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  1. Hi everyone! I just started a second Trash Bash Bits campaign on Kickstarter. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/847163926/trash-bash-bits-part-two Trash Bash Bits were created to make the crafting of wargame buildings faster and more fun by eliminating the need to scratchbuild doors and windows to add to projects. The first Trash Bash Bits Kickstarter campaign was very successful and helped to create five designs of science fiction doors and windows. Trash Bash Bits 2 will add to this collection with five new designs! The castings of the first TBB campaign were enthusiastically praised by backers for being sharp and clean. The detail on the final castings actually looks sharper than on the prototypes! Plus they are lightweight and have flat backs so you can glue them easily to plastic, foamcore, styrofoam, or any other common modeling material. Don't throw away your time. Use Trash Bash Bits!
  2. This year the minis I manage to paint will all count towards the resolutionary challenge. As per the resolutionary painting challenge guidelines, I will post them here, and link in my post in the challenge thread. With the refurbishment of the old house complete and it now up for sale, I have at last some time to paint a miniature or two. It has been more than a month since I touched a brush smaller than two inches wide, and I have come to the conclusion that I utterly detest redacorating houses, especially everything that involves masking tape. So anyway, here goes: Oathsworn Miniatures have made a series of resin scatter terrain pieces to go with their Dwarfs and their Burrows and Badgers Kickstarters. They have done everything by themselves, making moulds and casting at home on their dinner table, and sharing the entire process via their excellent updates. Here are the first two bits I have done, the Burrows and Badgers Tents. Keeping it simple. These are well made tents for the discerning adventurer, and a place for the dormouse to sleep when the teapot is needed for tea. When all the bits are done, they will make for an interesting campsite among ruins for a furball fight. Two Tents Burrows and Badgers KS1. Oathsworn Miniatures Resin Integral base
  3. These are from the Boat Pack, part of the Renaissance Miniatures East Asian line. I made them up for my husband's birthday. On the whole they went together fairly straighforwardly. I found the cabin support hoops on the larger boat (they call it a "twakow" but "tongkang" may be a more common term -- I just think of it as a riverboat with a sail) needed a little shaving to fit into the openings on the deck. The planks that go over the hoops, making the shelter, were a little fiddly on both the sampan and the larger river boat. I ended up leaving off the top central plank on the sampan. I include the Reaper Sea Lion and a Dark Sword mermaid warrior figure for scale. These are the outrigger canoes, one with a sail: This is the larger, sailed riverboat and the sampan:
  4. These are prepainted wood kits from Renaissance Miniatures. I made them up as a gift for my husband, who is running a nautical campaign. The stiffened gauze fabric is supposed to look like a fish net. I'm not sure how successful it was. The kits are pretty nice. They are well-designed, fit together well and come apart into separate layers so you can place figures on different floors inside.
  5. These are a couple of little bridge kits from the prepainted Renaissance Miniatures East Asian line. I put them together as part of a terrain bundle for my husband's birthday. I think of them as the sort of thing that would show up in a zen garden. Putting the slats on was a little fiddly because they sort of held the whole thing together at first. I needed to glue down a couple of steps at each end, then wait and glue the rest later. These are Hasslefree figures and a little Breyer horse for scale.
  6. To get a bunch of minis painted for the paint challenge, I finished 7 more pieces of terrain from Oathsworn Miniatures. Fun and easy low stress tabletop paint jobs for the win!
