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Found 400 results

  1. Tarot Card Reader tent & vignette. This is the (2nd) of 7 vignette pieces that will make up the traveling Gypsy market. It is complete except for the base edge ground cover work & the final seal spray of the whole vignette piece...The piece is a (4"x6") vignette built on ceiling tile.
  2. Fortune Teller tent & vignette. This is the (1st) of 7 vignette pieces that will make up the traveling Gypsy market. It is complete except for the base edge ground cover work & the final seal spray of the whole vignette piece...The piece is a (4"x6") vignette built on ceiling tile.
  3. Hi Dibbler...Here are my basic, simple and generic fantasy terrain pieces. On these, I do nothing fancy or no real detail work...We play on a 4x8 table top board that is dark forest green in color...the terrain pieces are placed as designed for the given adventure and/or encounter...everything between the pieces is considered flat green meadow type terrain with no cover & 100% clear (LOS) visibility...Pictured are; 1. Solo shot of ruined building...(I have 5 such boards with varied ruined aspects)... 2. Shot of 4 ruined buildings together to form a sort of ruins complex... 3. Shot of generic terrain pieces of varied sizes & shapes...(I have 30 such pieces and another 12 that are total foliage covered)... 4. Shot of 1 of my generic hills...(this is Fire Hill = View #1)...(I have 6 such hill pieces)... 5. Shot of (Fire Hill = View #2)... So as I said...I do detailed work on projects that deal with my home shire/town...but the rest is basic non-detail generic material and fantasy terrain pieces.
  4. Attempted to make two playing spaces of terrain in two nights for an Infinity tournament at my FLGS. While its not finished by any means I thought I'd share some pictures. To avoid a mile long post, you can find a blow by blow over at my blog. As the great MonkeySloth says, the first step is planning. Went back to my drafting class and made a scale layout. IMG_1843 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Base is 48x48x1/4" plywood. Foam is 1/8" "fan fold" insulation. IMG_1846 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Tunnels in place, starting on side one of the stream. IMG_1849 by LittleRukh, on Flickr At this point it was 3am, good enough for a quick base coat. IMG_1868 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Got out my best brush for this. IMG_1870 by LittleRukh, on Flickr As the FLGS played it. photo (42) by LittleRukh, on Flickr I eventually plan on adding a building to the flat spot on the lower right. The water will get some large rocks for cover. The bridge will get an asphalt road. The hills will get some pipe and other bits of construction stuff. I'm sure some shrubbery will be involved too.
  5. Now accepting suggestions for a better name. Attempted to make two playing spaces of terrain in two nights for an Infinity tournament at my FLGS. While its not finished by any means I thought I'd share some pictures. To avoid a mile long post, you can find a blow by blow over at my blog. Company I work for sells valves for water distribution. They come anywhere from smaller than 1" to larger than 48". A recent batch came in with 1/8" Masonite for protective covers. IMG_1856 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Made some bridges with notches in them so they would secure to the platforms. IMG_1858 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Had some heavy duty cardboard tubes laying around so I made legs to give the appearance of floating/high elevation. IMG_1860 by LittleRukh, on Flickr How I envisioned a partial layout. IMG_1861 by LittleRukh, on Flickr This is what happens when you hand over terrain without instructions. photo (40) by LittleRukh, on Flickr Oh well, they had fun. I hadn't started painting it so no harm done. Right now my plan is to do the underside and legs Chrome. The surface is textured so it will get grey with black wash. I may do some details but my free hand isn't very good.
