Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Terrain'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Reaper Discussion
    • News
    • Reaper General & Faq's
    • Reaper's Product Lines
    • ReaperCon
    • Reaper Virtual Expo
  • Reaper Social
    • Exchanges and Contests
    • Birthdays!
    • Socializing
  • Painting
    • Show Off: Painting
    • Works in Progress: Painting
    • Tips & Advice: Painting
    • Shutterbug
    • Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques
  • Sculpting, Conversion, and Terrain
    • Show off: Sculpts, Conversion, Terrain.
    • Works in Progress: Sculpts, Conversion, Terrain.
    • Tips and Advice: Sculpting
    • Tips and Advice: Conversion
    • Tips and Advice: Terrain
    • Tips and Advice: 3-D printing
    • Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
  • General Discussion
    • General Fantasy
    • General Sci-Fi
    • General Modern / Historical
    • Kickstarter
    • Off-Topic Rampancy
  • The Sandbox
    • The Gathering
    • The Playing
    • Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses
  • Reaper Games
    • CAV
    • Warlord

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. I put together this Barrow from xps foam and a decopage cardboard treasure chest lid. I used a greenstuff world roller to texture the doorway and landing outside. It is all stuck together with super glue. I was keen to make sure that there were flat areas for based minis in the front and at the rear. My minor mistake was making the rear plinth/hill a bit too narrow after sticking on the rear wall section, hence cutting out a slit. When all the glue has dried I will prime it with a mix of mod podge and black paint. Then I will flock the top. I need to decide whether to make this snowy or green. I think that snow will cover more model making sins...
  2. This is my latest terrain piece for my tabletop games, a small gorge. It's about 300 x 150 mm, and at its deepest the gorge is about 30 mm deep. It's not wide enough for vehicles in any scale larger than 6mm or 10-12mm. Maybe a jeep in 15mm, certainly nothing larger. There's just enough of a bend in it that you can't see right through from end to end. I suspect that the rock formations would make geologists clench their fists and grind their teeth, but fortunately, I'm not a geologist.
  3. About main logo We're building a set of modular ruins for use with miniatures, ranging from a simple basic set of tumble-down walls to a whole cityscape of multiple levels, alleyways and rooftops. Together with Italian scenery sculptor The Lazy Forger we're hoping to improve on and add to our basic prototype set so that you can represent as much or as little as you need for your players in their overground adventures. Need a few brokendown walls? Rubble City will let you build many different setups from one kit. Want a gaming cupboard full of permanent structures for treasure-seeking adventurers? Rubble City does that too. Whether you're playing D&D, Frostgrave, Mordheim, Confrontation, or any miniatures-based wargame, these resin ruins will fit the bill. The Rubble City basic set contains 21 resin pieces scaled for 28-32mm models but easily repurposed with minor effort to suit smaller and larger scales. The basic set is enough to create roughly a 7" cube of ruins and the modular jigsaw design allows a wide variety of layouts just from one set. Rubble City basic set Combine two or more sets, however, and you can really start to build your imagination. Add pieces from the expansion sets and any additional Unlocks and the possibilities become almost endless ! Corners on the main pieces of Rubble City feature an interlocking jigsaw joint allowing multiple build options. Additionally, Rubble City is designed with post holes so you can add your own custom-made floors, and with door and window holes to allow whatever level of detailing you desire. If we can unlock them, stretch goals will add resin doors, windows, staircases, floors, ladders, roofs and more ! Building with the basic set. Stacking walls and adding floors. We've made sure that there's loads of detail and texture crammed into each master model and our casting process preserves all of that detail faithfully. Cast in a stone-filled grey resin the castings are stonelike-enough in appearance to be used straight from the box but will obviously benefit from being painted. The following pictures show just how good the castings look with a simple paint process of undercoat - basecoat - colour wash - drybrush, and the addition of flock, static grass, and other model planting improves their appearance even more. You can leave the resin pieces unassembled for maximum replayability - building a different layout every time - or assemble them more permanently with superglue ( and a little filler around finger joints ) before painting and leaving them based or unbased according to your preference.
