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Found 393 results

  1. Here's my work on the "Tablescapes Dungeons-Mines" set from Secret Weapon Miniatures. The Goblins are all from "The Hobbit: Escape from Goblin Town" set, and the Dwarves are mixed manufacturer. I just wanted to give it a little character...or some little characters.
  2. That right guys and gals their not just for wedding cakes ... I like to fill mine with expanding foam (when I have a few foam projects lined up, the can of foam never works for me later so it's a use it or lose it) chop em up (once dry) and butter the ends with something rough and stout (I used flexall) ... a few examples from a city set I was working on before I moved (still unfinnished) ... cities abound in hard cover so it's mostly for looks, nice looks but looks ... in a jungle or desert set it's a great way to add hard cover and have an overgrown lost temple (jungle) or lost oasis side ruins (desert) ... it's a simple and straight forward technique to add just the right sized cover in just about any table set you got ... I got a large bag of them fairly cheap at a craft store (Michesls) a great value for the buck. P.S. the Grey rubble is old model sprew rum through an old hand crank meat grinder ... who knew modeling could be so much fun !
  3. I'll edit this once I switch from my phone to my PC. Edit: OK, I got these just last week but I wanted to use them at the Origins Game Fair in Columbus, OH, June 14-17, so I got to work the day they arrived and started washing them with dish soap and hot water. I couldn't wait for them to dry so I started designing the layout while they were still wet! Next day I glued them in place. They are mounted on expanded foam insulation, this particular brand comes in 1/2 inch thickness, 14.5 by 48 inches. It is used to go between 2x4 wall studs, hence the odd width. Any way, it a good size for modular gaming terrain once cut down to 24 inches and doubled up. I used Gorilla brand glue to attache the tiles to the substrate; I knew PVA (Elmers) glue would not stick well to the PVC tiles from trying it on Reaper Bones, and CA (Superglue) glue does not play nice with expanded foam. The Gorilla glue I used dried white; it looks strange against the gray tiles, but as it was all getting painted anyway it did not matter. Two properties of Gorilla glue I had forgotten worked in my favor. First, it requires a little moisture to cure, and so it didn't matter the tiles were not entirely dry after one day. I also used a sponge to dampen the flat underside of all the tiles. Second the glue expands! The tiles don't fit together well and have a lot of gaps, so the expanding glue helped fill in those gaps. I had to go back later and trim some of the excess glue but that was easy with a hobby knife. By the way you might want to use gloves if you're using Gorilla glue; it sticks to skin pretty well, too. After another day of drying I first painted all the exposed foam with black craft paint to protect it from the next step. I then sprayed the piece with Army Painted black primer; the solvents in most spray paints will dissolve expanded foam, and indeed some on this piece was pockmarked even though it was covered in acrylic paint first. After a few hours I then applied the first, heavy "damp" brush of a slate gray interior household paint I picked up on the clearance "oops" rack at Walmart. I used this kind of cheap interior paint to base coat my terrain; it's cheap and durable, but it takes longer to dry and does not cover as well if not applied heavily. Hence the "damp" brush instead of a true dry brush. Once that was cured I followed up with some dry brushed dolphin gray craft paint. I then used Reaper brown wash to paint all the wood and metal rails. I lightly stippled the rails with some silver paint and then did a second, lighter dry brush with the dolphin gray. The next day I mixed some black and brown craft paint and made a wash, and used some Reaper Red, Green and Blue liners to add some variation to the stone. Once all that dried I then applied a final, very light dry brush of a cream color. There is more I'd like to do to this piece, like add some lighting and the mine carts that came with the SW KS reward, and filling in some more gaps in the walls, but I think this will do for now. And I have almost half of my reward left yet for another piece. I really like these tiles; I see me buying more soon. Well done, MisterJustin and Secret Weapon Minis.
  4. Have put together some rough ground by sticking some resin basing bits from Scibor ("elven ruins") with foam off cuts and rocks from other models. Then just started painting the whole thing as basically a rockery. The idea is to add a bit of snow effect, and some lichen etc or trees when it is on the table. I have then started on a set of ruined buildings for Frostgrave. These are just foam pieces rolled with a green stuff world roller and stuck onto a wooden orange box left over from Christmas. As I shop at over priced supermarkets this was made out of some quite serviceable MDF/wood. It had holes cut into it already which I tried to use in the terrain. Am using balsa to stick ledges onto the inside and balsa floorboards on top. Will add more grime and then some snow effect. Will also think about using some water effects in the well/drain. Then, I made some little notice boards (as am a fan of Witcher 3) and my wife made some posters for them.
