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Found 149 results

  1. A Bones Orc Berserker. I'm trying to learn to paint shading on skin, primarily, although I decided to do this orc in green with the olive greens triad. I also decided to try a rust effect for the armor (inspired by somebody's verdegris post). I started with a Ruddy Brown base, heavy drybrushed steel over it, and then dabbed bits of the lava triad oranges on it with my most goofed up drybrush brush. I should make my players save against tetanus with this guy. I see from the zoomed up image that I seemed to have left some gaps in his armpits which is really frustrating, and I'm starting to get bummed out about my lack of basing ability...
  2. I know I mentioned wanting to do this in a post somewhere a while back. However, the time has come to do it. I work in a lab at the local hospital and we use these test tube mixers for various intricate lab reasons. Anyway, I've been eyeing them since I started working here. Naturally I wanted them to mix paints at home. Luckily I also have an awesome boss who agreed to let me have them when we exchanged them. Which was yesterday. Behold! It works great! So if you work in a lab.. :P Edit: and before you guys point it out. Of course I completely disassembled and sterilized it before putting it on my kitchen table. It's probably a lot less hazardous than my two cats at this point.
  3. So I've been noticing and it's kind of obnoxious that every so often I'm finding really small hairs, maybe a millimeter or five while I'm painting pushing around paint lately. Has anybody else ever had this issue? I sometimes wonder if it's the paintbrushes I use, currently Rosemary and Co. I don't remember this happening much when I was using the Winsor and Newton series 7 brushes....
  4. New rthread for a new month. I'm still determined to clear my painting queue this year and doing these WIP and getting C&C from everyone really motivates me to keep pushing through. So on to the fun. I was stuck for a few days deciding what to start with so I grabbed a few bones from my collection to get my gears going. First up is Goldar. I had started this guy a while ago in metal but lost motivation after his axe snapped and I had a difficult time keeping it reattached. But I've always been fond of the figure and thought it had a lot of character. I did take some WIP pics but they were super blurry since I'm still taking photos with my iPhone, so here is where he stands now. The next figure is from bones 2 heroes and villains option i think, the female spartan. Started with the reds this time since I tend to have issues blending it the way I like consistently. I think I'll be painting the armor silver with some antique gold highlights and I'm not sure about the stone yet. Maybe an earth tone? As always C&C welcomed and appreciated.
  5. I've been looking at various paint racks and their costs. After looking around a bit I decided to try my hand at making one. I'm intentionally trying to do this without power tools to make it as easy as possible for people with limited resources. Tools: 2" C clamp Ruler Razor Knife Coping saw Hammer Components: Wood Glue 2 boards 1/4" x 2" x 48" (actual 1/4" x 1.5" x 48") for outer box 1 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 96 in. Pine Moulding 8 fet 1/4 x 1 1/8 Pine Lattice Moulding 1 sheet 1/4'' x 12'' x 24'' Aircraft grade birch craft plywood Brad Nails Cost (excluding nails and glue) $15 I started off by cutting the outer frame pieces, and gluing and clamping them to the plywood sheet: Then I cut 2 pieces of the pine lattice moulding to the proper height for my shelves (3 1/4" for Reaper dropper bottles) and the shelves. I put glue on the three edges of the shelf that match up with the plywod and frame. I use the 2 height pieces and place the shelf, clamping the ends in place. As you can see with the first shelf, you'll get 11 bottles per shelf. I'm expecting to get about 66 or 77 bottles on a rack Next up: finishing the shelves, adding the front moulding to keep the paints on the shelves
  6. At the risk of sounding unforgivably lazy: Does there exist any sort of "mechanical helper" for thoroughly shaking up dropper bottles of paint? I have split shot in my bottles, but I'm talking about something like that vibration thing they have at the home improvement stores for quickly agitating gallons of housepaint. When I'm sitting there shake-shake-shaking for a minute or more, I can't help but think how nice it would be if there were some sort of device I could tuck 4 or 5 bottles at a time into and get them all nicely agitated at one go. Am I dreaming the impossible dream?
