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  1. [Edited to reflect a thread split.] After seeing some of the incredible WIPs here, I wanted to try doing some of my own. So, I decided to start with something simple: Kaladrax! Over the Christmas holidays, I went over and trimmed and sanded all the mold lines from the model. Kaladrax's details are rather soft, but that was an advantage here, as I didn't have to worry much about losing any detail as I trimmed. The base was annoying to clean up. Every time I looked, there was another mold line I missed. The spine cleanup was a multi-day nightmare. Remember, always cut away from your hand. I was lucky this time, as I just poked myself only enough to draw blood. Personally, I sometimes think that a big project isn't really underway until I've anointed it with blood. Let's hope this isn't enough to rouse an ancient dracolich from aeons of slumber. That brings us to tonight: puttying and priming. When I boiled the parts to reshape them, the torso halves came apart. It was what I was planning to do, since there was a big gap between them. I've taken the opportunity to fill the gap with putty. I'm using Tamiya Epoxy Putty, since it's what I have on hand. It's designed for resin and styrene models, but should work here. I haven't used Green Stuff, but I expect it works the same as this: Trim two equal pieces from each stick, then fold them together until they're blended. Keep it wet while you're working it, to keep it from sticking to your hands. It's workable for about 1/2 hour or more before it begins to harden, and takes more than a day to fully cure. I made a long string of putty, then wrapped it around the outside of the torso seam. I then ran a bead of AC glue (super glue) around the inside, and on the inner alignment studs. I quickly jammed them together and squeezed them together with a few clamps, and set it aside until the AC set. There were a few lines and holes to fill on the model, particularly a large injection hole in the middle of the head (above, left) and a meet line or two on the base (above, right), where the Bones material cooled lightly before meeting, leaving a seam. Normally, I'd leave it as a crack in the stone, but since it overlaps a carved crack, I felt it had to go. I jammed putty into the gaps, then smoothed it over again and again with a putty knife, until the only material left was in the gaps. The head especially is too soft for this, and I had to add material back into the hold several times until I could smooth the hole over properly without leaving a depression. I'll deal with any surface roughness after it hardens. Back to the torso. I removed the clamps and trimmed the squeezed out putty away. Look! No gaps! I even sculpted a bit of rib past where it just ends on the casting, as you can see in the background two photos up. Now I just leave it to harden, which in this cold weather, may take two or more days. For the rest of the parts, I washed them and taped over the parts that will be glued together. Then I primed them with Liquitex Neutral Gray Gesso, as I expect the model to be painted in a mix of light and dark colors. This stuff shrinks as it dries and leaves a very smooth surface to paint on. (Also, you can never have enough clamps.) I had some trouble with the hydrophobic nature of Bones, and for this model at least I was seeing some serious beading. It's been rather hit and miss before, so I tried something different. Remembering an old science experiment about surface tension and water beading, I dumped a generous amount of gesso onto my mixing surface, then just barely touched the bristles of a wet mixing brush to a drop of dish soap -- the tiniest of smidgens. I then worked this thoroughly into the gesso, and painted it onto the model. Much, much less beading! I was left with a secondary problem -- more paint bubbles -- but that was as easy to solve as blowing on the gesso, and could be solved in the future by using a touch of liquid dishwasher detergent instead. It remains to be seen if this affects the primer adhesion. And that's a good place to leave off tonight, as all this dries.
  2. Hey there everyone, I guess I will share some of my WIPs as well. Finished pieces can be found here: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52249-oobackes-speed-painting-corner/ Thanks for viewing!
  3. I decided I would create a WIP thread, because I've painted a whole bunch of minis since my first posts, but just haven't had the chance to post the photos I've taken along the way. I'm not going to post those ones (unless requested), but I'm hoping to take advantage of my impending down time in a few weeks. I also hope to post more regularly with a thread to manage. So here's the next batch of minis I'm working on. Another werewolf: this one a grey one Another translucent ghost: this one I just want to try a quick drybrush in ashen blue the bones ghost and the LTPK 4 models I figure the werewolf will be faster a second time around, and both the ghosts will be relatively quick, leaving me time for the lining experiments. I have another dozen or so minis on hand for when that's done.
