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Found 120 results

  1. Hi everyone, I wanted to show you all my latest sculpt and get your feedback. I am trying to *redacted* miniatures. Maybe some day *redacted*. Right now Gen. Brookwater is in the last stages before *redacted*. Still need to nail down the casting method and the material. But, hopefully, in the fall of 2016 or so *redacted*. But now is your chance to let me know what you like, what you don't like, what you'd prefer to see. Because, for the time being, changes can still be made! I'll be posting updates as time goes on and soon will have a youtube video up so you can really see him. Thank you!
  2. Reaper Bones #80027 "Nightslip," converted with two "flintlock" pistols and some "brown stuff" epoxy putty: I saw this figure from Privateer Press, and at some point thought, "I could probably paint "Nightslip" up to look like that!" Having a gun in each hand helped -- but they weren't QUITE the right sort of guns. (Reference image from Privateer Press site.) Basically, it just boiled down to painting a lot of what (I suppose) would be skin on the Bones mini as cloth instead, swapping out the pistols, and then -- for bonus points -- adding a little extra putty to bulk out the shoulder/cowl area to make the hooded cloak look a little more rugged and all-weather vs. just being "superheroic." The arms of the Bones model are far too delicate for normal pinning. I was able to use some fabric pins to stab lengthwise into the arms through the wrist area, but I wasn't able to get a good enough anchor point to use some sturdy wire for the pinning job. Therefore, the pistols are actually pinned to the body/cloak, rather than to the wrists. The guns are a couple of flintlock-looking pistols I got as part of a "bits" grab bag from an old "game bazaar," so I have no idea as to their origins. I suspect that they were intended to represent holstered weapons, as the big bulky area around the middle looks something like a strap or sling, but I decided to paint them up as if that was just part of the gun. Alas, they're actually a bit TOO large compared to Taryn Di La Rovissi's magelocks, but it's the best I had on hand. I used some more putty to build up the wrist areas and to make it look -- at least at a glance -- like she's wearing heavy gauntlets or thick gloves. For basing, I was able to just put the figure's integral base down on a 30mm round lipped Chronoscope plastic base. The legs are fine enough that although it would have been quite simple to cut the boot bottoms free from the base, it would have been quite the challenge to pin them down to a new base. Hence, I just stuck with the existing base, but used some putty in an attempt to extend the "cobblestone" texture outward to fill the exposed interior area of the base. The white marks on the base are to help determine forward arc and direct facing for the RPG. For the end result, I'm putting this in my box of assorted Iron Kingdoms NPCs. (The GM has hinted that our business might eventually bring us into contact with the Llaelese Resistance, so I figured adding a few Llael-inspired figures couldn't hurt.)
  3. This is another Bones miniature designed by Jason Wiebe — 80001: Ape-X. I think that a gorilla's skin would tend to be blacker than this, but that made it very monochromatic, so I browned it up a bit. And here it is again, photographed from every angle, just in case you really need to know what it would look like from a rear three-quarter view.