  5. Inspired by getting the docks done I did some more work on an unfinished watchtower project. It is a hexagonal pencil pot that I sawed in half. I put in balsa supports then layered coffee stirrers for the roof. To defend it I have added foam core board annexes either side of the door. I need to figure out how to do a lip all around the upper part (which will lift off) to disguise the joins. For the door I am probably just going to stick some magnetic material to the back of a couple of one sided resin doors so there can be a broken and unbroken option. Will paint or stick on the other doors and arrow slits. I haven't put it on a hill, wanted it to be versatile so a fairly limited wooden base. Will landscape it but keep it relatively flat. Will also add the ability to stick in artillery, I have the dwarf organ gun from Mantic and think that would be ideal as a 'deck gun'.
  6. I put together this Barrow from xps foam and a decopage cardboard treasure chest lid. I used a greenstuff world roller to texture the doorway and landing outside. It is all stuck together with super glue. I was keen to make sure that there were flat areas for based minis in the front and at the rear. My minor mistake was making the rear plinth/hill a bit too narrow after sticking on the rear wall section, hence cutting out a slit. When all the glue has dried I will prime it with a mix of mod podge and black paint. Then I will flock the top. I need to decide whether to make this snowy or green. I think that snow will cover more model making sins...
  7. This is a mastaba, "Egyptian Tomb IWS-EGY-011," from Itar's Workshop and two identical columns, I'm not sure where from. The old Ral Partha mindflayer and Reaper's Merith of the Flame are included for scale. "Mastaba" is a comparatively modern Arabic word meaning "bench." The original Egyptian hieroglyphs read "pr-djt" or "pr-djed" and meant "house of the afterlife." The hieroglyphs are gibberish (some are even sideways), which bugs me in a minor way. Just as a side note, the mastaba is hollow with a reinforcing partition in the middle. I lined it with green felt with an idea to storing related minis inside. My husband has been referring to it as a dice cup.
  8. Frulla Krung The Frost Giantess Frulla Krung was chosen as the next project by popular vote on the forums. The miniature was sculpted by Sandra Garrity and the base was composed of a piece of slate, sand, ballast, and bark. You can see for yourself in the WIP post. The miniature is depicted as a frost giant so I gave her blue skin and instead of a classic blond look as most seem to get, I decided to keep hers dark blue. For the eyes I went with a bright grey iris to make them creepy, intense and stand out. She's clothed in the latest fashion of yellow fur trimming a classic leather bikini top and loincloth bottom. Her "Ugg" boots are wrapped with leather thongs and she likes a fur bracer. She's sporting a tribal necklace of teeth but with a pendant to match the bracelet on her arm. Her other accessory? The family battleaxe. A classic double headed axe with some amazing filigree work on the flat of the head. She'll claim a few heads with it next go around with the humans below. Her ancestral home is high within the mountains and thus covered in snow, ice and hoarfrost. Here she is ... Frulla Krung, the Frost Giantess! Enjoy. Check her out in the Inspiration Gallery. (Approved) Added to Thrym's Index of Reaper Miniatures & Thrym's General Show Off List
  9. About main logo We're building a set of modular ruins for use with miniatures, ranging from a simple basic set of tumble-down walls to a whole cityscape of multiple levels, alleyways and rooftops. Together with Italian scenery sculptor The Lazy Forger we're hoping to improve on and add to our basic prototype set so that you can represent as much or as little as you need for your players in their overground adventures. Need a few brokendown walls? Rubble City will let you build many different setups from one kit. Want a gaming cupboard full of permanent structures for treasure-seeking adventurers? Rubble City does that too. Whether you're playing D&D, Frostgrave, Mordheim, Confrontation, or any miniatures-based wargame, these resin ruins will fit the bill. The Rubble City basic set contains 21 resin pieces scaled for 28-32mm models but easily repurposed with minor effort to suit smaller and larger scales. The basic set is enough to create roughly a 7" cube of ruins and the modular jigsaw design allows a wide variety of layouts just from one set. Rubble City basic set Combine two or more sets, however, and you can really start to build your imagination. Add pieces from the expansion sets and any additional Unlocks and the possibilities become almost endless ! Corners on the main pieces of Rubble City feature an interlocking jigsaw joint allowing multiple build options. Additionally, Rubble City is designed with post holes so you can add your own custom-made floors, and with door and window holes to allow whatever level of detailing you desire. If we can unlock them, stretch goals will add resin doors, windows, staircases, floors, ladders, roofs and more ! Building with the basic set. Stacking walls and adding floors. We've made sure that there's loads of detail and texture crammed into each master model and our casting process preserves all of that detail faithfully. Cast in a stone-filled grey resin the castings are stonelike-enough in appearance to be used straight from the box but will obviously benefit from being painted. The following pictures show just how good the castings look with a simple paint process of undercoat - basecoat - colour wash - drybrush, and the addition of flock, static grass, and other model planting improves their appearance even more. You can leave the resin pieces unassembled for maximum replayability - building a different layout every time - or assemble them more permanently with superglue ( and a little filler around finger joints ) before painting and leaving them based or unbased according to your preference.
