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Found 44 results

  1. Hello! This is my first post, and I am a complete noob at painting and miniatures. My friends have finally got me started on Pathfinder after trying for awhile, and I decided I needed to paint my own figure. It's kind of snowballing and I'm getting into other stuff. Anyway, I wanted to try painting a building, and I love new technology. So I decided to try a 3D printed building to help bring more flavor to the game. I started with a test build from the company Via Ludibunda, and wasn't impressed with the scale or the paintability from the hub I chose. I now have the Winterdale 2 Tavern from printablescenery.com. Their photo they use to sell it is thus: It looks nice. But obviously it was done with a more realistic bent to work with WWII wargaming. I tend to focus more on the fantasy aspect, and have decided to go in the style of Final Fantasy IX buildings. Like this: I got the model yesterday from Emeraldcitymaker.com(An on demand 3D printing company), and it turns out I'm missing a piece. The straw roof over the stable wasn't included with the packet I bought from printablescenery and am waiting for them to send it. In the meantime, I started with planning out the inside. This is the model put together with my Anirion figure. The yellow building on the right is the demo building I printed and painted from Via Ludibunda. I learned a lot doing it. PLA plastic soaks up paint like nobodys business. I had to do almost 5 coats of yellow to make the yellow stick. You absolutely do not want to put a light coating over a dark one, or you'll be painting for DAYS. Also, the size of the model is probably 25mm instead of 28mm, which means the figures look too large in it. The inside of the Tavern is the right size for the accessories I bought. So I figured I could go ahead and paint it and bring it to one of my friends' pathfinder nights later in the next couple weeks. ...Which brings us to the current state. I love the red shingles, but I'm afraid to add a wash now because I don't want to darken the bright red color. I dislike the work I did on the flagstone bottom. I followed that excellent flagstone styrofoam guide on this site, but the principals of PLA 3D print worked against me. Because a 3D printed object is done in layers, those layers are present on the model. Whenever you do a wash, the wash goes inbetween the layers and sticks out. This model is printed in such a way to minimize the effect, but when I tried to wash the stones they just soaked it up and made the ridges more visible. Hints and tricks are greatly appreciated. I was hoping someone could help me "fix" the stones to make them a little less "standoutish." I was thinking of just doing a black wash with MSP black to tone down the brighter colors a bit, but am worried about the ridges showing up again. I have been kind of hurrying with it too because I wanted to get it game ready in case they decided to do game night soon. Any other general tips would be appreciated too.
  2. This week, I've been working on some of my CAV vehicles from the Kickstarter, and I was thinking about a box of leftover Mechwarrior clicky base stuff I had, and the idea came to me to make a destroyed mech or two to use as scenery on the tabletop. I wanted it to look like it had sat on a long-forgotten battlefield for decades or centuries. I began by slicing the mech from its clicky base, and then I used a pair of pliers to rip the arms and head off. I then used a drill to make a big hole in the torso to look like where a missile had hit, knocking out the mech. I also used the drill to enlarge some of the holes where the arms and head had been connected. I used my hobby knife to pry open the cockpit, and then cut down a 10mm Warmaster skeleton figure and glued it into the cockpit to represent the mech's long-deceased pilot. Next, I cut some small sections of thin wire and glued them in the holes with superglue to look like cables that had been ripped apart when the mech was destroyed. I glued the parts with hot glue to a 3-inch plastic base that I had beveled the edge of with a hobby knife; and then covered the base with Tacky glue and applied a coating of sand. I sprayed it flat black, and then painted it with a series of browns and oranges to give it a rusted look. I painted the ground cover and added some static grass to finish it off. And here's the finished piece, shown with some 10mm Dropzone Commander infantry and a tank for scale. For the full build write-up and more photos, please see my blog: One More Gaming Project
  3. Dai-Mongar

