Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Terrain'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Reaper Discussion
    • FAQs 'n Stuff
    • News
    • Reaper General
    • RVC: Reaper Video Channel
    • Chronoscope
    • Bones Miniatures & Legendary Encounters
    • ReaperCon
  • Craft Corner
    • Show Off
    • Painting Tips & Advice
    • Works In Progress
    • Shutterbug
    • Sculpting
    • Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques
    • Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
    • Mini Exchanges and Paint Contests
  • Reaper Games
    • CAV
    • Warlord
  • General Discussion
    • General Fantasy
    • General Sci-Fi
    • General Modern / Historical
    • Kickstarter
    • Off-Topic Rampancy
  • The Sandbox
    • The Gathering
    • The Playing
    • Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses

Calendars

  • Reaper

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 400 results

  1. I haven’t really been getting a lot of painting done, but I sat down at my painting desk the other day and noticed that I had two buildings sitting over in one corner, neglected for a couple of months, and decided to start adding paint. This one is from Apocalypse Miniatures. They ran a Kickstarter back in 2017, and my brother and I both ended up backing this. In my case, I backed it to the extent of 10 buildings, of which this is the second I have finished. The first was back in November. In general, this wasn’t too bad to paint. The little detail bits molded into the base look nice in the pictures, but I would really prefer that they were not sculpted in; it detracts from the flexibility of the building somewhat. Sizewise, these are a little small for Reaper figures, and are probably intended for a 28mm scale (e.g. Metal Magic, mid-period Citadel, later Ral Partha), but that’s always negotiable when deploying scenery. This building is a SOLID block of resin, so the game will be played around it rather than through it, and I would as soon buildings in that mode be a bit underscale anyway. When I say solid, I put it on my kitchen scale, and it’s just a bit over two pounds (935g for those in countries with sensible measurement systems). You wouldn’t want to drop it on your toe. As for the building name, that’s how it is spelled on their web site...
  2. Recently completed: The Shipwreck 3D printed from the Kickstarter set Depths of Savage Atoll, by EC3D Designs.
  3. Wire Tree Scratch Built The Twist One Friday evening as we played Batman: Talisman I twisted a tree to life. Formed from 13 strands of wire of approximately 12-inches in length, the tree takes shape by folding them in half and twisting the loop created into the trunk of the tree. The loop created is cut into the roots and the longer tendrils are twisted into limbs and branches to form the crown of the tree. As you can see in the picture, I used one of my Armstrong sample tiles to make a base for the roots and glued it in place with some Loctite Gel Glue. The idea is to form irregular surfaces to cover and create the illusion of a real trunk, roots and limbs. The crown will kind of solve itself when the canopy is applied later. The Ground and Bark Once you have a "skeleton" for the tree, it's time to add the skin. To do this there are a number of ways. You can use liquid latex. You can apply green putty or green stuff. I chose to do the super glue and baking soda method. You've probably seen my work with this insta-cure method before on Frulla Krung and other Frost Giants. I use super thin, insta-cure cyanoacrylate (super glue) that allows it to run well over the wires and base and then coat that with the baking soda. The squeeze bottle, shown in the background, allows me to apply it as a wind blown sediment or just to dust it over the glue. The opposite can be done where you make a pile of baking soda or fill the crevice you want covered and apply the super glue carefully