  10. About Welcome to Undead Graveyard! These graveyard elements add a thematic scenery to a simple board, with high quality resin pieces. In an easy and fun way you can turn any board into your private graveyard of the Undead Realms with our tombstones. This set is composed of 20 different tombstones models. They are ideal to decorate any playing surface or create dioramas and give life to your darkest ideas! This set is composed of 20 different tombstones models with an older style, half buried in the ground. They are ideal to decorate any playing surface or create dioramas and give life to your darkest ideas! UNDEAD AWAKENS Use the powers of your necromancer to give life to the undead who will awaken to destroy the souls of those who stand in your way. Available models: . Fantastic static grass to decorate your scenery and miniatures: "Dead Grass" specially designed by Pablo el Marques and we show it to you in our campaign first. Each bag contains 2 grams of static grass.
  11. This is my latest terrain piece for my tabletop games, a small gorge. It's about 300 x 150 mm, and at its deepest the gorge is about 30 mm deep. It's not wide enough for vehicles in any scale larger than 6mm or 10-12mm. Maybe a jeep in 15mm, certainly nothing larger. There's just enough of a bend in it that you can't see right through from end to end. I suspect that the rock formations would make geologists clench their fists and grind their teeth, but fortunately, I'm not a geologist.
  12. About How Did this start? So My Son, (7 at the time), enjoyed playing Vault manager, and one holiday he asked me If I could build him a vault to play with. So we sat down and drew up some designs, and then I sat down and did up the files, furiously prototyped, cut and amended the designs. Eventually I ended up with a corridor set that set up on a 4' x 4' board. I put it up on the BPLASER store and people seemed to like it. Fast forward 12 months, and I decided to expand the Corridor set with another 15 rooms, furniture and inserts, and put it up on Kickstarter to see if I could expand sales. The Corridor Set is a: multi gaming system, fully modular set of laser cut/ etched MDF terrain, for use with 28-32mm table top games. Each unit piece is a multi part kit made from Australian manufactured MDF, with the approx strength of the same thickness of pine board, which should give years of use. The modularity of the corridor set allows you to make unique table layouts every time you use it. Every piece will connect to any other piece letting you decide how large, or how small to make your battlefield. Vault, Spaceship or Corridor set. I have tried, in the design of the set, to make it as functional as possible, so the Corridor Set can be used to represent the interior of a spaceship, a fallout shelter, An evil scientist's lair, a military bunker,.... the list goes on. Using the many add-ons to the base set, you can make almost any scenario that comes to mind. I hope you will find it an interesting set, and battleground, and give a multitude of ideas in its set-up. INTERNATIONAL POSTAGE. PLEASE READ. I am in Brisbane, Australia. That's 11500 km from Los Angeles, and 16500 km from London. Shipping via ship from Australia takes 2-3 months and costs about $95 AUD for the base set. Airmail takes 5-10 days and costs approx $120 AUD for the base set. I have chosen Airmail as the most efficient and reliable method for you getting your gear. All parcels will be provided with a tracking number. ADD ONS. Postage will be calculated at approx $5 per item set, or room set that you add to your main pledge. This will mean that international postage is at a discounted rate. Backers from all other countries (Rest of the world) may have to pay additional import duties and other applicable taxes to the concerned authorities, upon receipt of their goods, based on the import policies of their respective countries. The duties and tax rates vary from country to country and we are unable to help you determine that for your shipment. If you wish to learn about the duties and taxes applicable to your shipment, you may want to check with the customs and border protection authority of your country. What's in the set: The following are some pics of the addons to the set. I will update them with painted versions in the next few days DOOR SET WITH BULKHEAD HATCH END CAP WITH BULKHEAD HATCH DOOR SET STANDARD FORCE DOOR SECURITY SHIELD
  13. Recently I started playing Frostgrave Ghost Archipelago so my need for terrain has increased. One particular scenario in the rulebook caught my creative attention. It calls for a watchtower, so I figured I'd try my hand at building one. For the record this will be my first piece of terrain. I wasn't sure how I was going to build this piece and what exactly I was going to use. I remembered I had a leftover square "dowel" from when I built measurement sticks for Song of Blades and Heroes and I figured they would make pretty good supports for my tower. After deciding to use the dowel it didn't take much thought to realize I was going to make this piece out of toothpicks and popsicle sticks. Now I had to make a decision, would I build a ladder or a series of ramps? If I understand the rules of the game carrying a treasure halves your movement, climbing also halves your movement, and they stack. So if there is a treasure at the top of the tower (which the scenario calls for) it'll take a couple turns to climb down. With this in mind I opted for a series of ramps and platforms instead (my failed attempt at making a siege ladder also reinforced this idea). My watchtower so far. My failed attempt at a ladder. The platforms I decided to go with. The first ramp. I originally lumped this project in with my regular painting thread but I thought it deserved it's own thread (it is terrain after all), so here it is.
