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Found 7 results

  1. While shopping at Reaper's booth during ReaperCon, my friend and I noticed that a tiny fraction of the HD paints had a white label. Ladystorm mentioned that they were transitioning from a yellow label to a white label and that the caps may also will be switching to grey. The reason was that the yellow ink on the label was just a few microns too thick for the label machine causing unnecessary jams. So just wanted to give people a heads up that they will soon start seeing new labels on the HD paints.
  2. I didn't realize until I saw the post from March 2nd about the new minis that some of your minis are actually made with metal material. Prior to knowing this I had ordered some minis and some paints. The one half orc sorcerer mini (the one with the cool armor and holding his staff with both hands), Dorly, the Halfling with the musket. And a shadowguard mini. Noticing their prices were a little bit more expensive than the normal reaper bones minis, I assumed that these pieces were a better quality plastic, but are they actually made of metal? Like how the new Lich piece is from March
  3. Forgive me if any of these questions are prominently answered somewhere. I've been reading through a lot of materials here on the site and forums and learned a lot, but a few things I still didn't find answers on. What is liner? I've seen several paints called liner but I have no idea what that means or how it's different from the other paints. I understand washes and drybrushing, what they're good for and how to do them, but can somebody explain glazing to me? What should I be looking for in a glaze, and when should I use one? How should I use one? When would one use an MSP HD pai
  4. Hey all! I know about the Chart at Dakka Dakka for GW etc, but I have been reading articles on the Craft and elsewhere that talk about Pro Paint Colors in the tutorials and such, and wonder if there is an equivalency chart somewhere? As I don't use all that much Reaper paint atm, I will still have to look it up in the store or in Casketworks.* But at least I will be able to try to match with what I have on hand... Thanks for any and all help! George *(Yes I like having Hard copy catalogues)
  5. I had asked this question in the LPK5 WIP thread but hadn't heard a response so thought I would toss it out here in hopes of hearing what people had to say. My apologies if the double post is taboo, Anyhoo, the instructions in LPK5 don't mention how to do the hair (likely because it is covered in an earlier LPK -- which unfortunately I only have LPK1). So, for my dwarf, I am considering making him a red head, but have a very limited paint collection. I have LPK1 and 5 (neither of which are any help in the red head department). I also have the first set of the MSP HD colors (1-18 I beli
  6. I have had an issue with two bottles of the MSP HD paints. After curing the paints cracks and peels or flakes off easily. At first I thought I was not shaking the bottles enough, but after testing that theory by shaking one for several minutes, it still cracked after curing. The two giving me issues are 29816 Solid Blue and 29808 Golden Yellow. I've had both for 18 months or so. Other bottles bought at the same time seem fine. My question is this: do the MSP HD paints require thinning with water or acrylic medium? Or are these just two bottles that happen to be bad? I ask because I would l
  7. With my army of bones arriving in the next few weeks, I've been trying to decide on how to handle priming (or not priming) them. It seems that many hear are very happy with just cleaning them and base coating straight on them. So I'm going to give that a go as well as trying a primer version and a base wash version. I know I'll have bones to experiment with this on (the non-fantasy ones at a minimum). But given that, it seems to me that the HD paints would be great for that base coat in order to give good initial coverage. My issue is that I plan to start with using triads for my initi
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