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Found 148 results

  1. So my reaper minis finally came in the mail! Yay! They're awesome, but I'm having a little trouble with the assembly so if any of you more experienced folks could help me out I'd really appreciate it. Issue #1: One of the figurines' legs are spread in a manner that does not fit the base. Namely, the Cthulhu one (the Kaladrax is giving me a little trouble too but not as much). I would litterally have to bend the legs awkwardly to make it fit on its base. Is this normal for reaper products? What do I need to do to fix it? Or do I need to call reaper and ask them for an exchange? What does everyone else normally do in this situation? Issue #2: Are you supposed to paint all the pieces first or assemble and glue them together first? Does anyone know?
  2. In my years of airbrushing I have found that certain thinners aren't really thinners. Windex, Ammonia, and Isopropyl alcohol are not thinners, but they are solvents. They will break down your paint, and they will cause clogs more often. (Ammonia will slowly destroy the brass parts of your airbrush.) Also these three liquids are pretty poisonous when aeresolized. They are great for cleaning your brush but aren't the best for thinning paint. Yes airbrush mediums/thinners are more expensive, but they are made for paint. They actually thin without breaking down the paint. They are less poisonous then the above liquids. Now believe it or not you can thin with just water. It's not the greatest of things to thin with but it is better than alcohol, ammonia, or window cleaner, and by far the cheapest alternative.
  3. bugblatterbeast

    Plans to paint on the cheap

    I have done my research. I can not afford to buy Reaper paints at this time. I am buying acrylic craft paint from Hobby Lobby. Current best recommendation is Delta Creamcoat paint. This seems like the best plans for a beginner on a budget. Feel free to critique my plans, but remember, I am trying to get quality results on a budget. My plans: Unboxing- I have a graphical checklist of all the minis to be sure we aren't missing anything. http://greg.botch.com/bones/table.html Remove the mold lines that are really, terribly obvious. Tools: Xacto blade and sanding needles (medium or fine) http://bit.ly/1axuY7O Straightening bent weapons and legs. Tools: nearly boiling water, colander Cleaning- remove residue from manufacturing that could keep paint from adhering well. Tools: dish soap and water Fill junction gaps between parts that join to make up the mini that look odd Tools: 2 part clay-like epoxy (a bit of an experiment) http://thd.co/14MHBtl [That epoxy was too coarse and cured too quickly. I'm keeping it around for household repairs. Kneadatite (Green Stuff) on eBay $6 for 6 inches shipping included sounds like a great deal!] Basing- some minis have ridiculous bases and need to be based. I have hundreds of 1/4 inch thick bases cut from wooden dowels for this project. Tools: Xacto blade, tiny drill bit, straightened and cut paper clips, super glue, 2 part clay-consistency epoxy (for embellishing, building up layers, or filling gaps) Priming- do many figures at once. Cheap craft store acrylic paints are too thick and need to be watered down to paint minis well. If craft paints are watered down, they will not stick as well to Bones without priming. Thus, I will need to prime. Tools: this craft primer http://bit.ly/16jHwwp [i couldn't acquire this primer anywhere locally. So frustrating! I decided to buy Krylon Paint + Primer spray. White seemed like a great idea, but it is hard to see what kind of coverage I am getting on the Bones. It takes a day or longer to fully dry. It is a week later and one mini is still tacky in a couple places.] Color washing- give the mini a base coat of color to bring out the details and add shadowy areas. Tools: brush, watered down craft paint with a tiny amount of dish soap to break surface tension Paint- use a "wet palette" to keep the paint fresher longer and make mixing and watering down easier. Image http://bit.ly/1axxmvq Tools: cheap plastic container, a large rag or sponge, parchment paper http://bit.ly/12e9cOG See example here: http://forums.brushthralls.com/index.php?showtopic=4806 And of course paints and brushes. Finishing- I haven't decided if I will be clear-coating these yet. If I do, I will get some good quality spray for minis with for a matte (not gloss) finish. This is where I will splurge on costs, if anywhere. Optional Painting party- I will have all the minis cleaned, primed, based, and color washed before I host it. I have done no painting of Bones. I am not certain that any of this will work. However, after reading FAQs and how-to's all around the web, I feel confident this will work. My big concern is with the plumbing epoxy instead of Green Stuff. I have no idea if it will hold paint. I will test it before applying to the minis. Let me know what you think! Veteran painters- constructive criticism would be great. I don't want to waste money on a useless/misguided step. Edit: reordered gap filling after cleaning at Godlike's suggestion Edit: added recommended craft paint brand Edit: my concerns were founded about the plumbing epoxy. While it does hold paint, it is too coarse. Also the primer I initially wanted is not locally available in my significant metropolitan area (850,000+ people) in our major craft stores. I didn't check at specialty glass or tile stores. Edit: check post http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49906-plans-to-paint-on-the-cheap/?p=738738 for my first attempt following most of these steps.
  4. Given that the Bones express will be reaching my door step on the sooner side now, I've been thinking about the many LARGE models that I will be getting and how to handle them. And it seems like perhaps stepping into using an air brush for them could make good sense. But this leads me to a few questions for people who are doing this before I would invest in something like this. I'm not looking for any recommendations on equipment, there are MANY good videos and posts out there about that. First off is simply, how well does the reaper paint (MSP and MSP HD) work in a air brush? Do you need to thin out the paint from the bottle to use it? If so, what sort of ratios? And secondly, I've been able to find videos on "general" usage of the air brush and usage on non-fantasy minis (tanks, etc). Does anyone have any advice or pointers to anything that would show someone using a air brush on a large figure like a dragon? I'd like to use the air brush for more than just the base coating given the size of the figure (highlighting, etc). So any pointers on how to approach this would be great. And I do realize that brush work will still be needed. Thanks in advance!
  5. psyberwolfe1

