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Found 158 results

  1. This was stress relief from bad contractors and totally unplanned. The beach base was a total whim, and works for one. I have no idea what I was thinking with the Obelix type...
  2. You can also see pirates here Girl & boy Noble & farmer Waitress and dancing girl
  3. Squareware has now launched on Kickstarter. I'm seeking funding to prototype and mass manufacture a very special dice kit I have developed that combines the best features of a Box, Bag, Mats and Dice to give you millions of instant creative solutions during or while building your RPG - and - help the DM eliminate creative, mental and physical fatigue; minimize the need for manuals; free up space behind the DM screen; allow you to craft entire quest concepts in seconds; and make it easy on your shoulders, bag or pocket to carry. #dice #rpg #dnd #tabletop #gaming https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gametilewarehouse/squareware-rpg-dice-tools-for-sparking-the-creativ
  4. In the Storm King's Thunder campaign I'm playing in we've had 2 encounters with an ancient blue dragon named Iymrith. I don't have a painted blue dragon... And my very pregnant DM isn't going to get one bought and painted before we need her, so... Digging through my minis, I figured Narthrax was as close as I've got. It was going to be blue anyway (or dessert sands brown) so that was my top choice. I also thought about the wizkids dragons, but the FLGS only had the green, and I wasn't all that impressed with the sculpt. I'd rather drop $30 on another Narthrax if I'm gonna paint a brown one in the future. Tonight I pulled her out, scrubbed her down, and started working on her base. She could probably for on a smaller base, but with her wingspan, and the fact that she's an ancient dragon, I figure she deserves it. and the cork will give her some extra height. It helps her look even bigger as compared to Blightfang! More to come!
  5. While I did mostly follow the concept art once again, I also used the banshee as a test subject for my recently purchased cool greens triad. Details are in the WIP.
  6. As some of you may have read elsewhere, I have been playing Village Attacks and painted the vampire. When I did I kept close to the concept art because I figured if I ever get someone else to play they'll be looking at the game cards, so the minis should look like what the player expects. When I looked closely at more of the cards though, it became apparent there was a bit of a problem. The monsters all have inhumanly pale skin and generally dark color schemes. The peasants look drab as well. While that is cool as concept art, having a couple 20 minis on the table that are all kind of muted colors is going to blend together more than I would like so a new plan is needed. That is to stick close to the concept art, but make everything a little more vibrant. I figure as slowly as I'll be painting these there will be plenty of time to stop for pics, so why not a thread. Next I'll be working on the banshee, but first a bit of background. You see there is another mini I would like to pull down off of the shelf of shame and work on but it has a problem. I want to paint part of it jade, but the jade paint I have kind of sucks. I like the color, but the paint itself is super shiny and too translucent. So I picked up Reaper's cool green triad to try out. The color swatch showed me Reaper's Jade wasn't quite what I wanted, but real jade comes in several variations of green. I'll find a use for it somewhere. Here's a sampling of some of the greens that I have. You can see the Reaper Jade 09015 is nothing like the VGC Jade 72026, but real Jade comes in both flavors so it's fine. I have a plan, but first I want to try the Triad out on its own just to see how it looks. Enter the banshee. Her concept art has her is a very desaturated garment with some green accents. The new cloth color will instead be the Reaper Triad and then put the green accents beside them. She will be very green. First 09013. I had originally painted the cloth but decided to texture the base before I went any further. It was messy and got some grit on her. I wasn't very thorough in removing it. Next is 09014. I just blocked it in to see what it looked like. It is noticeably warmer than the shadow color. At first it seems to stand out but... Once the jade is slapped on it really falls back into the shadows, as you can see below. My highlighting here isn't exactly accurate, but that's why we call it tabletop. There should be a step between 09014 & 09015 that I'll have to mix at some point. Under normal lighting the green just goes from dark to jade. Actually if you look at the colors there is another problem. This triad has no pop. Fortunately pop is easy. It's called VMC Ivory and solves (almost) all your contrast needs. Here it's actually mixed with the jade to create a highlight that will actually stand out. Just remember your painting lesson for today. VMC Ivory = POP and eliminates those pesky "more contrast" comments. Given that the real purpose here is to learn the triad, I'll be going back to refine things later and see how I can get it to look. Before that though I want to block in everything else so my green has something to work with. That though, is a project for tomorrow.