  7. So Doc had mentioned (I think in "Minis we'd like to see") about how he'd like to have a purple paint for his hat. It made me think if I had a paint, what color would it be? Feel free to list your choice or other Forumites. I'll try to keep this post updated with the suggestions. Oh and Anne feel free to run with these Buglips Stanky Sock (White/Yellow) Ludo Bowler black Ludo Fur Brown Friendly Rock (grey) MissMelons MissMelons's Melons (Green) You were expecting a different color? Mischievous Purple NomadZeke Sith Saber (Red) OneBoot Ninja Kitty (pinkish purple) ReaperBryan Byranzilla (Green) The Hat ​SamuraiJack Bushido Black Ronin Red Katana Silver ShadowRaven Raven Shadow (Dark Blue) Ub3r_n3rd Barbarian Rage (Red flesh wash) Ub3r Blu3
  8. Now, while looking through various miniature manufacturers for strange and interesting minis that caught my fancy, I ran across "Crocodile Games" which made a series of miniatures for their own Egyptian mythos themed game. Going though their line up I noticed one or two strange minis in their "Sebeki" line of heros. These croc dudes are also the same dudes that is in their logo, and thus their mascot. In which I ran across the "Crocogamer", a special edition mini. Being a bit of a pudgy nerd myself, I couldn't help but buy this guy and basically paint him up as a caricature of myself of sorts, a fun prod at my geekyness. Not to mention he looks like he just got back from a con, so I kind of wanted this as my consolation prize for not making Reaper Con. He didn't have an integrated base so this was one of the first bases I've made, mostly using Milliput and one of the Reaper bases I got from the Bones II kickstarter. And thankfully it doesn't look entirely out of place. I worked hard on him, and I'm proud, I even added a tiny bit of glue to the cup to make it liquidy. Anyway, I worked hard on him and am waiting for a non rainy day to give him a nice dull coat to protect that hard worked over paint. Tell me what you think, don't be shy, I know I've got a long way to go :D
  9. Got this cute little fellow in the mail the other day. Never painted anything this big, and wanted to show my progress and experiences. First I glued him together. Was really surprised about the fact that it wasn't actually necessary to use glue, yet I did it just in case. Then applied some green stuff in the cracks. The black stain on the base is me testing the rumor about washes not sticking to bones. And that was true. Luckily the rumor about mixing dish soap in the paint, to fix it, was also true. Never painted with dish soap before, so that was.. interesting. So then I covered him in a basecoat of gloss varnish, before I painted white over the green stuff, and gave him a nice wash of dark, purple ink. Once that was almost dry, I started adding a dark blue wash: Painted in the flesh, bones and eye. Also applied a drybrush of dark blue: One more drybrush and pondering on how to continue the wings: Edit: This capable young lady will be the rider:
  10. Hello everybody! I made a little paint shaker-mixer, of which I am quite proud of. Very simple, very silent, and not terribly efficient but it helps. It is a nice addition to my painting desk. In the video you can see it in action, along with an explanation of how it was made. Hope you like it!
  11. Hello all, I have been model making for a long time. I just ran into an issue with the bones line of minis. I cleaned as much of the flash I could get off of the minis, then I used a hobby specific super glue to attach a base to the minis. Then I primed the minis and base with a spray enamel primer. Then I used a combination of Reaper, Vallejo and craft (Delta, Amercana and such) acrylic paints on the minis. No problem so far. I gave them a general wash of dark burnt umber and then dry brushed them, these are acrylic products as well. I then added a mixture of flocking and static grass on the base. I applied two coats of dull coat and called it good. A week later we got out the minis for the first time to use in a Savage world campaign and they were fine. Two weeks later we played the same campaign but when we got out the minis from the foam carrying case I noticed the minis were a little gloomy and slightly sticky. I'm thinking something leached through the paint to the surface. Has this happened to anyone? If so any ideas how to fix it?
  12. Alright, this is less showing off and more about getting critiques about my more recent "ambitious but rubbish" project. I had three goals in mind when doing this one, make him look the part of a nasty angler fish with appropriate coloration, paint corrosion on the copper/brass armor, and attempt to make it look like his lure was glowing with an osl effect. The latter two things I haven't done before and from the looks of this current effort I still need some practice.