    Badger Paint Mixer

    Does anyone have the Badger paint mixer/stirrer? Can it fit in an MSP Bottle? I was also think of making a custom stirrer to mount in my Dremel. Thoughts?
  6. I figured out that I am now over 100 paints, 83 unique, from Reaper. So, I bought the paint caddy and stuffed all of them in... Took them out, arranged them by number... Took them out and arranged them by color.... Now, they are back on the work table... Taking up a ton of space, which was the reason to order the caddy... I already have vertical storage for the 2 oz and 4 oz craft paints I paint terrain, and I am not pleased with that. Maybe I am being too finicky. How do you store your paint and still have access to paint. Ultimate goal is to be able to multi task the space I have beween painting miniatures and painting terrain.
  7. Any suggestions for a starter paint set? Certain must have colors, etc.? I have some old Ral Partha figures I think i'm going to mess around with at first. Thank you in advance.
  8. I have a resin figure with several layers of paint that need to come off. I'm very attached to it so I don't want to damage it removing the paint. Should I just try Simple Green or is there something else I should use?
  9. One thing i have heard several times from different painters at ReaperCon and at Paint Club is a wish for a purchasable set of paints that were only available at certain events. There have been some incredible colors released as a "one time only" paint, then years later, you run out, it dries, is "borrowed", or you were unable to attend that event... And you cannot replace it. What type of miniature or paint bottle sacrifice can we offer to those who could make this possible to..... make this possible? Just an idea.
  10. So in preparation for the arrival of the ks bones I recently ordered some craft acrylics, specifically these . Now I have read on some other sites about people complaining that craft acrylics have a smaller "pigment/medium ratio" than model paints because you have to dilute the craft paints more. So first question, in your own experience how true is this statement? And second question, if the above is held to be true, could this not be remedied by just using more brush strokes when painting? Also since im on the topic of using different types of paints I may as well ask this: Is it possible to use both craft and model paints of the same mini or does this combination go horribly wrong? Actually this question should be asked in two parts. First when talking about using the two on different layers, ie: craft for base/shading/highlights and model for details or any combination of base/shading/highlights and detail between the two types. Second when talking about mixing the two types of paints for creating custom colours?
  11. Stumbled on these. The guy does a really good impartial review of the 4 major brands and the qualities and such of each one. Newest without Citadel/GW paint Reaper vs Vallejo: Citadel/GW vs P3
  12. redambrosia

    Paint and Green stuff

    I have a couple of pieces I'm working on right now which, due to their fiddly bits, will require green stuff in their joints. However, also due to their fiddly bits, I have to paint under the bits I'm attaching before I attach them, otherwise I'd never be able to paint under them all the way (or make it look good anyway). Does anyone have advice on how to approach this? I'm worried about ruining my paint job with green stuff or wrestling the bits in their joints.
  13. I looked but did not see a list of guidelines or rules for submissions for the paint competition for Reapercon. I know that only all reaper miniatures are eligible for a Sophie, but what are the categories this year and are their any rules for submissions? I heard a rumor that there will not be an ordinance section this year? Also I am asking about rules because I have some ideas but some may consider them... bending the line of decency. Remember, I paint next to Martin at Paint club... :) Just wanted to make sure that there were no offensive dioramas submitted or over the top paints. Thanks, Xanderhook
  14. Demogon