    77138: Treasure Pile and 77250: Bags

    Not much to show off, but I have some completed scenery bits to use as treasure tokens in Frostgrave. A chest surrounded by treasure: And some sacks! Are they filled with gold? Potions? Magic scrolls? Brewer's yeast? Delicious potatoes? Only one way to find out!
  4. So, I have shots of this in my Silverhex scenery thread, but it's kind of become its own beast. I've never worked with foam board before, but loved what I was seeing done on this forum and figured I could try my hand at it. In the first encounter of the Silverhex Chronicles, there are two mausoleums (in addition to graves and such). I figured those could be my first two foam board efforts. At this point, I have the first mausoleum put together and am now working on painting and then a roof. Figured I'd include some of the WIP shots that got me to this point. For the second, I have the walls cut out and the piece I'll be using to make a dome. I'll be showing those later once I actually have something worth showing. Hope you enjoy my first foray into foam! Comments, critiques, and compliments are always welcome :=)
  5. This will (hopefully) be used as the beginning of a terrain collection that I'm going to be working on for skirmish games, such as Frostgrave. I made it from a 10/15mm watchtower that I've had around for ages. I'm sorry, but I don't remember who made it. I filed the top flat to serve as a base for the statue which is an old Mage Knight piece, which is itself a copy of an even older Ral Partha figure. The paint/quality of the figure itself wasn't worth trying to save, but it was decent enough to make a statue, so here it is.
  6. One of my Friendly Local Game Stores, which has largely dumped its stock of miniatures gaming supplies (awww!) still carries various products that have a "reason-to-exist" in that they're tied in with BOARD GAMES. That the board games in questions happen to utilize MINIATURES to work their magic is just an added bonus. I really know nothing about Mantic's "Dungeon Saga" game, except that there are dungeon tiles involved, and apparently, after the fashion of the old Milton Bradley / Games Workshop "HeroQuest" game, there are some furnishings here and there. So, with two packs of doors and two packs of dungeon furniture, I've decided to try painting them up a bit to help out our current GM as generalized props that might or might not be useful for his dungeon. \ The doors pack seemed like the best place to start, since it would be the most generally useful. The pieces come in a hard plastic (not the least bit Bones-like), in a deep brown color. As-is, or with some light dry-brushing, they'd probably look decent on the table, but I opted for spray-painting the pieces white, then painting the edges "denim blue" (a faintly bluish grey), with some light brown for the door faces, and then I applied a light wash of darker brown to the middle, and some lighter grey dry-brushing to the frames. There's a lot of detail and touch-up yet to be done, but the 3D details do most of the work, so the pieces already look pretty decent with minimal work. The pieces come in a clamshell-opening plastic case reminiscent of an old VHS video cassette case. There are two each of 5 designs, for a total of 10 doors: 8 1"-wide doors (about 1.5" tall) and 2 2"-wide double doors (about 2.5" tall). They have just wide enough of a base that they stand effortlessly on a hard surface, but they're lightweight enough that they might wobble or topple of anyone bangs the table, or if they're set on too irregular of a surface. The pieces have a very tooled and precise look about them, making me certain that the originals were designed in some sort of CAD software rather than sculpted. Each plank is clearly denoted, but there are no organic details such as wood grain in the planks or cracks in the stones. With some light washing and dry-brushing, however, enough random elements are introduced that the "machined" look doesn't stand out much (in my opinion). The raised details on the doors have nice, sharp edges, but they're also very shallow. This makes it a bit of a challenge to paint the filigrees and hardware on the doors without splashing paint on the adjoining planks; a bit of back-and-forth touch-up work is probably inevitable. I still have some work to do in finishing up the detail work and cleaning up the splashes. I'm undecided as to whether or not I might try to darken the "grey stone" areas with some sort of wash. The doors have a nice, solid feel to them, and seem to be reasonably durable for their size. They can be stowed together in the box without much fear of the paint "dinging" off -- but I think I'm likely to put some foam inserts in the plastic box all the same, just in case. ... The furniture box (pictures to follow later) comes in a similar container, but consists of several "furniture" pieces after the fashion of the old HeroQuest. There are 4 treasure chests (separate lid and body pieces, two slightly different designs), 2 barrels, 1 bookshelf, 1 bookcase, 1 throne, 1 well, 1 weapons rack, 1 small tomb, 2 wooden tables, and a lectern. (The box and online details of the set seem to indicate that there's supposed to be an open book piece that goes with the lectern, but I didn't find one in either box, so I'm a bit concerned about that. I can probably proxy something from one of my Warhammer Fantasy Flagellant sprues.) Somehow I didn't notice it until after I'd sprayed on the first side of base coat, but the plastic of the furniture pieces, while the same dark brown, is NOT the same texture as with the doors. The furniture pieces are very slightly bendy (less bendy than regular Bones, but less rigid than the Dungeon Saga doors for certain) -- and as such, when I sprayed on base coat, they all felt noticeably tacky even after the paint had apparently dried. Fortunately for me, procrastination-out-of-frustration paid off. I let the pieces sit for another day in the garage, and when I checked on them again, the paint seemed to have dried, and the tackiness largely has gone away. Still, I feel as if there's at least a little tackiness still, so I'm certain that when it comes time to matte-seal everything at the end, I'll be using brush-on matte sealer, NOT the spray on variety. Right now, all the furniture pieces are just grey-and-brown, like the doors so far, but I plan on putting a bit more work into painting in individual details (especially with pieces such as the bookshelf and bookcase).
  7. This year the minis I manage to paint will all count towards the resolutionary challenge. As per the resolutionary painting challenge guidelines, I will post them here, and link in my post in the challenge thread. Back to the interesting bits rediscovered when moving - here is a Dwarf Tower by Grendel Productions I bought sometime in the 90s. They made lots of cool scenery items and warbeasts in resin in a time where everything was metal or plastic. They also made the Fantasy game Leviathan. I believe most of their line is still available under the name "Scotia Grendel". This one I have had to do some repairs to to make it stand even, as the top was listing quite a bit. Still not perfect, but much better. I also have a suspicion that there is supposed to be a smallish piece that is missing here, to connect it to other castle-like bits in the same range. I might have it, but I need to look through the box. And that box is at the bottom of the stack after moving. Dwarf Tower Grendel Productions Resin
  8. Evilhalfling