  13. I usually use Reaper and Vallejo paints. However, I'm curious about a couple of the citadel technical and dry paints, specially the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust to create rust and corrosion effects. Any thoughts on how to achieve similar results with Reaper or Vallejo?
  14. Hello everybody! I'm looking to paint one of my dragons in a metallic brown color. So I'm trying to figure out which of Reaper's metal paints are the most brownish. It looks like 9049 Ancient Bronze, 9125 Scorched Metal, or 61132 Drillbit Metal might be what I'm looking for? Normally I'd go to my FLGS to compare colors side by side. The sample pics on the site don't always capture the color though. For example my Old Bronze looks quite a bit different the what I'd expect from the online picture. Unfortunately the store here doesn't carry all the Reaper colors. So does anybody happen to know which of the metallic paints would be the most brownish (least orangish) in color?
  15. I always hear "thin your paint". What do you use to thin your paints and where can i get some? I've been using water, but that's not the greatest. For instance, I was painting some armor with Honed steel. Honed steel will get really thick quick, so I added a little water. It became way to watery and bubbly. But more importantly I need something to wet blend better. I only recently learned that the way to wet blend well is to thin your paints and do lots and lots of coats. Water doesn't work so well for that.
  16. As i wrote in another post here, I used "stainless steel" ball bearings as agitators in most of my paints after transferring them to drop bottles last year. And a couple of weeks ago, I discovered ball-shaped rust-brown discolorations through the bottoms of some of the paint bottles. Not so stainless after all. argh! So I spent a couple of hours last night fishing the offending balls out of the paints with the metal bit on an old brush and a magnet. messy affair as you might imagine. However, I got a few surprises. 1. Some of the balls had...grown, Big cancerous lumps were present on them, and were flat where they had lain on the bottom or sides of the bottle they had been in. seems the paint had not only rusted the balls, but reacted and made some sort of hardish "growths". 2. Some of the balls were stuck. they would not come out even when prodded vigourously with a pointy stick. actually broke my stick without dislodging one of them. "Dug in like an Alabama tick" to quote Ventura. 3. The rusted balls had gone blackish and pitted beneath the gunk and paint. not rust coloured at all. the rust colour could only be seen through the bottle itself, and did not seem to affect the colour of the paint. (probably not enough of it to matter.) 4. and strangest of all: paint from the Army painter, vallejo, citadel (several different older types), gamecraft, coat d'arms, -all had rusted balls. but not Reaper. NONE of the balls in my Reaper Paints had corroded. at all. Nice and shiny as the day they were put in. this i find really strange, as the different makes including reaper do seem to have more or less the same smell, and mix with no problems, Which leds me to belive they were similar chemically. Might anybody know why this is? yes, I know I should have thought of taking some pictures, but my fingers were covered in paint. (they still are in places. some of that simply won't scrub off.) and anyway, here is a shiny ball, there is a black ball, here is a paintcoverd lump of mini stalagmites. not too exiting really. So now, I hope that the hematite beads i dropped in the paint instead actually are hematite and not rip-offs like the so-called "stainless steel" balls were.
  17. I've noticed that when I get minis that come in multiple pieces, they often don't line up precisely. The bigger the mini, the more gaps and distortion there seem to be. Specifically, I recently got #10006 Gauth (!!!GRANDFATHER! OF DRAGONS!!!)!) and the pieces of the body have some significant gaps now that I've got him assembled. I'd like to paint him for the 2015 annual diorama contest, but before I prime I'd like to make sure my finished product is going to look smooth and complete. Does anyone have any suggestions? What materials do you use? Etc. Also, I've never done a fig this big before. Is one bottle of paint going to be enough for the base color, or do I need to order more before I get started? I use the 1/2 oz bottles of Master Series Paint. I'd hate to get started on my base coat and find that I don't even have enough paint.
  18. I'm just wondering because my FLGS has a couple of sets of transparent tints. A 12 color set and a 16 color set. I thought they were badger originally, but apparently they are not. I realize they'd probably be designed for airbrush, but I'm wondering how they'd be used as brush on with medium, for example. Might they function like inks or reaper clears? I'd also like to know from anyone who's used them how they feel about the results, and please post links/pics if you have any. Thank you. edit: This is what I'm talking about.