  6. So, as a surprise and celebration of my Githyanki character finding a proto-spelljammer to work on in our D&D game, my husband gave me the slightly early birthday present* of this resin ship model: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.gelaendestuecke.de/onlineshop/product_info.php%3Finfo%3Dp359_schiffsbausatz-no--2.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dschiffsbausatz%2Bno%2B2%26client%3Dsafari%26hl%3Den I've not worked with resin before, and I haven't done much model building either. The instructions are surprisingly minimalist for a German product (Complete text: "We recommend water-soluble colors and glutens. You find colored examples under www.Gelaendestuecke.de") Can I ask people who have experience with ship models, resin terrain, etc., what they would do? Please forgive my ignorance and inexperience. Here are my thoughts: The stern end, quarterdeck, whatever, has a few dings, chips and bubbles, so I guess I shall be getting some green stuff to fill in bits. There is a hole in the deck piece (a flat piece separate from the hull) for the mast, but it is not as large as the dowels supplied. I plan to drill it out a bit, maybe extend it all the way through the deck (which is about 3/16" thick). I am thinking that not gluing the mast in but making it removable will make for easier storage and less risk of breakage. But in that case I may wish to drill the hole a little into the hull itself for added stability. Or is this foolish and should I just glue the whole thing solidly together? Rigging and sails are not included and it's not entirely clear how they are put together. Can anyone point me to a reasonable pattern? I have linen cloth suitable for the sails and linen bookbinding thread that should do well for miniature rope. Despite what they say, I think I would like to use epoxy to hold this model together. Should I pin it in any way? This looks like it will be fun, but I would like to do it right. Any advice from the seasoned and experienced would be deeply appreciated. *precioussss
  7. ************************** 0215Z MAR 18 78th Legion 19 Maniple Whitewald Outpost 0605 0705 0805 0905 Investigate reports of enemy activity in sector. Check viability of recently acquired Rach CAVs as a recon force. Made contact with an Adon recon unit in the church district. Eliminated threat. Heavy equipment loss sustained. Wyvern, Chancellor, Challenger Sultan It appears they were scouting the area for use as a forward base. (4)CAVs Full loadout Frank Bergmann, Evelyn Azevedo Cavalcanti, Lesław Woźniak, Pauli Sillanpää, Nancy J. Hill, Nives Mađar, Amber Piddington, Aiden BlacketTiamat, Dictator-B, Weasel, Vanquisher Weasel makes for good recon but lacks sufficient strength to engage multiple targets. Dictator-B and Vanquisher preform well in solo and support roles. Tiamat was highly capable but need to work on targeting system as friendlies were caught in strike zones. We came upon the Adon force as they were conducting recon and were able to take up a strategic position. They noticed the Tiamat setting up and began to take cover. The Tiamat provided covering fire while the Weasel, Dictator-B and Vanquisher advanced on their positions. The Vanquisher and Dictator-B moved up to the central building and provided covering fire while the Weasel attempted to make a flank up the left side. The Tiamat was able to heavily damage the Challenger, forcing it back under cover. The Weasel was able to fit through an archway but was unable to locate the damaged Challenger. It's rush left it out in the open and it took heavy fire from the other Adon CAVs. When the Weasel went for cover it stumbled across the Challenger. With heavily damaged systems the Weasel was unable to take on the Challenger even in close combat. The Vanquisher and Dictator-B took advantage of the diversion to move into gun range. The Dictator-B was able to get off several solid shots but was unable to shake the Wyvern's targeting system. The Wyvern and Chancellor rushed the Dictator-B to take it down. The Tiamat tried to provide some covering fire but the CAVs had come in too close and the Dictator-B was caught in the blast. It was still able to take down the Wyvern and Chancellor with help from the Vanquisher. The Challenger had repaired during the firefight and came out from cover and took down the heavily damaged Dictator-B before it could get back to cover. The Vanquisher was able to take out the Challenger but went down to direct fire from the Sultan. The Sultan attempted to get inside the Tiamat's missile range but the Tiamat was able to keep the distance long enough to land to solid salvos bring the Sultan down. All pilots and WOs were able to eject safely and were recovered 2vAQG89YNM49UPqb52N166EZ0RfY1HUK **************************. DISCLAIMER: Reaper was out of some CAVs when we were there. Linkinatutu is using the "new emperor" as the Sultan and the Rhino as the Chancellor. Linkinatutu Blue Ludo Red Before you fight, you must have terrain. Got some of Pegasus Hobby Gothic terrain. Technically its 28mm but I think it looks good with the CAVs. Plus its fun to walk the CAVs under the arches. Setting up. It begins! The top of the cathedral fell off so we left it in place and declared it rough terrain. Weasel down! Sorry for the glare. The final fight. It came down to dice. Don't know why the photos are small but you can click for the full versions.
