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  1. I'm looking at picking up some tube paints for basic colors to start trying and wanted to just get five basic colors. What would be the best colors to pick up? Also, was thinking of going with Liquitex, but have never tried these kinds of paints before, so if anyone has any ideas on brands to suggest, I'm listening. Cadmium Yellow (Deep) Titanium White Burnt Umber Cerulean Blue Alizarin Crimson or Cadmium Red (Deep) Possibly also Mars Black Was also looking at the Iridescent Effects to add. I plan on using these to paint my larger models (lots of dragons). Also, is there a different primer I should consider as well?
  2. With tax returns coming soon, I'm looking to invest in some more tools to facilitate cranking out better minis! I'll first lay out what I have so far, followed by what I'm looking to get, and I'd like tips on those things and any I may have missed. For those that would like to participate, please share your opinions based on your own experience and please be specific with brands/models and your experience! "I have a Donegan OptiVisor 3.5x at 4" and it helps me see finer detail on 25mm heroic minis" is loads more helpful than "You should get a magnification source". I've come to greatly trust and value the opinions of the fine folks of this board and would love advice based on your experience! I understand much of this can be found by digging through the forums, so I understand those who don't wish to participate, but believe that besides myself, others could benefit from a consolidated thread for upgrades, especially with tax return season upon us! Current supplies: A handful of vallejo paints, matt medium, matt and gloss varnish Daler Rowney FW Inks in Black and Yellow Ocher Citadel Layer, Base and Large Drybrush brushes Princeton Select Round Blender 6 W&N Series 7 size 2 and 00 Sta-Wet Wet Palette Master Brush Cleaner and Restorer Hobby Knife Desired supplies: Ottlites (probably 2) Magnification of some sort. Either a visor or the ottlite with magnifier. A large container of Liquitex Matte Medium for mixing homemade washes More inks! Flow improver (primarily for washes, but also to further experiment with wet blending) A pin vise Basing materials (have bases, need terrain stuff!) Green stuff (and liquid GS) Lots of Reaper paints! Interference paint I'm willing to allocate a fairly sizable portion of my return to the hobby, but inexpensive options are obviously desired as it will allow me to get moar stuff! Thanks in advance for any help! edit: struck through acquired materials
  3. I didn't realize until I saw the post from March 2nd about the new minis that some of your minis are actually made with metal material. Prior to knowing this I had ordered some minis and some paints. The one half orc sorcerer mini (the one with the cool armor and holding his staff with both hands), Dorly, the Halfling with the musket. And a shadowguard mini. Noticing their prices were a little bit more expensive than the normal reaper bones minis, I assumed that these pieces were a better quality plastic, but are they actually made of metal? Like how the new Lich piece is from March 2nd and so forth. If so, would i need to get primer in order to paint them, and what primer would people recommend? March 7th, not second. Good job, me.
  4. Upon priming and placing my Bones Great Worm on a temporary working base I came to notice something that didn't fully occur to me beforehand. My normal working base choice is the lid to a dip can; awful habit, I know, but the tins make great rinse reservoirs and the lids are great for basing and a crude dry palette... I digress. Anyway, I ended up mounting the worm on a beverage bottle, which placed on my desk, and me seated in front of said desk, brought Mr. Worm to about eye level. I noticed that his model casts a pretty serious shadow on a fair portion of the front of his body, something I knew, but didn't really notice to what degree until I was looking at him eye-to-maw. So! My question is, for models that cast their own shadow, how do you approach shading that area? I can think of two basic approaches here. Either A: I ignore the fact that he's creating his own shade, and treat the entire underside uniformly, or B: I can move him and the light around until I get something I like, mentally bookmark it or even outline it, and actively paint-shade that area, so that no matter what light this guy is viewed in or from what angle, he'll appear to be casting shade on himself. Or of course, C: somewhere in between. TL;DR, would you shade areas 1 and 2 in this picture the same or differently?
  5. Hello my fellow meatbags! I’ve heard complaints of working with yellows and reds as being the most difficult paints. But for me it’s always been painting white. After a quick rummage through the forums I couldn't find anything specifically dedicated to this topic: Working with white paint, how to highlight and shade and getting a good range of values. So I have been working on a project and it has been driving me crazy. I've stripped and repainted it several times already but never to my satisfaction. I would very like much to paint the miniature if a lovely white dress, but I can never really make the white highlights really pop. And then the shadows on white clothing always look a little off. I prime in white to make the entire thing easier, but it still feels like I need to apply thirty or more coats of white paint to really get it to really pop. Then if I have a mishap with shading it’s another thirty layers to get the pop back and then it’s a bath in solvent because it’s just not working. *Shakes fist in angry frustration* I’ve even got some Citadel white base and it feels like I need too many layers to really make things feel brilliant, like a color bomb, but in white. The easy answer, in theory, is to add more contrast, so the white on white highlights seem more brilliant. But in practice? I guess that’s what I’m looking for advice on. How do you make your white on white look good? Throw in a little bone white for shadow? How do you get your white clothing to really stand out? How do you do it without doing a bunch of layers?