  14. Started building a Kulathi battle force and colony outpost for their Kuden-3 outpost, in the Beehive star cluster, in the crab nebula ... Having 3 fingers a hand and 6 limbs the number system fore the Kulathi is based on 6 ... with 2,3 and 4 also prominent, so I based there units on 6 ... An officer (2 pistols = smg) 3 left hand smg and 2 right hand automatic rifles make a strike team ... no other unit types teams can exceed the number of strike teams. The fire team has 1 officer 1 smg and 4 auto rifles ... a longer ranged bite. I'm also adding a few hound of Tindalos units (4 with 1 smg and 1 officer kulathi) with bigger things in the works ...
  15. So, I'm about to start working on making some 3D bases of my own for my dragons (and hubby's too)... Anyone have any pointers or tips on particular putted to use when coating stuff like cork to add more detail, or would there be much of a difference between say Milliput, greenstuff, or other things? I ask as terrain generally doesn't require as much detail as a mini would, but it never hurts to get a few more opinions. I do have greenstuff atm (and Aves Apoxie if this supplier I'm trying to buy some from sends me an invoice ), and might be ordering some other stuff, hence why I'm curious. Love greenstuff for stamped or rolled bases, and gap filling (I suspect when I try sculpting I'll like it too, I'm enjoying how it behaves now that I've had a bit of time using it for gap filling and bases), but naturally I'm open to other options too.
  16. Have been stealing coffee stirrers for a while and thought I should disguise them. This is a modular set of docks for pirate settings/City docks, ghost archipelago. All I did was make platforms of various heights with layers of foam core board. Then Iaid cross pieces and laid the decks on top, just using different thicknesses of coffee stirrers. The stanchions are just pva glued to the side of the foam core, under the decks rather than showing above them. I painted the foam core black and am painting the wood using the Crafting Muse video on YouTube as a guide. I won't be basing these. The boat is a lucky find. It is a decoupage model ocean liner. I cut the top off and had a curved boat shape 15cm / 6" long and perfect for 8 models. Only £1.25 on sale. All I did was lay a deck of coffee stirrers then took some of the bits I cut off and glued them back on to the sides. Painted like the Dock. I don't want to add seats, mast, similar detail to this model to maximise how many based minis can stand in it.
  17. About A ground-breaking tabletop building system, made of durable, highly detailed, precise laser cut MDF and grey board. All buildings come ready to use, no glue required. THIS IS NOT A KIT! This unique system for 28mm tabletop games and RPG's uses strong earth magnets to attach the building exteriors (skins) to a base box. Construction couldn't be simpler! The magnetic system means the buildings can be easily and quickly assembled, disassembled and reassembled over and over in various combinations. PLAY Not only can you change skins to create different building combinations from within a range, you can also select skins from other ranges depending on the game or period you wish to play. This cross-game terrain system means you can build a Wild West town one evening, then just by changing the skins on the base box, a fantasy village for a wargame the next. PLAY All skins are pre-assembled and designed to flat-pack away. This makes transportation much easier and considerably cuts down storage needed, keeping everyone happy. What's more, your base box can be used as storage for your figures and other gaming elements, such as dice and tokens.
  18. A while back I promised Frank Franksson (Matbar) that I would do a short WIP or tutorial on how I use cork to make rock bases. I figured since I was doing the work anyway, I would drag the rest of you kicking and screaming on a magical journey through the dark, and twisted recesses of my questionable creativity. There are many other resources out there for bases of this type, but I will do a quick WIP of my quick and dirty method. I frequently sit, and build bases while I'm watching Netflix on my PC. I will list all the materials I use, and break it down into sections in case anyone wants to build along with me. I will be using my phone for a camera since I am coming down with the crud again, and I don't feel like digging out my DSLR and tripod right now.