  8. Prior to my move (in February) I'd stalled out on my last terrain project, a modular space ship built from Hirst Arts blocks that I'm making for a friend. Since then, I've got no mojo for that project, and rather than waste the relatively good weather we've been having, I've been using the time to cast fantasy blocks, particularly from some of the newer molds that i've picked up. The move (from an apartment to a house) means that I've finally got some real space to store terrain projects after they've been built. In addition to building myself a modular fantasy set of cavern and dungeon pieces (a la Dwarven Forge), I've also had a number of building projects that I've wanted to work on. Foremost among those is a wizard's tower for the archmage in my D&D campaign. She is one of only two players who have played the entire 6+ year campaign with the same character. Early on in their career, I used a pre-gen called "An Evening's Entertainment" to introduce a small inn on a trade route. It was close to Halloween, and the adventure was a bit of a suspense/thriller in which a hive of death scarab beetles find their way into the inn through the mushroom caves attached to the back. They slaughter everyone, and leave behind a gory, gruesome scene that the players discover only a short time later. It was one of the most suspense-filled, tension-driven adventures in the campaign, and it left a mark on the players. So much so, that after they'd eradicated the bugs and cleaned up the mess, they installed a family of refugees as the new inn owners, and made it a regular stop in their travels. The wizard was heavily involved in this process, and has talked about using this location for her tower. So, this wizard tower is actually a two-part project. The first will be building the tower; the second will be building the nearby Sign of the Mushroom inn. This will give the rest of the characters a place to stay when visiting her. It also provide me an opportunity to build some underground secret passages that connect the two together, as a secondary means of entrance and egress from the tower. To start, I'm using the 4" and 8" Round Tower molds (#52 and #64 respectively, from Hirst), as well as the Ruined Tower mold (#65). The 8" Round Tower will provide the bulk of the structural blocks for the first few floors of the tower. Between the 4" and the Ruined Tower molds, I get the flooring I want to not have to make a custom floor for the tower. The 4" Round will provide some internal structure on the first floor, and will form the core of the top level of the tower, also granting access to the roof. I will use the decorative pieces (arches and columns) off of the Ruined Tower to provide additional internal structure on the lower levels while still maintining a more open feeling, and open up the top level to create a balcony feeling. The tower will also include a basement. I've decided to go with fieldstone blocks from the Fieldstone Wall and Accessory molds (#70 and #71 respectively) for the walls, and the Flagstone Floor Tile mold (#260) for the floors and ceilings (I'll explain this later). I've opted for a 5"x5" area for the basement with a 1/2" border around it; walls sitting on that border will effectively make this a 6"x6" area. This will create the slightest bit of overhang relative to the tower above it (6"x6" on the hypotenuse = roughly 8.5") but nothing that can't be hidden relatively easily. The basement (and most levels of the tower, for that matter) will be 3" tall. As the floor blocks are only a 1/4" thick, and my walls that stand on them are 2 1/2" tall, I plan to use a 6"x6" grid of Flagstone Floor Tile blocks face down on top of the basement. These will be attached to the first floor of the tower, which will also act as a keyed mechanism for setting the first floor of the tower in place correctly. In addition, the basement will also feature a working secret door, in which a section of the wall will swing out to reveal a passagewar. This passageway will be 2" wide, with a 1/2" border for the walls. It will be the same height, and use inverted Flagstone Floor Tiles for a removeable ceiling for game play. I've cast enough parts from all the mold in question to at least start the project (and perhaps even finish it; we'll see if additional casting is required). I dry-fit peices for the basement yesterday and started glueing up wall sections today. Once they are dry, I'll get some pics added to the thread. ~v
  9. In preparation for incoming wargaming models, I am building up a stockpile of sci-fi terrain. After seeing something like it at a local gaming store, I decided to acquire some 40k vehicles and then destroy them. Unit04 was kind enough to provide me with a supply free of charge. Here is the tank, previous paint job stripped and base coat applied, then glued to a plastic crater. The crater was pre-painted, though I tossed the label so I don't know the brand. I want to apply some severe weathering to this, to make it look like it's been there for a while. Having never done that before, my plan was to do an initial wash of black, then drybrush steel, then do a heavy glaze or wash of brown, followed by red and orange for rust. I'll cover over the hot glue with basing supplies. Any tips or suggestions people have would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I have no idea what kind of weapon hit that tank, but it was SUPER EFFECTIVE.
  10. This is posted mainly for (Darsc Zacal)...a member who suggested that I add an open air market to my (3D) shire. I think that the idea was fantastic and I will be starting work on this shire board piece in the very near future. I just wanted to let him see my art draft concept ideas for the booths that I will be building and the board will be designed as a combination idea of a farmers market & renaissance fair...I do want to give full credit to (Darsc Zacal) for the idea...thank you!