  6. What's the difference between these triads / paints? Shadowed Steel / Honed Steel / Polished Silver Blackened Steel / Tarnished Steel / True Silver Skunkworks Gunmetal / Durasheet Alloy / ? Also, what are the colored metallics (at least I think they're metallics?) like? Colored basecoat, colored highlight (off the mica flecks)? Colored basecoat, white highlight? Clear-ish basecoat, colored highlight like interference colors? Some examples would be great. Thanks in advance!
  7. So what do you all use for thinning your paint? I am using reaper paints and have been told by some of you all that I need to thin out my paints. I have tried adding water(distilled) but the pigment doesn't seem to stick together. I have been doing a 50/50 mix. Is this the ratio? Do I need flow Aid? Or acrylic matte medium? Or Slow-dri? If so what formula do you use? I know it's a lot of questions sorry just looking to get better at my painting.Thank you all in advance for all the help I know you all will give me. :)
  8. Hello, My recent holiday order came with an advertisement for a new paint series, the MSP bones line of paints. Is this just a new line of colors, or a specialized paint for just bones? Does this work as well for metal miniatures? Thanks
  9. Hi All, When i do a wash, a drybrush or deluted white paint, (I tried a few different brands, Tamiya, Vallejo(all ranges) and Citadel) I find my whites to leave a somewhat grainy texture.. When airbrushing I find my tamiya to be the one who gives me the best and cleanest result, but I am still not truly happy with it. I use low pressure, a fresh clean gun and apply many thin layers to get the best results, but still not to my desired satisfaction. I know most white paints have less or larger piqments in them then lets say a red paint, but was wondering if there is a paint that has less of that grainy feel/texture to it. Which White do you all prefer for brush work and which one for airbrushing?
  10. A Bones Orc Berserker. I'm trying to learn to paint shading on skin, primarily, although I decided to do this orc in green with the olive greens triad. I also decided to try a rust effect for the armor (inspired by somebody's verdegris post). I started with a Ruddy Brown base, heavy drybrushed steel over it, and then dabbed bits of the lava triad oranges on it with my most goofed up drybrush brush. I should make my players save against tetanus with this guy. I see from the zoomed up image that I seemed to have left some gaps in his armpits which is really frustrating, and I'm starting to get bummed out about my lack of basing ability...
  11. I know I mentioned wanting to do this in a post somewhere a while back. However, the time has come to do it. I work in a lab at the local hospital and we use these test tube mixers for various intricate lab reasons. Anyway, I've been eyeing them since I started working here. Naturally I wanted them to mix paints at home. Luckily I also have an awesome boss who agreed to let me have them when we exchanged them. Which was yesterday. Behold! It works great! So if you work in a lab.. :P Edit: and before you guys point it out. Of course I completely disassembled and sterilized it before putting it on my kitchen table. It's probably a lot less hazardous than my two cats at this point.
  12. So I've been noticing and it's kind of obnoxious that every so often I'm finding really small hairs, maybe a millimeter or five while I'm painting pushing around paint lately. Has anybody else ever had this issue? I sometimes wonder if it's the paintbrushes I use, currently Rosemary and Co. I don't remember this happening much when I was using the Winsor and Newton series 7 brushes....
  13. New rthread for a new month. I'm still determined to clear my painting queue this year and doing these WIP and getting C&C from everyone really motivates me to keep pushing through. So on to the fun. I was stuck for a few days deciding what to start with so I grabbed a few bones from my collection to get my gears going. First up is Goldar. I had started this guy a while ago in metal but lost motivation after his axe snapped and I had a difficult time keeping it reattached. But I've always been fond of the figure and thought it had a lot of character. I did take some WIP pics but they were super blurry since I'm still taking photos with my iPhone, so here is where he stands now. The next figure is from bones 2 heroes and villains option i think, the female spartan. Started with the reds this time since I tend to have issues blending it the way I like consistently. I think I'll be painting the armor silver with some antique gold highlights and I'm not sure about the stone yet. Maybe an earth tone? As always C&C welcomed and appreciated.
