Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'WiP'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Reaper Discussion
    • News
    • Reaper General & Faq's
    • Reaper's Product Lines
    • ReaperCon
    • Reaper Virtual Expo
  • Reaper Social
    • Exchanges and Contests
    • Birthdays!
    • Socializing
  • Painting
    • Show Off: Painting
    • Works in Progress: Painting
    • Tips & Advice: Painting
    • Shutterbug
    • Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques
  • Sculpting, Conversion, and Terrain
    • Show off: Sculpts, Conversion, Terrain.
    • Works in Progress: Sculpts, Conversion, Terrain.
    • Tips and Advice: Sculpting
    • Tips and Advice: Conversion
    • Tips and Advice: Terrain
    • Tips and Advice: 3-D printing
    • Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
  • General Discussion
    • General Fantasy
    • General Sci-Fi
    • General Modern / Historical
    • Kickstarter
    • Off-Topic Rampancy
  • The Sandbox
    • The Gathering
    • The Playing
    • Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses
  • Reaper Games
    • CAV
    • Warlord

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. While I was painting my Barros & Tempest exchange mini I snapped a few pics to do a WIP with. I may have been overenthusiastic to start and a little forgetful towards the end, but I think I captured the bulk of the process. My plan is to post the images in bulk, so while it'll be broken up into a few posts I should have it all posted after lunch. I cropped and resized the images down to a height of 1000px to keep the filesize under control, but you can still see plenty of gory details once you open them in the image viewer. To start, this is what Reaper sends you as part of the Borros & Tempest set. There is a lot of metal here, almost half a pound. Of course, you're not going to use it all so there will be some things left over for the bits box. Looking at the boneyard, the spear is available separately but the shield comes with a body so you'll always have something extra. And here's what I won't be using. The bones goroloth (sp?) didn't come with a stand so I may re-purpose that at a later date. The idea was to have Tempest leaping off of the side of a cliff. Cork = rock so often that it was what I started with, only thinking about carving some scrap wood well after the fact. Because I was worried about the heavy mini tearing the cork out I compromised and set it back from the edge a bit. After pushing the first nail through and getting an idea of where the mini would have to be in relation, I just eyeballed the second one. Measuring is overrated. And behold Borros and Tempest completely done it TMM! Ok ok, so this was just making sure all my pins lined up. I also used milliput slurry in a few places and built up an apparent missing chunk in the leg. While I never took any pics, the underside of the mount was very rough and also had a hole where the stand would have attached. This all got filled in, but between the hanging cloth and limited viewing angle it was basically all done in solid shadow colors. And now for paint! Orange and purple were the requested colors. While I don't approve of orange, purple is a nice color. I wasn't going to paint a purple horse though. Some areas that would eventually become steel were undercoated in charcoal, as well as the eyes & hooves. The gold was undercoated with ochre so I wouldn't have to worry about coverage issues with it either. My new Scalecolor Wood & Leather set had recently arrived, and the saddle seemed as good a test subject as any. So far I am liking its basic leather look, though I really haven't tried much of the wood or red leather yet. I hadn't actually painted anything equine yet, so I didn't actually know where highlights and shadows go just by looking. Instead I just used logicTM and followed along with the sculpted muscles. And now I'm getting hungry, so that it all you get until after lunch.
  2. I'm just getting started on this, posting a new thread to motivate me to stay on top of things. Internet is a bit slow today, so hopefully I'm not straying too far from the new guidelines. I'll post pictures when my internet is better The Orc Berseker will be an experinent in the Ollie Kickflip layering/blending method... so the reverse of my other orcs. I'm also using different colours for the skin - a more olive-y scheme. I'm going to base him the same way as my other orcs, all at the same time, so I'll probably do a show-off thread with all of them. The Tiik warrior will be a tester for some ideas for my Kraken from the Bones II kickstarter. Incidentally, somewhat similar to the paint job for the tiik champion. The Ranger Michelle, is a mini I'm painting for my gf, her colour scheme on request. The Ferocious feline is inspired by our cat Moose (who you can see in my avatar). Considering my schedule, I think I will be lucky to finish these this year, but I really hope I can.