  11. I posted this photo per request of a couple of members who wanted to see the shire pieces all together to see what the shire would look like. Sorry that it took me a while to get to this request. So here are the (9) shire pieces (7 complete & 2 WIP)...as they would look on the tabletop game board. Pictured are as follows from the back row across: 1. Watch tower, mayor cottage, barracks & town hall meeting building. 2. Livery farm & stables. 3. Undertaker & Blacksmith shop & cottage. 4. Barber shoppe & Hot Spring Bath. 5. (EMPTY SQUARE)...Will contain the inn (The Crossed Lances). 6. (EMPTY SQUARE)...Will contain a pond, trees & wooden bridge...(or)...Possible open market square (idea from Darsc Zacal)! 7. Bell/Clock Tower central square. 8. Sporting House, Jail, Sheriff cottage. 9. Pawn shoppe, Rooming House, General Store. 10. Sutter Hotel. 11. Crossroads Shrine & Hilltop well. 12. (EMPTY SQUARE)...Will contain the artist cottage & shoppe & the fortune teller cottage. Once the (12) shire squares are completed...I will start on (spacer terrain squares without buildings to enlarge the shire)...but will contain the connecting roads.
  12. This is the last piece of my (3D) shire that I can show. It is a tabletop game play scratchbuilt terrain piece (16"x14") and features the Sporting House, Sheriff Cottage & Jail...built on my standard ceiling tile base. The photos feature the following: 1. Overview of piece from the top. 2. Overview of piece from corner angle. 3. The balcony view of The Chateau (Sporting House). 4. Side details of (Sporting House). 5. The Sheriff cottage. 6. Small jail house. 7. Young lady on balcony of (Sporting House) doing local advertising. 8. Overall view of piece with game play figures (view 1). 9. Overall view of piece with game play figures (view 2). I hope that you have enjoyed the viewing of the (9) shire game play terrain pieces that I have posted,,,(7) completed & (2) are WIP. Everything else is still in the raw initial stages of buildings being built (not very interesting and boring stuff). I appreciate all the comments and feedback that I received from a number of the members...Thanks loads!
  13. This is another section of my (3D) shire for (RPG) fantasy tabletop gaming. This is the (Hot Springs Bath & Barber Shop)...(16"x14")...scratchbuilt in my standard way using a ceiling tile base...The only thing left to do on this piece is the (water casting...it will be casting resin...on both the water fall & pool water area).
  14. This is a fantasy shire section that is a (WIP)...it will be a tabletop game piece when finished...it is (14"x12") built on a standard ceiling tile base. Pictured are the following buildings: 1. Yankee Trader (a pawn shop). 2. Rooming House (cheap rates). 3. Dragon Shoppe & Bank (general store & bank). 4. Ceiling tile base board with road cut in. 5. General view of how this will look when finished.
  15. This is a tabletop playing piece for my RPG adventure group. It was scratchbuilt out of ceiling tile...the piece is 18" x 10"...the double green fir tree ridge is 7" tall as is the double yellow tree ridge...the dead man ridge is 4" tall...the gully running in the middle is 2" tall. All rocks & rock slabs were cast by me out of plaster. It makes a nice central piece on a wilderness table...the lone dead man offers the chance to find a few gold coins and/or a potion or two (if he hasn't been cleaned out by the time the adventure group finds him).
  16. Here is a link to our latest video showcasing some of the projects that we are currently working on
  17. Trying to get a consensus on how many would be interested in doing a month to month Miniature Exchange. Show of hands, who is interested? It is not required that everyone participates every month, just simply send me a PM stating that you want to participate in the next months exchange. There is no obligation beyond the current months exchange. PM me with Name email shipping address What types of minis you want to do? What types of minis you would like to get? We would like to get things started by the end of the month, we will also be participating ourselves. If you havnt already seen, we are also hosting a miniatures painting contest as well,
  18. http://www.terraclips3d.com/index.php?view=catalog Anyone have any personal experience with this new product from Wyrd Miniatures? Reviews?! I wish they would do a KS for this particular product...and if they already did I'm going to be really bummed.