  14. I've been looking at various paint racks and their costs. After looking around a bit I decided to try my hand at making one. I'm intentionally trying to do this without power tools to make it as easy as possible for people with limited resources. Tools: 2" C clamp Ruler Razor Knife Coping saw Hammer Components: Wood Glue 2 boards 1/4" x 2" x 48" (actual 1/4" x 1.5" x 48") for outer box 1 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 96 in. Pine Moulding 8 fet 1/4 x 1 1/8 Pine Lattice Moulding 1 sheet 1/4'' x 12'' x 24'' Aircraft grade birch craft plywood Brad Nails Cost (excluding nails and glue) $15 I started off by cutting the outer frame pieces, and gluing and clamping them to the plywood sheet: Then I cut 2 pieces of the pine lattice moulding to the proper height for my shelves (3 1/4" for Reaper dropper bottles) and the shelves. I put glue on the three edges of the shelf that match up with the plywod and frame. I use the 2 height pieces and place the shelf, clamping the ends in place. As you can see with the first shelf, you'll get 11 bottles per shelf. I'm expecting to get about 66 or 77 bottles on a rack Next up: finishing the shelves, adding the front moulding to keep the paints on the shelves
  15. At the risk of sounding unforgivably lazy: Does there exist any sort of "mechanical helper" for thoroughly shaking up dropper bottles of paint? I have split shot in my bottles, but I'm talking about something like that vibration thing they have at the home improvement stores for quickly agitating gallons of housepaint. When I'm sitting there shake-shake-shaking for a minute or more, I can't help but think how nice it would be if there were some sort of device I could tuck 4 or 5 bottles at a time into and get them all nicely agitated at one go. Am I dreaming the impossible dream?
  16. So Doc had mentioned (I think in "Minis we'd like to see") about how he'd like to have a purple paint for his hat. It made me think if I had a paint, what color would it be? Feel free to list your choice or other Forumites. I'll try to keep this post updated with the suggestions. Oh and Anne feel free to run with these Buglips Stanky Sock (White/Yellow) Ludo Bowler black Ludo Fur Brown Friendly Rock (grey) MissMelons MissMelons's Melons (Green) You were expecting a different color? Mischievous Purple NomadZeke Sith Saber (Red) OneBoot Ninja Kitty (pinkish purple) ReaperBryan Byranzilla (Green) The Hat ​SamuraiJack Bushido Black Ronin Red Katana Silver ShadowRaven Raven Shadow (Dark Blue) Ub3r_n3rd Barbarian Rage (Red flesh wash) Ub3r Blu3
  17. Now, while looking through various miniature manufacturers for strange and interesting minis that caught my fancy, I ran across "Crocodile Games" which made a series of miniatures for their own Egyptian mythos themed game. Going though their line up I noticed one or two strange minis in their "Sebeki" line of heros. These croc dudes are also the same dudes that is in their logo, and thus their mascot. In which I ran across the "Crocogamer", a special edition mini. Being a bit of a pudgy nerd myself, I couldn't help but buy this guy and basically paint him up as a caricature of myself of sorts, a fun prod at my geekyness. Not to mention he looks like he just got back from a con, so I kind of wanted this as my consolation prize for not making Reaper Con. He didn't have an integrated base so this was one of the first bases I've made, mostly using Milliput and one of the Reaper bases I got from the Bones II kickstarter. And thankfully it doesn't look entirely out of place. I worked hard on him, and I'm proud, I even added a tiny bit of glue to the cup to make it liquidy. Anyway, I worked hard on him and am waiting for a non rainy day to give him a nice dull coat to protect that hard worked over paint. Tell me what you think, don't be shy, I know I've got a long way to go :D
  18. Got this cute little fellow in the mail the other day. Never painted anything this big, and wanted to show my progress and experiences. First I glued him together. Was really surprised about the fact that it wasn't actually necessary to use glue, yet I did it just in case. Then applied some green stuff in the cracks. The black stain on the base is me testing the rumor about washes not sticking to bones. And that was true. Luckily the rumor about mixing dish soap in the paint, to fix it, was also true. Never painted with dish soap before, so that was.. interesting. So then I covered him in a basecoat of gloss varnish, before I painted white over the green stuff, and gave him a nice wash of dark, purple ink. Once that was almost dry, I started adding a dark blue wash: Painted in the flesh, bones and eye. Also applied a drybrush of dark blue: One more drybrush and pondering on how to continue the wings: Edit: This capable young lady will be the rider:
  19. Hello everybody! I made a little paint shaker-mixer, of which I am quite proud of. Very simple, very silent, and not terribly efficient but it helps. It is a nice addition to my painting desk. In the video you can see it in action, along with an explanation of how it was made. Hope you like it!
