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  1. While debate how to proceed with my Phoenix, I decided it was time to get to some figures I was hoping to paint up for RCon. Tonight during google hangouts I managed to get her skin base coated and some shadows blocked in. I then proceeded to obsesses over the eyes and face. Which tends to be my MO. Makes the figure come more alive to my eyes. Going with a tan complexion and green eyes. Still need to paint up the mouth to finish off the face, but I think she starting off OK. Here is the result of tonight's work:
  2. So, I need to finish the dragon and get it off my desk and onto a shelf somewhere where it will not taunt me. A bit of history- I decided to do a super in-depth WIP since so many nice forumites at Reapercon helped me win it two years ago in the auction. With this post I have officially surpassed 100 in-progress photos!! Yay!!! Here are the old threads if anyone wants them where I did the early step-by-step. May-Aug Sept-Dec This weekend I tackled the last aurora effect on the underside of the wing. No pics, sorry, but it looks just like the other one. I still need to do some blending to make the color transition more seamless. I'll do that with about a thousand (kidding, but it feels like it) glaze layers until I 1) get tired of it or 2) it looks the way I want. usually the former! I also worked on attaching my more finished wing to the body. I did this because it will push me to finish the dragon even though all the blending isn't where I want it yet. if I don't push, it will continue to stare at me from the desk. There is a larger gap on the top here than the underside. I’m a bit of a weirdo and I like to do most of my painting before assembling the major parts of the mini. It’s easier for me to reach some areas that way. And in the case of this mini- I wanted to treat the wings almost like a flat canvas. It just means I have to be careful handling the mini and in how much glue I use. But, if I have an accident I can always touch up (after the glue is dry!!! Save the brushes!) I use superglue. In the case of this resin mini the wings come with a double tab joint so I opted not to pin. The joint extends all the way through the body, so it seems very stable. Materials: I use the metal tools to place and mold the greenstuff and the clay shapers to smooth it out afterwards. It doesn’t have to be perfect! As long as the transition between the two limbs looks neater, that’s what I aim for. I use the Vaseline to keep the tools from sticking. Just a bit, don’t goop it on or it will be harder to clean it up afterwards. I keep a bit on the back of my off- hand (learned that from the pro sculptors- it’s an awesome trick) to keep it handy. Use just enough to coat the tool in a thin layer and not more. First I place some greenstuff- err on the side of a lesser amount. It’s always easy to add more, harder to take it away when the surface is painted. Then I sculpt a few scales. Just a rough pattern that I can touch up. The clay shapers are great for smoothing the area between the new scale and the body. If it isn't perfectly smooth I can always take some sealer and smooth it out after it's dry. Add more greenstuff. I roll out little coils with my fingers and then squash it where I need it. More scales and in the area where the wing membrane abuts the body, I just smooth it in and will paint it like more membrane. It will eventually blend in nicely and no one will notice! I do the same on the underside. This mini had a cracked scale near the body up at the top of the pic, so I just sculpted overtop of it. Sometimes I cover a whole scale, sometimes just blend into it, sometimes create a new one. It depends on what looks right or at least blended. remember, these just have to look like they fit. they don't have to be perfect and you can fix lines in the sculpting with sealer or sometimes even paint. The reason to make them smooth and nice to begin with is that it is easier to continue with the rest of the process and not work harder to fix them later. But don't sweat the details. It'll work out! After letting the scales dry, I’ll base coat them. This is usually where I find out the areas I need to work of smoothing out the color transitions. It’s hard to judge them when the parts are separate so that's one reason to pre-assemble. As you can see, the wing and the body colors don’t match up perfectly. Easy to fix, though, so no worries! Now, all I have to do is finish painting them and making it look smooth. I'm torn- Julie was nice enough to sign the bottom of it so I don't want to cover that with a base... but I want to base it. I may end up cutting into a wooden base to leave the signature visible versus just asking Julie to sign it again. more soonish...