so you don't get an impact crater. Of course, maybe you want impact craters. As you can see above, the effect is quite "chilling." Be careful of fumes. It's still super glue. And super-thin super glue runs everywhere so I suggest putting down something you don't care about. I use box lids. The Crown Once you have the coating applied to your liking, it's time to finalize the branches and make the crown. Here's where random is your friend. Twist the strands into limbs and then twist off the limbs into branches. You can create burls and broken limb ends by adding sharp turns with your pliers. In this case, I left the crown relatively open. It's a small, young tree after all. You can see another much older tree in the works behind it below. Our specimen is primed as well. I added curlicues at the ends of the branches to eat some excess wire and for extra hook points for the canopy. The Canopy The next step after this is to paint the trunk. I used a pair of FolkArt Pickling Washes to achieve this. The first was a dark gray, FolkArt Stormy Sky. To add body to the paint in order to help fill some of the wire gaps, I mixed in some Liquitex Matte Medium. Once the basecoat was applied. I drybrushed the trunk, roots and limbs with FolkArt Cottage White Pickling Wash mixed with some of the Stormy Sky mixture. This gave me a nice light ashen color to the bark. The canopy is made from Woodland Scenics Tree Canopy Green and Yellow mixed with essentially some static grass I got off of Wish. I mixed them into my Hamilton Beech Grinder and ground them down further. You'll prolly have noted that there are some wires visibly still. This has been noted. I ran out of mixed canopy. I will be making another batch shortly to finish it. I used a spritz bottle of glue from Dollar Tree to apply the canopy. It worked really well. Once it was set, I used my favorite finish coat to solidify the canopy, Testors Dullcote. What's Left That's where it's at as of now. As to next, I will be doing a wash of the canopy to add shading to the tree. That will carry down the trunk and roots. Then I will apply an umber paint to the ground and a mixture of cork and bark, ground down in my grinder, over that. Stay tuned, Stay Well and Enjoy
  4. Here's a rundown on how I make quick, cheap trees for tabletop games. For well under $10 you can have 3 clumps of good looking terrain using commonly available materials. What you need: - glue, white and cyanocrylic (Super Glue) - 50mm round bases - sand, gravel, or kitty litter - craft paints - craft brushes - wire cutters - flock - plastic flowers from a hobby craft store, commonly called "stems" or a "bush" if there is clump of them. Look for something more or less tree like, with branches. This example is covered with clumps of foam. They come in various colors depending on the time of year. Step one consists of separating each stem of flowers from the clump, discarding the leaves. Leave the "flower" part attached to the wire stems. Use wire cutters to trim stems to about 4" long. Coil each wire tightly so that it fits on your 50mm base. Bend and shape each stem so that you can fit 2 or 3 stems on each base. Use Super Glue to attach firmly. Step two: sand and paint. The sand helps cover up the wires, and adds a little weight for stability. It looks best if you paint the base and wires, then glue down sand or gravel (let it dry) and paint a 2nd time. This gives you good coverage on the base, and on the sand. Step three: flock and details. I already added gravel to make large stones, but you can add more if you want a rocky look. It sticks best if you glue to the sand before adding flock. Cover the base with white glue and then apply flocking of your choice. Now you can add finer details like grass tufts, flowers, leaves, or colored flock. I added orange flock to enhance the autumn theme. My final step was to give the bright grey rocks a little brown wash to make them look more natural.