  3. Today, I'm going to try to get this guy painted up. I have the entire day/evening to do so and I need to get it done before Saturday so I can give it to one of my D&D buddies who is going to use it as a PC in another game (a small commission and I'm giving him a discount as a friend). He's requested it be a bit above tabletop with a weapon swap (so Tabletop+ is what I'm going for). I want to try to get it painted all up in 4-5 hours. Name: Shoanti Barbarian Manufacturer: Reaper Miniatures SKU: 60115 Sculpted by: Gene Van Horne I've already got him on his base, primed up, and weapon converted over from his big Earth Breaker to a big 2-handed Axe. I already have about 30-45 minutes into him for the prepping, weapon swap, priming, and basing. Images are pretty big, so I'm spoilering them. I'm going to quickly prime the base and let it dry while I grab some lunch, then I'm going to get to work on him in ernest.
  4. So the theme of today is "Does SigmaOne need a highlighting intervention?" I started this guy a couple of weeks ago, mostly because I didn't care about the figure that much (at first) and I haven't done a mini in a while, so I wanted something to brush-up with. Now I care enough that I want it too look decent. The skin is (was?) intended to be complete, aside from cleaning up its border. I felt pretty good about the highlighting and shading of the skin the day I did it. Coming back to it two weeks later I see a few things that certainly should be touched up, but I'm wondering whether or not it works at all. I'd be happy for any gentle advice. Now that I've got some pigments on it, I think this is a sculpt with a ton of character, and I like it quite a bit. I hope I can do it some justice. I wish my skills were commensurate with my standards, one way or the other. Thanks for looking.
  5. Ok, Rather than Have 4-5 WIP's running at once, I decided to combine several in one. Also a (probable) vain attempt to force myself to try to get projects done more quickly. So here are the model's I intend to work on. Those I've already started: Those I plan to start:
  6. 14391: Overlords Onyx Phalanx Not sure on the direction I want to go on this one. Right now I am working with 2 different colors: Gunmetal for the main armor and Honed Silver for the highlights, etc. I may end up tinting the metal, but i'll cross that bridge later. Suggestions would - as always - very much welcome, seriously I would appreciate peer review style comments! Here is two different lighting for a start comparison.
  7. Here we have Dana Murphy, which I plan to enter in the Year of the Giants contest and hopefully Spaceship Superstar if I can get her done in time. The face is basecoated + wash, the eyes are done, and I put down the yellow base coat of her jumpsuit. I will be giving her a yellow and black color scheme.
  8. This is Bones version of Nienna, Elf Ranger. Most ranger figures I've seen are painted green or brown, but I thought I'd go for an autumn theme and paint her in red/orange/yellow/brown. I started by painting the cloak a rusty burghundy, including all the highlights and shadows as if that was the final paint job. Then I started painting a freehand patchwork leaf pattern. Each leaf is painted individually, which takes a devilishly long time, I've come to discover. This is going to take a long time to finish. And right now she's at one of the those early stages when I can't stand what I'm working on and think it looks terrible. I've been there so many times before, though, that I will push myself to just keep going, in the hopes it will all turn out right in the end. Here she is so far:
  9. I have a bag of Secret Weapon skulls. I have tamiya clear red. All minis worked on for the spring/summer will have blood and skulls. Because I do what I want. Both from Bones I. Primed in green liner. I don't know if they will be green, but that is the color liner I used. Once again I will be attempting to use the Wappel method on both minis.
  10. I don't really know. But, I had an idea for a diorama for next year's R-con. Basically I took a skeleton dragon and put it in a swamp. It's rising out of the swamp, and the swamp and the mud is still attached to some of the wing. I don't know is it a bad idea?
  11. And here we go.... My eyes were getting tired by the time I got to the drybrushing so not sure how it turned out. I will see as soon as I grab the pic to put in this post. Step 1: Step 2: Step 3 & 4: So it looks like I may need to go over it again with white to bring out a bit more highlight before I start on the bow, quiver, and grass. Hopefully I can continue with this in the next day or two and finish him up.
  12. 60101: Kiramor the Forest Shadow Sculpted by Bobby Jackson Secondary priming on the skin with Linen White: 09061. Added 3 drops of Flow Improver. Then used a Vallejo Elf Skin, 2;1 Flow Improver. In several layers until it was right. Lastly, washed in Flesh Wash: 09253. This was first done broadly, then after it dried I would reapply to lower sections of the muscles.​I still need to darken and go over with a lightened Elf Skin on the raised areas. Then re-blend. Going to work on the eyes next, Mocha has inspired me to attempt the eyes she just did on Noreth Skyblade.
