Search the Community

Hi all! If you'd like to add further customization to your model with decorated miniature bases...here: 'An Introduction to printing miniatures bases with a resin printer'📚 An easy-to-follow guide containing all the simple step to print round & smooth miniature bases. Plus, Freebies to download, check for their orientation and support configuration to learn how to support your own models. Let me know what do you think 😊

I expect this is going to be a long-running WIP thread. My intention is to convert this heap of vintage lead into war games armies to allow me to field forces for a variety of Tolkien situations, using only vintage Minifigs. For those who are younger than me, Minifigs produced this line of Tolkien-inspired figures starting in 1972, and, as far as we've ever been able to determine, it was the first range of specifically fantasy miniatures ever produced. They were the first that I bought as well, and I will freely admit that this is a nostalgia project. I posted a batch of finished elves this morning. Here's what I have left to do: two elf riders, an elf king to form a second command stand, 14 elf swordsmen, and 9 elf bowmen (three of whom have lost arrows and one who's been redone as a standard bearer for the command stand.) For the era of the Battle of the Five Armies, they have some dwarf allies. Here's a dozen, representing all three stock numbers that were produced. Each stock number was a strip of two. I have a batch of seven already finished and based. Minifigs did not issue any specific Lakemen, nor, for that matter, any specific Rohirrim on foot. For the Five Armies-era humans, I'll have to reach into the historical and use some figures from their NS (Norman/Saxon) range with round shields. I've got about three dozen available with which to work. They should also serve as dismounted Rohirrim when needed. Beorn and Gandalf are also available, and a token eagle... To continue with the good guys, there were two catalog numbers of actual mounted Rohirrim. I have two completed so far, and about 22 available, including a few Later Romans or similar Dark Ages figures which blend well. A few spare horses remain to be found. The Gondorians were represented by five different figures, a citadel guardsman, two rangers of Ithilien, a spearman, a swordsman, and a foot knight. I've got at least a dozen of each, plus a total of two dozen of ME53 and 54, Rangers of the North. The Dark Lord's forces can be lead by the imposing squadron of flying Nazgul, of which I have four: I have 18 wargs (plus a few already finished), but only two of the goblin riders: Large orcs came in three poses, with sword, axe or spear. I've got about 85 to be done: Smaller orcs came in four poses, a bowman, a swordsman without shield, a swordsman with shield, and a well equipped armored goblin with shield, spear and bow. Of that latter, I've only got a handful, all completed. Of the first three, I've got about seventy from a recent purchase: There is also one pose of little goblins. I finished a few of them last month. I've got more, but they are sitting in paint stripper at the moment. Sauron's human allies were represented by four poses of figures; there was a Haradrim spearman and a mounted lancer, of which I've got about 30 and 5 respectively: There was also a Southern spearman and a mounted swordsman. I only have a token 3 of the spearmen, so they won't be a unit on their own, but I do have nine of the mounted swordsmen, so they can be. Last, I have a hobbit militia of about a dozen, plus a couple of mounted hobbits. The foot hobbits came in strips of three, and one strip is much easier to find than the other... My basic plan is going to be to play these with Dragon Rampant, which generally uses units of six mounted or twelve foot figures, with provision for heroes and large monsters as exceptions. However, some of the teams will be big enough that I could use Chaos Wars (also in sixes and twelves), and I expect that an actual Battle of the Five Armies game my brother and I have been discussing will take every orc/goblin that we have painted. Edit: Ooops! Forgot the Dunlendings; there are enough of them to make a unit, and given Saruman's forces a bit of distinctiveness...

It's been 6 years since I last played a sci-fi table top game in 28mm. Wondering what is out there BESIDES 40k these days? What are you playing and/or what do you recommend? My favorite in the past were 40k 2e and Necromunda. I prefer more skirmish level, and capable of handling multiple players/sides.

Hello all! I am a very novice beginner to miniature painting, and have only been doing it for about a year or so. I feel like my skills are leveling up pretty quickly, but still need some advice. My friend is trying to coax me into pen and paper RPGs like DnD and pathfinder, and we are currently doing a pathfinder session. To add flavor to the games and because I like to feel like I'm participating, I'm working on terrain and buildings. The first building that I'm nearing completion on is Tabletop World's Mansion. Because of the large size of the model (and the hope that I'll be getting more pieces, creating a city that will look like it all came from the same forest/quarry/paint shoppe) I went to various Hardware stores and bought actual high quality building/house paint. I'm a little concerned this was a bad move, since I know model paint is specifically made for small scales. The colors for the mansion were ripped from the Winchester Mystery House photos because I love the design and colors. So the main question I have is regarding sealing. I've heard krylon matte spray can leave a sticky residue, and I want to avoid that. I was wondering what sealing spray I should use since I went with actual house paints. Because the parts where the house fits together are extremely snug, my desire is to paint on a gloss coat for the connecting parts, so when the mansion is put together/pulled apart the gloss coat will protect the paint better from rubbing off. Or will it stick together because of the gloss coat? Looking for advice on that. Finally, the wood flooring I would like to look a little more aged. I'm kind of worried about adding grey or white with dry brushing but will probably end up doing that. The wood color was a brown paint I had mixed up at the hardware store, so I figured I would brush some burnt umber over it and then go with some kind of gray and then white for the aged look. This is almost finished, I'm very much a "good enough" worker and hobbyist, and so long as it looks decent on the table I'll be happy. I could certainly obsess over the tiny details for the next 10 years, but I like my sanity. Looking for some advice on the sealing/aging wood though! Thank you for reading my post. Sorry about the length.

