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I wanted a traditional Black Pudding, but I didn't want to just paint it black. When I started to think about how to make this stand out, I started to think about the shimmer that oil gets, and I wondered if Black Puddings get that shimmer as well. I looked up some photos, and thought, "I bet I can do this." Like I said in the other thread, I'm planning on putting together a tutorial on getting this effect, so that'll be up soon. This one was fun to paint! I love all the little bits and bobs in the ooze.

Just two little blobbies that are the result of killing mama with a slashing weapon. I'm working on typing a step-by-step tutorial on how I did the holographic oil shimmer with just regular paints, so that'll be up in a couple days!

Howdy, Here is one of the slimes with different color glitter paper cut to the foot print... Kev!

These are my first two painted minis in I think several decades, with probably fewer than 10 total even including my old figures. Being me, I decided to start with easy figures but non-standard paints. These were scrubbed, then primed with Army Painter Anti-Gloss Varnish to get as strong a grip as possible on a translucent figure. I decided to do the flat slime as a Crystal Ooze. For this I mixed Gallery Glass Charcoal Black, White Pearl, and Pledge Floor Polish in about equal parts. (It's hard to really dole out equal portions with the Gallery Glass sampler pots...) I gave the top a couple of layers - about 15 minutes between coats, since it takes a while for the Gallery Glass to firm up though it's a bit faster with thin layers and the floor polish added in. I decided it was a bit too pearly and not quite dark enough, so added some more Charcoal Black and a bit of water after that for the last three layers. With the top done to my liking, I added a few drops of MSP Black Ink to the remainder and gave the bottom a couple of coats. The result was a bit too shiny, so I gave it a final quick finish of the Anti-Gloss Varnish to dull it just a bit. The rearing slime is an attempt at an Ochre Jelly. I used the same basic 2:1 Gallery Glass to Floor Polish formula, this time with Harvest Yellow and Cocoa Brown. Again after two layers I felt the color was a bit too "happy" and added some more Cocoa Brown. I did two more layers and then added a few drops of MSP Brown Ink to the mix (not well blended, so I could make adjustments) and did a thin glaze with that. I didn't bother with the final Varnish coat on this one - the Ink glaze provided enough of a dulling effect on its own IMHO. The pictures don't really do justice to the transparency of the Gallery Glass paint; phone flash really killed the ambient lighting through the figures.

The fastest minis I ever painted! 15 minutes for two models, start to finish. Each got a single coat of Tamiya Clear Green/Orange and then glued to a base. I didn't feel the need to decorate the base for a puddle of acidic goo. I should probably seal them though. That hasn't happened yet, and will probably add another five minutes of slopping brush-on sealer onto them.

When posting pics of two paintings I did to my facebook account found this pic in a folder of Wormpile from the Hell Dorado mini line. Love how the gooey, icky slimy feel really worked on it. Planned to use it in my Modern D20 game I was running. But the game ended before I got a chance.

This is a quick post - pics will follow shortly from my phone. You can see the WIP with recipe and process pics by clicking on the link back there.

In between base coats of glow in the dark medium for specter #2 I decided to unwrap and quick paint the slimes with ink. What follows is, to my belief, THE green slime recipe.

The blending of green and yellow was challenging on this mini. I added some plastic tiles on the ground to create a ruined dungeon atmosphere. It was sculpted by Gene Van Horne.

From an old Grenadier box set, a green slime in the process of consuming a man in chainmail.

"Blue eyed beauty" is just about ready for my diorama. Same diorama as the Ral Partha Knight I posted some time ago.. still working on it, and I will post pictures when it's done. I am quite happy about this one, although I'm not 100% sure about the green slime.. should I add more? or maybe remove it? what do you guys think? .. I have'nt tried to make slime before. I used a small piece of fishing-line, and build the drop with semi-thick paint. Painted it green and added gloss varnish. I personally think it is a bit too "solid", so maybe I should have used the clear varnish to build up the drop.. anyone have any expirience!?? Comments and critics are welcome!

So I started on this gelatinous cube by thinning some blue ink with MSP sealer and washing it across the figure. I feel like the results came out quite well for a first coat, but what would forumites recommend as the next step? I want to preserve the translucency of the figure as much as I can.

