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  1. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/152909942/3d-printable-tombstone-models-tabletop-gaming-28-3?ref=category_newest&ref=discovery About I am creating Game Assets for different Game Engines like Unity3D and Unreal Engine. I love tabletop fantasy and war gaming miniature gaming. And because 3D Printing is the future of Tabletop gaming I want to help you to get an easy start in that future. Here I bring you a set of 24 Tombstone Models for your tabletop gaming. Tombstone Set Tombstone Set Destroyed Tombstone Set
  2. Okay, so I've been trying to cobble together some ideas for adventures to run at Necronomicon 2018. For me, the process of kit-bashing the minis and assembling the scenery goes hand-in-hand with writing up my adventures. I might be inspired to tweak the pre-gen character set based on a figure (e.g., he's got a gun in each hand, so Ambidextrous and Two-Fisted would be ideal Edges for Savage Worlds stats). I'm also likely to stage the big action in such a way that I actually have supporting terrain -- and I want to have some nice scenery to put out as the "showcase" on the table before the ga
  3. One of my newer pieces. Been having a play with a couple of corrugating tools and a baked bean tin. Really enjoy making these things, just need a bigger house to store them in.
  4. For a change, I'm actually getting to PLAY, rather than be the GM: one of my veteran players is taking over in order to run a Pathfinder RPG campaign -- the "Kingmaker" campaign - -while I take something of a break. However, I can't just take a break completely, so even though the GM has a bunch of pre-painted Pathfinder and D&D minis at the ready for the campaign, and is using printed battle maps, I have been focusing on kit-bashing and painting minis for the PCs (and eventually whatever companions and cohorts they pick up on the way). Recently, the adventurers acquired a wag
  5. Finally starting to make headway on KS3! Having kids, mirite?
  6. After I started working on my Soviet Russian girls, I soon noticed that I missed some usable terrain. So it was time for me to start making some. I checked my stuff and ... unfortunately I didn't have got any usable terrain. But I had some 28mm Warhammer 40k barrels and boxes. So ... what to do with those? ... Luckily I am a person full of ideas and dreams and melancholy. So I remembered back in the days when I was young, I played a game called "Blitzkrieg". "Blitzkrieg" was a lovely game using a lovely graphic engine for
  7. The next project should be a bit easier than the ships. Have brought 3 boxes of cardboard letters from Aldi. They are on sale and were part of their middle isle wedding stationery promotion. They spell "L OV E" not "F I R S T T R Y". The idea is to make a temple wall complex/ set of sewer walls / set of docks. When stacked together these are 5cm high, 20cm long and 15cm wide. I wanted some terrain that was modular, stackable, and tall enough to block line of site. Also that models could be pushed off. I cut and stuck the L and the E together to make a "C"
  8. I made these primitive runestones in Blender and printed them on my little 3d printer. I thought the first one was a bit boring, so I added a bunch of skulls around the base of the second for that cannibal-headhunter vibe. They're on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010064 The miniature is from Reaper, the figure I use to represent my oldest (surviving) D&D character from back in 1981, Smirnoff the Huge and Ugly. There was one earlier character from my very first roleplaying session, but I don't even remember his name — he was blown to smithereens in that same sessio
  9. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/548467345/drakenstone-magnetic-modular-castle-terrain?ref=discovery# About My name is Andy, and I've been building miniature fantasy terrain since the 1980s. I have used my hand-made magnetic modular terrain for Dungeon Escape and Legendary Arena Battles at Eye of the Beholder Gaming Guild in Taylor, MI. My prototype pieces are on display at Acropolis Games in Adrian, and Get Your Game On in Ann Arbor. Many players have asked how they can take home magnetic terrain pieces to continue their adventure at home. I use Hirst Arts
  10. Here's my work on the "Tablescapes Dungeons-Mines" set from Secret Weapon Miniatures. The Goblins are all from "The Hobbit: Escape from Goblin Town" set, and the Dwarves are mixed manufacturer. I just wanted to give it a little character...or some little characters.