  3. Hello, With the updates to the rules I figured I should get more painting done for Warmachine. I have found I paint faster with feedback, and as the previous forum I was using slowed considerably, I was invited here by a regular. The first group on the block is most of the rest of my mercs. There's a few more that will likely need their own threads later. It's a range of new and old, so from Left to right: Herne and Jonne - PIP Code: 41005 The two black based minis, I got them at a miniature market swap meet type event with MK1 cards, so they're probably the oldest minis in this. Bases are Secret weapon resin Town Square Bases. Gorman di Wulfe - PIP Code: 41014 He'll be the second time I've painted this model. Ghordson Basher - PIP Code: 41082 Back row, and falling down, because I tend to paint in parts. Devil's Shadow Mutineers - PIP Code: 41104 These three are on modified secret weapon blasted wetlands bases, three pirates in the front row. Classic Mule PIP Code: 41019 - Metal mule, because I enjoy the design a bit more than the conglomerated kit plastic kit, standing on a secret weapon Town Square Base. Rutger Shaw PIP Code: 41075 - Should have been painted a long time ago, as evidenced by the partial base coat. Ashlynn D'elyse PIP Code: 41090 - Awesome mini, huge banner that I don't know what to do with yet. Gastone Crosse Kickstarter Edition (no pip code) - one of the daggers is cracked so I'll need to repair it somehow in this wip.
  4. About this model: The 1/60 Despot was designed and built by John Bear Ross, under license from Reaper, back around 2003 in a limited run. I don't remember the exact number but I want to say there were only 100 made. It is a combination of resin and metal parts and requires quite a bit of assembly before I can start painting. The tank treads look to be the most difficult part. Before anything more, I want to say that Mike Hardy (aka Black Lightning 2 back in the day) is awesome! I couldn't afford to buy one of these limited edition models when they were released, but several years ago Mike needed to clear out some space and contacted me to see if I was interested in buying his Despot. He could have sold it for a lot of money on eBay, but he wanted it to go to someone who'd appreciate it. I jumped at the chance to finally get one of these, but when it arrived I was simply overwhelmed. I loved assembling CAVs, but this is a lot bigger, and I've never been much of a painter, so it just sat in its box on a shelf... For eight long years... It's time to fix that. I can't get links to my Google Photos account to work here, so I'm just uploading a few pics for now. If anyone knows how to get those working, please let me know. The first pic is of all the parts laid out in their glory. (I took these photos w/my cellphone, which is turning everything yellow under the florescents. Once I actually start painting, I'll break out my camera to get better photos.) Followed by all a closer shot of all the resin pieces, then the metal pieces. And finally what she will kinda look like once she's all put together. And here's a link to the Google Photos album where I have even more pics: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOp9xyRL5EtNEU00011Q62fvi72OWjS80VgCPB2
  5. I started painting Narthrax the other day, and I've worked on him a little more today... So the bulk is done, I'm mostly at details and basing and stuff atm. However, to try and make sure I stick with this, I've decided to pop up a WIP thread. So this is where I'm at =] Yep, I'm still painting on a tray, on a teatowel, on my couch =P
  6. Well I since I don't have enough WIP's going I thought I start one for my survivors. I noticed that I can manage to get through at least 4 a month. So in I plan to work on these guys when I need a break from the unDead. The first up is Josh the Thug: And the reaming 4 from the Season 1 box: And 4 more from 2 of the guest box set I picked up to round my survivors to 5/5 female/male.
  7. I'm in desperate need of organizing my work area. While cleaning, I found a small stack of foam core sheets. So, I formed a plan to get rid of some foam core sheets, open up some storage, and organize my painting area, all at the same time. Here's the project, presented wordlessly: Darn. I've run out of storage space already. I think I'll have to make a second one at least, what with more paint coming in from mail order and Reaper Kickstarters. Dimensions are 15" wide by 13" deep by 12-1/2" tall with a capacity of 126 bottles. Total material used for this project: just under 3 standard-sized sheets of foam board. It would have been 2-1/2 sheets, but on Tuesday the backboard went missing, and I accused the boys of taking it and playing with it and not returning it; on Wednesday I discovered the piece back where it was before after I had cut a replacement, and I accused the boys of returning it secretly to cover their earlier misdemeanor; and on Thursday my wife asked if I had noticed that I had got the foam core piece back, since she had borrowed it as a backdrop for taking eBay sale photos. I formally apologized to the boys for even suspecting them.