  4. About How Did this start? So My Son, (7 at the time), enjoyed playing Vault manager, and one holiday he asked me If I could build him a vault to play with. So we sat down and drew up some designs, and then I sat down and did up the files, furiously prototyped, cut and amended the designs. Eventually I ended up with a corridor set that set up on a 4' x 4' board. I put it up on the BPLASER store and people seemed to like it. Fast forward 12 months, and I decided to expand the Corridor set with another 15 rooms, furniture and inserts, and put it up on Kickstarter to see if I could expand sales. The Corridor Set is a: multi gaming system, fully modular set of laser cut/ etched MDF terrain, for use with 28-32mm table top games. Each unit piece is a multi part kit made from Australian manufactured MDF, with the approx strength of the same thickness of pine board, which should give years of use. The modularity of the corridor set allows you to make unique table layouts every time you use it. Every piece will connect to any other piece letting you decide how large, or how small to make your battlefield. Vault, Spaceship or Corridor set. I have tried, in the design of the set, to make it as functional as possible, so the Corridor Set can be used to represent the interior of a spaceship, a fallout shelter, An evil scientist's lair, a military bunker,.... the list goes on. Using the many add-ons to the base set, you can make almost any scenario that comes to mind. I hope you will find it an interesting set, and battleground, and give a multitude of ideas in its set-up. INTERNATIONAL POSTAGE. PLEASE READ. I am in Brisbane, Australia. That's 11500 km from Los Angeles, and 16500 km from London. Shipping via ship from Australia takes 2-3 months and costs about $95 AUD for the base set. Airmail takes 5-10 days and costs approx $120 AUD for the base set. I have chosen Airmail as the most efficient and reliable method for you getting your gear. All parcels will be provided with a tracking number. ADD ONS. Postage will be calculated at approx $5 per item set, or room set that you add to your main pledge. This will mean that international postage is at a discounted rate. Backers from all other countries (Rest of the world) may have to pay additional import duties and other applicable taxes to the concerned authorities, upon receipt of their goods, based on the import policies of their respective countries. The duties and tax rates vary from country to country and we are unable to help you determine that for your shipment. If you wish to learn about the duties and taxes applicable to your shipment, you may want to check with the customs and border protection authority of your country. What's in the set: The following are some pics of the addons to the set. I will update them with painted versions in the next few days DOOR SET WITH BULKHEAD HATCH END CAP WITH BULKHEAD HATCH DOOR SET STANDARD FORCE DOOR SECURITY SHIELD
  5. For a change, I'm actually getting to PLAY, rather than be the GM: one of my veteran players is taking over in order to run a Pathfinder RPG campaign -- the "Kingmaker" campaign - -while I take something of a break. However, I can't just take a break completely, so even though the GM has a bunch of pre-painted Pathfinder and D&D minis at the ready for the campaign, and is using printed battle maps, I have been focusing on kit-bashing and painting minis for the PCs (and eventually whatever companions and cohorts they pick up on the way). Recently, the adventurers acquired a wagon after defeating a bunch of bandits. It was a wagon in pretty sad shape, but they fixed it up, and hitched up a couple of horses "liberated" from the bandits. This has made it a lot easier to tend to their assigned task of exploring an area known as the "Greenbelt" -- hunting down monsters (or, in the case of the kobolds, making peace with them), and dealing with rampant banditry. From left to right (rear row):* Human Paladin Sir Greys (Reaper #77197, "Erick Paladin Initiate")* Elven Kineticist Selana Kelsa (Reaper #77036, "Devona Female Wizard")* Gnomish Rogue Lis (composite of old Mage Knight miniature pieces)* Grippli Oracle Chirp Meadowsong (Reaper #77165, "Hellakin Goregutter," with head swap from Reaper #77268, "Squog Warriors")* Kitsune Magus Yuri (Reaper #77473, "Kogo Male Kitsune")* Half-Orc Sorcerer Gruush (Mage Knight Minions #065 "Medicine Troll")Foreground:* Human Warden* [spell-less Ranger variant] Rook Greys (Reaper #77320, "Galadanoth Elf Sniper")The horses are a couple of plastic Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy Battle horses (presumably from some sort of Empire set). I had some "bitz boxes" out in the garage that I picked up at a game bazaar, including several horses -- either on sprues, or with badly-mangled partly assembled riders stuck to them with overly-caked glue. I tried assembling a few and "dismounting" a couple more. The two pictured are just two I randomly picked out for the picture. (I figured there wasn't much sense in just taking pictures of the horses, since none of them are Reaper; they all need