  4. Hey, folks! Those of you who attended Reapercon in 2013 may recognize this miniature, which was sold there, but has not yet been released for general purchase. It was sculpted by my good friend, Andy Pieper, who very kindly sent me one of them to paint. I have a WIP going in my blog, but these boards will give it more visibility. It is a truly beautiful figure that I want to share. You can read more about how Andy sculpted Coraline Thadington, Victorian Lady on his website. I wanted the base to fit the Victorian era of the mini, so I thought a formal garden path would work. The block will eventually be painted all black. The brick is plasticard, and the border is a piece of a coffee stirrer. The flowers are premade basing materials from my box o' stuff. I polished the mini using my Dremel with a brass-bristle brush. This saved me a lot of work with sandpaper, and didn't damage the fine details at all. I still had to do some hand filing of a couple mold lines and sanding of a rough patch on her face, but overall it was a very clean casting. The arm was difficult to pin, but not the worst I've ever had to do. I started by basecoating the dress with a very pale blue, then shading with navy and rust brown. I worked on the blues some more, using a mix of Clear Blue, a rust brown, and black for the shading, and a mix of white and True Blue for highlights. I also painted the bricks, because I didn't like looking at them unpainted. :-) I smoothed out the blues some more, using a minty greenish paint Reaper sent me as a free MSP sample with my last order of brush-on primer. I mixed that with white, and blended in the highlights, using some straight from the bottle to smooth down do the truer blue, then working the shadows with my previous shade mix. I started on her skin, using shades of pink, khaki/white, and pure white, and painted her hair chestnut brown, shaded with brown liner. I also painted the lace with khaki/white and pure white. I haven't decided what to do with the fan yet. What you see is just experimental coloring. I'm exploring some freehand ideas for the dress as well, though I might paint the eyes first.
  5. So for the Dragon challenge I decided to tackle this dragon we bought back when Grenadier was still in business. Just a little over a month to go still, I think I am cutting it close.... Here is a picture of the box, I really like that paint job, so I am going to try to emulate it. And here are all the pieces: Two weeks ago, trimming flash and getting the pins ready. Husband is handling the pinning for me. Here's is a not so flattering pic of what we glued that weekend (turkey dragon):
  6. Hello! I'm Ravenscroft! I've been sitting on these Bones minis for quite a while now and finally got a round toit, so I gotta paint 'em, right? It's kinda relaxing, being able to focus and see as colour fills gaps... Even if apparently I need to go back to kindergarden since I can't paint in the lines sometimes. Either way! WIP! My first mini painting attempt! I've watched a lot of tutorials and read a bunch of stuff on how I should set up my workstation and whatnot. I use a wet palette made from a blister pack, water, a kitchen sponge, and parchment paper on top. I have gater clips to hold the mini so it won't smudge. Most tutorials suggest starting with a big mini, so details aren't as much a worry. Well, I've got Kaladrax! ...But he's too big, methinks, so I went with a golem of fairly big Medium size instead. Lots of the same colour, fairly simple pose, no weird crevasses and corners... Ideal as a starting point, I think. My aim was to make it a smaller Iron Golem, so I went with a silver-ish paint I had (I'm not going to be mixing weird colours on my first attempt, I'm well-read, but a lot of theory is only good when you've got the practical backing it up, my hands are newbie-shakey doing this as is). ...It looks a lot nicer in-person than on cell-phone-cam... Even with the whole newbie element involved. So... Basecoat: And because that looks really plain, we've got two more colours: Ongoing advice, tips, suggestions, supportive words appreciated. ...He looks kinda like a Pro-Wrestler Golem... Kinda want to paint the bracers and hands red now, but it would be silly... ...And after typing that... You know what? It's my first mini, it's allowed to look silly. So here it is after the first base coatings, before touching up and fixing and tapping on the bits that bled paint to other bits and bits my hand smudged... Not that bad from the back for the lines, shame most folks will see the front. (Things used: 09053 Honed Steel, 09051 New Gold, 09016 Sapphire Blue, 09003 Blood Red. Start simple, right?) Things I ask for learning so far: 1) I keep hearing about colour wheels, and I know the wheel itself, but they talk about using it with some sort of triangulation to find ideal colour matches, is there a place I can find a tutorial on that, by the by? 2) Also, is there some sort of convention for the bases' colours? Leaving it blank seems unprofessional (not to mention smudgey for this one), but green may add an unnecessary colour. White? Black? 3) The kilt's blue is really matte and dark, which kind of eats the details (even if the only detail is the kilt's folds). Any tips on how to make that "pop" a bit better while still being a relatively similar/the same colour? 4) One of the paints I got in my variety pack is labelled "Brush-on Sealer"... I assume I use that on the whole thing once it's "done"? Things learned so far: Gold is really hard to overpower either silver or blue. It probably should have gone on before those colours. My red paint is a bit more liquidy than my other paints... Should keep this in mind.