  5. Story Who knows what the future holds whether it be a nuclear war or the planets dying climate times are going to change so get stuck in while you can to the near future and beyond with some unique terrain and scenery setups from steampunk styles western towns to container towns and military buildings, along with a selection of vehicles. we are going back for this KS to stretch goals as it makes it easier for me to keep you updated with the goings-on, but rest assured you will AGAIN be getting plenty of value for your dollars/pounds, I have kept this one very affordable. I will be asking for your input for the stretch goals so we can adapt this KS to suit you the gamer's needs as we go so list your thoughts and ideas in the comments and maybe I can make them appear here. so let's see what you are fetting and remember this is just the starter stuff more will be added as we go here is the link to the past apocalypse KS that you get full access to if you back that level https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wowbuildings/apocalypse-wow Ok, so what do you get? all of the following is included in the basic £40 backing CONTAINER TOWN 10 building set is made from 3 types of shipping containers and vehicle shells STEAMPUNK STYLE WILD WESTERN TOWN 8 building set, a mix of wooden wild west buildings and metal plating 3 VEHICLE SET cars from the now adapted for the future CURVED HABITATS 2 building set MILITARY OUTPOST BUILDING SET £1000 STRETCH GOAL DRILL RIG £1500 STRETCH GOAL EXCAVATOR £2000 STRETCH GOAL PUNK TRAIN (wip) £2500 STRETCH GOAL VEHICLE SET 2 (wip) these two shells will make the two additional vehicles this one will be a police car of some kind big engine and exhausts for this one £3000 STRETCH GOAL BUILD YOUR OWN £3500 STRETCH GOAL £4000 STRETCH GOAL £4500 STRETCH GOAL TBA the container town files in all kit form, build you own setups add the detail you want where you want it £5000 STRETCH GOAL BIG TRUCK VEHICLE
  6. Since I’m getting close to finishing my trike and mechs I want to try to get some.....bigger projects finished that have been languishing in the U.F.O. (Unfinished Objects) Status for some time now. Here are the ones I’ll be focusing on. The bridge. With a 28mm figure for comparison. Now fo the other more ambitious pieces. This is going to be a modular fortress. So far I have only two pieces based. Once again more 28mm figures for scale. And my most ambitious project. It will only be used on a 6x6 area most likely. Multiple paths allow access to the top of the mountain. And the top can be removed allowing for battles inside of the mountain. Thanks for looking!
  7. Against all expectations, I'm getting back into 40K. This is because, against all expectations, some fine friendly folks are opening a FLGS that's actually local to me. That is, it's in the small town I live in. Activity is mostly been MTG and other card games along with 40K. Since they are just starting out they don't really have any terrain to play with. As it happens, I dont' have lot of stuff for 40K unless the battle is being fought on a planet that just happens to resemble the Ethiopian countryside. However, I have way too much "possible terrain stuff"/junk laying about so I figure I could knock some things out for people to use at the store. Here are some trees I put together (bases will be done later): Other plans are To copy Chris Palmer's board game punchout ruins. So sad about all the punchouts I have thrown away.. Add some Deadzone terrain bits to a styrofoam packing shape to make a bunker. Build some of the Deadzone terrain as scatter terrain. Maybe make a tower and some barriers? Any other ideas for quick, cheap, hard wearing 40K terrain are definitely welcome!
  8. I got my caverns terrain, and... Wow! Cave Cliff Pack, Natural Bridge, stairway to violence, stone banks pack, and webbed lair adventure pack. Apparently a tote is still coming? And I already got texture patches. Things are currently getting scrubbed.
  9. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/stonehavenmini/pop-up-fantasy-settings-kit-vol-ii?ref=discovery&term=miniatures Story I love pop-ups. It never fails to surprise me when a pop-up unfolds into 3D space from seeming nothingness. I hope you guys will have some of the fun that I had when I got to put these together. These kits are part miniature model, part 3d puzzle, and all paper-craft! As you build them, you'll be guided by the instructions and labels found in the kit, and also full instructional walk-through videos where I build them with you step-by-step. I put a lot of work into making sure these designs would work consistently and look good. It makes me happy every time I see them! These pop-ups are a great way to fill your table up with neat working terrain that doesn't break the bank and is easy to carry around and store. This time around, we are only offering the digital files. That being said, these files are designed to be printed on both A4 and American standard 8.5 x 11 inch letter-sized paper. All of the files (at least those that are completed at the end of the Kickstarter, including the first 5 