  4. In our current Iron Kingdoms / Unleashed RPG campaign, after my Nyss priest got one-shotted (and rolled 1-1-2 on the injury table -- a very bad thing, in case you aren't familiar with the rules) in our first combat, the GM came up with the idea that we each should have backup characters, just in case someone gets obliterated, or suffers another "Slow Recovery" result (as I did) and ends up effectively bedridden for long periods of game time while the plot demands that the others keep adventuring. I was inspired by a Hordes model, the Gobber Tinker. (Reference image.) ... And so I thought I'd try building my own. From a grab bag deal I got a while back, I ended up getting 3 or 4 copies of this same gobber model who's hauling warjack parts on his back (as part of the Cygnar Field Mechaniks unit). I imagined that one of them might work well to be the lucky guy hauling the cart ... and then I'd have the other copy to be the same figure, only minus the cart. (Sort of like having a mounted/unmounted figure pair, only "pulling a cart" vs. "riding a horse.") I started building a basic cart together with craft sticks, toothpicks, and craft "matchsticks." The wheels are some early attempts I made years ago at trying to make copies of a wagon wheel model with water putty. They really aren't sturdy enough to be used for a lot of things, but I did some patch-up work and textured the insides with some putty (which also served to reinforce them a bit), and held the wagon together with Tacky Glue (which seems to work pretty well for wooden pieces). My plan is to fill the wagon up with various "bits" left over from some of the plastic warjack conversion kits. (A friend of mine has a Khador army, and I've painted up several of his figures. He lets me keep leftover "bits," and the newer plastic kits in many cases have a base chassis and then you just swap out custom armaments for several of the different warjack types ... inevitably leaving a few extra weapon arms in the process.) ( ... picture forthcoming because "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community" is giving me grief again via Google+ ...) In my bits box, I happened to have a mis-cast resin barrel. I had been keeping that around with the intent of "burying" it in a scenery piece or a base to represent some barrel half-buried in sand, but such an opportunity just hasn't come up yet. I figured I could use it just as well by stuffing it in the cart, where all the clutter might help obscure the fact that it's really only half a barrel. An idea occurred to me that hauling a cart full of mechanikal (deliberate misspelling) gear through the wilds is to put them at the mercy of the elements. Or, rather, I just happened to have a couple of little plastic/resin bits left over from some resin casts of a Hirst Arts Castlemolds shingled rooftop (a section had to be cut out to make room for a chimney), and I thought it might be interesting to make a little "roof" over the wagon. Sure, it's unwieldy, but the wagon is going to be more than a little unwieldy once I finish cramming it full of junk, and hanging all sorts of tools, lanterns, a sign or two, and various knickknacks on the sides. The matchsticks on the top are basically filler for the gap formed by the two (thick) pieces of rooftop resin coming together; I plan to use some putty to make a top ridge of shingles for the roof, but a bit of filler reduces the amount of putty that'll get used up as gap-filler. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to handle the removable gobber. Rather than permanently fixing one of the gobbers to the cart model, I'm pondering whether it might be feasible to remove a gobber from his base and put him on some sort of pegs, then alternate between plugging it into the cart base, or its own 30mm single-figure base. So far, it's just an idea; it remains to be seen what's practical.
  5. aku-chan

    Nikola Tesla

    Presenting a Steampunk Nikola Tesla, wearing a snazzy mecha-suit. This is my 2nd finished mini of the year (though technically I started him last year), and has a small WIP here. Not too happy with this one, found it difficult to really do anything special with all the machine parts and quickly lost interest in him. I do think his trousers and face came out pretty good though. As always any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
  6. Reaper Bones 77204 "Cassiatta" (92609 from KS II) converted with spare arms from "Grind" board game, random 40K Ork bitz, and wire I went through the Bones gallery and pinned this down as 77204 "Cassiatta" (AKA 92609 from the Bones II Kickstarter). I guess it's supposed to be a Dark Elf warrior, given the pointy ears and pointy just-about-everything and general "nasty" vibe. Original Mini from Gallery: I had some brief musings of painting such a figure up humorously with lots of stitches and scars on the suspiciously-exposed patches of elf flesh (as contrasted with the HUGE SHIELD and pointy shoulder pads, which don't seem to be viable accessories if your defense strategy is to *dodge* all the incoming attacks -- but, hey, Dark Elves are just ALL ABOUT the Dark Elf look) but I didn't do anything with it, because I've got a HUGE PILE of Reaper Bones minis and more immediate figures that need some paint. Until now. In our Iron Kingdoms / Unleashed campaign, the GM has decided to make use of Cryx (magical steampunk undead) adversaries, and I happen to have a Cryx army, but for an encounter, he wanted a Brute Thrall ... and