  7. Okay, so I'm going through the local Goodwill, and I see this toy (image grabbed from a Google image search) on the shelf: (EDIT: This is the Fisher Price Lil Zoomers Rockin' Roll Truck. Picture is linked off-site and might not load for some -- sorry!) Because I'm me, the first thing I think is, "Wow, the front of that truck looks sort of like one of the cab-over-engine rusted hulks in Fallout." And, thus armed with a weird idea, I picked it up and converted it into THIS: Steps involved: * Flip over, unscrew every screw that can be unscrewed. * Snip wires going to battery compartment for internal electronics. Save speaker, circuit boards, lights, just in case that might ever be useful for something. (Probably not, but who knows?) * Remove googly-eye "headlight" insert and annoying rattle-ball atop roof of cab. (Save rattle ball -- it's a sphere, after all, with two halves, and might be useful for building something else ... maybe.) * Use Dremel to cut away plastic parts holding rod for central tilt-bed. (It looks like the rod was jammed in there forcibly and meant to STAY there, but I haven't the tools to worry it out properly -- so just cutting away the plastic innards until I can remove it seemed the fastest solution.) Remove handle, rear "trailer" area, wheels, smokestack/button, rear gate, and tilt-bed. * Use epoxy putty to fill "smile" on front bumper. No smiles belong on rusted trucks in the Fallout universe, I'm pretty sure. * Use piece of mat board and some putty to cover up the roof hole. I couldn't really smoothly match the contours of the curved top, so I just added a panel up there, curved it a bit, and hoped it might plausibly pass for an original structure. * Use Dremel cutting disc to cut out hard, opaque "window" recessed areas, to make broken-open windows, and clean up some of the plastic "crumbs" resulting from this operation. * Use Tehnolog Robogear/Platformer panels to make interior dash and seat frames, plus some plastic to cover up a hole in the back of the cab. * Use a piece of scrap plastic to make a new flat "bed" on the back of the truck, to cover up holes and internal workings. * Use a HeroClix base with a slot cut out of it, propped on a bit of putty at an angle, to make a "fifth wheel." * Use some Warhammer 40K scenery pipe "bitz" to make a replacement smokestack, with some putty to gap-fill the area it nests into. * Spray-paint the whole thing black on interiors and bottom, grey on the outside and top. * Splash "burnt orange" (rusty) paint all over, then stipple with "golden yellow" here and there. * Messily stipple with multiple applications of "Caribbean Blue" paint on upper body, and "Sandstone" for lower bumper / frame areas. Leave headlight and taillight rims bare "rust" color, along with anything else that might have once been shiny and chrome (such as the front grill). Indicator lights are painted the dingiest yellow-tan and barn-red colors I have. (I'm deliberately avoiding bright, solid, primary colors.) * Splash everything with some black and grey washes. Splash it some more. Spatter it with some brush-flicking until some of the splash-on is thick enough to run in rivulets. Yay, grunge! ... I would like to have added some rusted-out axles, but the wheels on the original toy are solid plastic (tire and axle alike), with big Fisher Price logos on them, and any use of them for such a purpose would require a whole lot of cutting and covering with putty, to the point where it might be questionable why I used the plastic part in the first place. I might later on try to make rusted, tire-free hubs out of HeroClix bases and metal rods, but for now just leaving the wheel-wells totally empty seems to work well enough for purposes of making this look like a rusted-out, long-abandoned roadside hulk. As Wendy notes, it looks to her more convincing as a rusted-out old 1950s TOY rather than an actual truck, partly because of the ridiculously large headlights and generally round and friendly shapes incorporated into the design ... but a lot of Fallout vehicles look closer to old toys than they do to anything from real life, so I'll roll with it. I've not bothered to replace the screws to hold the thing together. In the Fallout game, if you hit one of the various rusted nuclear-powered cars or trucks littering the landscape, eventually the thing would go KABLOOIE with force and area of effect comparable to a mini-nuke -- and then you'd leave behind an even worse-off wreck in the aftermath. I need to add some "torn-up scraps" to the interior for such a purpose, but I'm thinking I might go with the idea of having the cab be deliberately removable so I have an "even-more-damaged" blown-up version to leave on the table. I suppose it might make a firefight all the more interesting if there's a chance of stray shots setting off unstable reactors littering the street (in the form of junked nuclear cars). I'll just have to be sure and warn the players of this, so we don't have the PCs getting the bright idea of climbing INTO the truck wreck to use it for cover in a firefight, and then ending the session with a nuclear TPK.