  19. Decided to put together a little farmstand scene for a basing project. Split pieces of balsa wood to give a rough lumber approach, now I'm considering how to do painting/sealing on it, as I have minimal experience w Balsa. Want to keep all that little wood grain that popped up when I split them visible. Going to paint it slightly darker with acrylic browns, and then some slightly darker spots and lighter drybrush highlights to accentuate the grain. Should I gesso, or stain the balsa before working on it? Can I just work straight on it and seal it with a varnish afterwards? Any balsa wood experience/suggestions appreciated.
  20. I was in my local Dollar Tree over the weekend, and noticed they too had jumped on the Fairy Garden bandwagon. The have an assortment of blister-carded figures, of which this set of mushrooms seemed the most useful. There was also an assortment of poorly sculpted fairies, and another assortment of cartoonish animals. They also have a selection of buildings, like the twig and leaf gazebo above, and those shown below. As is typical, they are a little soft on detail, but may be spruced up a bit with paint. I may go back and get one of those mushroom houses to see if I can improve it a bit with a proper paint job. They also had an assortment of artificial succulents that would make good judge foliage.
  21. About This project is to fund the production of a set of cast table top gaming terrain pools. This is a continuation and expansion of this line. This time I am offering pools in 25mm, 50mm, and 100+ mm sizes. Offerings will be available as cast pieces in Dental Stone, or Plaster. Dental Stone pieces are available as painted and finished or unpainted and unfinished pieces. Here are a few examples of the prototypes: 50mm Blue, finished. 50mm Green prototype. 50mm Red Prototype. 25mm More 25mm Prototypes.
  22. As mentioned on my previous post, that as aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the second one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Portal or Statuary Base Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  23. As an aside from my Fire Giant Jailor WIP; I decided to do a few bases based on his for my Etsy site. Here's the first one: Broken Flagstone Courtyard Display Base You can find my original post for this on my blog: WoldStand
  24. I always found deserts to be fascinating habitats. A cursory look will leave you with the impression that it is hell on earth: sandstorms, unbearable heat during the day and freezing at nighttime. Yet, the desert is not only home to thousands of plant and animal species, it also has a simple beauty to it, dominated by the shapes the wind forms. They are thus a worthy subject for the modeler and can provide an atmospheric backdrop for our games. The exploits of the Crusaders come to mind as well as the cultures inhabiting Northern Africa, for instance the ancient Numidians. I made a number of arid terrain pieces, but this time I will show you two desert lakes or oases that are slowly drying out. Using a similar technique I also built a partially dry river bed, with only a small stream of water remaining. I will provide you with short step-by-step instructions how to make a cracked lake or river bed, but if you want to know more you can also check out a longer tutorial on my blog (given this is not a full tutorial here I put it in the show off section). The build is pretty straight forward: 1. First we use XPS or foam board to define the lake bed. 2. We apply the crackle paste. 3. We cover everything with filler or modelling paste 4. We embed the magnets/steel tacks. 5. We add sand and animal tracks. 6. We apply a basecoat and drybrush. 7. We add some brushes and a water effect. 8. We make the barren tree and add it as a final touch. A more detailed how-to can be found on DaggerAndBrush: https://daggerandbrush.wordpress.com/2018/01/19/mirage-making-a-dry-desert-lake-or-oasis/
  25. I'm trying out another river segment, built in pretty much the same way as my first one, but this time I'm using a a material that is new to me, SculptaMold from Amaco. I saw it used on Luke's APS on Youtube and liked the look of it, so I popped down and bought a bag from Gordon Harris art supplies. It cost me about twenty-two bucks for about 1.3 kg, which should be enough to do a reasonable amount of terrain. It would probably get a bit pricey if you wanted to build a whole table, but for my purposes it's OK. It's a plaster and paper (?) fibre mix; I don't know if there's anything else in there. Depending on the amount of water you use it can be mixed to a cottage cheese-like paste, as I've used it here, or to a more liquid slurry that can be cast in rubber moulds. It sets up more slowly than plain plaster; by the time I'd finished laying out the river banks and setting in all the gravel, it was still quite workable, so I slapped together a little rocky outcrop on a plastic cutting board, using some bits of pine bark and the left-over goop from the river banks. I wasn't really keeping track of time, but I'd guess that you probably have 15 to 20 minutes of working time, which is plenty for most things. When it's wet, it retains a quite knobbly cottage cheese texture, which is fine if it's going to be under flock and stuff. If you want a smoother finish though, just leave it for about another ten minutes or quarter of an hour to stiffen up a bit, and then it can be smoothed with wet fingers or modelling tools, or just with a wet soft brush. It's early days yet, but at first acquaintance I think I'm going to like it.
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