wouldn't you know? I haven't any of those, and it seemed excessive to rush out to spend $18 on a figure that's a slightly-glorified mook that'll probably only appear in a single encounter and then only briefly. Now, a Brute Thrall normally looks like this: That's a 40mm base. Big, bulked-up undead magical-steampunk guy with HYOOGE fists, and smokestacks coming out back. However, those silly sculptors at Privateer Press came up with a "convention-exclusive" alternate-sculpt Brute Thrall (AKA the "Femme Fatale") that's on the same 40mm base, with the same game stats, but it looks like THIS: (I'm getting a slight "Bride of Frankenstein" vibe here, I think on account of the high cheekbones and the pulled-back "hair" / headpiece.) Now, I thought, I just might be able to convert something that at least looks a little like this. So, I picked out "Cassiatta" (77204) from the Bones box, because I had a female warrioress type with some exposed skin (that I could paint stitches on), some arms that are AWAY from the body (so they can be trimmed off and replaced), and she's one of the taller female figures (since while the fists will still be laughably huge, I suppose there's some vague point where if the body is too small, it would just look ludicrous). The replacement arms are spare Cygnar Runner arms from the "Grind" board game (since I was able to get it on sale, a great source of cheap plastic Khador and Cygnar warjacks as baselines for customizing for the RPG, rather than chopping up a much more expensive pewter model). They're pinned, of course, since there's no way glue alone would support that sort of attachment. The back piece is from a grab-bag bunch of Warhammer 40000 Space Orks. It's some sort of exhaust-pipe thing that might have been originally intended for an Ork vehicle of some sort, but since I don't have the vehicle to go with it, it doesn't matter much. The great thing about cobbled-together undead armies (especially STEAMPUNK undead) is that I don't have to worry about finding the exact same piece twice, because there's no enforced uniform code in the undead force; they're all cobbled together, so variety is good. For the added cables, I used my standard fallback for add-on vague-tech cabling circa the 1990s: I take a piece of safety wire (a slightly thicker gauge) and then spiral-wrap some of my very thinnest picture-hanging wire around it, and snip to length, with a little leftover space for the interior wire to extend to fit into the drilled holes at each point of attachment (and I use some needle nose pliers to carefully bend it around to something resembling a curve between points A and B). There's no need to paint it metallic, because it already IS metallic (although I went back and dry-brushed with a "platinum white metallic" for some added highlight shine). I painted the fleshy areas very pale ("Denim Blue" base, then "Snowflake White"), and free-handed some "stitches" with one of my older brushes with only 3-4 strands left together to paint very, very thin lines. ... Oh yeah, and in the actual encounter, the big bad Brute Thrall went down like, SPLAT. Hmm. Okay, so that was a little anticlimactic, but I guess to be expected. The more a mini stands out, the more the PCs are going to prioritize pounding on it, right? I still had more fun, I figure, than if I'd struggled to cobble together something from my "bitz box" that looked like a "standard" Brute Thrall. :)
  7. Introducing our intrepid hero, Dr. Charles Bennet. As you see, he is quite recovered from his adventure in Egypt and the unfortunate affair with the Emperor's crocodiles.
  8. Among several bouts of re-purposing old Mage Knight minis, re-basing generic critters with IKRPG-friendly bases, and general kit-bashing over my extended holiday weekend (yay!), I attempted to make use of a Micro Art Studio "Wolsung" mini (#33 -- Phoenix) as a Nyss hero. I'm a fan of Micro Art Studio resin bases, but this is the first I've gotten from their miniatures line. My feelings are mixed. Assembly was surprisingly smooth for a multi-part figure: The parts consisted of the main body, a piece with the weapon and hands/fore-arms, and a ponytail. The ponytail segment, once I trimmed some flash, plugged into a socket onto the back of the figure's head and fit so well that it held by pressure alone even before I re-applied with glue. The weapon/hand piece wasn't quite so perfect, requiring glue and a bit of careful fitting, but it was still such a solid connection that no pinning was required. I rarely ever have such an easy time assembling a mini (I seem destined to get some glue on my fingers or an injury from the pinning drill), and if this is representative, I'm duly impressed by the engineering at Micro Art Studios. Detail level is nice and to the point: no fancy-schmancy filigrees or elaborate bits to wow me with the sculpt alone, but there is enough going on with the steampunk mechanical arm and the scowling features for me to work with. The problem was with the proportions: From certain angles, it's not so noticeable, but from others it's inescapable that the body has big buff manly proportions to the upper torso, but short halfling or dwarven proportions to the legs. The two just don't go together well. I'm hoping this isn't a common feature of Wolsung minis, and that it's just an unfortunate side-effect of the artist's attempt to make a super-dramatic "leaping with sword held high!" pose, with the sash suspending the figure. My first plan was to try to