  13. I've been hearing about Scale75 paints for awhile now, and after watching Willen's video I put them on my Christmas list. No one bought them for me though, so I had to go and pick them up myself. To start I decided to go with their Flesh set. Overall I like my Vallejo, but some of their skintones look a little orange to my eyes. Of course I can mix what I want, but a little variety is never a bad thing. Their sets also come with a small painting guide. If it wasn't for having four languages on it, the guide could have been printed on an index card. It's not going to outdo Willen's video, but here's my little unboxing. Aside from the paint you'll notice some tape and a pin vise. The tape is a little trick I learned at work; it keeps cheap ink from rubbing off of bottles. There's no point in covering the whole thing, but a strip over what's important can save some confusion later. Interestingly enough, the labels on a $3 bottle of paint are not really higher quality than those on a $180 bottle of similar size. While the bottles themselves are not as rounded as the Vallejo ones they do use essentially the same tip, with one important difference. The Scale75 is not drilled out at the factory. If you take the cap off and squeeze it'll be a bit messy. Vallejo's openings are about 1.5mm, while Reaper's are about 1.2mm. I actually like the slightly smaller opening so these got drilled to 1.2mm. Now that I have some new paint, I need something to try it out on. At first I was thinking bones, but I've already painted most of these in the box that were showing a bit of skin. Then I remembered that I had the Kingdom Death Pinups box just gathering dust on my shelf. Pinups it is! Back in like Jr high I used to do a bit of modeling. While most of what I had from back then is long gone, I did still have a bottle of polystyrene glue that I'd kept. Does this stuff last for 20 years? There's one way to find out! That's right, cut a couple of ends off the sprues and glue them together. It made a nice bond so on to the first mini. I didn't fully assemble the Twilight Knight simply because that cape was going to get in the way of painting. She'll be painted in two sections and then glued together at the end. Drilling out for pinning isn't really necessary but I went ahead and made a hole in the body just so I didn't have to worry about clipping my paperclip holder off completely flush. I also drilled out her heels so I could pin her to whatever I end up using as a base. Now for a color scheme. I don't really follow the fluff for KD, but I though the colors on the included card were kind of boring. Since she's a twilight night she should have twilight colors! A quick search turned up a few that I liked. At first I was thinking the first image, but now I'm leaning more towards the second. To start, the cape. It's the single largest item on the mini so I decided to go with blue. Now I'm not going to paint a sunset on it or anything, but I am thinking about a dark to light transition on it. I based it with the appropriately named Night Blue, but in the process discovered that it wasn't a good choice due to it being a bit transparent. Lesson learned for next time, but for now after many layers I have something to start from. And now, time to watch more football.
  14. Got this cute little fellow in the mail the other day. Never painted anything this big, and wanted to show my progress and experiences. First I glued him together. Was really surprised about the fact that it wasn't actually necessary to use glue, yet I did it just in case. Then applied some green stuff in the cracks. The black stain on the base is me testing the rumor about washes not sticking to bones. And that was true. Luckily the rumor about mixing dish soap in the paint, to fix it, was also true. Never painted with dish soap before, so that was.. interesting. So then I covered him in a basecoat of gloss varnish, before I painted white over the green stuff, and gave him a nice wash of dark, purple ink. Once that was almost dry, I started adding a dark blue wash: Painted in the flesh, bones and eye. Also applied a drybrush of dark blue: One more drybrush and pondering on how to continue the wings: Edit: This capable young lady will be the rider:
  15. So, I've been working on my pathfinder red dragon, but I really loved the clouded sea color that I bought at reapercon... SO I decided he should be a sea dragon!!! After some googling, and my Michael Proctor Kick-elf colors class, this is the color scheme I've decided on. I've obviously got some further shading and cleaning up to do ( I ordered the rest of the clear colors I needed to clean transitions and whatnot), but what do y'all think of the color overall? Is there some other pattern I should try on the scales? I'm painting Kyra and Lavarath next, so I'm trying to get my scale game on point. I feel like maybe adding a dark line next to my light line down the middle would make it pop more. I'm thinking I'll do the undersides of the wings the same way I did the belly scales, with a pinky-purple shading. (New lights for new lightbox should be in this week, then beautiful pictures will be had!) Enjoy, and seriously, gimme some critique!!