  8. Thelgar is my current project. Working through the base coats at the moment. I'm planning on highlighting the skin up through the moss colors triad. I haven't been able to decide what I want to do with the belt and scabbard yet. Since this is for a tabletop game I'm probably not going to get too fancy. I'm going to repaint the front cloth with 9418 Oceanic Blue and highlight it with the 9419 Tropical Blue that's on it. Any suggestions or comments would be more than welcome!
  9. It's been quite some time since I posted some minis here let alone a WIP. And joining the google hangout reminded me I really should ( thank you for that) . I apologize I switched jobs a few months ago and my life had been a little abnormal since. I also am kinda moved to Lancaster, Pa so if any fellow forum members are out this way, give me a shout I'd love to meet up to paint, game or just chat. Anyway on to the mini. I started Jahenna months ago to use as a test piece to try out a new mix for flesh. Since I finished up everything else on my desk, I figured I'd give her some more time, and quite possibly finish her who knows. Here are some photos that should be safe for the forums of how she looked when I picked her up a few days ago. (Please forgive my cell phone pics, I do not have my photo setup and light box with me yet during the week) So basically I was testing color mixes and hadn't even completely blended it but that's ok as most of it will be covered anyway for the cloth. I slowly started to block in some cloth and began my intermediate mixes to help make it look sheer. I also upped the highlights on her skin a bit. Here is how she looks now. These photos are linked as the front is considered nudity. The back http://wp.me/a26YPy-6r And front http://wp.me/a26YPy-6s Now I still have lots to do to make the cloth look right and blend better, as well as go back to her skin and fix that but I hope it's starting to read right. And hopefully with everyone's motivation possibly get her finished rather than leave her sit on the shelf of shame. This weekend I will attempt to take photos with my light box and camera as well. As always thanks everyone for all the awesomeness on these forums. And of course comments, critiques or just general rambling always welcome.
  10. So after having a brief start a few years ago in the painting journey that got interrupted by various life events, I have finally gotten the painting bug back and am starting in on some tabletop figures while I try to wrap my head around how I want to paint some of my various Bones and old assorted RPG figures. The tabletop figures have an obvious advantage in that once I settle on a scheme, they all kind of just flow from there so its a bit easier to figure out how I want to paint them. That said, I am still operating at a bit of a disadvantage while I slowly gather proper supplies/tools, to say nothing of actual skill. Currently, I am waiting on a new bulb for my project lamp since the lamp came with a shattered bulb (awesome). I also don't have the best of brushes yet but that's mainly because I want to make sure I actually stick with this before I invest too much money into it. Ultimately though, I can hopefully gain some steady improvement and hopefully show other fellow newbies like myself that its not as daunting as it may seem, even if the quality won't come anywhere near many of the awesome painters on here. Naturally, any and all feedback is much appreciated and I am sure I will be asking plenty of questions as I go. So without further ado, our first entrant, the mighty Vanquisher: Obviously only got a small bit done last night, but the plan is to keep the armor mostly in the dark red, with Honed Steel for the gears, pistons, etc. for the Vanq. The gun is going to be mostly a gold tone as will some of the details and edges. What I am not certain of yet are what color to paint the little doors on top there. I want them to stand out a bit and am having trouble coming up with a good color choice. I don't want to just keep that sanguine color (P3 Sanguine Base) but can't quite pin down if I should just use the Honed Steel or something else. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. And yes, I realize I need to go over it with at least a couple more base coats on the parts partially painted, just ran out of energy last night. :)
  11. There is a dude who hosts an online painting and chat time through Google Hangouts. It's tons of fun. I have attended several, and met quite a few characters in the process. Overall, they are great group of people who share in my hobby of painting. Here is one of the pieces I was working on while chatting tonight. Its part of a desert theme I have been working on. There is also a scorpion, a group of gnolls, and a group of kobolds The worm will be a boss of sorts, offering my players a hefty challenge. He is still a WIP, but so far, I am really liking the way everything is coming out. The white specks are going to be colored in, but I have at least 1-2 more layers to add for some highlights on the skin before I dive into the details. CAH
  12. Fractured Dimensions' Bearded Devils are currently on the paint-table. Great looking Paul Muller sculpts. One tricky bit is the deeply recessed (as in virtually inaccessible) areas under the kilts (a situation admittedly worsened by basing prior to painting). A heavy initial slathering of black paint (1st picture) has hopefully prevented headaches down the road. (I'll keep my fingers crossed. Murphy's Law suggests a different outcome.) The second picture shows the base colors blocked in. As per recent efforts in the devil department, it's Reaper Cinnamon Red skin and Vallejo Vermillion kilts. The fluorescent orange beards are a new wrinkle.