Eww, yuck. These guys would be terrible to encounter in a dungeon. The primary colors come from unthinned inks applied with a heavy hand so they start to pool. Highlights were painted with normal colors. I used yellow ink for the right-hand one, and a mix of blue and yellow for the left (I don't have green ink). The bottom side of each is painted white, which is why they are so brightly colored. Then as a final touch, hit with a heavy coat of Citadel 'ardcoat.

Some tabletop Lemures from Reaper Bones II and Center Stage miniatures. In D&D 5th Edition, the lemure is probably the wimpiest monster in the whole book, I think a standard goblin can kill at least 20 of them. Reaper Bones 77326: Center Stage Miniatures 003:

Hi, guys, You might remember me from such twisted artistic experiments as the translucent figures from Bones the First. I've been playing today with Tamiya Clear paints and the new translucent figures, and here are some of the more... not completely awful results. These are all fairly simple test pieces so I could work out how I was going to paint the remaining figures, although they came out well enough that I'll probably keep them as is. Apologies for not having the correct SKUs - they seem to have gone missing from the Preview Gallery. (Edit - found them!) First up, the Shadow. I was basically trying to find a way to paint the purple 'shadow' translucents using Tamiya Clear paints. I used Clear Red, and Clear Blue, and while they were OK they didn't come out purple. Then I tried mixing up purple from the colors available to me, but the mixtures were (a) too dark to use and (b) about as purple as a ripe lime. So I eventually tried the Tamiya Clear Smoke and that came out quite well indeed. Next, the Ice Wall and Crystal Golem. I was aiming for an 'ice elemental' look with the Golem, and the Ice Wall was simply a test piece to see how well the blue translucents worked with Tamiya Clear Blue. The answer is, I think, very well indeed. I'll probably do the Water Weird's body using this method, and take the fins up to white foam. Next up, we have the clear translucent Slimes from the Gelatinous Cube option. These I dithered over a bit - I wanted to do one as a green slime, and the other I was debating doing a black pudding or ochre jelly, and eventually came down on the side of the ochre jelly: I'm not sure that the Clear Orange I used on the jelly looks ochre-ish, but I think it's quite effective. Lastly, we have the Gelatinous Cube. This I painted up on the outside only with Clear Yellow - I'll probably paint the inside to see how well it works, but for the moment I'm very happy with how effective it is: the two shots here have it first empty, and secondly with a figure engulfed inside.

After seeing Laoke's slimes, I wanted an ochre jelly with translucency. Hotglue shaped by dunking a mass of it into icewater (great tip I saw on the DM's Craft FB page), building up a wave. Used a lighter to melt down any wispy hotglue threads (one snuck by), then hotglued to a 1.5" base already prepped as cave floor. Slathered on a mix of yellow-orange food colouring and slow curing Delta Creative PermEnamel gloss. TBH it's more yellow in person, being very close to Laoke's G-cube's colour. but my camera refuses to capture that.

My first mini in a very long time was this: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/47135-slime-worm-winter-exchange-mini-wip/ Now, I'm going to see what I can do with 2 years of painting under my belt. Starting to base coat

I've been real lazy of recent, so a minion of Tsathoggua seems quite appropriate. Top row's colour was thrown off a little. Bottom row is pretty spot on.

Hello guys, I have a question that needs to be fleshed out a bit. My fantastic wife is putting together a skirmish style model based board game, that she would like to put up on Kickstarter. This game is intended for begining model gamers and kids (which we more then a few). This game is intended to intoduce people to easy to play mechanic that get harder as the player becomes more skilled. The models are intended to be easy to paint and base, so that new gamers and kids can learn the skills needed to presue the gamer hobby. I want to help her with this project, i have allot of contacts in the industry (artist, sculpters, casters and others) that will make this project easy to put out. But here is the problem it is looking that this project around the same time I am going to set up my own all model Going Native Kickstarter. I was wondering how you guys would feel if I were to help my wife with her project and still did my own KS Campaign? Oh here is her concept - It is capture the flag kind of game, where small candy shaped "slimes" steal a cake or pie from the other team and return it to their starting zone. We are planning spawn points that allow dead slimes to return to the game (like video games). Here is some concept art for the project