saddles and such.) The wagon has wheels, cabinets, lanterns, keg, and crates/barrels of Hydrocal castings done with Hirst Arts Castlemolds. The rest of the wagon is made up of wooden craft sticks (a mix of "popsicle sticks" and "matchsticks"), plus a couple of plastic head-pieces that someone had trimmed off of some Warhammer Fantasy dwarven mining carts for some purpose, and a random plastic shield hung on the side to show the heraldry for "Erastil" (since at least two members of the party -- the Greys cousins -- are followers of Erastil). I used some epoxy putty to add a cushioned seat for the driver's bench. I hope to personalize the wagon more as the campaign goes along -- adding trophies, maybe even some more shields or banners with heraldry of the rest of the party, or perhaps even a top for the wagon (if we can afford it, and get it done somehow back at the trading post). I'm also working on some pieces to represent an adventurer campsite, but they need a little bit more work before I bother taking a photo. (I tried making some tents with paper, and some others with putty. Results were ... mixed.) I suppose that's another thing I could imagine being useful from Bones: an "adventurer tent" (maybe even make it hollow), a "bedroll," and some sort of campfire (in translucent yellow or orange?): bonus points if it has a suspended kettle or a spit over it. Beds and shelves are great for dungeons, but some scenes happen while the PCs are traveling and their camp gets ambushed by monsters out in the woods. Or maybe the PCs are the ones doing the ambushing! :)
  6. That right guys and gals their not just for wedding cakes ... I like to fill mine with expanding foam (when I have a few foam projects lined up, the can of foam never works for me later so it's a use it or lose it) chop em up (once dry) and butter the ends with something rough and stout (I used flexall) ... a few examples from a city set I was working on before I moved (still unfinnished) ... cities abound in hard cover so it's mostly for looks, nice looks but looks ... in a jungle or desert set it's a great way to add hard cover and have an overgrown lost temple (jungle) or lost oasis side ruins (desert) ... it's a simple and straight forward technique to add just the right sized cover in just about any table set you got ... I got a large bag of them fairly cheap at a craft store (Michesls) a great value for the buck. P.S. the Grey rubble is old model sprew rum through an old hand crank meat grinder ... who knew modeling could be so much fun !
  7. Started building a Kulathi battle force and colony outpost for their Kuden-3 outpost, in the Beehive star cluster, in the crab nebula ... Having 3 fingers a hand and 6 limbs the number system fore the Kulathi is based on 6 ... with 2,3 and 4 also prominent, so I based there units on 6 ... An officer (2 pistols = smg) 3 left hand smg and 2 right hand automatic rifles make a strike team ... no other unit types teams can exceed the number of strike teams. The fire team has 1 officer 1 smg and 4 auto rifles ... a longer ranged bite. I'm also adding a few hound of Tindalos units (4 with 1 smg and 1 officer kulathi) with bigger things in the works ...
  8. Inspired by getting the docks done I did some more work on an unfinished watchtower project. It is a hexagonal pencil pot that I sawed in half. I put in balsa supports then layered coffee stirrers for the roof. To defend it I have added foam core board annexes either side of the door. I need to figure out how to do a lip all around the upper part (which will lift off) to disguise the joins. For the door I am probably just going to stick some magnetic material to the back of a couple of one sided resin doors so there can be a broken and unbroken option. Will paint or stick on the other doors and arrow slits. I haven't put it on a hill, wanted it to be versatile so a fairly limited wooden base. Will landscape it but keep it relatively flat. Will also add the ability to stick in artillery, I have the dwarf organ gun from Mantic and think that would be ideal as a 'deck gun'.
  9. Have been stealing coffee stirrers for a while and thought I should disguise them. This is a modular set of docks for pirate settings/City docks, ghost archipelago. All I did was make platforms of various heights with layers of foam core board. Then Iaid cross pieces and laid the decks on top, just using different thicknesses of coffee stirrers. The stanchions are just pva glued to the side of the foam core, under the decks rather than showing above them. I painted the foam core black and am painting the wood using the Crafting Muse video on YouTube as a guide. I won't be basing these. The boat is a lucky find. It is a decoupage model ocean liner. I cut the top off and had a curved boat shape 15cm / 6" long and perfect for 8 models. Only £1.25 on sale. All I did was lay a deck of coffee stirrers then took some of the bits I cut off and glued them back on to the sides. Painted like the Dock. I don't want to add seats, mast, similar detail to this model to maximise how many based minis can stand in it.