settings) will be made available to all backers as soon as the Kickstarter funds are distributed to us (Usually within 2 weeks of the project end date). After printing, the pages will look something like this: You'll need additional supplies such as a hobby knife, double-sided tape, and backing material in order to assemble your pop-ups. Once you put them together, you will be able to combine them into fantastic miniature worlds! Our initial funding goal will cover the design of the first five settings and one flat terrain peice. These will include the Mageboat, the Market Square, the Traveler's Wagon, the Castle Wall, Charlie's Castle, and the Mysterious Grate Flat Hex. Mageboat The Mageboat is a watercraft designed to be steered and propelled by magical means. At a 28mm scale it would measure 50 feet from bow to stern. Take your adventures to the high seas with this sturdy vessel! Market Square At the Market Square, you can find food, drink, weapons, and a host of other curios. This is probably where that stolen painting wound up, now coated in a thick layer of dust, after nearly 2 decades. Traveler's Wagon The travelers are the continent's most prolific traders, and are always a welcome sight. But this cart seems to have been left unattended. Its team of horses and usual occupants are mysteriously missing. It was probably the giant ants. Again. Yes . . . that was what happened. Castle Wall The castle wall is the perfect place to hatch a "storming the castle" plot. All you need is a wheelbarrow and a holocaust robe. You probably already have both! Print out and assemble 6 copies of the castle wall and you'll have yourself a stronghold! Charlie's Castle Charlie's castle is a very small castle (more of a fort really) that is mostly used as a customs checkpoint these days. It's fortunate that you adventurers came along, you can clear out the tribe of goblins that have set up camp within its walls. Mysterious Grate Flat Hex Not technically a pop-up, this hex tile provides some space for your characters to cross on their way to somewhere else. Because is it really a journey if no one journeys? Also, what's going on with that mysterious ground hole? We are excited about making as many pop-up settings as we can to be included in this kit! That's why we are going to keep adding more stretch goals as these ones are met. Our current plan is that every additional thousand dollars pledged to the kickstarter adds a setting to the digital kit! CORRUPTED SHRINE: $3000 Stretch Goal This shrine honors the great philosophers and scientific minds that together founded the Elipsiconian council. Unfortunately, the shrine has lately become the site of several unexplained deaths. It's up to you to discover it's dark secrets! (This setting is a redesign using the basic structure of the Gazebo from our previous Pop-up Kickstarter.) WATERFRONT FLAT HEX (Unpictured): $4000 Stretch Goal This flat hex serves as a transition from land to water. Here you can fish, swim, and relax as you prepare to head back into the nearby ruins. LONE TOWER (Unpictured): $5000 Stretch Goal This lonely tower is where the orcish sniper is holed up, shooting hapless travelers as they move along the nearby roadway. You guys should head up there and make sure he (OR SHE! Petra asks why it couldn't be a female orcish sniper. Girls can be snipers too!) is stopped. As we reach these goals, more will be added to the kickstarter. We already have some pretty awesome stuff planned, but we also want your suggestions for the terrain you'd like to see in the set! We are excited to get these pop-up files completed and have them in your hands so you can make them too! Risks and challenges Because the focus of this kickstarter is the creation of digital files, there will be very little that can go wrong. That being said, we could get sick or something. That could cause some delays. As with all digital files, backers might have difficulty opening and printing .pdf files on their end. We will do everything we can to ensure that backers can access and use the files from this kickstarter to make some awesome pop-ups.
  10. Finished this a few days ago. One thing I have to say. I've looked at a lot of people's online before doing mine. And not to be rude but I don't like any of theirs. Nobody seemed to try and do a theme to the rocks that location wise made more sense for the fossilized dinosaur on its back. Lots of people made gems and all kinds of other things. You wouldn't find those things around fossil remains. So this was my attempt to have something more surreal and actually include the fossils better and since I collect museum quality fossils apart from painting minis. I've seen enough to try my hand at what it would look like more on an excavation site. :)
  11. I did this one a while ago. My first attempt to recreate the painted version on the packaging. I'm just missing the foliage. This was super fun! :D
  12. I’ve struggled with a good marble in the past. There is room for improvement but it’s finally looking like marble. For anyone trying to learn this technique, start with green marble. It seems to be more forgiving.