  7. Here's Niles Nimbletoe, the Rogue in our D&D group. 02769, Woody the Halfling Ranger is Dark Heaven Legends model sculpted by Werner Klocke. It's a model I had already painted a long time ago. I refreshed the colors and I added mud on his coat. This little guy is so tiny I monted it on a 20mm base.
  8. This weekend I painted up half the bones Familiars 1 set—the wolf, bat, and cat—as part of my plan to make it through some of my backlog. It’s been a really rewarding and fun set to paint, none of the minis take long, and despite the most of the figures being tiny the easy access to reference material made them pretty straight forward.
  9. I'm slowly working through all my minis up on corks. This one is a hero character fig from the third Star Hat Miniatures kickstarter. I guess I’m happy enough at how its come out at least as far as I just do simple paint jobs to tabletop. The fig is metal and had an intrinsic base that I extended out with some poorly applied greenstuff, and made the skull at the same time. Critiques welcome
  10. I know what you are saying...another WIP by Jasper? It will never get finished, just like all his other WIPs! This is likely true (the first step is admitting you have a problem) but the difference here is I'm not painting these guys currently. I will eventually....in theory, but that's not why I'm starting the WIP. So, if you are unfamiliar, or just don't know the name of the book series, A Song of Ice and Fire is the name of the fairly obscure book series they made into that niche little TV series they have to stick on Sunday nights, A Game of Thrones. CMoN worked with Dark Sword Miniatures (I expect there were some licensing reasons as DSM has made some spectacular Martin approved figures from the series in the past) to produce a full blown tabletop game based on the books (not the show, so don't expect Tyrion to look like Peter Dinklage). This is a full traditional type tabletop game, with units, movement trays, etc. Not what I'm used to with CMoN, but they seem to have done a pretty good job with it, and are backing it up with new armies and units coming out any time now. Of course, being CMoN AND Game of Throne, the kickstarter did pretty well, and the number of figs that came were.... So, as mentioned, units and movement trays. Movement trays are great. They keep your unit organized and make it much easier to move them around. They also make facing and alignment for engagements easy. But the problem with them is that people are clumsy. So far in every game I've played me, or my opponent (but usually me) has dropped a tray. Usually only an inch or two to the tabletop, but still... As I'm on an ASOIAF (awesome acronym...) facebook group, this seems to be a common issue. And everyone uses the common solution that movement tray based minis games have been using for decades. Magnets. Back when I played Clan War (and Gencon was still in Milwaukee) we used flat metal sheets for the trays, and stick on squares of magnet on the bases. But now we live in the future! where itty bitty super powerfully magnets are easily available. So today I'm trying out magnetizing this unit of Stark Sworn Swords. Following a post I read a while ago in the Facebook group, I ordered a bunch of 5mm x 1mm magnets. The first thing I do is grab a scratchy something (in this case a triangle file) and scratch an X into one face of a bunch of the magnets (I'll do them all eventually). Then I picked a test subject and glued one as centered as I could get it. I'm putting the scratched side into the glue as the scratches might help it adhere better and so I don't have scratches showing on all the bottoms. It doesn't matter as long as you're consistent. Once it dried a bit I needed to see if this would actually work. As these are pretty thin magnets and imported from a company I'd never dealt with before (but who sell really inexpensive magnets) I wasn't sure how strong they would be. So I picked what should be the worst spot on the movement tray, where CMoN put their logo, put the fig in the spot and just held a magnet to see what it would do. Seemed to lock on pretty good so time to test! Even with a few good shakes our test Stark seems to have held. Excellent! Time to glue the rest on. Glue should be dry now after all this typing, but its lunch so I'll see if I can get the movement try magnets glued on after a bit.
  11. And another Village Attacks mini, this time one of the peasants. For the moment I'm still following the concept art, but she was also a test for a shade of green mixing Reaper, SC75, and VGC paints. Details in the WIP.