  7. The pile of minis is haunting me, despite being somewhat organized. I have a habit of starting multiple figures at once, and then hoping they are seen through to the end. Thus this thread. Larger projects will be in separate threads, but my day-to-day...who am I kidding...week-to-week work will be here. To start: Isabeau Laroche in Bones. I love this sculpt, and the Bones version retains much of the sharpness of the metal version. I worked on her for a couple hours last night, cleaning up some mold lines, putting down a layer of brown liner to pull out the detail, and starting in on her face. Here is the progress so far: I decided to not use my normal caucasian skin tone bias, instead going for a palette based on Gina Torres' and Halle Berry's lovely skin. Google and Reaper's Power Palette are awesome. Since the brown liner tinted everything a little grey-brown, I first covered her face with linen white to provide a good foundation for the skin, then lay down a midtone of blond shadow. The palette I ended up with is: Base: Blond Shadow Shade: Oiled Leather and Chestnut Brown Highlight: Tanned Skin and Fair Skin I really need to get my good camera out, but hey, these are WIP pics.
  8. I've had a wonderfully productive basing/painting weekend. Tonight I got a start on my DHL Classics skellies, which will be used in an upcoming D&D adventure. I'd wanted to wait for more tips from Buglip's dry/wetbrushing how-to thread, but ultimately, I was just too excited to get started, and I think I know all that I need in order to get a start on my own. Drybrushing generally freaks me out. It's messy, and often used for putting finishing highlights on a mini. With my heavy hand, I'm likely to get paint all over the place using this technique for highlights, and so I've refrained from doing it very much in the past. With the skellies, though, the bone ridges practically DEMANDED drybrushing. But I don't want to drybrush a nearly finished mini if I don't have to, so my plan of attack goes like this: Drybrush bone basecoat -> wash bone shade -> drybrush bone highlight(if necessary) -> basecoat, wash then layer weapon and armor highlights (with minor drybrushing highlights on the wood grain.) Here they are, all primed up and ready to go. I wanted to paint up four sets of three different types of skeletons: Bleached, Aged, Blue, and Red. The Red Skeletons are a throwback to my childhood, playing Final Fantasy on the Nintendo. The Red ones were just a little bit tougher than the regular ones. But why Blue? I don't really know. I guess because I needed a 4th option, and that seemed the least offensive? I had to do a little bit of mixing in order to get the colors right, especially with the reds. I don't want any of these to deviate too far from the white/off-white coloration of bone, so everything got a small does of either bleached sand, or light buttermilk. I also threw my drybrushes in the picture. Artist's Loft Roma brushes from Michaels. This was my first time getting any real use out of them, and they took a beating tonight. I like using the big one a lot. The little guy is just there for precision stuff I can't reach with the other. And here's how the drybrush basecoat turned out. The Bleached(1st) and Blue(3rd) are very similar, almost indistinguishable from one another. I may go over the bleached ones with some pure white just to increase the color difference. The Aged(2nd) and Red (4th) ones also look similar in the pictures, but are fairly distinct in-hand. I plan on applying dark black, brown, blue, and red washes to four different types, which should help on that front as well.