  13. I put in for a bag on the Black Friday sale, because ever since I was a kid, I had a certain fascination with the surprise element of grab bags ... and there's something especially fun about the assortment of random bits from SWM: "How can I make use of this oddball base / terrain bit?" Basically, the story behind the "Bag o' (Crud)" (that's not what it's actually called, but Wendy would be disappointed in me if I used that word in casual conversation) is that it's a bag of whatever assorted bits are on hand that aren't quite up to Secret Weapon Miniatures's usual production standards -- so there might be some bases with warping, or bubbles in the base near the edge, or breakage, etc. I also notice a lot of variation in resin color, so maybe some are the result of testing out different resin types for casting. Sometimes the bases show no discernible flaws at all, but that might simply be because he throws in a few random spare bits to fill out the bag if there's not enough "trash" around. In particular, I got some more "Shattered Ritual" bases of assorted sizes and styles. (I got a big oval "Shattered Ritual" base, and actually bought one 120mm round-lipped "Shattered Ritual" base last Black Friday circa 2018. I thought I could use the latter to base an Iron Kingdoms mini project, but never got around to it, as the campaign had already ended, and noises about possibly starting it up again got well snuffed out.) I *love* this style, even though it's rarely a fit with the sorts of games I typically run. Basically, each base has an intricate collection of "magic circle" designs with a ruinous look, like some wizard's tower had circles-upon-circles interlinking with each other, and then SOMETHING WENT HORRIBLY WRONG. (And thus the "shattered" part.) The surface of the flooring is fairly smooth, but with lots of finely scribed detail that would be a pain to try to paint out by conventional means. However, I found a method that works for me: 1) Spray-paint it with white primer, right out of the bag. It seems as if there's just a tiny bit of residual mold release that collects in the "scribed" areas (or perhaps there's some other "surface tension" effect taking place), and the end result is that the paint tends to collect on the flat, top surfaces, but DOES NOT pool into the sharp scribed lines, so this actually *brings out* the detail more. 2) Once it has fully dried, I smear the surface, section by section, with Apple Barrel paints "Pewter" acrylic, then wipe it off, allowing the paint to "stain" the surface and especially the recessed areas. "Pewter" is a strange "dirty grey" color that has an ever-so-faintly yellow-green shift to it. It ends up turning the white-primered surface into what looks (to my eyes) something like aged porcelain, with a faintly grimy yellowish tint to the surface, and a dirty-grey "stain" that brings out the scribed lines. Sometimes in the course of wiping off the excess, I will catch some of the paint in the recesses, so I go back later (after it has dried) to do some touch-up work where needed. 3) I apply some brown wash to the exposed "ground" areas where cracks between the "magic circles" have given way. If some of this brown splashes onto the surface, I just wipe it away, and any resulting "stain" just adds to the grimy effect of the ruins. 4) Using a fine liner brush, I trace the thicker border lines around the circles with Golden Yellow (not a particularly BRIGHT yellow), and then go back with a very little bit (at a time) of watered-down Pumpkin Orange to tint random parts of the golden-yellow for a little color variety. (Burnt Sienna would probably work well, too.) 5) Also using a fine liner brush, I go in and do some spot tinting of some of the circles, symbols, and other shapes (but not all!) with various pastel or otherwise reduced-saturation paint colors (Barnyard Red, French Blue, Denim Blue, Pewter, Olive, etc.), slightly watering down if necessary, as I want a *hint* of color, not solid, garish spots. It's perfectly fine if the colors are "dirtied" a bit, or the coverage isn't complete, since a bit of *wear* would be appropriate. Here's "Fiametta" (Soda Pop Miniatures - "Relic Knights" - heroine from "Doctrine" faction) painted up and based on the rounded-lip "Shattered Ritual" base I got from the latest Bag o' Crud ... on top of the oval base I got in last year's Bag o' Crud ... on top of a Tablescapes "Forgotten City" tile set. "Doctrine" is basically this faction centered around a "magical academy" in Relic Knights, so the "mook" forces are a bunch of magic-school kids (boring looking guys in school uniforms, and girls in really short skirts, all waving wands), with most of the heroes either being "teachers" or other "staff" at the school, plus a few special "graduates" ("mahou shoujo" types, mostly). The faction color is yellow/gold, so I used it for the base rim, and also used it as a recurring element for the magic circles on the Shattered-Ritual bases.