    77248: 5? Crates (now with Both barrels)

    I have been feeling blocked by a diorama I want to turn out really good, so I have spent several days working layers onto the miniatures involved, or avoiding picking out color schemes for others. To heck with that. today I painted crates. brown liner, random shades of brown, drybrushed on and a few highlights added. (using ginger cookie, straight or mixed with the base color) I didn't worry about the fact that the crates were not square, or fill in places where the sprue was cut off. I just painted them. officially that's five figures painted, and I an update my sig. - I also painted an orc, but I think ill add some texture to his base. So not fully compleated. A good day to paint. November update: found the other barrel & made another crate
  9. Some table top paint jobs for the August paint challenge: Friar Stone in Bones (77206), I am happiest with him from this batch. Dragon from Familair Pack VIII (2969) painted up as a faerie dragon with treasure. I washed the treasure piles several times, but could not get definition between the coins for some reason. The metal Pillar of Good (2815), tried to go for faded paint effect it, somewhat successful I think.
  10. Chaoswolf

    Obelisk/Gravestone

    I don't know anything about this, other than that I rescued it from the melt table at this year's Reapercon. There's no marking on the bottom, so if anyone knows who made this feel free to let me know. C&C is always welcome.
  11. This year my husband got me some resin terrain from Itar's Workshop, including some sci-fi pieces. One of these is IWS-IND-003, "Engine" and one of them is IWS-IND-001, "Power Generator", but I can't recall which is which. Here they are with Reaper's Dee Dee, Astro Girl, for scale. Please pardon my ignorance. I don't know know if these are true-to-life or pure fantasy, so I decided to paint them how I liked. I didn't take pictures for the earliest stages. First I primed them with titanium white (Golden matte fluid acrylics) with a very little flow improver added. Typically I wash over this with burnt umber to bring out details before painting. But for these pieces I wanted elements to glow as if lit from within. I have found that lighting effects work better over a pure white base, so I added them before the umber wash. One of them is going to have a cold, green glow, like fluorescent lights. The other has a shaded violet glow from above. Both have a bit of warm gold light. The mixes are simple. The green was just a touch of phthalocyanine green with titanium white. The violet is the same with the addition of some quinacridone magenta. The yellow is simply yellow iron oxide with white. (Reaper colors = Clear Green (almost), Pure White, Clear Magenta (probably), Palomino Gold) Anything painted on white looks deeper than it is. These colors are pretty light, and to show how light, here's my half-painted Reaper frost giant next to one of the resin pieces. For the last preparation step I washed some burnt umber over the pieces, brushing only lightly over the lighted areas to leave the recesses brightly colored. I may have missed a cranny here or there which I will fix as I go along.
  12. To boost my painted count for the painting Challenge, I decided to to paint something quick, here is the results:
  13. Izzy_Knits