  10. About A ground-breaking tabletop building system, made of durable, highly detailed, precise laser cut MDF and grey board. All buildings come ready to use, no glue required. THIS IS NOT A KIT! This unique system for 28mm tabletop games and RPG's uses strong earth magnets to attach the building exteriors (skins) to a base box. Construction couldn't be simpler! The magnetic system means the buildings can be easily and quickly assembled, disassembled and reassembled over and over in various combinations. PLAY Not only can you change skins to create different building combinations from within a range, you can also select skins from other ranges depending on the game or period you wish to play. This cross-game terrain system means you can build a Wild West town one evening, then just by changing the skins on the base box, a fantasy village for a wargame the next. PLAY All skins are pre-assembled and designed to flat-pack away. This makes transportation much easier and considerably cuts down storage needed, keeping everyone happy. What's more, your base box can be used as storage for your figures and other gaming elements, such as dice and tokens.
  11. After I started working on my Soviet Russian girls, I soon noticed that I missed some usable terrain. So it was time for me to start making some. I checked my stuff and ... unfortunately I didn't have got any usable terrain. But I had some 28mm Warhammer 40k barrels and boxes. So ... what to do with those? ... Luckily I am a person full of ideas and dreams and melancholy. So I remembered back in the days when I was young, I played a game called "Blitzkrieg". "Blitzkrieg" was a lovely game using a lovely graphic engine for displaying things. And they had this wonderful supply depot, which I think would be perfect First off I have have to prepare some boxes to later have a good foundation for the blanket. ... which ended in in looking like this: Time to paint!
  12. Recently I started playing Frostgrave Ghost Archipelago so my need for terrain has increased. One particular scenario in the rulebook caught my creative attention. It calls for a watchtower, so I figured I'd try my hand at building one. For the record this will be my first piece of terrain. I wasn't sure how I was going to build this piece and what exactly I was going to use. I remembered I had a leftover square "dowel" from when I built measurement sticks for Song of Blades and Heroes and I figured they would make pretty good supports for my tower. After deciding to use the dowel it didn't take much thought to realize I was going to make this piece out of toothpicks and popsicle sticks. Now I had to make a decision, would I build a ladder or a series of ramps? If I understand the rules of the game carrying a treasure halves your movement, climbing also halves your movement, and they stack. So if there is a treasure at the top of the tower (which the scenario calls for) it'll take a couple turns to climb down. With this in mind I opted for a series of ramps and platforms instead (my failed attempt at making a siege ladder also reinforced this idea). My watchtower so far. My failed attempt at a ladder. The platforms I decided to go with. The first ramp. I originally lumped this project in with my regular painting thread but I thought it deserved it's own thread (it is terrain after all), so here it is.
  13. Decided to put together a little farmstand scene for a basing project. Split pieces of balsa wood to give a rough lumber approach, now I'm considering how to do painting/sealing on it, as I have minimal experience w Balsa. Want to keep all that little wood grain that popped up when I split them visible. Going to paint it slightly darker with acrylic browns, and then some slightly darker spots and lighter drybrush highlights to accentuate the grain. Should I gesso, or stain the balsa before working on it? Can I just work straight on it and seal it with a varnish afterwards? Any balsa wood experience/suggestions appreciated.
  14. So, I'm about to start working on making some 3D bases of my own for my dragons (and hubby's too)... Anyone have any pointers or tips on particular putted to use when coating stuff like cork to add more detail, or would there be much of a difference between say Milliput, greenstuff, or other things? I ask as terrain generally doesn't require as much detail as a mini would, but it never hurts to get a few more opinions. I do have greenstuff atm (and Aves Apoxie if this supplier I'm trying to buy some from sends me an invoice ), and might be ordering some other stuff, hence why I'm curious. Love greenstuff for stamped or rolled bases, and gap filling (I suspect when I try sculpting I'll like it too, I'm enjoying how it behaves now that I've had a bit of time using it for gap filling and bases), but naturally I'm open to other options too.
  15. About This project is to fund the production of a set of cast table top gaming terrain pools. This is a continuation and expansion of this line. This time I am offering pools in 25mm, 50mm, and 100+ mm sizes. Offerings will be available as cast pieces in Dental Stone, or Plaster. Dental Stone pieces are available as painted and finished or unpainted and unfinished pieces. Here are a few examples of the prototypes: 50mm Blue, finished. 50mm Green prototype. 50mm Red Prototype. 25mm More 25mm Prototypes.