  9. Hello forum folks I have not been painting anything the last half year or so, as my left elbow and lower arm have not been working properly, ligament problems leaving me unable to hold anything small still for any length of time, or at all. But it is getting better, and I have been getting a lot of prepwork done on of alot of the masses and masses of minis that have arrived, fulfilling the last years kickstarters. The Kings of War and Reaper Bones has been delivered and are now complete, and the third and last Dreadball shipment is probably in the mail, leaving me with more minis than space to put them. And several more are on their way…and the Bones are doing a second kickstarter at the moment…uh oh. At any rate, I am trying to get back in to it now, and have chosen the “Reaper Beauty Pageant 2013″ forum competition as a suitable target to actually get something done. I seem to need a deadline these days, or it gets put off. In this competion, one is to enter the Bones mini called “Lysette”, and elven sword toting maiden. Quite intrically detailed, so I might fail utterly as I still cant seem to hold it completely stlll for painting. And there is really small detail on this piece. Giving it a go, here is the first WIP shots of Murkette the Dark elf: You see where this is headed. Black undercoat, mantic base. I like mantic bases better than citadel ones these days. The Bones’ integral bases are quite easy to trim down to fit the hole, fill with a spot of green stuff and away we go! Speaking about bases… I am at something of an impasse about basing the Bones. Traditionally I have based most everything to fit with Warhammer. However…Why on Earth have I been doing that? There are lots more base options available these days. Such as the “lipped” bases (left). I find I really like those bases too, even more than the round beveled of yesteryear. And lovely sculpted bases in resin are readily available. I am not sure the square bases are as nice. I think I like round bases better in general. And these days you get something newfangled called “movement trays”…and many of these can be ordered with precut holes or slots to fit whatever size or shape base I might like to have. So any shape can actually fit Warhammer or whatever. And for games such as Kings of War, the need for individual basing is eliminated altogether, all models in a unit goes on a single base, as the minis themselves are not used as wound counters. This means that an entire unit can be based as a kind of diorama, greatly enhancing the look of the unit as a whole, and speeding up movement in-game. This also lets one play around a bit more: “a 20-man strong unit of skeletons” but… I dont really get to play any more. At all. So why even bother following that paradigm? Or any at all? So, maybe taking a more individual approach, basing each model on whim more than any special uniformity is the right way forward. What do you think about this? Any thoughts are appreciated.
  10. So after I got my really groovy pin vise from those fine folks at Hobby Lobby, I've been itching to actually pin something with it. I have tons of different stuff I could choose from but finally came upon this Ral Partha Gold Dragon from their Council of Wyrms. As I started working on it, I started photographing it, so figured I'd do a WIP out of, which I hadn't done since I'd painted up some Drow Elves a while back ago. Hopefully it's not too tedious to watch, and I've got oodles of pictures of the dragon in various states of pinning, so if you get bored, I apologize. I think I'm using this as some kind of therapy, with the hopes that if I photograph it, I'll actually have to finish it sooner or later. I'm also working on three dwarves and an Amazon chick at the same time, which I imagine will all get done before the dragon, but if you never start you'll never finish. It's a gold dragon, so my main color will end up being Palomino Gold, and his underbelly I think I'm going to start out as cream ivory, with his wings and feet being buckskin tan (I think that's the name of the color). I want to probably do the horns in some kind of brown, maybe even start out with earth brown, not sure, and will work from there. So now I've got to figure out how to do all the pictures, which I took so many of. Maybe I'll just describe it ahead of time and then put the photos in at the end. Oh well, I'll figure it out. Anyway, to start out with the model itself, pre-assembly. There's a bit of blood on him, because I ended up stabbing myself with the pin vise. Missed any vital arteries, thank you all for the concern, but after I got some holes drilled, I went and washed him off really good with soap and water.