  11. That right guys and gals their not just for wedding cakes ... I like to fill mine with expanding foam (when I have a few foam projects lined up, the can of foam never works for me later so it's a use it or lose it) chop em up (once dry) and butter the ends with something rough and stout (I used flexall) ... a few examples from a city set I was working on before I moved (still unfinnished) ... cities abound in hard cover so it's mostly for looks, nice looks but looks ... in a jungle or desert set it's a great way to add hard cover and have an overgrown lost temple (jun
  12. I'll edit this once I switch from my phone to my PC. Edit: OK, I got these just last week but I wanted to use them at the Origins Game Fair in Columbus, OH, June 14-17, so I got to work the day they arrived and started washing them with dish soap and hot water. I couldn't wait for them to dry so I started designing the layout while they were still wet! Next day I glued them in place. They are mounted on expanded foam insulation, this particular brand comes in 1/2 inch thickness, 14.5 by 48 inches. It is used to go between 2x4 wall studs, hence the odd width. Any wa
  13. Have put together some rough ground by sticking some resin basing bits from Scibor ("elven ruins") with foam off cuts and rocks from other models. Then just started painting the whole thing as basically a rockery. The idea is to add a bit of snow effect, and some lichen etc or trees when it is on the table. I have then started on a set of ruined buildings for Frostgrave. These are just foam pieces rolled with a green stuff world roller and stuck onto a wooden orange box left over from Christmas. As I shop at over priced supermarkets this was made out of some quite serviceable MDF/
  14. Inspired by getting the docks done I did some more work on an unfinished watchtower project. It is a hexagonal pencil pot that I sawed in half. I put in balsa supports then layered coffee stirrers for the roof. To defend it I have added foam core board annexes either side of the door. I need to figure out how to do a lip all around the upper part (which will lift off) to disguise the joins. For the door I am probably just going to stick some magnetic material to the back of a couple of one sided resin doors so there can be a broken and unbroken option. Will paint
  15. I put together this Barrow from xps foam and a decopage cardboard treasure chest lid. I used a greenstuff world roller to texture the doorway and landing outside. It is all stuck together with super glue. I was keen to make sure that there were flat areas for based minis in the front and at the rear. My minor mistake was making the rear plinth/hill a bit too narrow after sticking on the rear wall section, hence cutting out a slit. When all the glue has dried I will prime it with a mix of mod podge and black paint. Then I will flock the top. I need to decide whether to
  16. This is a mastaba, "Egyptian Tomb IWS-EGY-011," from Itar's Workshop and two identical columns, I'm not sure where from. The old Ral Partha mindflayer and Reaper's Merith of the Flame are included for scale. "Mastaba" is a comparatively modern Arabic word meaning "bench." The original Egyptian hieroglyphs read "pr-djt" or "pr-djed" and meant "house of the afterlife." The hieroglyphs are gibberish (some are even sideways), which bugs me in a minor way. Just as a side note, the mastaba is hollow with a reinforcing partition in the middle. I lined it with green
  17. Frulla Krung The Frost Giantess Frulla Krung was chosen as the next project by popular vote on the forums. The miniature was sculpted by Sandra Garrity and the base was composed of a piece of slate, sand, ballast, and bark. You can see for yourself in the WIP post. The miniature is depicted as a frost giant so I gave her blue skin and instead of a classic blond look as most seem to get, I decided to keep hers dark blue. For the eyes I went with a bright grey iris to make them creepy, intense and stand out. She's clothed in the latest fashion of yellow fur trimming a classic leather bi
  18. About main logo We're building a set of modular ruins for use with miniatures, ranging from a simple basic set of tumble-down walls to a whole cityscape of multiple levels, alleyways and rooftops. Together with Italian scenery sculptor The Lazy Forger we're hoping to improve on and add to our basic prototype set so that you can represent as much or as little as you need for your players in their overground adventures. Need a few brokendown walls? Rubble City will let you build many different setups from one kit. Want a gaming cupboard full of permanent structures
  19. About Welcome to Undead Graveyard! These graveyard elements add a thematic scenery to a simple board, with high quality resin pieces. In an easy and fun way you can turn any board into your private graveyard of the Undead Realms with our tombstones. This set is composed of 20 different tombstones models. They are ideal to decorate any playing surface or create dioramas and give life to your darkest ideas! This set is composed of 20 different tombstones models with an older style, half buried in the ground. They are ideal to
  20. This is my latest terrain piece for my tabletop games, a small gorge. It's about 300 x 150 mm, and at its deepest the gorge is about 30 mm deep. It's not wide enough for vehicles in any scale larger than 6mm or 10-12mm. Maybe a jeep in 15mm, certainly nothing larger. There's just enough of a bend in it that you can't see right through from end to end. I suspect that the rock formations would make geologists clench their fists and grind their teeth, but fortunately, I'm not a geologist.
  21. About How Did this start? So My Son, (7 at the time), enjoyed playing Vault manager, and one holiday he asked me If I could build him a vault to play with. So we sat down and drew up some designs, and then I sat down and did up the files, furiously prototyped, cut and amended the designs. Eventually I ended up with a corridor set that set up on a 4' x 4' board. I put it up on the BPLASER store and people seemed to like it. Fast forward 12 months, and I decided to expand the Corridor set with another 15 rooms, furniture and inserts, and put it up on Kickstarter to see i
  22. Recently I started playing Frostgrave Ghost Archipelago so my need for terrain has increased. One particular scenario in the rulebook caught my creative attention. It calls for a watchtower, so I figured I'd try my hand at building one. For the record this will be my first piece of terrain. I wasn't sure how I was going to build this piece and what exactly I was going to use. I remembered I had a leftover square "dowel" from when I built measurement sticks for Song of Blades and Heroes and I figured they would make pretty good supports for my tower. After deciding to use the dowel
  23. Started building a Kulathi battle force and colony outpost for their Kuden-3 outpost, in the Beehive star cluster, in the crab nebula ... Having 3 fingers a hand and 6 limbs the number system fore the Kulathi is based on 6 ... with 2,3 and 4 also prominent, so I based there units on 6 ... An officer (2 pistols = smg) 3 left hand smg and 2 right hand automatic rifles make a strike team ... no other unit types teams can exceed the number of strike teams. The fire team has 1 officer 1 smg and 4 auto rifles ... a longer ranged bite. I'm also adding
  24. So, I'm about to start working on making some 3D bases of my own for my dragons (and hubby's too)... Anyone have any pointers or tips on particular putted to use when coating stuff like cork to add more detail, or would there be much of a difference between say Milliput, greenstuff, or other things? I ask as terrain generally doesn't require as much detail as a mini would, but it never hurts to get a few more opinions. I do have greenstuff atm (and Aves Apoxie if this supplier I'm trying to buy some from sends me an invoice ), and might be ordering some other stuff, hence why
  25. Have been stealing coffee stirrers for a while and thought I should disguise them. This is a modular set of docks for pirate settings/City docks, ghost archipelago. All I did was make platforms of various heights with layers of foam core board. Then Iaid cross pieces and laid the decks on top, just using different thicknesses of coffee stirrers. The stanchions are just pva glued to the side of the foam core, under the decks rather than showing above them. I painted the foam core black and am painting the wood using the Crafting Muse video on YouTube as a guide. I won't be basing t
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