  12. Looks like its been awhile since I last posted up here. I've been playing Village Attacks for a couple weeks now and decided to give some of the monsters a quick paint. Today I painted the Vampire. If the cast would have been better I might have spent some more time on him, but he had enough flaws that I didn't feel it worth the effort. I did a bit of an experiment with creating textures on the cloak, which worked better in the blue portion than the black. I didn't quite have the energy to freehand on the veins like in the reference art, but I might go ahead and darken the claws now that I see how it looks.
  13. I've never been much of a fan of GW. I mean the first fig I ever painted was GW, but that's because my friend (who was also the store owner) gave it to me for free (Come on, try it, the first one's free....). And I played some Bloodbowl back in the day (should really finish my Chaos Dwarf team one of these days...only been a decade or two). But I never really got into anything GW was making. Style wasn't what I was looking for, or the price point, or whatever. So then last week I was in Montreal for the GP (great time, too bad the race itself was soooooo boring). Was visiting a friend who lives up there and we wandered into the rather impressive GW store in the Eaton Centre. Took a look around and caught sight of this: Apparently a new edition of Age of Sigmar is coming out this week, and these guys are a faction. Or whatever the different groups are called. I thought, "Those are pretty cool! Flying stuff. Steampunky. I like." Then we left. And I went and marshaled for 3 days (the support races were better, btw). Then we met back up on Monday. And I was still thinking about the cool steampunky flying ships. So we went back and I picked up the starter. (they have 2 bigger flying ships too, but ouch, not cheap). So, this is what they look like when you open the box: Oye! Lots of bits. Looks like everything has options (they have a very detailed assembly guide, quite impressive). Options that presumably follow rules. Rules I'm not sure I'll ever read, let alone play. But I may check with the local store; I think they had some folks playing something GW. So that's all I've done with them so far, but figured I'd post and get the WIP started. These may take a bit to get going.
  14. In Bones 2, Reaper had several large sea monster creatures, one of which, the Goroloth (Reaper’s answer to the Aboleth), came in the Expansion 2 set. This was one of the figures I was least interested in, and figured that if I ever got around to painting it, it would be because I was trying to finish up the set. Primordial evil fish monsters just aren’t my thing. Of course then my DM decided to introduce one into her game… so… Now I’m painting an aboleth. My inspiration from the 2e Monster Manual. After digging it out of my boxes of Bones minis, I did my usual washing in hot soapy water and scrubbing with a toothbrush. Mold lines were minimal, and ignored, but I did notice that the plastic on this guy was much softer than I’m used to. Reminded me a lot of Kaladrax’s head. Along with assembling, I went to the 5e Monster Manual to check on the size of an Aboleth. Large, aka a 2” base. Far too tiny for this mini, so I upped it to a 3” base. I glued the flying stand to the bigger base, and then covered it with blocks of cork attached with hot glue. I was picturing an underwater ruined palace. Sadly I don’t have a good statue that I could have ruined on the base. Once the mini was all assembled, I primed it with Blue Liner, and then blocked out the colors with Deep Ocean Blue, Oceanic Blue, and Marine Teal. The bony bits were painted with bone, as were the stripes on the tentacles, while the gills and suckers on the tentacles were painted with Monster Maw. The many eyes were painted with Heraldic Red. I then gave just about everything a wash with GW’s Leviathan Purple. It seemed appropriate. Returning to the base I primed it with black craft paint, and then dry brushed it with Mountain Stone, with more and more linen white added to it. I then applied dots of Jade Green to look like sea moss growing on it. I still need to bring the highlights back up, but this is where he's at now: Gonna call that ready for game!