  14. Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course). I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers. He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer. ^^^ The PLA filament version of the model. This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell. Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc. This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces. (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.) ^^^ On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model. First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do. I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves. Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up. That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this. Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit. The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects. Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process. The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right. I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out. At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition. (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)
  15. Well mostly scenic base. Made a town centre that will get dressed up as a market once finished. Basing material is foamex with a plastic receipt spool covered in Milliput. Painted with a mix of craft, PP and GW paints. Further tinted with a treatment of oils.
  16. Online, from a certain market of miniatures, I found some "Kaosball" team expansion packs on clearance (for a better price than what they're listed at now, as of this writing). Each pack contains 13 32mm-scale minis in 2 poses (6 of one pose on 25mm square bases, and 7 of an alt pose on 25mm round bases), a "bust" that represents the "team coach," and a game-specific 12-sided die (which I suppose isn't much use for anything, unless I actually wanted to play the game). Anyway, this worked out to being under $1 a figure, and the sculpts looked interesting, so I got a few packs. (I find it hilarious, though, that while most of the packs are marked down, the "Felinia Hellcats" -- scantily-clad gun-toting cat-girls -- are specifically marked as "[CLEARANCE]" and yet they're priced at about 3x the asking price for each of the other teams.) I originally picked these guys up (the "Samaria Barbarians") with a vague intent that "someday" I would run a Savage Worlds convention one-shot scenario heavily inspired by the "Brütal Legend" video game ... but it occurred to me that few if any of my players would have heard of that game, and I'm no particular "expert" on anything rock-and-roll-related, so maybe I'm not the best person to GM such a setting. However, I could always use a few more post-apocalyptic wastelanders. The "big hair" style here doesn't necessarily look like it would fit the current Fallout aesthetic as established in Fallout 4 and Fallout 76, but I think these guys wouldn't look terribly out of place in the original Fallout 1 & 2 (what with all the "Mad Max" and "Fist of the North Star" wannabes wandering about in those games). I removed the figures from their bases, putty-and-texture-stamped the 25mm round bases, putty-and-texture-stamped some plastic 25mm rounds for the remaining figures, and did a few hand swaps and bit-add-ons to give a few of the figures visible ranged weaponry. (I figured that would give me a little more buy-in if I were to field a gang of these guys for an encounter and then they start FIRING on the PCs, versus what pushback I might get if they *appeared* to only be armed with axes.) I used some paper printed license plates to add some "junk armor" elements to further reinforce the "post-apocalyptic" vibe. Each team pack also comes with a "bust" to represent the team coach. I went with a bronze-and-verdigris scheme for each.
  17. Came across this article. Oh to have money, time, and space. "The scenery and structures are his forte, rather than the locomotives and tracks. "I find beauty in what everyone else sees as ugly - rugged skyscrapers, beaten-up warehouses, things that are very run down."
  18. This will be the Terrain build-up thread for the Valkyria Chronicles scenario I am creating here: Let’s Make … Gallia to Arms! A 20mm Valkyria Chronicles Scenario I wanted to create a double effect with the terrain. On one hand, my goal was to recreate the atmosphere that Valkyria Chronicles radiates, this special kind of game and anime combination that made the game's artstyle so unique. On the other hand I was aware that there is some difference between the view the player in VC has on the units and terrain and the view a player has on a board game. So I decided to mix the overall design with the art style of the original Blitzkrieg strategy game. Well then - gehen wir's an!