  8. This is not my work but since it involves the tower that comes with Dragons Don't Share I thought folks might be interested. There is some seriously nice work going on here and Kevin does a nice job stepping through his process. http://mageknightkevin.blogspot.com/2015/11/ruined-tower-large-terrain-project-step.html
  9. Here are 2 walls from Oathsworn Miniatures, that I painted to test out my color scheme, before I do the rest. These are painted using mainly with craft paints bought specifically for terrain painting.
  10. I decided to paint up my ruined tower from Dragons Don't Share 2. I'm no where near as good as the many other experts here but I thought I'd share what I did. In particular I was inspired by these 2 threads: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/63646-dds-2-tower-finished-work-in-progress/ http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/62204-dragons-dont-share-2-in-seven-days/ I decided to go with the same basic painting scheme as I did with my Dwarven Forge stuff. I started by covering it all with a basecoat of Pokorny Paints Base Grey. Then I washed it with black ink. I then did a heavy dry brush of the Base Grey again. I then did a lighter dry brush of Pokorny Olive Dry Brush. I then mixed some Pokorny Stone Edge Dry Brush with the Base Grey and did a lighter dry brush with it. I then mixed in some more Stone Edge Dry Brush and did an even lighter dry brush. I then used a few greens, browns and a little purple smears in various places. I then flocked it with some woodland scenics stuff. I don't have much of a variety but I think it looks good. I made some of the base gravelly and some grassy for a bit of variety. I then painted the treasure. I took the pictures before the treasure was painted. I'm happy with the way it turned out. Now I need to get brave and paint the dragon!
  11. Here are another three bones models to be used as scatter terrain for an upcoming Frostgrave game. These were sprayed black and then dry-brushed to highlight. Nice and simple. I decided to keep the colour choice simple and subtle to tie in with my other terrain. As always comments welcome.
  12. This was one of several terrain pieces my husband gave me for my birthday earlier this month, a "Medieval Cottage 1300 - 1700" from Perry Miniatures. This is the first hard plastic miniature I've ever put together, and I'd like to thank the other forumites who gave me advice on glues and things. It came on several sprues, three I think it was, and went together pretty easily. The doors open and shut. There is also a small shed for animals or wood or something, and a lot of woven wicker fencing. I didn't take any pictures of the assembly or priming, but at the moment it has been thinly primed with transparent white and washed for shadows with Burnt Umber. A lot of the original grey plastic still shows through. I am probably going to paint this very strangely.
  13. I'm happy to say that I was able to get spray paint AND brush-on to work as primers for my shipping containers. The top-most red shipping container in the picture was painted using a can of red spray paint (Wal-Mart store brand). I started by spraying the underside of the lid and the inside of the container to see how the plastic would hold up. The lid underside dried reasonably quickly, though the interior of the container remained tacky for longer than it usually takes for base-coats on my miniatures to dry (so for a bit I was concerned that this wouldn't work). However, when I let it sit overnight, both pieces were perfectly dry, so I went ahead and painted the whole thing. I had a little trouble with getting coverage in some of the overhang areas (I didn't want to hover around missed spots too much and risk running paint, or melting plastic with the medium), but I could touch that sort of thing up with brushes anyway. For the other boxes, I painted them up by hand, choosing fairly opaque base colors. One coat won't suffice for even coverage. I have found that the spray-painted box is much more resistant to paint getting scraped off; the spray base coat definitely helps, even with the plastic, as the plastic is just too smooth to provide a very good anchor on its own. For the box labels, I searched online for images (Google search for "iso container door"), pasted them into a Word document, cropped, and scaled them to height (about 1.75" high, based on an approximation of the height of the model between the bottom and upper "lips"), printed four copies of each door, and then cut out the various label elements to glue onto the boxes. E.g. (I think this is a picture of a model): For the double doors, I pretty much used my pictures as a guide for where to paste the labels. The mechanism