trim off the legs at the knees, pin, use wire to extend both upper and lower leg sections, then putty to gap-fill, and make some clumsy attempts at sculpting baggy cloth folds to hide the seams. The trouble is that this is a fairly hard and relatively brittle pewter mix, and one of the feet snapped off before I could make more than a little headway into the first leg. In an attempt to salvage things, I took one of the unassembled torsos from a pack of Nyss hunters, and some Instant Mold to get an impression off the legs. I then applied some putty and pressed the half-mold onto the lower portion of the Wolsung mini in hopes of extending the apparent length of the upper legs (stopping at the knees) -- and even adding a little more Nyss-specific armor detail while I'm at it. It's by no means perfect, but so far, so good. The real challenge is going to be to try to sculpt the lower portions of the legs -- which I'm going to try to do bent back underneath the upper legs. I can salvage the FEET at least, but for this sort of detail work I'll have to break out the green stuff (as Apoxie Sculpt is just too "crumby" to work well with such fine detailing of such small and delicate features as figure limbs without some considerable structural support). The style of the Nyss hunter outfit at least offers me a way out on some of this: All of the Nyss Hunter models have a back drape that pretty much covers the backs of the legs. I could possibly add such a drape to the long sash/support already on the figure, and thus obscure whatever ugliness goes on in my attempt to transform the mangled legs. More later as I tackle it some more.
  9. Here is Capt. Amelia Steam from Scale 75. It's 75mm and all metal. The basic sculpt was fine, but I thought the hair was a bit 'ropey'. Overall good casting - no short shots or pitting in my piece, but there was some trash in the hair. The pipes going from the arms to the jet-pack must be bent to fit. Floquil Model Railroad Gray Primer (brushed on) and Reaper MSP acrylics. Questions and comments are welcomed; no secrets here... Cheers, Glen
  10. Another finished Wolsung mini, this time it's the Sumo Wrestler from the Triad faction. Super annoyed I didn't spot that thumbprint on his base until after I'd got him attached, but I think the mini itself turned out really well. As always, any comments and criticisms are greatly appreciated.
  11. My exchange partner for the 2015 Fall Exchange was Tarsemina. Steampunk was the first thing on her list, and something I quite like myself, so from there it was just a matter of picking a Reaper fig that spoke to me. This figure is awesome, although she needs a real name, something besides, "Mad Scientist (female)" . As a proper mad scientist on the dangerous streets of London (I've been readying the background book for Infamy lately...) I thought she needs some companions. The dog is an Infernium Hound from West Wind's Empire of the Dead line. And her adorable "porter" is Stonehaven's Scrapbot (one of my favorite figs, which may be why I have so many...). The base is a 50mm cobblestone resin base, also from West Wind's EotD line.
  12. Presenting the Ogre Coffin-bearer, part of the Scylla faction in Wolsung. Decided to go really colourful and comic-booky with him, and I think it worked. Spats turned out to be surprisingly difficult to paint though. Any comments or criticisms are, as always, most appreciated.
  13. For your amusement. These guys used to come two to a blister, but only come in ten-packs now. Thing 1 Thing 2 As always, c&c welcome! (You know, the more I use that smiley, the more smug it looks. I like it.)
  14. This is the regular Malifaux Whiskey Golem, WYR20603 (not the "Nightmare Whiskey Golem" WYR21015 which has a slightly different pose and extra goblin figures). My husband gave it to me for my birthday as part of a selection of minis which could be used for steampunk. As he said, "It's a wooden robot!" This is the first plastic figure model I've put together, and only the second plastic model. Many thanks to the Reaper forumites who suggested glues to use, as my tube of hardware store Duco Plastic Model Cement was way too gloppy and crude for the fine detail of this model. Thanks to Doug Sundseth and haldir for recommending Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement, which, although terrifying, worked pretty well. This model did not have an assembly diagram. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture of the sprue to accompany this statement, because yikes. Zillions of fiddly bits. Fortunately, I found a diagram online for the related "Nightmare Whiskey Golem", which is close enough to work for this one as well. Between that and the render of the model on the back of the box, I could suss out how to do it, starting with the extremities and working my way in to the main body. The Tamiya thin glue comes in a little glass jar with a tiny applicator brush, perfect for detailed little models like this one but probably frustrating for people who need to apply it to large surfaces. The glue is so toxic I assembled the model outside and I wore a NIOSH respirator (and of course gloves) while assembling it. The one thing I left off was a little stack of mugs meant to hang off the peg on the upper left barrel on its shoulders. They were a little fussy and I wanted to emphasize the woodenness, not the whiskeyness of the figure. This means that I now have a spare little line of tiny mugs. Maybe I'll add it to a bartender mini ...