  16. I don't want to lose momentum after finishing the previous WIP project, I'm starting another right away. This time, I'm doing something "smaller": the Bones Large Earth Elemental. Just to get started, I attached the arms and head to painting sticks (repurposed chopsticks) with a hot glue gun, and then primed them with a spray of thinned FolkArt Multi-Surface Acrylic (Bark Brown). While that dried, I turned to choosing a color to paint it. My paint box contained both Redstone Highlight and Redstone Shadow, and I thought it would be neat to paint the elemental to look like he was made from desert rocks. But I didn't have the Redstone mid-tone. I debated how long it would take to order that color and get it in the mail; I didn't want to wait, so I gave up the idea and painted it grey instead. No, I lie. I just mixed the two together to make a mid-tone and based the elemental with that: (Wow, the fluorescent lamp sure made that color look pink!) And that's it for tonight!
  17. It's been a short while, but I'm back with another project. This time around, I'm going to tackle this guy: 77116 Bones Colossal Skeleton. This'll be an interesting paint project for me, because I won't be able to depend on using an airbrush as much as I did for painting Kaladrax. I'll be out of my comfort zone and trying a lot of techniques that are new to me. There's a large gap where the skeleton's torso connects to the waist -- I could use an epoxy putty, but there's been something I wanted to try for a while: Alteco SSP-HG Instant Adhesive Putty, a two-part gap-filling compound that's meant for filling seams on vinyl and plastic models. I got this product mail order, and of course there's no English instructions -- it's all in Japanese. Fortunately, my S.O. was able to puzzle out some of the Kanji for me. The package comes with a large round jar filled with "micro-balloons" (a white powdery substance!), two bottles of a thin, slow-setting CA, a smaller bottle of "flex agent" -- it's supposed to make the compound less brittle (the translation was unclear) -- a measuring spoon and mixing knife, and a few plastic-coated sheets of paper for mixing on. The instructions were 12 drops of CA per spoonful of micro-balloons, but I didn't need that much, so I halved the recipe. As you can see, the mixture starts out slightly goopy, and apparently has a working time of about 2-4 minutes. I iced the connecting pin and area around it with the mixture and jammed it into the slot. Then I wiped the excess off with a q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner (it doesn't appear to attack Bones). Finally I added in a bit more and teased it with an X-Acto blade tip as it firmed to disguise the seam. Not too shabby... Quick summary review of the SSP-HG: On the plus side, it works quickly and it sticks and holds firmly to the model, and it sands and carves fairly well once dry. On the minus side, it's initially goopy enough that you can't sculpt it like green stuff, it dries to a rough surface, and it appears to be fairly brittle when dry, though i could try the flex agent for that. Its best use appears to be for filling gaps and sanding smooth afterwards. Not that it matters much, anyway; I went online to look it up, and it appears to be long out of production. I'm glad now that I kept the CA in the refrigerator. Finally, I put a base coat of paint on the model. Once again, I experimented with another product I had heard about but hadn't tried: Multi-surface acrylic craft paint. It's a fair bit more expensive than regular craft paint. The brand I tried was FolkArt, since I heard it sticks well to plastic, though I suppose you could use Martha Stewart brand, since both brands are manufactured by Plaid Crafts. It's too thick to be used straight out of the bottle, so I thinned it with a generic ammonia window cleaner mixed with water until milk-like in consistency and airbrushed it onto the model, using several light misting coats (drying between each coat) so it didn't run. As you can see, it goes on fairly glossy. What you can't see is how well it adheres. I usually try a "scratch test" on anything I base coat with. This paint passes with flying colors -- I was only able to remove a little of it by scratching hard enough to damage the underlying plastic. This paint sticks to Bonesium at least as well as Liquitex gesso. (I only wish I had purchased Burnt Umber instead of Bark Brown.) Next time, I'll start painting on some Reaper colors, and see how well they stick to this base coat.