  15. Turn order ... Some games turn is one full side gose, then the other sides full force gose, easy to keep track of but first shooting or alpha strike army's can make this a kinda lopsided go of it ... Some alternate unit activation witch keeps both sides active and reduces overwhelming fire but leads to several smaller units trying to bleed out the 'activations' of the other player before throwing out an end cap ... their big shooty unit going last one turn then first the next to effectively double tap ... Some have randome activation (colored dice in draw bag) or dice for following activation with command roll ... both good options ... Other popular turn structures ? Turn mechanics ... You know, player A rolls to hit, then rolls to wound then player B rolls to save wounds then maybe a moral check ... I was thinking of cutting this down to Player A rolls for hits ... player B saves vs wounds (putting wound modifiers and armor modifiers together in one roll) with a possible moral roll ... Kinga of war also has a kiss system but player A rolls to hit, to wound, and against player Bs moral value on his turn with player B making all rolls on his turn ... So I have been working on a semi randome (with some player influence) unit activation system with the player A rolling to hit with B save but now wondering if active player making all roll would be more or less intuitive ?
  16. I used this figure for CMPA's Adventurer Challenge, and practicing chilling out on a figure instead of going detail crazy. Naturally that meant I had to try something new on it anyway. New: I put a lot of effort into her hair, and actually used it as practice for the hair on my ranger to get better hair methodology down. New: I also took a stab at NMM on armor, with mixed success. Not 100% happy, but it didn't get as much effort as the hair, and I wasn't going for perfection on that part. Same with the sword, not 100% happy, but decided to be satisfied until I try another figure. Because I couldn't resist: I decided the boots were bland, so I freehanded gladiola flowers onto her boot. Then her bra and her dagger needed flowers too. Her name is now Gladys, because she likes said flowers. The minimal effort: Skin tones. I went for a pretty basic set, didn't go crazy on this part, but for a "good enough".
  17. Hi everyone! So looking back at 2017, I am absolutely ashamed to see that I had only completed 5 (five! Only five!) Miniatures this year. Granted, I didn't have access to my painting stuff until April, and had five major life events happen this year both good and bad. The minis I did complete I am very happy with, and I did really push myself to get better and learn some new techniques. I also started about 30 miniatures that have not been finished, so I did more painting than it seems. When looking at my paint desk it has become apparent that I have far, far too many unfinished projects- including a few from more than four years ago. Therefore I have 3 goals for 2018: 1) paint 52 miniatures within the calendar year. Any stand alone miniature counts. 2) of these 52, complete at least one CAV force to bring to reapercon 2018. 3) complete two unfinished miniatures before starting a new miniature. In that vein, I have started my resolution a little early: These are 20 skeletons from wargames factory I assembled and primed this summer, but never finished as I had airbrush problems. Tonight in about 2 hours I blocked them in woodstain brown and began dry brushing with terrah khaki- a nice bone color by the way! My intention is the shade and highlight them, then arm them. I want to use these guys as an excuse to try verdigris... I am very excited to see how it turns out. If i get these guys done I'll already be more than a third of the way to 52 miniatures. Wish me luck and expect more update soon!
  18. While waiting for washes to dry on an exchange fig this morning, I decided I'd try getting a decent paint job onto a fig I pulled out of the latest BoGW that @robinh let me browse through last week. I pulled this fig because I thought it would work well as an evil mage type in the Savage Rifts setting. But I didn't think I'd use it for the current game, as the last encounter is tonight, before we switch over to 5th Ed for a while. But what the heck, I'm going to see what I can do with him anyway. Here's about 40 minutes of base coating. Robes/gloves will be dark red, tassley cloak thing will be purpley greys. Lots of metals. Anyone able to identify him? GW? Warzone maybe? (Identified below.....)
  19. And now for this week's minis, the spikeshell warriors. These guys were painted to tabletop using the same artists paints, but one was over white and the other was over black. The shell patterns are also different, but I ended up liking one more than the other. Thanks for looking.