  15. aku-chan

    Vito Vendetta

    Presenting Vito Vendetta, the undead Halfling mobster from Micro Art Studios Wolsung. Painted him purely to try out my new rust paints on his chains, probably should've chosen something simpler for a first attempt, but I think they turned out pretty good, as has the mini overall. As always, any comments or criticisms are greatly appreciated.
  16. For my exchange partner this time around I was assigned Traxia. So if you are reading this and haven't opened your package, stop now! When going through Traxia's answers to the questionnaire, the moment I saw "Chronoscope" I knew what I was going to paint even though it's not made by Reaper. Maow makes affordable resin minis in limited runs and I just so happen to have a few of them. One in particular is the awesome steampunk figure "Johnny Rocket." There were only 400 made, but if you want one there are still a few left out in the wild. Better hurry though, before another forumite grabs one first. To try something new, or rather a lot of something news, I used Scalecolor exclusively as well as my new WAMP brushes. It was my first shot at NMM bronze, a leather bomber jacket, and the first time I opened their NMM steel set. I think the 1st shot at both NMMs worked out fairly well, though I yet lack the brush control to really do NMM on tiny things like buckles and such. Some day I shall conquer the NMM! The leather I liked a lot more before I sealed it. There was a color shift that made the browns darker and some subtlety was lost. Lesson learned. Even so it's still decent leather. If I were to change something, I would go a different route with the canvas straps across his chest. I think the color ended up a little too close to the bronze. And now for way too many pics.
  17. aku-chan

    Van Rier Ghoul

    Painted this one a while ago, but I've been waiting for my basing stamps (so I could make a fancier cobblestone base than my own mediocre skills could manage). I used a wash on his clothes to catch all the holes and rips in them, which resulted in him being a bit messier than I would like, but overall I think he looks fairly good. Any comments and criticisms are, as always, most appreciated.
  18. These are some 1:1200 Scale Steampunk Bombards. Prussian equipment. A human would be less than 2mm tall (1.5 actually) at this scale.
  19. The steampunk bug continues to bite hard! Decided to try one of my new Twisted minis, before I end up with an intimidatingly large pile of them, choose Dodger:- I hate it when they insist on making you cut those tiny, fragile pieces from great, big, giant lumps of sprue. As expected, removing him from the sprue cost him part of his scarf and coat, but I managed to do an okay job of repairing them. I also managed to assemble him slightly wrong looking at the official pics, apparently he's supposed to be aiming forward. Did his skin with a 1:1 Vallejo Dwarf Flesh/Vallejo Flat Flesh scheme. Also managed to get his teeth and eyes (no pupils though, they're too tiny!). Started on his hair with Palomino Gold.
  20. Well, sort of. My husband went a-prowling for steampunk-themed minis for my birthday earlier this month and found these 15mm armored cars for the game "All Quiet on the Martian Front." They are said to be based on Rolls Royce Spectres, circa. 1910-ish. While assembling them, the theme from "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang" kept running through my head. Oh yes, assembly. There were no instructions. Grr. What I had were three baggies, each containing the following pieces (originally the tyres were on sprues): After a while I worked out that the chassis went over the running boards, but its wheel axles slipped under the mud guards and the rear box. This had to be done before the wheels were attached, but fortunately I had only tried to assemble one car to start and the epoxy was still soft. Here are partly assembled cars: After a dry fit, I decided that priming the inside of the car bodies black would save a lot of heartache later. I did not glue down the turrets because I like being able to pose them. Hopefully this will not be too much of a nuisance to paint. And here they are: I find the green paint job on the box cover utilitarian but uninspired. I think I may go down weirder paths.