doesn't correspond perfectly to the structure on the doors of the Reaper Shipping Containers (in fact, the mechanism on the actual model is apparently nonsensical), but it at least gives the basic idea at a glance. Similarly, I know nothing about the meaning behind the various codes printed on the containers; I'm treating it pretty much like text-filler "Greek" -- all that matters is that there's some sort of print so the surface doesn't look conspicuously blank. (Still, I can't help but think about what a real train enthusiast might think of my boxes. "Why, that's NONSENSE!" Kind of like when I would get some imported Japanese toys with weird pseudo-English stamped on the vehicles. If you couldn't read English, it'd look just fine. And I suspect the reverse would be true for that craze back in the 1980s where random Kanji would be printed on T-shirts and head-bands, and for all I know the characters might spell out, "I Am An Idiot!" rather than the "Super Awesome Ninja Warrior!" message I might have hoped for it to say. :) ) Just about every ISO container reference I could find has flat panel areas for these codes and stats to be printed on, but Reaper's model has every side corrugated. This is a bit problematic, but I just glued down my cut-out paper labels (trying to color-match them as best I could manage), and used my thumbnail to push down the paper into the troughs of the corrugated surface so it might follow the surface a little better. For "distress," I dry-brushed the corners and underside with the rustiest paint I had (burnt orange), and splattered the whole thing with a bit of black acrylic wash (making puddles on the roof, and doing wash-spatter on the sides by wetting the brush, holding it back with my thumb, and then flicking the surface -- and trying to make sure nothing of importance was also caught in the spatter-range, as that's a very MESSY way of painting). I roughly painted the locking bars a dark "graphite grey," then went back over with a lighter "granite grey" to make the bars stand out. I plan on using these for a construction site for a "Fearsome Critters" (Savage Worlds) RPG scenario -- modern day -- but I may also use them as tabletop terrain for a Fallout-themed scenario, so I've tried to keep the boxes somewhat generic by NOT putting big shipping company logos on the sides. (If I ever do that, I'm going to make some stencils, and paint them on, rather than trying to do it with paper. The paper labels are passable for the really small details, but if I'm covering whole sides of the model, at some point I might as well just be making papercraft.)
  14. Has anyone used papier-mâché in terrain making? Seems like an easy way to make large light weight things like hills and mountains that still have the potential to be rather strong, depending on how many layers you use, and what you varnish/seal it with.
  15. A few years ago I had picked up this aquarium decoration for gaming use, and not knowing what exactly to do with it I had stuck it in a cabinet and almost forgot about it. Then, while reading the Frostgrave rulebook, and about the various oddities that can be found in the city; I got the idea to make a terrain piece for my Frostgrave games that was a magically shrunken domed city that floated about the Frostgrave ruins. I separated the top piece from its original pedestal, and mounted it on a flight-stand peg and a conventional large round plastic figure base. I extended the castle grounds in the back with some Milliput so the dome, which came from a bubblegum-machine prize container, would fit. I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I think I will use it as a floating piece of terrain that moves randomly across the tabletop, or perhaps as a scenario objective. For the complete write-up on the conversion, please see my blog: http://onemoregamingproject.blogspot.com/2015/09/the-shruken-city-of-summergrove.html
  16. Has anyone got recommendations for terrain of a suitable scale for CAV robots, with a particular focus on buildings? I am told the scale is 10mm, which I am told is about 1/180, or model railroad N scale. There are a lot of readymade and kit model railroad buildings out there, although most of them seem to be smaller and more rural or historical. Are they worth the price? Hydrocal is like plaster, isn't it? So a hydrocal building would be pretty heavy. Styrene, however, sounds a bit fragile. But I don't know; it's not my area of expertise. I have some vision of playing the game among futuristic, relatively tall skyscrapers. While I'm pretty sure I can make some out of half-gallon milk cartons, I am wondering what other possibilities are out there and if anyone can recommend -- or warn against -- products or processes.