This is my latest terrain piece for my tabletop games, a small gorge. It's about 300 x 150 mm, and at its deepest the gorge is about 30 mm deep. It's not wide enough for vehicles in any scale larger than 6mm or 10-12mm. Maybe a jeep in 15mm, certainly nothing larger. There's just enough of a bend in it that you can't see right through from end to end. I suspect that the rock formations would make geologists clench their fists and grind their teeth, but fortunately, I'm not a geologist.

So here's my final for this unexpected snow day. Three stands go to the Dux Bellorum project, which I hope to play with this weekend, and the two on the right are part of the vintage Minifigs Middle Earth war bands project. As the Soviets are supposed to have said, quantity has a quality of its own...

Some time ago I bought a whole lot of plastic trees from China to make wargaming terrain with. I've finally got around to making a start on basing some of them. The bases are 3mm MDF, the brown forest floor is real dead leaves munched up in a little ten dollar coffee grinder, and the grass is old-school sawdust flock. Lurking in under the trees behind the Lanchester armoured car is a 15mm British wireless operator, but so good is his camouflage that you can't really see him. They're not the most realistic terrain pieces ever made, but considering that the trees cost me about fifteen cents each, and everything else was basically free, I'm pretty happy with the results. This is about a fifth of the whole bunch, so I've still got a bit of work ahead of me.

Here's an old Medieval wargaming miniature from the 1980s, produced by Essex Miniatures. Essex were among the first to start producing larger scale 28mm miniatures, although they actually advertised them as 25mm. Up until then, 25mm had been the standard, and Essex armies towered over their opponents on the wargames table. Basing systems had been designed for 25mm figures too, so Essex figures tended to be very crowded on bases designed for the smaller scale. They tended towards rather caricatured, cartoonish features, but I always rather liked them, except for their horses which looked a bit small and spindly underneath their gigantic riders. Eventually they also started producing 15mm miniatures which were also excellent, and a lot more affordable than larger scale armies.

So I'm trying to finally get my undead army built and hopefully primed. I've got in the realm of 200 miniatures to assemble, and it's my first time really dealing with multi-part minis since up until now 99.5% of my collection has been Bones. Some of them I've already assembled over the last week, some of them I partially assembled about a month or so ago, but most of them are still on their sprues. It's going to be a real experience for me. I'm already running into issues with storage for the assembled ones. The plastic doesn't seem to take well to being thrown in a box. Some of the minis have suffered damage that way. Anyone have any advice on how to store and transport them in a relately cheap manner? *sigh* My phone camera didn't auto-orient the pictures, so they're all upside down...

Just finished this lance (plus 1) and thought I would show it around a bit. To see more detail photo's of the individual mechs please go to IB Studios Battletech Support Lance plus 1 Questions and comments are always welcome. Thank you my friends.

Nuclear Plant is the first piece and series of pieces I will be making for my wargaming endeavors. The idea of my pieces are that they will have multiple pieces: So instead of, "The building is now destroyed" and you remove it from the game board, you replace it with the completely destroyed version. On top of that, the constructed piece will have removable bits so it shows a change-over-time. I like a good atmosphere when I play. This piece I had in the back of my head during Thanksgiving last year. My sister-n-law made these desserts that came in these squarish cups. I turned them upside down and the follow is what I saw. Supplies: Squarish dessert Cups Cologne Sample bottles (from Mary Kay) Plastic card from an Electrical sign off a construction site Old plastic sprues from Gundam model. Woodland Scenic Realistic Water. and finally, the top antenna piece: a flow control piece from a faucet.

I was just wondering if any of you all were going to be going to the Fall-In wargaming convention in Lancaster PA, Nov 6th-8th? http://www.fall-in.org I'll be there all weekend in the Paradise room running games with the HAWKs, and Sunday I'll be in the flea market. Stop by and say 'Hi' if you're there.

These are being done by on of the folks I know from Dakkadakka and look pretty cool for those if us who like to bling up our games now live on KS https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1388589874/modcube-part-tokens-part-dice-fully-modular the ModCube is a gaming aid which enables you to keep 6 common gaming tokens on a single cube, and quickly rotate between these tokens. Token designs are made to be compatible with the most popular sci-fi wargames, starting with Dogfight and Vehicle Damage cubes (note the cubes shown are 3d printed prototypes) You can see a few more on the website and facebook page: http://www.modcube.com http://www.facebook.com/themodcube Molding of the ModCube is being done in China, with first production samples expected in April. All lasercut acrylic panels will be produced in the USA, enabling us to quickly put out new releases as games update and change! RiTides will be showing off the ModCube at AdeptiCon with the help of a few other members of Dakka. Come and check out the booth if you are attending, He will also be unveiling one more new ModCube design before AdeptiCon - a cube compatible with Infinity! active comments are ongoing at http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/638434.page a closer look at the 2 colour acrylic use to make the individual panels

One hundred years ago this year, in 1913, science fiction author H.G. Wells wrote Little Wars: a game for boys from twelve years of age to one hundred and fifty and for that more intelligent sort of girl who likes boys' games and books, which was the beginning of modern tabletop wargaming. So happy 100th anniversary to the hobby. The entire book is available free on Project Gutenberg (bless 'em): http://www.gutenberg.org/files/3691/3691-h/3691-h.htm