome paint job. Problem is, a forest/dungeon like scene is a bit more difficult to paint as compared to a space scene like this one. Does anyone have any advice or tips to pull off a similar effect?