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  1. Eww, yuck. These guys would be terrible to encounter in a dungeon. The primary colors come from unthinned inks applied with a heavy hand so they start to pool. Highlights were painted with normal colors. I used yellow ink for the right-hand one, and a mix of blue and yellow for the left (I don't have green ink). The bottom side of each is painted white, which is why they are so brightly colored. Then as a final touch, hit with a heavy coat of Citadel 'ardcoat.
  2. Here we have my finished 77310: Water Weird. The plinth was worked up from a base of Peacock Green to Pure White through a succession of glazes - I was playing around with how high I could take it and have it read as stained marble. The 'gems' I left translucent and coated with Tamiya Clear Blue. The runes were picked out in Vallejo Model Air Silver, then tarnished with Black Ink. The water weird itself is three different 'strengths' of Taimiya Clear Blue. The base coat was diluted 2:1 with Tamiya Thinner. I then hit the crevices on the figure with a 1:1 dilution, and finished
  3. Edited now that I'm back home... I started this mini on Friday, and tried to do a centre-out light-to-dark translucent paint job. The Badger Freak Flex tints just beaded up in an initial coat - even when adding medium it didn't help. I had nothing to get the centre yellow without going opaque which I didn't want to do at this point. I then took my Napthol Crimson (Red) Liquitex ink and added a drop to some medium and that went on fine. I forgot that Burnt Umber is very orange, and if I'd done that first I could have tried to do something interesting with the shadows in red. Oops! Attempt
  4. My first mini from the Bones Kickstarter! I just had to do this guy. It did not photograph well, I'm afraid - a hazard of the translucent Bones. For what I did - I "primed" with Reaper Brush-on Sealer and painted the pedastal normally (sorry about the horrible mold line in pic 1, I barely noticed it when trimming.) Incidentally, I plugged the hollow in the base with some air-dry clay and glued it to a washer - this gives it some nice bottom weight. The idea behind the magical writing on the pedastal was that they were glowing blue - I decided to try and simulate this with a nice gradia
  5. I bought Tamiya clear yellow, green and orange and played around with the female bones fire elemental (77083) and the bones grave wraith (77097). The yellow/orange hardly shows at all on the red bones, but the green Tamiya clear turned out ok on the green wraith. Fire Elemental linked due to nudity: http://www.coolminiornot.com/369634?browseid=10757476 Edited to add SKU to tags.
  6. So, I'm kinda stuck on this one. I followed the first several steps I did for my nightspectre. Where I'm stuck is what to do for the skin color. Do I go a greenish vampire, vampire, dark elf, copper tan, etc? My flash makes it appear that there is more white than what there really is, also I didn't touch up the skin and definitive clothing bits so they still have a heavy white tone from the first few steps.
  7. http://www.wowminisdb.com/Sarmoth.htm Working on some ultracheap prepainted minis for practice with LED lighting before I try working with my Translucent Bonestm. 5mm blue LED taped to two AG3 392 batteries, all contained in the mini. The internal pillar of light happened because over drilling to near the top of the mini. I like the light coming from the core, rather than the upper body, even if it makes the mini look like a possessed nuclear fuel rod. Also did a Crashing Wave Spirit.
  8. These are almost done. 77009 Werewolf: the basecoat reminded me of the maroon and tan Wolverine costume from way back. I promptly got rid of that, but I wish I hadn't. I might try to bring it out a bit at the end. I did blue veins after the basecoat, but they're pretty faded now. The highlights didn't work, but it's a step. I really like the blue eyes - they're piercing... but not too visible from this picture. 77098 Spirit: I wanted to try glow in the dark paint. I based with matte medium. Then I did about 4 coats of glow in the dark paint. It takes a really long time under a lamp to get
  9. In this thread, Reaperbryan mentioned that he was having trouble getting detail when photographing the translucent Bones figures. I made some suggestions there, but I decided to do a few experiments, and this thread is the result. Principles: Transparent and translucent subjects are a bit tricky to photograph. There's an old adage* in photography that, "Light reveals; shadows define". Translucents under even light have almost no shadows, so there is no definition and thus no detail. In many ways this is similar to painting OSL or NMM. You need to put light where you need it for highlights wit
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