  20. On the Reapercon website, I noticed that there is a link to submit a game. But when I clicked on it it took me to the GM policies page. Is there a link somewhere for the game submission forms to fill out? buckyball
  21. Back in December, when I finally had some time and motivation to get back to painting, I decided I'd really quickly do up some IMEF marines. Just table top, didn't even clean up mold lines or anything. Well, do primarily to being easily distracted by......what was I saying? Oh yes, easily distracted by other bright shiny objects, it took me over 4 months to get them all done. Here is a quick group shot. I still don't have any real futuristic urban terrain to use to shoot these guys. Reggie and Torch still need to be sealed, but looking at the forecast it could be June before it stops raining. The rest have already seen combat as some mercs for hire last week in Savage Rifts. WIP ( with many individual shots) is here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/78476-jasper-gets-back-to-painting-with-some-imef-marines/
  22. Yet another German war machine (in case you were wondering, yes I also have Russian, British, US and Japanese stuff, I'm just doing all the German at once so I can paint them all at once). This unusual creation came out of the recent Panzermech Kickstarter by West Wind. A giant War Wheel. Should be a pretty quick and easy assembly to get it ready for priming. All I've done so far is washed the resin.
  23. Sometimes you have to force your way through the rough patches. Fortunately, I recently found Valloa here at my FLGS. Given that she’s been on my “want” list for a while and their selection of metal minis was sparse at best, I snapped one up to dispel the painting melancholy. Apologies in advance for the bad images, lighting didn’t want to comply, and the closest to true color I could get has bad shine from camera flash + sealer. Here she is: I didn’t originally have plans to paint this one as a drow. But, I wanted a chance to try out the dark elf skin triad and didn’t have any other available elf minis to mess around with. The paints are fantastic though, and will likely see use outside of skin in the future. This is the second mini I’ve done with a purple cloak. I think the shadows and highlights turned out better (and more varied) than the previous attempt. And working upon previous advice, used no less than seven shades of brown overall (not that you can tell). Please feel free to comment and critique! I need to improve on things next time.
  24. I'd planned to get started on these a bit ago, but got distracted by other bright shiny objects... Forged in Battle (West Wind Production's historic line) are currently doing their third Kickstarter for their War and Empire line of ancients with a little over a week left. I figured it was time to get started on some of mine from their first Kickstarter for that line, from a couple of years ago. I don't really know what I'm doing with these , and my knowledge of history from the era is primarily from the Iron Maiden song about Alexander, so I'm going to have to do some googling and ask some questions (apparently base sizes and number of figs per base are of some importance....). So to start off, I opened my box from KS1 and grabbed a pack, making sure it wasn't cavalry or camelry or chariots or elephants or anything super cool, since I'll save those for after I know what I'm doing a bit. The pack I grabbed were WE-RP02, Roman Velites, from the Punic Wars. Now in the Kickstarter I picked a couple of stater armies that they had pre-defined. Apparently these guys are from one of those. I'll have to track down which ones I picked sometime soon I suppose. I've got a spreadsheet somewhere..... Anyway, I dumped them all out a sorted them by pose. Looks like there are 4 standard poses, plus a command and a standard bearer. I cleaned them up and got to here: Looks like I got 6 of 3 of the poses, 7 of the other, 2 commanders, a standard bearer, and an extra shield and banner. That adds up to more than 24 figs, which is apparently common with these packs. So, I "think" I need 1 commander and 1 standard bearer, and presumably 22 other guys. And I "think" they go 4 figures on a 40mmx20mm base. But I need to check on all that. And I need to figure out what I'm going to stick them too for painting....
  25. I've been running a Savage Rifts campaign (Pinnacle did a Kickstarter to adapt Palladium's classic Rifts setting over to the Savage Worlds rules). So I decided I needed some things painted that would work in that setting. As the Coalition is ever present but I have lots of "guys in armor" I decided to start with some Skelebots (The Coalition's disposable killer robots, designed to look like skeletons, as the Coalition is all about the skulls). I have a bit of an issue with ordering anything from Palladium these days (Robotech) combined with their existing Skelebot figs being from the early 90s and pretty rough by today's standards, so I went for Reaper's awesome Cyber-Reavers as substitutes. I ordered a couple of packs at Christmas then found 3 more that were left over from another project. The plan was for a nice quick tabletop paint job, but it still took over a month, as I kept getting distracted by other things (like big stompy robots, and actually doing game prep). Finally got around to finishing them yesterday, and sealing them today. @Glitterwolf requested (and provided) a fancy background, so I printed it out and grabbed a Sci-Fi bridge terrain piece for them to stand on. WIP is here.
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