  11. This is my first shot at painting a fig in way too many years... I dont have a light box for pictures as well as limited skill. I hope you can provide some pointers on where to go next with it.
  12. I'm still fairly new to this hobby, and I've decided that my impatience is harming my paint-jobs. I've therefore decided to jump on board Inarah's challenge and paint Lysette. I'm hoping people here can help analyse my process and identify why, precisely, I suck :) Just some shadow coats for now: Vallejo Yellow Olive, Auburn Shadow, Fair Shadow and Flesh Wash: The eyes aren't quite working for me at the moment. Any suggestions?
  13. I'm new to minis, thanks to my son who introduced me. I'm hoping for suggestions of what to do and where to go (politely). I'll post more WIPs later, but here's one that has me stuck. I've tried to make the altar look like granite and I'm fairly happy with this. It needs to be aged a bit, maybe with a wash, but I'm not really sure where to go. I was thinking of having the skulls on top just plain yellowed bone but it seems rather unimpressive, even were they shaded. Suggestions?
  14. Started working on Almaran the Gold this weekend for my son. I decided to play with some new techniques and try and refine some others. I started by covering in black gesso and then cutting of his shield arm so I could work on it seperately. I airbrushed him with gray and then drybrushed with Citadel Necro compound (dry silver). I really like the way this worked for the plate and will repeat this on the next full plate I work on. For the shield, I blended some browns for the wings and have it mostly done. Still need to do the weapon on the shield and the edge. For the body, I did a small amount of the "leather" and blued in the scarf thing. I used a white paint pen to do some runes, but they aren't great. Once they dry all the way, I'll clean them up a bit more. I did the face, but man do I suck at eyes. I tried black lining the eyes, and they are better than my normal, but not by much. I brushed on some bronze to the chest piece and then drushbrushed/highlighted a bit with gold. I still have his sword to work on. I'm planning to do a red flame - white core, flourescent yellow layer followed by orange and red and a hint of black drybrush at the tips. For the orange and red, I'm going to use my airbrush and work the overspray angles to give the figure a nice OSL glow. (sorry for the super crappy pictures)
  15. Hello again everyone who comes to this lovely little forum to show off and take a look at some of the nicest miniatures around. Today I bring to you not a Reaper mini (didn't have one that fit my character so had to look else where), but one I found for a game called Hell Dorado. So far I've finished only the base coat and a little bit of the highlighting on his body. I'm looking at whitening up his clothes a bit more and then I need to work on his eyes and all of the touchups. So without further adieu, here is my latest mini: When I finish him up tomorrow I'll be sure to post the final product and share some of my thoughts on this particular mini. In the mean time if yall have any comments or recommendations I would love to hear them as I'm still very much a newbie to the hobby.
  16. Hello everybody! I am working hard on a diorama to, if I get it done in time, submit to the Here be Dragons! competition. I have a lot of pics from the start, but I hit a problem tonight and wanted to ask the forum for opinions and advice. The diorama will tell a story. To test the idea, I won't tell you what, and if you can guess it then the story is well shown to the public :) Some pics: That was "version 1" of my idea. Of course, cleaning of minis (removing bases) and sculpting needed to be done (I cleaned the minis already, sculpting flames is next). I was quite happy about this composition, but something kept bothering these last couple days, something I finally put my finger on: - The wizard dwarf holding the shield is too static! I went through the rest of my Reaper order and found a mini that I originally intended to go up there, quickly put it together, and then set a new scene (let's call it v2): As for composition, I brought these friends: (version 2.1): ...or version 2.2: Also, to balance the diorama, this little guy (non Reaper, old mini I don't know where it comes from): These are the minis available to me, basically: Size comparison of the little dwarf: Sorry for the bad pics. Now, help me! Do you think the story is clear? Do you like v1 or v2 better? If v2, v2.1 (fighter to the side) or v2.2 (fighter in the path of the dragon and under the flame blast, mostly)? Should I keep the little dwarf? Should I add something else? There are pieces missing (like bushes, foliage on the tree plus burning tips of the branches, etc) but basically that it is. Any comment or suggestion is deeply appreciated!