    Paint Brushes

    Hi, Just looking for some advice it's been around 10 years since I painted any minis and I backed the Kickstarter so just wondering what kind of brushes people have been using and where do you get them? The small town I live in has no hobby shop! Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
  15. smokingwreckage

    Browns and Colour Theory

    I lost the thread, someone asked about browns on the colour wheel. They are very dull (desaturated, I think) oranges and yellows. And now you know.
  16. So I am getting back into painting miniatures after a long, long hiatus. In preparation for this I have been going through my paints and seeing what, if any, are still good. I used Games Workshop paints almost exclusively back then and really loved the quality, price and ease of clean up. These are all from the early to mid 90s and still seem in good shape. My question is - how does Reaper Paints compare? I'm getting the Kickstarter Bones miniatures sets and saw they have some good deals on 24 paints of what look to be pretty useful colours. I just want to know if any of the 'old timers' here have any experience with the 'classic' GW paints and the newer Reaper ones. Are the Reaper ones as good? Better? A lot better? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help a guy out!
  17. Evil Savage

    Painted Product Pics

    I've noticed recently that all the new figures are given a paint job. While I understand that it's more eye catching, and it may be inspiring, but I find it kind of limiting. I personally would prefer an unpainted picture when ordering models. I've actually painted over the raw pictures in photoshop to plan out my color scheme. It's been bugging me for a while, but I really caught my attention with the release of the pictures of the Red Petals Su model for Deadlands. Unless you're a long time deadlands fan like me you might not catch it, but Su is Chinese, and the picture for the model makes her a blonde. Basically, I think the paint jobs are beautiful, but I'd really like to still have the an example of the raw unfinished model that i'm going to actually get.
  18. So. I used to be a mini painter back when I was a kid. I have been playing tabletop rpgs steadily for over 30 years, but haven't done minis for the last 20. I did, however, get my art degree and became a pro artist in the meanwhile, so I know some technae. However, my understanding of mini painting is stuck at kid level, when I used acrylics but did not speak with anyone else or know the terminology or (to be honest) paint very well. Now I'm working as a beginner again, here to learn, but since I also have an art background I find myself wondering about certain aspects of mini painting. For example, why is dry brushing considered a quick and dirty method of highlighting? I understand it as a way to do some very subtle blending (on the macro scale, anyway). What would be the more careful version of painting that it is a substitute for? I also have questions about how people understand the terminology. For example, I've noticed regular use of the term "glaze," which seems to be understood as a wash of a darker color over a lighter one to increase its intensity or, especially in the case of minis, to bring out its texture. Mini painting seems to use only the wet sense of "glaze" (but then, to be fair, so do most fine artists). But "glaze" can also be used to mean dry brushing with a transparent darker color over a lighter one, which can generate some very interesting effects. I have not seen use of the counterpart to "glaze," which is "scumble." "Scumbling" is the same as "glazing," but using a lighter, semi-opaque color over a darker one. It's very good for pearly, moonlit effects and fog and atmospherics. Do people use this technique? And if so, what do they call it? I'm sure I'll think of other questions as I go along, but that's it for starters.
  19. Dr.Bedlam