  19. The 2 week long deepwars KS has started. http://www.kickstart...yss-mini-kicker Wonder if the OP can retitle this thread to be Shadowseas\deepwars as there's no real reason to start a new thread.
  20. These are relatively new and look like a fun choise for undead or other planar creatures.. http://microartstudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20402
  21. Greetings everyone, I was hoping to get everyone's solution for using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water product on your bases. More importantly, I'm hoping to find information about how to keep Realistic Water on a non-recessed base! So what's your secret to keeping the product on there while not getting a funky concave edge or bulges? Or on a round base? Thanks in advance for your help!
  22. Hi all, I just wanted to let everybody know about a new minis Kickstarter that just launched yesterday: http://www.kickstart...-tidal-wave-dcm For the initial goal, they're doing a pirate/water themed set that includes some male and female human pirates, a mermaid and a huge water elemental. They're being produced in both prepainted and unpainted versions, so there's a lot of flexibility. They have stretch goals planned as well, but haven't said what they are. I have their earlier sets, so I can vouch for the quality of the work they do. Judging by the icons they're using for stretch goals, there may be some terrain (huts, wagons, etc.) on the horizon in addition to the regular figs. Anyway, there it is. I figured that Reaper Kickstarter backers might want to take a look...
  23. Kit said I should introduce myself so here goes, I or should I say we , are a small group of gamers that are in the development phase of a new kind of modular terrain for use in any game system that uses minis, we will offer our terrain in every scale we can produce it in. As of right now we are designing for six different genres, Fantasy, Sci-Fi, Steampunk, Horror, Urban zombie apocalypse, and Ancient Rome. We are seeking the involvement from the miniatures gaming community to help us produce a line of terrain that is truly designed with gamers in mind. Please send us any questions , concerns, ideas, or advice you may have. Yesterday we released issue 01 of our terrain newsletter, in it you can find info about the terrain we are designing, what you can do to help, info about contests we are holding and much more to come. If you are not a subscriber it is not too late. SUBSCRIBE today by sending an email to [email protected] About the contests: ~The mini painting contest will be a recurring type contest scheduled for twice a month. ~Entry is absolutely free, all that we require for entry is your Name and email address Submission Rules ~ Submissions must be painted by you, no outsourcing please ~ You may only submit one entry for your submission ~ A entry may consist of any miniature that fits into the current theme. ~ Limit your submission to 5 or less images. ~All submissions should be made through a facebook message or via ouremail listed above. Reaping the rewards ~ whomever wins the bi-monthly contest will get their miniature and a short bio featured on our facebook page and in our newsletter in the miniatures section. ~ All winners will also receive a voucher for free terrain , which will be delivered after production before it becomes available to the public The theme and cutoff date ~ For the first theme we will be doing " A gnome illusionist of evil alignment " This is to be a miniature to represent the tavern owner from our article " A brief introduction to the tavern and its owner" which you will find in the image of our first newsletter below ~ The cutoff date to submit for entry into the contest will be August 30th @ 11:59 PM Pacific Standard Time To find pictures and more information be sure to visit us at: http://www.facebook....tpropelledgames Feel free to message us via: http://twitter.com/RPGstandard Best Regards and happy painting, Rocket Propelled Games [email protected]
  24. Let's add some stuff to the Terrain forum. Here are a couple of tree terrain models: a fallen tree and a group of chopped trees. Both of them are easy terrain models made with real wood, just glued to the bases and inked to add texture. The fallen tree is based on an old CD (an easy and non-bendable base). The chopped trees may be used on their own as an ex-forest or added to a bigger non-chopped forest to add variety.
  25. Fellow Crafters! Direct Your Browser Here: http://thebrokeassgamers.com/ We Are Doing Some Down Right Awesome Stuff In Central Texas! Hi, I'm the site artist/ editor, I'm really kind of new to terrain crafting, They call me Niz, I had some crafting experience in adolescence but then life happened. Over the years I have continued to make found object, digital art and paintings but it wasn't till recently I got back into miniatures, with a few friends, we have begun to build this site. I recently made a really nice piece from some scrap plastic, and used Reaper paints which, must be admitted, found to yeild more than the GW paints when it came to flow and pigment. You've found a new customer! Take a click, and a look, find Us on Twitter and FaceBook! Any advice, pointers or tips would be greatly appreciated!
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