  17. Got the itch to do some pirates! And lo'! The Vampire package came with four, so let's paint four of 'em, shall we? Nothing really special. Bones figures, primed grey, then a couple different skin tones. Girls are light, shirtless guy will be tanned, and the dwarf in betweens. Painting one on video (link at the end) but the other three are for my own enjoyment. I do paint slower than molasses, but maybe I can work on my viscosity.
  18. Hey again, I figured I would stop by and show my progress on my next project. Like the topic name suggests I am answering the question of "Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men?" the answer being obviously: Reaper 50217: The Black Mist (*Cough The Shadow cough cough*) Now this is only my second miniature and I'm not finished with him yet (lots of touch ups that I need to finish up), but here is my progress with him so far: Biggest issue I had so far would have to be the eyes...between the scarf and the hat it was a pain to paint the eyes. Don't mind the strange texture that seems to show in the pictures since the figure itself doesn't actually look like that. Still working on using the spray on primer, but making progress as I didn't really care for the paint on primer. Aside from that I'll post again when he's all finished. I look forward to seeing what you all have to say.
  19. I'm trying to stay motivated and get some projects finished up before my vacation is over, so I figured why not start a WIP. First up is the Ghost King. He reminded me a lot of Shredder so that's what I'm going for at the moment. Next up is the well. I've been fairly uninspired by this one. More than likely I will just hit it with some drybrush and pick out some of the other details. This is an eventual christmas gift for my Mother in law. I've just about finished blocking in the colors and drybrushing the fur. I have an oblong 3x4 base that I'm going to affix them to once they are done. The last one here is the mummy. Not much to say yet but here it is.
  20. I would consider myself far more of a gamer than a painter. In fact, I got in on the Reaper Kickstarter specifically because I saw so much potential in their miniatures for use in -that- tabletop game. As a gamer, I therefore tend to paint for the tabletop rather than aspiring towards some of the amazing work I've been browsing through on these forums over the past few days. That's not to say that I don't keep telling myself that if I actually managed to force myself to sit and work on the same mini for days or weeks at a time that I might not be able to achieve something appealing...but there's a voice in the back of my head that always reminds me that (a) I am not a patient man and (b) if I don't try, it will be easier to keep fooling myself into believing it may be possible. So why this thread from a self-confessed speed-painter? Two reasons, really. The first is that I find that WIP threads are a great tool for motivation, something I often lack. The second is that there's always a useful comment or two that opens your eyes to something you hadn't considered or points you to a new technique and I'm a big believer in learning. So I hope you will all indulge me and feel free to comment. I take criticism fairly well as long as it's provided in a constructive manner (and since my wife hasn't seen this post, she can't contradict me! ) Enough blathering, here's what I'm working on at present. I decided that the first of my Bones from the Kickstarter to get a lick of paint would be one of my Trey Manor Ogres and one of the add-on Daemons. Both will find their way into armies of mine and the majority of my choices over the next few weeks will be selected for that very reason. First up, the ogre: One or two more highlights, particularly on the skin, and I'll be happy with the Ogre. The Daemon has only had his basecoat and wash so far so he has some ways to go. All told, that was roughly 3 hours of work this evening, not counting on the time for the washes to dry so not bad going at all. More to follow tomorrow, assuming I manage to get back to the painting table.
  21. I've just started painting, so I thought I'd post things I'm working on and hopefully get some hints on where to go next. First up are some Bones Goblins. My two goals for this are to develop better contrast and tweak my techniques so that painting goes more quickly. I started with a base coat of walnut brown for 3 and blacked brown for the other 3. I'd definitely do them all in walnut brown if I had it to do again. Then I put down a base coat of olive green for the skin. The metals are true silver mixed with true black or mahogany brown. Then I put on either oiled leather or ruddy leather for the leathers and made various color hats (for tracking which is which when gaming) The next steps will be to finish base coating the cloth bits and the various accessories and then blending to add shadows and highlights to the skin, leathers and hats. I'll probably had some pure metal highlights to the metal bits too, they don't stand out as well as I'd like.