  16. As mentioned on my previous post, that as aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the second one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Portal or Statuary Base Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  17. As an aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the first one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  18. About NEW Bantam Alley is a project for everyone that loves beautiful, really fine details in wargaming projects. Is for all novice and advanced: gamers, miniature painters, terrain makers, dioramas builders, modelers, collectors and other hobbyists. This is post-apocalyptic city 28-32mm scale elements. Finest details, handmade resin casts scatter scenery terrain, prototypes build from scratch and bits elements made from 3d prints original models. Our details are designed and created by us in the small but professional workshop. Note! that all products packshots are photos, not a computer renders. Epic, unique designs terrain and bits Up to 0,0025cm 3D detail level Fine quality handmade resin casts Elements like this is not available on the market Created by enthusiasts for enthusiasts Only your imagination is limit to use them Resin bits casts come unpainted. Scatter scenery unpainted or painted, as you wish. Your elements casts will arrive in collective box design. It will be made out of eco-friendly cardboard but we hope it will last longer and be your chest for goodies. All will be a cool supplement for your wargame universe, homemade terrain, diorams, tactical objectives, miniature bases and much much more. Definitely fits to: Zombicide, The Walking Dead, Necromunda, Fallout: Wasteland Warfare, Warhammer 40K, Warzone, Batman Miniature Game and many other systems. We are StudioLevel and we believe that your wargaming & miniature painting hobbies can be taken to the next level. We make our products superbly designed. We create terrains and bits. We are friends! Sebastian - project warboss :D, creative freelance wargaming terrain designer and maker. His work is his hobby. Miniatures collector. Painting and converting lover. Occasionally gamer. Tomek - 3D generalist freelancer, movie maker and nature photography enthusiast with a unuttered passion to create new worlds and learn new things. We are completing each other ways of creating. One perfectionist artist, very passionate and technician, very focused and calm, although we are both punctilious and have keen eyes to details. So before you start scrolling and find out what we prepared for you check many good opinions from selected masterminds of the wargaming world and hear what they have to say about it on the occasion first funding unsuccessfull KS campaign ;) more reviews
  19. I always found deserts to be fascinating habitats. A cursory look will leave you with the impression that it is hell on earth: sandstorms, unbearable heat during the day and freezing at nighttime. Yet, the desert is not only home to thousands of plant and animal species, it also has a simple beauty to it, dominated by the shapes the wind forms. They are thus a worthy subject for the modeler and can provide an atmospheric backdrop for our games. The exploits of the Crusaders come to mind as well as the cultures inhabiting Northern Africa, for instance the ancient Numidians. I made a number of arid terrain pieces, but this time I will show you two desert lakes or oases that are slowly drying out. Using a similar technique I also built a partially dry river bed, with only a small stream of water remaining. I will provide you with short step-by-step instructions how to make a cracked lake or river bed, but if you want to know more you can also check out a longer tutorial on my blog (given this is not a full tutorial here I put it in the show off section). The build is pretty straight forward: 1. First we use XPS or foam board to define the lake bed. 2. We apply the crackle paste. 3. We cover everything with filler or modelling paste 4. We embed the magnets/steel tacks. 5. We add sand and animal tracks. 6. We apply a basecoat and drybrush. 7. We add some brushes and a water effect. 8. We make the barren tree and add it as a final touch. A more detailed how-to can be found on DaggerAndBrush: https://daggerandbrush.wordpress.com/2018/01/19/mirage-making-a-dry-desert-lake-or-oasis/
  20. I'm trying out another river segment, built in pretty much the same way as my first one, but this time I'm using a a material that is new to me, SculptaMold from Amaco. I saw it used on Luke's APS on Youtube and liked the look of it, so I popped down and bought a bag from Gordon Harris art supplies. It cost me about twenty-two bucks for about 1.3 kg, which should be enough to do a reasonable amount of terrain. It would probably get a bit pricey if you wanted to build a whole table, but for my purposes it's OK. It's a plaster and paper (?) fibre mix; I don't know if there's anything else in there. Depending on the amount of water you use it can be mixed to a cottage cheese-like paste, as I've used it here, or to a more liquid slurry that can be cast in rubber moulds. It sets up more slowly than plain plaster; by the time I'd finished laying out the river banks and setting in all the gravel, it was still quite workable, so I slapped together a little rocky outcrop on a plastic cutting board, using some bits of pine bark and the left-over goop from the river banks. I wasn't really keeping track of time, but I'd guess that you probably have 15 to 20 minutes of working time, which is plenty for most things. When it's wet, it retains a quite knobbly cottage cheese texture, which is fine if it's going to be under flock and stuff. If you want a smoother finish though, just leave it for about another ten minutes or quarter of an hour to stiffen up a bit, and then it can be smoothed with wet fingers or modelling tools, or just with a wet soft brush. It's early days yet, but at first acquaintance I think I'm going to like it.