    Getting serious

    Oi everyone! My fiancé has given me the BESTEST (yes, bestest!) birthday gift EVER: over 30 miniatures which arrived just yesterday, along with a sample bottle of MSP paint (thank you Reaper packaging team)! :D I finally feel like I'm getting serious about this hobby. This, and I've watched easily over 5 hours of YouTube vids just about painting techniques... Let's be honest, I'm no professional, and I'm not using professional tools (except for my brushes). But this is fun! I'll be posting my work here, and if you have some tips especially for the scenery, I'll be glad to read it. I just bought a bit of stuff to glue to my bases so they don't look dull, and I'll take any advice I can! For the time being, here is a dire boar (#02527) I finished not too long ago. I did glue on some lichen-grass thingies on the base to try it. I'm pretty happy about the contrasts on this one, I finally managed to make a wash that looked good. Oh and sorry about the lighting, I don't have a lightbox or anything, so it's my cell phone and a light bulb doing the job. ;) I'll be posting pictures of my barbarian girl soon, just finished her two days ago! Feel free to give honest feedback! And for those of you interested, here's what I use for all my minis: - Rosemary & Co. brushes Series 33, sizes 2, 0 and 3/0 (along with old brushes for drybrushing) - Americana craft acrylic paints - Delta Creative gloss & matte varnish - Krylon grey primer - my brand new set of jewelers' magnifying LED eyeglasses (eBay $7!)
  14. Hello everybody. While I am waiting (and waiting... and waiting) for my minis for the Here be Dragons! Diorama, I started working on my Infinity minis. Now, the idea is to get back into gaming, and also to pull back into the hobby my wife, my brother and my best friend. I started working on the minis, but then got caught up with making a nice looking table. I got inspired by the internet, but a lot by Dadcube's recent thread (here!). Scratchbuilding terrain (and stuff, in general) has always been a passion for me. I cannot match the great paintjobs out there, but I can build nice looking stuff that looks great, because it is original and one-of-a-kind :) After some weeks working on it, I thought I would share. Perhaps this can inspire some of you, and feel free to also share ideas and tips. All pics are from my cellphone and under yellow, household light. Sorry :/ Another note: I work with centimeters. If you need to do a conversion, think that an inch is about 2.5cm So 25cm = 10 inches, and 1 meter = 100 cm = 40 inches (I know this is off and only for you to get rough measures). We started thinking about a 1.2x1.2m board. This board would be made out of 16 30x30cm pieces that could be arranged in different dispositions. These will include streets, modelled in the middle of the pieces. This is a sketch I made on a little piece of paper to share with my friend over the phone: The "theme" of the board will be futuristic-clean-oriental. If you are familiar with the Infinity background, we are thinking about making this with touches of YuJing, sorta like a merge of ultra-modern Japan and touches of cultural China. We will see where this takes us... The board: Being in Argentina we don't have a lot of materials available; or at least no big stores like Michaels, or hobby stores. This means we have to use our creativity to find stuff that works! That being said, my friend works in design so he is familiar with a lot of materials and techniques. He suggested a certain foam type that is dense... upon inspection I believe this is very similar if not the same that is used in the US for insulation. It is called "Polifan" foam here, and is used to carve out letter for signs, 3D logos, etc. I got a 60x100cm board for about 10USD. The minimum thickness is 2cm. We cut the 16 squares out of this foam board. We also got some plasticard for later detailing (probably the most expensive thing yet). I also got a big plank of "grey cardboard" as it is called here; it is the kind of stuff architecture students use here for their scale models. Cardboard plus some supplies (white glue, craft paints and clear acetate sheets*) can be seen here: * the clear sheets, intended for windows and stuff, is actually a pack of "clear plastic A4 covers" that was laying around the office; they used it as a clear cover when spiral-binding reports. I don't think they will miss one pack, plus they haven't bound reports in a lot time with PDFs now). (next post with more!)