  13. OK folks this is my most recent attempt at painting. I decided to do this mini in the color scheme of the Protectorate of Menoth from Warmachine. Basically I am doing a test paint to acclimate myself to the colors and techniques that I will use as I begin painting several minis for the Mk III release of Warmachine. I need some help though, I have had several missteps in this paint thus far and am struggling to see this as a success. 1) How should I highlight the white? Should I do darker tones around the highlight areas? 2) Should I use some liner to try and add some more contrast? I feel like the sculpt wasn't the best and then my mediocre painting skills don't help and I feel like a lot of the details this mini did have have been obscured by my crappy painting abilities. 3) I REALLY don't know how to highlight the top cape and the crest on the shield as that color is a combo of Bloodstain Red,Violet Light and then glazed over with Clear Magenta. I know that's a lot but there are very specific colors for the faction and I am trying to get as close to that as possible. 4) Can someone please explain Ink's to me? I used a red ink on the bottom cape as it was suggested somewhere else to help with contrast on similar colors and while I like the outcome, it shifted the color in a way that I didn't expect and am not certain how or why inks are used. 5) Finally, if anyone does play Warmachine as Menoth I would like to know what your thoughts are on my colors; I am currently only using Reaper paints.
  14. Working on this Female warrior. Very happy with it so far.
  15. After my exchange mini I wanted to touch work on something less taxing. So I decided to work on a few more Walkers. Also I decided to test out the camera on my new tablet. Not a whole lot of editing options, but I could crop the photos, and I think I got the white balance OK. Here is the group shot: While I finished the highlights on the skin of all 4, I only managed to get this guy's highlights finished. I still plan on putting down some washes to make the shadows darker, and bloody him up. But this is the 1st step in my Zombicide process. I'll see how it looks on my computer in a bit. Edit: I changed to topic title to reflect the change in WIP's Purpose. Later I will add the four unpainted models.
  16. Ok, so I had to move this one to the front of my desk even though I'm working on too many other things right now. This is Dark Sword's new bust: Portrait of a Young Tiefling based on the T. Diterlizzi painting, sculpted by T. Meier. I loves it!! So, I recently took a class on painting realistic skin, and I thought I could use the practice. I grabbed a photo online of Mila Kunis to use as my model, because I wanted to do a bronzed skin. My theory here is to use a red- yellow skin. I'll contrast that with green. I'll also incorporate cream, black and gold. Overall, I'll keep the palette fairly subdued, but not as pastel as the original painting. Here we go! First: Mila. Thanks for posing, Ma'am! So, hints of red, brown and gold in the skin. I may go a bit yellower. I was looking for a good olive and not having much luck. here we are base coated with bronzed skin. I went through my goldeny colors and liked this one best. I went ahead and attached her to the column to have a handle, but I'm waiting to attach the kitty and the horns until I get some of the main bust done. added some pumpkin orange. I think I may just glaze with it later. But it gives me a sense of where I want to go with the skin. ok, I mixed some stuff. Mostly spattered crimson, pumpkin orange and a bit of walnut brown. Might have added a hint of carnage red, but as I went on, I decided I liked the spattered crimson better. I'll be doing the horns in the reddish color. I don't fret too much about neat blending at this stage. i probably could, but I like to paint quick, and I know I'll just go back over it with a dozen glazed layers, so... speed! added the highlights with linen white mixed with the bronzed skin. note my Mila photo has frontal lighting, so I'm putting the highlights in the front. I want to build them up in geometric shapes more or less. At this point I usually get tired of blending and try to knock the eyes out. In a smaller mini, I paint my eyes first and then work outwards, but for this I like to get a sense of the skin. Since the skin will have a lot of red shadows, I'm going to change poor Mila's eyes to green. here's a quick