  18. This year my husband got me some resin terrain from Itar's Workshop, including some sci-fi pieces. One of these is IWS-IND-003, "Engine" and one of them is IWS-IND-001, "Power Generator", but I can't recall which is which. Here they are with Reaper's Dee Dee, Astro Girl, for scale. Please pardon my ignorance. I don't know know if these are true-to-life or pure fantasy, so I decided to paint them how I liked. I didn't take pictures for the earliest stages. First I primed them with titanium white (Golden matte fluid acrylics) with a very little flow improver added. Typically I wash over this with burnt umber to bring out details before painting. But for these pieces I wanted elements to glow as if lit from within. I have found that lighting effects work better over a pure white base, so I added them before the umber wash. One of them is going to have a cold, green glow, like fluorescent lights. The other has a shaded violet glow from above. Both have a bit of warm gold light. The mixes are simple. The green was just a touch of phthalocyanine green with titanium white. The violet is the same with the addition of some quinacridone magenta. The yellow is simply yellow iron oxide with white. (Reaper colors = Clear Green (almost), Pure White, Clear Magenta (probably), Palomino Gold) Anything painted on white looks deeper than it is. These colors are pretty light, and to show how light, here's my half-painted Reaper frost giant next to one of the resin pieces. For the last preparation step I washed some burnt umber over the pieces, brushing only lightly over the lighted areas to leave the recesses brightly colored. I may have missed a cranny here or there which I will fix as I go along.
  19. EDIT: As per the new rules, I needed a theme to keep this thread going. Thanks to RB's clarification the theme can actually be nice and broad, so I am back to painting up the heroes and villains (and mooks) that I can make use of when I am running a game. Alas, that means I can't post any space marines or any of those kits that are the size of a small child. Fortunately, I don't own any of those either. Now that I have a few minis under my belt, it seems to be a good time to start a WIP of my own. Of course, for my first entry I stopped to take pictures but not to post them so here it comes all at once. So far, every mini I've painted has been Caucasian or something completely fantastic, so for today's mini I decided to try something new - dark African skin. For the sacrifice I have chosen 77134 Hajad as he has two excellent qualifications: a) lots of exposed skin, and b) he's a pirate and thus will probably never be used at my group's table. Whether the paint job turns out good or bad, he will spend his days residing in a drawer somewhere. For a first attempt I wanted to try something simple so I went with the simplest recipe I've seen - basecoat in black and then highlight up to dark fleshtone. And here we go. I started with pure black and layered my way up to the fleshtone, undercoating some metal along the way. He's probably still a little too dark, but any more highlighting will have to be selective or else he will get too light. Pirates like bright clothes, but there's not much of the vest showing from the front so here's the back. Red is a popular choice for pirates because it doesn't show blood. Note that bright clothing is the requirement; color coordination is optional for pirates. The sash is a little flat, but I already know how to fix that thanks to the Trista I painted earlier. I am simply choosing to be lazy. The wood is also a little to close in color to his skin, but that can be fixed. I tried an off-white for the pants, but it didn't turn out as I would have liked. However, since I have no plans to actually use him for anything there's no need to take the time and repaint them a different color. I also stopped darkening the leather bracers before they really started to blend in. They already do a bit more than I would have liked. Hypno-Pirate... Obey me!!! Put down a few layers of dark metallics as a base for the steel. Right. I kinda just slapped paint on here and there to finish him up. Well he was just for practice, so good job Hajad! Now to take some decent pictures... Tips, tricks, and constructive comments welcome!
  20. Alright I want to see what everyone's working on base-wise, even if it's some simple, basic (ha! see what I did there?) stuff. Let's share the bases we are working on. First, I'll show you a couple of the ones I did recently. This was nothing special but one of my first attempts at sculpting any kind of base. Attempted to be some sort of stone/cobblestone street. Just some flattened out milliput then with one of my little clay tools carved in the stones. After it dried, filled it with some white glue and some GF9 grass. Next, I was trying to make some appropriate bases for the cultists I'm currently working on. After finishing all four of these, I decided they weren't "evil" enough and am trying other options. Also, it took me about 3 different iterations of various peoples marble tutorials to get anywhere with painting marble. Not sure if links are okay, but you can search for centerpiece miniatures painting marble bases. I translated the colors they used from citadel to the MSP and am fairly pleased. These were certainly a lot more realistic and a lot more consistent than the multiple attempts at marble I had made prior. Of course, now I have no one to put them on, but I'm sure something will come up. I also struggled to find the appropriate coating for them. Initially a tried a gloss coat thinking it would make it look like a nice shiny marble floor but the coating still dried 'too thin' as in it didn't seem to have the depth I wanted, and also just crazy shiny instead of looking polished. So then I sprayed them with testors and that's why they look all flat now. Alright, now your turn! Show me what you're working on!