  19. So which of these blue spray paints would you use on a rather large Tardis model? http://www.liquitex.com/us/shop/paints/professional/spray-paint/36093/
  20. Since I noticed there were folks who were distressed at not getting a bottle of Ginger Cookie paint, and I also noticed that Ginger Cookie was very close to Stained Ivory, I did a little paint mixing experiment this morning. On the right, Stained Ivory and Ginger Cookie side by side. On the left, some paint mixing. At the top, Earth Brown and Stained ivory. Below, Leather Brown and Stained Ivory. Each shown with a dot of Ginger Cookie (unlabeled) next to the mixed color.
  21. I am moving to another city to look for work, and can't take my paints because there isn't enough room in my sister's apartment to store or use them (plus she would kill me if paint got on anything). I am planning to store them with my other things at my parents' house until I get myself settled, which could be between 6-9 months, possibly longer in a worst case scenario. I've got a mix of paints, mostly Vallejo, P3, some RMS, a few Coat d'Arms. Right now they are being stored in the basement, sealed tight. I am anticipating at least one trip home during that period, and I intend to give them all a good shake at that time. Are there any further measures I should take so they remain viable? Thanks!
  22. New to the hobby and wondering both what people use to thin their paints, and whatever other 'essential' mixes are in your painting caddy. FLGS carries primarily Reaper MS paints/additives, so that's the stock I'm learning on. Planning on getting some empty dropper bottles soon, and trying to figure out what'd be most useful to put in them. I've seen a few stickied tutorials/threads with some info, but most are a few years old, and have either dead links, or are based off older paints, so I'm curious what works best with the current formulas. So - do you have a particular favorite mix? Does it vary for base coats, layers, washes, etc? Metallics? Metal vs Bones? Basically, what's your homebrew secret?
  23. Hello! I'll apologize right now if this isn't in the best place for it. I am a painting virgin, having only flirted with craft paint and plastic army men; but I think I'm ready for the big one. I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Bones 2 Kickstarter, and I want to have the widest variety of colors to cover the most situations. I am purchasing the Bones LtPK durring this glorious promotion that Reaper is doing, and I will have the first MSP HD paint add-on from the KS. Given the paint that comes in each, what colors/items am I missing that would help me have the widest range of colors for the best price? (I only need an item or two to get up to the $40 threshold to qualify for the Ghoulie bag). For help's sake, I will list the colors I will have below. 9030- Leather Brown 9037- Black 9039- White 9053- Honed Steel 9054- Polished Silver 9085- Shadowed Stone 9200- Harvest Brown 9228- Viper Green 9271- Dirty Bone 29801- Crimson Red 29806- Fireball Orange 29809- Pale Saffron x2 29811- Turf Green 29815- Dragon Blue x2 29820- Gem Purple 29822- Suntan Flesh 29823- Caucasian Flesh 29827- Griffon Tan 29829- Woodland Brown 29830- Ruddy Brown 29832- Concrete Grey Are there any glaring holes in my color selection? Are there any recommendations you have for what I should get in the name of variety and coverage? Is Reaper's brush-on primer worth it? I look forward to reading your wisdom! Thanks! IryokuHikari
  24. I'm pretty sure this will not affect Reaper paint at all (it being non-toxic and all). But I wonder what other paints out there that miniature painters use might be affected? http://online.wsj.com/articles/an-obituary-for-color-yellow-orange-and-red-1412718962
  25. I've been thinking about scanning paint swatches in digitally to get RGB / CMYK interpretations of them lately. I remember there being an old database where someone had done some of this that is now gone. Looking over my photography equipment here I realize I have a spectrophotometer that I use to calibrate all of my photo printers and monitors. So it seems to me it should be just as good at scanning color swatches of paint and getting RGB / CMYK values for them as well. If it works then I could have a database of these that could be useful for finding similar colors from other paint brands past and present. It will also get me into seeing all of my colors and giving all of my paints good shakes as a bonus. So I want to give this a try with a few colors and see how well it does work. But my problem is when I create these color swatches, what should I paint them on? So that is my question for the more art and paint experienced people here, what would be a good paper or material to use to make these swatches on? Is there something specific in the art world that would make a good place to paint on?
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