  17. Finally got back to doing conventions this weekend, with CelestiCon in Fremont, CA. Here's a glimpse at some stuff we had on the table. Most of what we had this weekend was scratch-built, or kit-scratched, which is I guess what you would call it when you borrow one piece from a model (like a GW crater) and scratch build on top of it. Not quite a kitbash. But anyway, most of it was just made by hand.
  18. Since they didn't fit in any of my other recent topics, here we have my newest Nurgle Lord, Rotmeister Gleb Festershire (who is totally not Otto Glottkin):
  19. Oathsworn Jo's Burrows and Badgers tents.
  20. Originally I decided not to get this set with Bones2, At the time I was living in a cramped apartment and had no display areas and little storage space. I did buy most of the other dragons in Bones2, enough for a full set of chromatics. Then I moved to a bigger house with lots of room to display miniatures and scenes. We finished moving in only a few weeks after Bones2 arrived. So I found this set on Ebay instead. 65$ with free shipping. With the contest running hot for painting Maldrakar in a week I decided that the big draw for me was the deadline. Since I passed on Maldrakar, I thought I would try the same timeframe for the biggest dragon I had, and all the terrain. I wasn't going to do the size 0 brush, or the adventuring party that came with the dragon, I have plenty of painted adventures. I could spend another 3-5 painting days on the dragon, massaging the details, and perhaps someday I will. But for now I have a playable/displayable enormous dragon and terrain.
  21. I've been talking with one of my fellow gamers about starting a X-com like game, think necromunda or mordheim. Soldiers versus aliens, battling it out in city streets, docks, woods, ufo crashes UFO's.... Ect I'm looking for terrain. Terrain that you can hide in, climb around that is quick to assemble... I am a fan of hirst arts, and I think I will look at his molds for UFO adventures. But his stuff is slow to assemble and make and paint. Are there any suggestions for inexpensive, terrain that's modular, quick, sturdy, versatile
  22. So I'm thinking of building terrain "fronts" by taking some leftover foamcore, some photos of buildings, and creating some fold-out support ('L-shaped?) so that they will stand up. Has anyone ever tried this? I'm thinking of building fronts because a) more easily stored b) give me lots of flexibility to create mood c) my GNL mats will be used for layouts. d) faster than building full, playable bulidings I'm wondering about sizing. if I do 12 ft per story, that'll fit on an 8x11 paper? I suppose I should compare it to my existing 2 floor MDF stuff, but different eras. I still have no idea yet whether I can find enough photos at sufficient resolution to do this. I took one from google streetview (spoilered), which is also 3 storeys. I suppose I will test something out and report back. In the meantime, please make suggestions, refer to other similar projects/products you're aware of. Thanks.
  23. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-30687171 My favorite news story of the day, strongly reminiscent of malefactus' amazing terrain project.