step-by-step of the eyes. lined them in walnut brown. Painted the sclera (whites) with twilight blue. scelera often have a bluish tinge. unless the mini is jaundiced... moving on with shading of the sclera with aircraft gray. Got impatient here and used thicker paint. had to paint over it. Sigh. used palomino gold to start on the iris. I wanted a slightly of-center gaze. added IMEF oilive. skipped through a few steps, sorry. I get caught up sometimes. Anyway- I painted a pupil with pure black, added some pure white dots, and touched up the eyes a bit. I'll go back and blend the sclera later, but it gives her some soul at least. I did add a bit of lined white next to the iris to lighten up the sclera. I went back and did some blending. Added a base coat to the eyebrow. The lips I mixed using bronzed skin, spattered crimson and some linen white. Note- the upper lip is darker since it slopes back. the lower bulges out, so tends to catch the light. And I added in the IMEF olive to get a sense of the color balance. The nice thing about this color scheme is I can use many of the same colors to highlight and shadow my cloth/kitty/hair. This took about 3.5 hrs. i still have a lot of blending to do, But I'm happy with the skin tone. pretty close. I need to glaze in some of my orange and pink up the cheeks, but that will be tomorrow. Now, margarita time!
  17. Whew! So I had a busy weekend. Still recuperating. I had the awesome opportunity to travel to Reaper HQ (nice bones prototypes floating around there...) and take a Master class with Kirill Kanaev (Yellow One on CMON) who is a fantastic teacher and truly amazing painter! I had a wonderful time, but for much of the class I realized that I could not paint AT ALL. Actually, I'm pretty sure all of us felt that way! Really. I'm not kidding. The style of painting, brushes and technique were completely different than what I was used to. It was a mind-blowing experience. So I'll try to share a bit of the process! I had this grand plan of doing a step by step, but got distracted painting, so it'll be a bit of a leap here or there. First, pretty sure Kirill sculpted the bust we used. Mad props! It has a bunch of different areas to play with like metal, leather, cloth and skin! The first thing we did was learn about volume. There is never enough volume. Everyone needs more volume! I kid, but it took us all a bit of thinking before we figured out how to apply this. We looked at zones of the face, and the color ranges found in each. This is from the Gurney book: And it makes sense if you think about a face. I ended up picking Jack Nicholson as my model to copy. The idea is to copy the 2-D pic with matching skin tones onto the 3-D bust, and map out zones of highlight-shadow. Yeah... so this took a bit but eventually I figured it out. And It was fun to choose colors to match the skintone and mix until I got the right ones! Um, I used: olive green, creamy ivory, rust red, green ocher, red shadow, soft blue for most of this. I added in some pure white and black later. And metallics later as well, but I'll get to the armor later... the fun part was I didn't use a single "skin" color!!! You can see where I played with colors below on the watercolor paper. I like doing that to get a sense of where I'm heading and my choices. too yellow moving in the right direction better... but dark. ah hah! So that's what he means when he says volume- make the highlights cover the forehead, cheeks, chin in a geometric pattern that matches the general sense of frontal highlighting. It only took 4 hours for me to get it. sigh. triangles for cheeks, chin is a circle, forehead sort of a circle, ignoring all the lines and stuff. I had to forget the anatomy of the bust and focus on the anatomy of the 2-D pic, concentrating on the type of lighting I was mimicking. He showed us this later using the airbrush on the fire giantess to demo directional lighting. blurry iphone, but you can see the general schemes and the areas that end up shadowed and lighted. Anyway, we all painted for about 8 hours, our brains imploded and we went out for alcohol. er, I mean, class was dismissed and we had free time... here's day 1, all of us. You can see the different skintones we chose based on our very unique reference photos. I really liked Rhonda's bronze skin and Anne's pale zombie-dead skin! So day 2 we split on those who wanted to work further on the face (wow, there was a lot of detailing in