  15. Antenociti's Workshop have announced on their Facebook page that they are planning to launch a kickstarter in early 2014 for 28mm scifi resin scenery, mdf structures, vehicles, and figures. https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=592884427415869&id=153539898016993 The sweet spot is expected to be £100 and represent about a 50% saving off retail to start. I don't own any of Antenociti's stuff... Yet, but I am waiting on pieces that they contributed to Mantics Deadzone and Mars Attacks kickstarters. The photos I've seen of their previous offerings looks great and all reviews I've read and watched on their products have been very positive. I believe this is going to be one of those "can't afford to miss" kickstarters. There have been requests for them to include fantasy and modern day lines, but so far Antenociti has stated scifi only. EDIT: link added.
  16. So, I've got a few bugs for the IMEF to hunt, but in order to do it right, there need to be some grungy, steam-filled corridors for them to hunt the bugs IN. Thanks to a trip to Skycraft (a local surplus store in the Orlando, Florida area), and to the generosity of my friend Chris Stadler (who has practically every Hirst Arts Castlemold ever made), I've got a good start on some modular sci-fi corridor sections. At Skycraft Surplus, I picked up a bunch of "Fluoroware" 2" square tiles (some slightly pressure-warped wafer trays), plus I've got a bunch of plastic cross-stitch grid and assorted interesting plastic textures (from plastic deli trays, etc.) that I've been saving because "I could use this for some sci-fi scenery some day." I put these down on some foam-core illustration board that I marked off in 1" grids (maximum size of 6"x6" for the basic modular tiles), and used some of the Hirst Arts Industrial Edge pieces (cast by Chris Stadler) to create short wall indicators. I LOVE the Industrial Edge castings. They have some conduits/pipes that nicely visually link the pieces together, and techno-bits that allow for numerous ways to fit them for variety. The "tech" is a little dated, in that, for instance, there's a CRT screen in one of the corners, but it would work perfectly for classic Space Hulk. I am thinking of trying to supplement it with some "high-tech cues," though for right now this nicely communicates some grungy, maintenance-access corridor type areas. So far, all I've done is to glue down the floor sections and the edges, then to thoroughly base it black, then to messily spritz it with grey so I end up with a grungy base look. I need to go back and do some detail work for things such as indicator lights, the conduits, gratuitous caution strips, etc. What I'd really like to do would be to make some "holo-terminals" with some translucent "neon" (green, yellow, orange, etc.) plastic strips and etch in some "display" details. I've seen the sort of plastic that would work for this, but I'm not sure where to get it without chopping up something that's perfectly useful. For now, I guess I'll just have to keep an eye out at the thrift stores and hope I get lucky. I don't figure there's anywhere I can get a sheet of "neon green" plastic cheaply. For doors, I'm likely to fall back on some Space Hulk doors. I was thinking of using some old Sci-Fi Supply vacu-form pieces I've had for a while, but they have fairly shallow details compared to the sharp details of the Hirst Arts pieces, and hence I'm not sure they'd look like they belong. (But then ... cardboard Space Hulk doors are even flatter.) For the segments, I've got an assortment of T-sections, 4-way intersections, straight-aways, rooms, and dead-ends. I also have a few corridor sections that do not have the wall edging, so they can either be used for straightaways, or else I can combine them together to make a larger chamber.
  17. Darkstar