    Basic Dirt

    So I'm scrolling along the paints selection, and I run across one I had never noticed before. I very much like the idea that Reaper produces a paint called "Basic Dirt." Did you guys send Bryan or Anne out to verify it?
  20. Just thought I'd post a home-made paint mixer I fabbed up. I did a commission recently that required a lot of shades of paint. Even though RMS paints are easy to shake, some of mine are getting long in the tooth (thickening) and shaking them was becoming tiresome... I was going to buy some kind of scientific lab shaker on ebay, but even the used, crappy ones were going for $40 and might come with an unexpected gift of anthrax or something... And I had a deadline to meet so shipping wasn't an option. So I made my own paint shaker out of parts I had lying around. I did some surfing and found other painters' ideas I combined into a working unit. I've made one before, but it was a cheesy thing with a weighted CD-ROM motor attached to a film canister, suspended by an o-ring. I wanted something more effective, easier to use, and able to hold multiple paints at once. I ran across someone who attached a motor to a plastic tray and hung it from rubber bands. It worked nice, but clattered the heck out of the paints in the tray. However, it gave me an idea - I figured the scientific shakers had some kind of rubber isolator to keep the shaker from transferring vibrations to the table. So here's what I came up with: All told this cost me $0, since I had all the parts on hand. But, it should cost under $20 to make depending on what parts you can scrounge or buy. WARNING - I provide this article as an example for entertainment purposes only, and take NO responsibility for anyone attempting to build a similar device. DO NOT attempt to do this unless you have a basic knowledge of mechanics or electronics. NO ONE under the age of 18 should attempt to build this. Parts list: 12v computer fan (80mm or larger and at least 200mA for max. vibration) plug-in 12v DC transformer - should match the mA rating of the fan. (I used a 14v @ 100mA, though, which worked fine - higher voltages can lessen motor life though...) protective screen or mesh for fan (don't use the chrome ones with big openings- you'll see why in the description) plastic tray ($1 for 2 @ drugstore) rubber non-slip shelf liner rubber weather-stripping insulation assorted screws 4 hollow rubber feet - sourced from a DVD player, but can be found in electronic supply houses wire crimp connectors wire cutting/crimping tool on-off switch (optional) - I didn't have one handy, so I just plug it in lead foil or similar flat weight super glue or E6000 double-sided tape rubber cement As you can see the tray was just screwed to the top part of the fan's screen with some small electronics screws. I drilled pilot holes with my pin-vise and screwed it down. I stuck the non-slip sheeting on the tray with double-sided tape. The weather-stripping foam is self-adhesive - I used enough thickness to be able to hold a bottle firmly on its side. This guarantees maximum shaking of the paint: I then prepped the fan by gluing pieces of lead foil on one blade with super glue. (The white residue is from zip-kicker.) Flat, thin pieces of lead worked best. I could shape them to the fan blade profile before gluing. I tried a flattened fishing weight first and it flew off as soon as I fired up the fan (you DID read my warning right?!?) Tiny sticker of Iron Man can be added to fan blade later if desired. A few pieces were enough to off-balance the fan so it shook when it turned - like a cell phone vibrator, but much stronger. (I used maybe a 1/4 oz worth of lead.) Next I screwed down the fan to the tray and attached the bottom screen. The screen is crucial so if lead does fly off the fan blade later it won't shoot across the room... However – the weighted side of the fan blade is pointing at the bottom of the tray, so chances are it won’t fly anywhere dangerous but into the bottom. You can add metal mesh if you feel totally paranoid but after several weeks of using this gizmo I've had no mishaps. I glued the rubber feet to the bottom screen with rubber cement. You can see here the hollow rubber will isolate the mixer from the surface it's on. Finally I cut the leads from the fan and crimped them onto the transformer's wires. (The blue wire shown in the fan close up wasn't "live" - I assume it's for speed control or something I didn't need, so I snipped it off.) Caveats – I don’t know how long the fan will last, since it wasn’t designed to spin unbalanced and push air against a solid plastic surface. Eventually the bearing will go, but it’s easy enough to get a new fan. The transformer doesn’t get hot after 5 minutes’ straight shaking so I assume I’ll never have to replace that… So how's it work? It doesn't vibrate my workbench - all the shaking goes into the paints. The tray slides over maybe a 1/2 inch when it first spins up, but then settles into a groove and won't move again. See the video for a sound level - it's much quieter than a computer fan when it's at max cooling. Quiet enough to be of no disturbance at night (my studio is next to my daughter's bedroom.) Here are some examples of paints I shook. The Vallejo red hasn’t been used for 5 years (I’m not lying! - ever since I switched to RMS paints.) 2 minutes shaking and it pours almost like new! The RMS paints were thinned perfectly in 1 minute or less, though some bottles thicken up with time (even a mixer won't fix that!) so a little distilled water may help with older bottles. As you see, the tray can hold up to 6 paints side by side, but I wouldn't add more than that or the rubber feet might compress too much from the weight. And it does a decent job of rolling dice too - though probably not fast enough for most gamers... Not bad for 30 minutes' work! ;)
  21. redfox4242