  21. Well, after lots of sweat, tears, and glaze upon glaze, I offer you "The Picnic." This small diorama contains miniatures from Bombshell Miniatures, specifically Victoriana and HLpR Bot. This piece, especially Victoriana, has been the most difficult for me so far. Essentially, the HLpR Bot is my 10th mini to complete, and Victoriana my 11th. They're 32mm scale, a first for me, and while HLpR's chunky build wasn't too difficult, the elongated (and smaller!) features of Victoriana gave me fits! I will be thankful to get back to Reaper miniatures.... The base itself is a small wooden disk purchased from Michael's and stained with wood stain from Lowe's. The gear contained in the piece was purchased as part of a wooden decorative set from Hobby Lobby, in the jewelry department I believe. This piece was made for my wife to use in our Munchkin group from time to time, so she chose the gear. Most of the paints are Reaper MSP, while the base was painted with a combo of Reaper, Vallejo (brass and gold), and Scale 75 (the green set). The foliage is a combination of Army Painter tufts, flowers, and a small piece of ivy vine. The leaves are from Secret Weapon. The red mushroom is an experiment with greenstuff, and my first attempt at something other than pinhead mushrooms. Finally, the two backdrops are from Hangar 18, and the photographs were taken with my long-awaited phone upgrade, a Galaxy s5. Yes peeps, I will stop whining about cameras... In a bit! I tried using a borrowed Canon camera, but I couldn't get it to focus at all, either manually or automatically, which leads me to believe that something, somewhere isn't set right. I don't really have the time or urge to mess with it until it works, as I'm completely happy with the Galaxy s5 pics! I used Picasa to up/download pics and color correct them. Please leave comments on this piece and how I could improve it. I did find it difficult, but that means that I definitely learned something! I hope you all enjoy and thank you for taking time to view my little area of the forum. -K Backdrop: A3 Northern Sky from Hangar 18 Backdrop: A3 Green Gold P.S.: I need to play with the distance of the mini to the light sources, or start playing with a photo box. The light skin on Victoriana really washes out. She actually has a nice blush in person, and the HLrP Bot's eyepiece is much more green. Let me check the price of a box.... P.P.S.: I had some greenstuff that leaked under my masking tape job on the wooden disk. I considered trying to cut it off but figured I'd end up lifting the entire job up from the disk... Luckily, again, it's not as noticeable in "real life" but something I need to be wary of in the future. Of course, this is my first greenstuff base. P.P.S.S.: The agonizingly long WIP for this piece is found here. What can I say? I love to write... or talk to myself... or both! LOL!
  22. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vorpaliagames/instant-dungeon-tactical?ref=category_newest Interesting take on the dungeon terrain topic ... I'm probably set concerning steampunk and dungeon, but the forest might interest me - and some add-ons.
  23. From my Through the Looking Glass WIP thread I bring you Steampunk Alice:- Decent photography continues to elude me Had super elaborate basing plans for this one, but they fell apart mainly because I was too cheap to buy a tiny mirror or frame (they probably would've fallen apart any ways, but I will never know now). So I fell back on my usual cork based ruins, though hopefully the chessboard pattern gives off enough Wonderland vibes. On the plus side, I'm really pleased with her hair and I didn't do too terrible a job painting her apron white. As always, any comments or criticisms are most appreciated.
  24. Another day, another new WIP thread (at least I finished one this time). Having a go at my Guild of Harmony steampunk set, Dorothy still intimidates me so I'm starting with Alice:- Her feet were way too tiny to pin, so it's gone up the back of her dress (no idea how I'm going to attach her to a base, but that's a problem for future Aku-chan to solve). First attempt to paint her face didn't go very well (her eyes are tiny, it's going to be a theme with this one I think), after a scrub down the second attempt went better:- Skin is Vallejo Flat Flesh, given a Flesh Shade Wash and highlighted with Flat Flesh and 1:1 Flat Flesh/Linen White, with Sapphire Blue eyes and Splattered Crimson lips. I'm using the Blonde 'Disney Alice' colour scheme, I can still only do dirty blonde though but it does seem to work well with whatever that hairstyle is. It's a base of Oiled Leather, then a coat of Palomino Gold (I had to cheat and drybrush some of it), a Sepia Wash then another coat of Palomino Gold.
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