  22. Hello everybody. While I am waiting (and waiting... and waiting) for my minis for the Here be Dragons! Diorama, I started working on my Infinity minis. Now, the idea is to get back into gaming, and also to pull back into the hobby my wife, my brother and my best friend. I started working on the minis, but then got caught up with making a nice looking table. I got inspired by the internet, but a lot by Dadcube's recent thread (here!). Scratchbuilding terrain (and stuff, in general) has always been a passion for me. I cannot match the great paintjobs out there, but I can build nice looking stuff that looks great, because it is original and one-of-a-kind :) After some weeks working on it, I thought I would share. Perhaps this can inspire some of you, and feel free to also share ideas and tips. All pics are from my cellphone and under yellow, household light. Sorry :/ Another note: I work with centimeters. If you need to do a conversion, think that an inch is about 2.5cm So 25cm = 10 inches, and 1 meter = 100 cm = 40 inches (I know this is off and only for you to get rough measures). We started thinking about a 1.2x1.2m board. This board would be made out of 16 30x30cm pieces that could be arranged in different dispositions. These will include streets, modelled in the middle of the pieces. This is a sketch I made on a little piece of paper to share with my friend over the phone: The "theme" of the board will be futuristic-clean-oriental. If you are familiar with the Infinity background, we are thinking about making this with touches of YuJing, sorta like a merge of ultra-modern Japan and touches of cultural China. We will see where this takes us... The board: Being in Argentina we don't have a lot of materials available; or at least no big stores like Michaels, or hobby stores. This means we have to use our creativity to find stuff that works! That being said, my friend works in design so he is familiar with a lot of materials and techniques. He suggested a certain foam type that is dense... upon inspection I believe this is very similar if not the same that is used in the US for insulation. It is called "Polifan" foam here, and is used to carve out letter for signs, 3D logos, etc. I got a 60x100cm board for about 10USD. The minimum thickness is 2cm. We cut the 16 squares out of this foam board. We also got some plasticard for later detailing (probably the most expensive thing yet). I also got a big plank of "grey cardboard" as it is called here; it is the kind of stuff architecture students use here for their scale models. Cardboard plus some supplies (white glue, craft paints and clear acetate sheets*) can be seen here: * the clear sheets, intended for windows and stuff, is actually a pack of "clear plastic A4 covers" that was laying around the office; they used it as a clear cover when spiral-binding reports. I don't think they will miss one pack, plus they haven't bound reports in a lot time with PDFs now). (next post with more!)
  23. I'm painting another mini for a friend. His character frequently rides around on a dire wolf but sometimes needs to leave him behind. So, using a refrigerator magnet I made it so that his character can separate from the base of the warg. I'll fill the whole either with a tree or a bush. Haven't decided completely yet. Maybe a creepy monolith. Here they are before paint hit them.
  24. I'm painting up 77026: Young Fire Dragon as a white dragon for an upcoming D&D game, and I was feeling a little frustrated and wasn't making very much progress, so I thought I'd take a few pictures and toss them up here. I still plan to give special attention to his eyes, mouth, and base. I am considering doing the little wing spikes and tail spikes as boney protrusions in a warmer white, shaded to a pale warm brown? I would especially like opinions on the wings: is the shading reasonable? Are the transitions smooth enough? Also, is there enough contrast on the body? His little cheek-flaps seem especially hard to pick out at a distance. Lastly, does he actually seem to read as white, or just pale blue? Colors are Snow Shadow, Ghost White, and Pure White, so far. (And I acknowledge the double challenge of both painting and photographing white is working against any useful advice I might receive.)
  25. Disclosure: I am not a professional painter. You could probably see this by the pictures. I consider myself the typical average guy who collects and paints minis. That being said, here is my WIP pics for a few of the Bones I did. This first pic is base+some drybrushing on the owlbear and werewolf, and base only on the elemental And here is the elemental all finished up, with some minor work needed on the base and that's it.
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