  19. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/terrain4print/ulvheim-stl-files-for-a-stone-city?ref=discovery_category_newest About This project aims to expand the Ulvheim ruin into a full-featured ruin city for your home 3D printer. You can already download the first two releases from Thingiverse for free. There is also an earlier release with smaller houses, also available for free. Click the image to see them. Previous Ulvheim releases The pledge rewards are STL-file downloads. I will share the files using Dropbox and the download will be available for years. If you have access to a 3D printer you can print as many copies of the models as you like. You can also vary the scale for more variety. Any type of 3D printer works but FDM is the most economical. Most models will fit inside a 120x120mm print bed. Printed parts can then be painted. The separate pieces fit together using a clip, also printed. This way you can build several different configurations with the same printed parts. You can, of course, glue it together if you need extra stability. I have been making 3D printable terrain since 2016. I have done one Kickstarter before. All files from that kickstarter are available in my store. But read on to the pledges before you buy anything there. I also have a Patreon page and all models done for that is released for free on Thingiverse. This includes the previous three Ulvheim releases. All my designs on thingiverse Follow our journey to Ulvheim and beyond. After a smooth trip across a calm sea we arrive in what is left of the port of Ulvheim. The promised guide is nowhere to be seen so far. Where will we go now? Be aware! I am showing you estimates of pledge costs in USD and I try to keep a margin. Kickstarter will show you the exact cost. It might be a slight bit more, but probably a little bit less. Click image to reach my shop Click image to reach my shop
  20. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/aus30k/3d-printable-space-elf-buildings?ref=discovery_category_newest About Welcome to our fourth project and one which is a little different to the previous two. While our projects for the resin models will be continuing latter this year and early next, we decided to run a small kickstarter alongside some other projects which we are doing. One of the things which our local gaming community has always been big on is the creation of great looking gaming tables and key to that is to have great looking terrain. While there is an abundance of Imperial terrain now available both through various stores and a tremendous amount online, there is often a significant lack of xenos/alien themed terrain to suit the non Imperial factions. Sadly terrain is also one of the more expensive things to ship internationally and so has always been a hurdle for many players and groups. With the growing popularity of 3D printers and prevalence of print hubs scattered around the world these hurdles are starting to break down. With this project we hope to provide people with some nicely detailed buildings with a strong Space Elf feel. The buildings are quite large and should provide both lines of sight blocking terrain and areas for more mobile units to land on higher ground. The pledge rewards are for the STL files themselves to allow you to go and print your own, there are no physical rewards, however if you need help finding a print hub to get your files printed, we will certainly try and help you with that as well. There are three buildings in total, backers pledge for one (AU$15), two (AU$30) or all three (AU$40) buildings. The rewards are for personal printing, not commercial or distribution. Exiled Space Elf Compound Shrine of the Brilliant Lance Shrine of the Soaring Eagle
  21. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mysticrealm/mystic-realms-qcs-quick-cave-system-3d-tabletop-terrain?ref=discovery_category_newest About Mystic-Realm's Quick Cave & Cavern System In this campaign we deliver to you a stand alone wall-less terrain system that will work with the terrain you already have. QCS terrain is designed to get the tabletop adventure assembled quickly! Each chamber ranges in size all the way up to nearly 8 inches x 8 inches. Lay down one chamber sections [encounter] at a time as your players progressing though the adventure [fog of war style] or pre build the entire adventure with a quickness. The wall-less design and large pieces make for easy painting, easy transport and playable in any direction. Playable in any direction? YES! Aside from being able to play off any edge each chamber is double sided! This Kickstarter will include the Base System set 1, Stalagmites set 1, Pools set 1 and the 6 pieces Junctions set 1. For stretch goals the QCS will expand to include - Twist & Turns set 1 and Bridges set 1. Each set includes 4 double side themed chamber pieces. Printing two of each double sided chamber will give you 8 unique playable chambers for each set. So each set is pretty big and provided more than enough encounters for an evening adventure. QCS Base System QCS Stalagmites QCS Pools Junctions Accessories Stretch Goal LOCKED QCS: Twist & Turns [UNLOCKED]