  20. Hello all, I have been model making for a long time. I just ran into an issue with the bones line of minis. I cleaned as much of the flash I could get off of the minis, then I used a hobby specific super glue to attach a base to the minis. Then I primed the minis and base with a spray enamel primer. Then I used a combination of Reaper, Vallejo and craft (Delta, Amercana and such) acrylic paints on the minis. No problem so far. I gave them a general wash of dark burnt umber and then dry brushed them, these are acrylic products as well. I then added a mixture of flocking and static grass on the base. I applied two coats of dull coat and called it good. A week later we got out the minis for the first time to use in a Savage world campaign and they were fine. Two weeks later we played the same campaign but when we got out the minis from the foam carrying case I noticed the minis were a little gloomy and slightly sticky. I'm thinking something leached through the paint to the surface. Has this happened to anyone? If so any ideas how to fix it?
  21. Alright, this is less showing off and more about getting critiques about my more recent "ambitious but rubbish" project. I had three goals in mind when doing this one, make him look the part of a nasty angler fish with appropriate coloration, paint corrosion on the copper/brass armor, and attempt to make it look like his lure was glowing with an osl effect. The latter two things I haven't done before and from the looks of this current effort I still need some practice.
  22. I usually use Reaper and Vallejo paints. However, I'm curious about a couple of the citadel technical and dry paints, specially the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust to create rust and corrosion effects. Any thoughts on how to achieve similar results with Reaper or Vallejo?
  23. Hello everybody! I'm looking to paint one of my dragons in a metallic brown color. So I'm trying to figure out which of Reaper's metal paints are the most brownish. It looks like 9049 Ancient Bronze, 9125 Scorched Metal, or 61132 Drillbit Metal might be what I'm looking for? Normally I'd go to my FLGS to compare colors side by side. The sample pics on the site don't always capture the color though. For example my Old Bronze looks quite a bit different the what I'd expect from the online picture. Unfortunately the store here doesn't carry all the Reaper colors. So does anybody happen to know which of the metallic paints would be the most brownish (least orangish) in color?
  24. I always hear "thin your paint". What do you use to thin your paints and where can i get some? I've been using water, but that's not the greatest. For instance, I was painting some armor with Honed steel. Honed steel will get really thick quick, so I added a little water. It became way to watery and bubbly. But more importantly I need something to wet blend better. I only recently learned that the way to wet blend well is to thin your paints and do lots and lots of coats. Water doesn't work so well for that.
  25. As i wrote in another post here, I used "stainless steel" ball bearings as agitators in most of my paints after transferring them to drop bottles last year. And a couple of weeks ago, I discovered ball-shaped rust-brown discolorations through the bottoms of some of the paint bottles. Not so stainless after all. argh! So I spent a couple of hours last night fishing the offending balls out of the paints with the metal bit on an old brush and a magnet. messy affair as you might imagine. However, I got a few surprises. 1. Some of the balls had...grown, Big cancerous lumps were present on them, and were flat where they had lain on the bottom or sides of the bottle they had been in. seems the paint had not only rusted the balls, but reacted and made some sort of hardish "growths". 2. Some of the balls were stuck. they would not come out even when prodded vigourously with a pointy stick. actually broke my stick without dislodging one of them. "Dug in like an Alabama tick" to quote Ventura. 3. The rusted balls had gone blackish and pitted beneath the gunk and paint. not rust coloured at all. the rust colour could only be seen through the bottle itself, and did not seem to affect the colour of the paint. (probably not enough of it to matter.) 4. and strangest of all: paint from the Army painter, vallejo, citadel (several different older types), gamecraft, coat d'arms, -all had rusted balls. but not Reaper. NONE of the balls in my Reaper Paints had corroded. at all. Nice and shiny as the day they were put in. this i find really strange, as the different makes including reaper do seem to have more or less the same smell, and mix with no problems, Which leds me to belive they were similar chemically. Might anybody know why this is? yes, I know I should have thought of taking some pictures, but my fingers were covered in paint. (they still are in places. some of that simply won't scrub off.) and anyway, here is a shiny ball, there is a black ball, here is a paintcoverd lump of mini stalagmites. not too exiting really. So now, I hope that the hematite beads i dropped in the paint instead actually are hematite and not rip-offs like the so-called "stainless steel" balls were.
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