  21. I'm tossing down the gauntlet again! Same thing as the last thread I opened up for the DSM Stephanie Law figures. This is a GROUP/OPEN thread for all the awesome figures that Tre "Trebeard" Manor has sculpted for his line through kickstarters Looking forward to painting mine when they are in hand and I really hope to see others posting in here their WIP for these wonderfully sculpted figures. Please NO CHATTER outside of these figures, lets keep it to the figures themselves and questions about them if we need help/feedback from each other. Let's do this! ETA: Changed title, lets make it any of Trebeard's sculpts from any/all his Kickstarters as not all of us have gotten in on all 5 thus far.
  22. I plan on taking a bit of time on this one. I already completed 2 of 4 minis for my goal for April I hope blocking the nipples makes this family friendly? I guessed as long as they were blocked it was ok since I gave her a digital bikini I'm still struggling with contrast. I feel like if I go too far it looks silly, but when I think it looks "ok" it photographs looking all one color. http://housebathory.tumblr.com/
  23. I'm painting the 5 Bones Black Orcs for my D&D game, and I figured I'd try a few different combinations of color to achieve some different skintones for each orc. I thought I'd show them here along with the color choices in case it's useful to anyone else, and so I can refer back to it if I ever end up needing to paint another greenskin. The photo quality isn't great, and of course, my painting skills are rudimentary, but I think the pictures are good enough that the differences in color should be visible. With each of these figures I tried to work from shadows and layer up to highlights. Everything started with a wash of brown liner before putting on basecoats. The Orc Sniper was done with a Military Green basecoat, which seemed too bright to start from, so I applied a 2:1 water:brown ink wash to deepen the shadows. Then Military green again, skipping some of the deeper recesses, progressively adding drops of Camoflage Green for higher highlights until I was working with near-pure Camoflage Green, and then finally a drop of Bloodless Skin to the mix (diluted heavily with water and glazing medium. Bloodless skin can be very opaque) The Orc Marauder was done with a straightup triad. Olive Shadow, Olive Drab, Olive Highlight. At the very end I may have added a drop of Bloodless Skin to the Olive Highlight to do the final highlight. The Orc Hunter was probably the most unusual attempt for me. The red-brown shadows are on the other side of the color wheel from the yellow-green highlights, which I guess is a thing that a person can do for shadow effects. He was basecoated in Mahogany Brown, and layers of Muddy Olive, and Olive Green were put over top. I think it's a neat finished effect, and I'll probably play areound with it more in the future. I just now realized that I forgot to paint his hands. The Orc Stalker was supposed to be an attempt at a grey-green orc. Basecoated with Dusky Skin Shadow, followed by 1:1 Dusky Skin:Ghoul Skin, and then 1:1 Dusky Skin Highlight:Moldy Skin. Ultimately it just looks grey to me, which I will keep, but in the future I might attempt to mix a more vibrant green with the dusky skin colors. Kavorgh is probably the one I was most pleased with. He is Basecoated with Brown Liner, with Uniform Brown and Green Ochre for highlights. I was very surprised to see the final result reading as green, given that the highlight colors are a kind of swampy beige in the bottle.
  24. It's been awhile! I haven't had a lot of time to paint, sadly, between taking 18 hours this semester and working full time, on top of starting up a blog, trying to maintain some semblance of a social life, and sleeping somewhere in there. Trista here I used in a game a few times over the past couple of weeks. She's still not done, despite having hit the table before. In my bi-weekly D&D game, she's a stand in for Astra Garou, a werewolf paladin of the goddess Luna. The game is a homebrew one in a setting I've been making up for several months now. It's going well! Astra here got the party to help her wipe out a castle full of evil werewolves. Only one PC got infected. She got cured tonight. Anyway, enough blabbering. ON WITH THE PICTURES!
×
×
  • Create New...