  22. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lorazam/apocalypse-fortress-3d-printable-fortification-and-terrain?ref=discovery_category_newest About From the calm arid deserts, we move on to a new more dramatic scenery. Worlds engaged in prolonged sieges and defensive endeavors have developed unique fortifications and barriers to block the enemies advance or break them entirely. Bunkers, Forts, Walls and classic defensive material are the theme of this grim campaign. Looking at the diverse range of uniquely designed defensive structures you might find yourself familiar with a few of the designs. Spreading the word and sharing the Campaign's Web-Link will result in more content for each of you, but more about that in the Stretchgoal section down below. We also greatly improved our file delivery system (more about that at the bottom). The Full Pledge Level already gives you access to all models of this Kickstarter including all reached Stretchgoals. Additionally, to the 6 Buildings, the Fortress Walls and the modular Trench System below, much more content will be unlocked through the Stretchgoals. -> Pictures of actual Print-Outs near the bottom of the page! Command Center Infantry Command The Fortress with Modular Wall System The Fortress with Modular Wall System The Fortress with Modular Wall System (pitched roofs are optional) Gun Emplacements Modular Fortified Trench System Modular Fortified Trench System Pillbox Infantry Bunker 2 Watchtower
  23. Here's the finished product. WIP here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/88136-blzeebub-builds-another-bird-boxbegin/&tab=comments#comment-1870132 I made this as a wedding gift for some friends. I think they'll dig it and maybe you will too. More moss! I added a stained bottom for easy attachment to a post. I also decided to enrich the wood of the door and slapped some wood stain on it for depth of color. The metal I roughed up a bit with sandpaper and sprayed with a solution of salt, hydrogen peroxide, and vinegar to speed oxidation. Though the ridge cap is galvanized steel and the chimney is aluminum, so who knows what that oxidation will actually look like! Questions, comments, critiques always welcome!
  24. So...gonna make this a WIP though it's technically done as of yesterday. At the risk of becoming the "birdhouse guy" I opted to skip the registry of household (comm)oddities and make a bluebird nesting box for my friends' wedding. I think they'll appreciate it. I wanted a kind of whimsical, cottage style--the crazy roof being the focus. After much perusing of images of "fairy house," "magic cottage," and the like I settled on a basic design. I used a jigsaw to cut out the front and back walls from 1/2" plywood. Side walls are similarly non-square. Wood glue and finishing nails later and I had a frame. While that dried I soaked some 5mm (1/4") plywood in hot water long enough to soften it and bent it slowly onto the frame, clamped it for a day, and glued and nailed. Repeated for the other side. The two sides of ply were differently happy to take a curve so I acquiesced to the wood. Some peeling of the outer ply occurred, but later I scraped that off. For the rocks, I took some "river pebbles" from the local big box hardware store, rinsed off the dust and began applying with heavy duty landscaping adhesive (might have actually been Liquid Nails brand--I've used it before for the same effect). Let these cure and catch up with other life for a few days then on to the other sides!
  25. This is something I started working on a looong time ago. I finally made the push to get it done and get it out--probably donating it to one of the FLGSs. WIP here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/87566-ruined-building-terrain-pic-heavy-ish/ I wasn't trying to get too, too fancy with this. Rather I began with the intent to see how quickly I could make a good enough piece of terrain. Had I not taken a year-long hiatus from it I may have succeeded, as I think that barring drying times I have around. You can see a Bones skele or to lurking around for scale. I was having a challenging time with my camera and the lighting (room is kind of in disarray at the moment), so I have a few different exposures here. Had a lot of fun with the fiddly bits like the graffiti, wire conduit, and dead plants. In the fist and second pics you can even see one of my new backgrounds in the...background--too bad I made it for a standard mini, not a large building. Questions, comments, critiques welcome!
×
×
  • Create New...