  24. The BELVEDERE OF SKULLS is, like so many other magical items and places, the result of an experiment gone awry. Originally, the idea was to preserve the knowledge of wizards and experimenters from the Shadow Guild, a secretive order of necromancers, by preserving the skulls of past members, as a link to their spirits and their accumulated knowledge. A wizard with the proper spells and safeguards could step into the Belvedere and question the masters of yesterday about specifics, spells, and practices, as a research aid. As a starter, several of the elders of the Shadow Guild offered to donate their own knowledge and remains to the project upon their deaths. And had it been left at that, the project might not have been such an explosive failure. The Guild was never a large organization, and its members were hardly inclined to hasten their deaths in order to contribute to the project... and the younger wizards were impatient. So they began by seeking out the remains of necromancers and wizards outside the Guild, to obtain said remains to move the project forward. This was a mistake on two fronts; few spirits care to have their rest disturbed against their will by nosy strangers, and at least two of the practitioners in question had obtained power by mortgaging their immortal souls with denizens of the infernal planes.... As the project began to take shape, one of the young wizards in question had an idea: if the elder masters would not share their accumulated lore at his convenience, would it not be easier to arrange their demise, build their skulls into the Belvedere, and interrogate them at leisure? Without bothering to consult with his fellows, he inhumed three of his elders, disposed of the bodies, and added their cleaned skulls to the pile of raw materials. This, too, was a mistake; the spirits of murder victims are seldom inclined to cheerfully cooperate with their murderers, and often retain considerable confusion and/or anger over their sudden demise... and spirits are often not good at telling one living person from another... In the fullness of time, the Belvedere of Skulls was complete. Its construction had not been rapid, and its originators and architects were long since dead. Several had, in fact, contributed skulls for its construction. And this was the final mistake its makers made: when you're undertaking a complex project, it is almost always a bad idea for the project in question to pass through a succession of work crews. Differences of opinion, perceived improvements, and design changes tend to slip in. And on that day, when the final Speak With Dead spell was inscribed and laid in place, and the Permanency spell cast to preserve the Belvedere for the ages, the ranking Guildmaster, Drorvik the Elder (privately known as Poochie to his friends) stepped into the Belvedere to ask the first question of the many, many souls bound to the most unusual library ever built. His head didn't quite explode. He might have been more fortunate if it had; the psychic feedback from dozens of willing souls, several unwilling ones, a variety of rather surprised ones, quite a few enraged ones, and at least two infernals of indeterminate nature is not a thing a single human mind could handle. His body survived the experience, but for all practical purposes, his brain might as well have been a cold bowl of Malt-O-Meal. To call the Belvedere "haunted" was an understatement on par with calling the Tarrasque "a sort of pesky varmint." And what's worse, some of the spirits in question still had access to spells... Some of the necromancers survived. Several city blocks did not. Twelve hours later, the Belvedere and several local landmarks and natives were gone. Some of the landmarks and natives reappeared in time, at various distances from their previous locations. Others did not. The Belvedere of Skulls is best described as a Genius Loci suffering from a really bad case of multiple personality disorder. Its location changes periodically, from city streets to desolate mountains or deserts, and occasionally on other planes. Depending on which spirit's in charge, which ones are paying attention, and/or who's screaming the loudest, it can be remarkably helpful, even pleasant... or very much the opposite. Experienced wizards and bards, and individuals with high Charisma can have bonuses in dealing with it, or not. To step into the Belvedere can be to have questions answered, spells learned, replenished, or taken away, or to be psychically assaulted, or to see strange places and things from the memories of the souls within. At least one character was suddenly awarded 20,000 experience points, but was then told to make a Will save at -10 to avoid going insane from the influx of alien memories. One thing is certain: if you value life and sanity, don't EVER call it a "gazebo." Recently, one of the finest hobby shops in the area closed down. I was deeply saddened to see it go. This did not stop me from taking advantage of their Going Out Of Business Sale. And among the things I wound up buying were several packs of Skull Life Counters, pewter skull beads on a string, intended to keep track of your Life Points in a card game I think we're all familiar with. Twenty skull beads for a buck. I bought all the remaining packs. Only afterwards did it occur to me to wonder what I'd DO with the things. ...so today, in a memorial for Bonnie Brae Hobby Shop, I began assembling a structure...
  25. This is one of several terrain pieces my husband gave me for my birthday earlier this month. Technically this thing is called a "Small Hovel", but it seems more hut-like to me. It has a removable roof that I'm not planning to glue on, something which might be a bed inside, and a surprisingly good-looking door. It says it's resin, but whatever this is it's very different from the other resin terrain I have, which feels plasticky and resists paint. This feels more like terra cotta and it absorbed paint and water the first few layers. I have primed it thinly with white and washed over that with Burnt Umber to bring out the details. I am probably not going to paint it in any orthodox fashion.
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