    Warhammer Chapel

    I haven't posted something here in this WIP forum in...so long I can't even begin to remember. I just sit and think and smoke comes out of my head and gears rattle around and nothing. But anyway. I started a WIP Tutorial type deal on my tumblr and blog *once it's done* and figured why not here too. This project is the Chapel from the Warhammer scenery/terrain line. I'm doing a full buildup from start to finish and showing every step and paint along the way. So here goes. (Tune in daily except weekends as there will be new updates until completion, this is my morning before work project.)
  18. Jordan Peacock

    Micro Ops "High Ground" Terrain

    At my local Barnes & Noble, I spotted a few Halo "Micro Ops" toys in the clearance bin for 50%, and I had a gift card to use. Although it was pretty clear that the figures in "Micro Ops" are NOT compatible with, say, Chronoscope ("Master Chief" in the set stands at slightly over 1" from bottom of feet to top of head, or about 1:72 scale), I thought it looked like it'd still be big enough to make use of. The "High Ground" set main pieces -- the Gate and the Tower -- were listed at $35 each (so at 50% off, I managed to get them together for $35). I was guilty of over-estimating the size of the toys from the pictures of the boxes and the sheer size of the boxes -- once I got them home to open up, I found there was a whole LOT of empty space. (You don't get to see the actual set pieces through blister plastic as you might through typical toy packaging, or else it'd be obvious just how small they are.) The Gate is about 9.5" wide and 4.25" tall, including a 1:72 scale Warthog, a stationary gun, and a couple of Spartans. It features a slide-open door that is approximately 4" wide and 1.8" tall. The Tower strikes me as being overall larger, as it's 9" wide at its widest point, and about 7" tall; if you include the removable canopy, it's up to about 10.5" tall. "Features" include the removable canopy (the "camo netting" is a separate piece that can be removed from the frame), a "Ghost" vehicle, Master Chief, and an alien rider for the Ghost. (Sorry, I'm not up on my Halo lore to know what the type is.) A nice touch is that the pieces not only fit together, but they can fit together in a few different ways; the gate has two connection points (one on each side), while the corner piece has three points and serves as either a corner or a T-junction. In the unlikely event I should somehow get a cache of these things on the cheap (thrift store jackpot?), I could very well string together several to make a ruined fortress battleground. (There's a separate set that's billed as part of the "High Ground" set -- the "exploding bunker" -- but it's much smaller and in my opinion overpriced, and doesn't link up with either.) Of the two, I felt like the Tower was a better detail, scenery-wise, but I have to confess that having the gate is pretty handy. (I need more sci-fi doors.) For 32mm scale minis, such as my Chronoscope IMEF troopers (or the nonheroic dollies, for that matter), the doorway arch is almost a head-bumper. It looks OKAY for use with 32mm scale minis, but it's problematic for anyone with "weapon held high" poses, such as Nick Stone. It'd probably work better if you do like Froggy the Great and put your minis on pennies, so the base isn't quite so thick. The upper level is definitely head-bumper territory, with the arch pieces. I suppose that's going to cause some trouble if you want to use this for miniatures wargaming; pieces with open platforms or lots of head clearance would work better. But, boy, the pre-paint effects are kind of nice. Maybe there'd be some hope with a bit of conversion. The Tower piece, on the other hand, has more clearance; it's got 3 levels, and on all 3 I can put Nick Stone or Sarah Blitzer without their upraised guns hitting the ceiling. (Well, okay, the top level is pretty easy, lacking a true ceiling.) Of the two, I think it's pretty much ready to go for tabletop gaming. The Ghost vehicle, despite the scale problems, could work as a passable "futuristic sci-fi hoverbike." (Its "alien" nature works in this sense, as it's not recognizably clear just how large or small it should be compared to its rider.) As for the other Micro Ops sets, none of them strike me as particularly useful with Reaper minis (except perhaps for the Wolf Spider gun turret), though I suppose if you wanted to play a scaled down "Halo the Tabletop Miniatures Game," they'd work well among themselves. (Sadly, my stash of Halo ActionClix won't play well with these guys AT ALL.) Now for the "work in progress" part, there are a few screw holes that are visible, and I plan on filling those in with putty. I'm entertaining the thought of trying to find a way to elevate the upper arch on the gateway to create more head clearance. The idea of raising the clearance on the gateway is somewhat appealing, but would be a major undertaking (and would require me to lift up the Tower piece as well, so that they'd still be able to link up ... ANNNND it means if I ever get more of these, I'd have even more work to do -- so I'm a little reluctant).
  19. MonkeySloth

    Renaissance Miniatures Kickstarter

    Hey all, just saw this and thought people may enjoy this KS as it's a bit different then some that have been posted here before. Basically it's some modular laser cut buildings that are prepainted and look pretty good. What I like the best though are the carts and other scenery items are they're crazy affordable and just what I've been looking for. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1093338811/medieval-village-for-28mm-gamers
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