  21. Something that's missing from my gaming terrain collection are bodies of water, so I thought I'd better make some. Unlike roads, a river can't really just start or stop in the middle of the board, so I'll need enough pieces to cover about a two and a half metre length, enough to go from end to end of my table. This is the test piece, trying out methods and colours. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but I feel that it's lacking something and I'm not quite sure what it is. Perhaps it's that everything is quite even in height, so there's no drama of composition. The base is 3mm MDF, sealed with black spray primer, and the banks were built up with Das air-drying clay. The rocks are just bits of gravel. The grass is several colours of sawdust flock, and the taller vegetation is foam clump foliage. The water itself is just three or four coats of acrylic gloss medium brushed over paint, with various depths indicated by lighter or darker tones. I didn't want a perfectly smooth surface, so it's just been brushed with a narrowish brush to indicate the flow of the water. I haven't added any indications of the direction of flow, such as ripple trails off the rocks, because I want to be able to flip the modules end-for-end to maximise flexibility of use. The ends are 100mm wide, and this piece is about 350mm long.
  22. This will be the Terrain build-up thread for the Valkyria Chronicles scenario I am creating here: Let’s Make … Gallia to Arms! A 20mm Valkyria Chronicles Scenario I wanted to create a double effect with the terrain. On one hand, my goal was to recreate the atmosphere that Valkyria Chronicles radiates, this special kind of game and anime combination that made the game's artstyle so unique. On the other hand I was aware that there is some difference between the view the player in VC has on the units and terrain and the view a player has on a board game. So I decided to mix the overall design with the art style of the original Blitzkrieg strategy game. Well then - gehen wir's an!
  23. I took out the BBQ and some stuff I bought. Used styrofoam for the base and a Styrofoam Ball ( half of it). Applied some snow an grass flock, glued some trees and figurines in place and done. The houses will light up at night and I added a string of Led lights. Put it in the garden in front of our window/door. So in the evening we can see it from our room. Just a silly idea, maybe you guys like it, because you know...most of you are silly too...
  24. About The brunt of it: A trigger-happy rival watches over a narrow corridor, ready to turn the tight confines in to a bullet-filled death-trap. A large bulkhead provides the cover needed for your unit to hide from the scope of an enemy sniper. A set of scaffolding provides your team the perfect vantage point to spring an ambush. Whether you're new to the world of tabletop wargaming or you're a seasoned veteran who’s prospered on countless battlefields, 'Sector 0141' terrain is perfect to contain the hostilities of any industrial conflict - whether it be gang warfare, a separatist insurgency or an alien invasion. We at Dark City Terrain couldn’t be happier to spearhead our first ever Kickstarter; 'Sector 0141'. Completely modular in its design, this highly detailed, laser-cut MDF terrain lets you connect towers with walkways, stairs and platforms to construct your own unique, multi-level arena suited for the factories and dense metropolis of the future. Backer's Rewards: Greenhorn's Gambit - "You done good, kid!" Even the smallest donation can carry production far and wide - and for this you receive two thumbs-up and a gracious thank you. Thumbs and Thanks :) Scatter Pack 1 - "Hey look, lootable crates!" What's a battlefield without some chest-high cover to hide behind? Scatter Pack 1 includes: 4x Small Crates 4x Large Crates Scatter Pack 2 - "Hey look, lootable crates inside containers!" Because every wasteland warlord/judicial enforcer/alien hive-mind needs a place to stash their loot. Scatter Pack 2 includes: 4x Small Crates 4x Large Crates 2x Shipping Containers Juve's Pledge - "When the shooting starts, don't forget to duck!" An appetiser to what we have to offer, a teaser for those who like to test the waters first. Juve's Pledge includes: 5x Straight Platforms 2x Stairs 4x Bridges Ganger's Pledge - "Get some explosives on that door!" When it's time to start playing games with your first team of blood-hungry gangers (or pious enforcers - we don't judge!). Ganger's Pledge includes: 5x Straight Platforms 3x Corners 2x T Junction 1x Four Way Junction 4x Stairs 8x Bridges
  25. So one of my November goals was to work on (or even finish) the DDS 2014 tower ruins .. If you look at the WIP thread, you'll see that it took me a LOOONG time to get this done finally.. I'm not completely satisfied with the way the treasure came out, and learned a lot from applying the sand without painting the base Bonesium first, but over all, I'm fairly happy with it...
×
×
  • Create New...