    Paint Question

    I just bought a half dozen miniatures from Reaper and I was excited to discover that a free dropper bottle of paint had been included with my order. That was a cool bonus. I have been examining the bottle and I used the paint on one of my models. I like it and it's great stuff. I cannot figure out what color I have been given. There was no color name on the label. My best guess is that this is Muddy Brown 09028. I got that notion from browsing the Reaper site and looking at color swatches. I was wondering if any knowledgeable person on these message boards could tell me with certainty what color I have here. Thanks very much. Here is a picture of my bottle of paint:
  22. I'm so excited to share this news: Game Empire Painting Tournament March 25, 2012, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 7051 Clairemont Mesa Blvd, #306 San Diego, CA 92117 858-576-1525 Cost: FREE!!!!! Prize pool includes store credit, brushes from Army Painter, cool stuff from Games Workshop, Reaper minis, and more! Basic supplies, minis, basing materials, and drinks will be free to participants. Da Roolz: Minis from any company, current or defunct, are acceptable. Mini must be primed and assembled when registered. (This rule can be bent, but will waste your precious painting time.) Primed and assembled minis will be made available in the “up to 28 mm categories”, while supplies last. Pre-painted minis not accepted for this tournament. Please register with a monitor before beginning to apply color. We will number the bottom of your mini. Use your stuff, use stuff from the supplies. It’s all good. Seasoned pros are likely to have their own supplies and should leave the communal supplies for the amateurs. We’re not sticklers, it’s just good manners. Don’t be a jerk. If you’re nasty to the other competitors, you may be asked to leave. Even young’uns are expected to have good manners. Basing: (That means adding cool stuff, like rocks and sticks to the floor of your mini.) This isn’t necessary, but highly encouraged. And it sure makes your mini look awesome… Due to their overwhelming awesomeness, Game Empire employees are not allowed to enter this contest. Too bad you rock. Categories: Young Bloods: up to and including age 14—must have ID or a guardian to verify age. No professionals. Prizes awarded to first, second, and third places. (all sizes) Pro: If you have ever been paid to paint minis, this is your category. Two size categories: a.) up to 28mm, and b.) over 28mm. Yes, Virginia, there are professionals under age 15. Get over it. They might just kick your hiney. Amateur: No professionals. Two size categories: a.) up to 28mm, and b.) over 28mm. (If you have ever been paid to paint minis, enter in the pro category. We expect you to be honest about this.) People’s Choice: All entries from other categories may be submitted. Anyone may enter. This is a special award judged by the public. Schedule Registration is all day, beginning at 10 a.m. Please register all minis and hang on to the claim ticket we give you! 4:45 p.m. All entries must be completed and ready for judging. 5 p.m. Judging begins. You need not be present to win… but your mini does! Minis will then be placed in our chess case for People’s Choice Award. This will be voted on by the public (one vote per person—duh!) over the next week (March 25-31) and tallied April 2. Winners will be announced April 2. (Yes, you can vote for your own mini. Yes, kids can vote too—it ain’t the presidency.) Our fabulous Judges: 2012 Broadside Bash Award-winning Allan Pyle Golden Demon award-winner Bob Felix. (Subject to availability, but it looks good!) Judges’ decisions are final. These guys are pros and know what they’re looking for. The judges reserve the right to move an entry into a different category if they deem it appropriate. COA Clause: Once in our care, we will take special care of your minis, but we can accept no responsibility for loss or damage to individual entries. Models are entered into the competition at the artist’s own risk. If they come alive and fly around the store, we’ll talk later. Rules lawyers should talk to Desiree about rule changes BEFORE the tournament. Suggestions about future tournaments will be given consideration. This is Desiree’s first shot at it, so give her a break. If this topic should be moved to a different forum, no prob. This was my best guess!
  23. mcoyfrog

    USER PAINTED MINI'S

    Hey all.. I'm new to the site and new to pathfinders, I used to play DnD many years ago (man I'm getting old) Anyway I'm wondering, as I look thru all the mini's I want to buy I notice that there are a few that have options that show user painted mini's. The ones that have these extra pics are painted by some extremly talented painters. What I'm wondering is if we as reaper mini consumers could upload our own painted pieces of the mini and have it show up next to the ones that don't have any extra pics next to it, or have some kind of rotating images that show everyones art of that specific mini, of course if its from me it won't be the greatest but it would be kind of cool to see what others have painted on the same piece as you. I know about the show it off forum and love all the work there (such amazing talent here) but it would be really cool to see what others are doing with the specific mini you have sitting at your gaming table at home. Well, thanks for reading and maybe this idea already exists, if so let me know how/where to go. I look forward to meeting everyone here in the forums as the future becomes the present. Have a great day... Doug
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