that group!) and those of us wanting to practice textures. Yay textures! I'm a smooth blender, so playing with another way to approach fabrics was super! Here's Kirill demoing stuff: He doesn't use a wet palette, that's Jen's in front of him. He uses a teeny tiny brush, like a 2-0. I think the Russians have nicer brushes since those pesky kolinskies live there... My basecoat plus an attempt at stippling. a tiny brush works best for this. really, the stipples need to be even tinier than the ones I have. I need to buy smaller brush... here's a closeup. This is a fun texture. it uses the tip of the brush, so don't use your nice brush to try it out. The same idea for highlights and shadows applies. Start with stipplies in the shadows and gradually work up to highlights. Like a rough wool. We also did cross-hatching. It makes and insanely smooth gradient that I think is even nicer than a blended area. again, I need to make smaller hatches more closely spaced than these. The idea is to draw the cloth structure in using the lines, so they aren't spaced, they're layered vertical-horizontal, etc etc. Layers and layers. Looks like linen or canvas. So soft! I kind of got distracted and forgot to take pictures on the metal, fur and leather. But the metal was another mind-altering experience. What he did was take a base metallic color, mix it (like demi-metallic) with a greenish-brown paint and some gloss medium/varnish in order to keep the shine. the whole metal we coated in a yellow-brown over top of the metal basecoat. It lent a very realistic sheen to the area. then we added in dents, bloodstains, rust and scratches. I went and bought myself some vallejo chrome since it's shiny- it works great for random scratches. What I liked about this part was trying to make the metal look real, rather than perfect. here's a front with my fur, partial leather and metal. the deep scratches were a thin layer of my red shadow mixed with, er, stuff... can't remember- but anyway a dark color washed out above and a light line drawn below to mimic that hard edge. You can see a bit of the chrome lines tucked in there. It's hard to photo metallics, so I can see why a lot of folks prefer NMM. the bloodstain get gloss medium. The rust doesn't. He always mixes in a bit of the base metallic with whatever he's using to shade to keep the shine! Here's all of us at the end of day 2: You can see the different metal effects we played with and the range of skintones! And which of use kept up with the faces versus textures. I stayed a bit later on monday and got in some last minute pre-flight stubble instruction. I used the soft blue mixed with black and some of my olive, though I think I need to back away on the green. Too much green, needs more blue/purple. Anyway, it was awesome and fun and exhausting and I can try to dig through the rest of the photos and my notes if anyone wants more. I bought a second bust to practice on, so I may use this thread with an entirely different reference photo and start all over! Now I want to paint busts!!!
  18. Got tired of painting people, so why not paint some mechs! I tried to go for a really clean separation between the armor plates, I need to go back and darken the lines around the feet I think. I plan on bringing the orange up super bright, almost to a yellow. That part might be a bit tricky though, as I don't actually have any orange paints and have just been mixing red and yellow XD. We'll see how it turns out. I'll also be finding some fun symbols or ID numbers to put on the white spots on the back and the side of the cockpit. I don't have any idea what color I'll paint the cockpit glass yet, maybe yellow or grey.
  19. After receiving my Krackotoans from Dragon Bait, I thought I'd work on a bunch of related undersea encounters (mostly from Bones)
  20. This is my very first WIP topic here, and my very first time painting minis at home. My prior experience is painting about 15 minis in one-hour paint-and-take sessions at Reaper's booths at various PAX conventions over the last year. That's done with brushes that have been pretty beat up by other convention-goers, no palette suitable for thinning paints, and of course a rather short period of time. It was a lot of fun, it got me hooked, and I had a few results I'm actually pretty happy with, but I feel like a complete beginner about to paint his very first mini. I have never really done one before properly, at least as I see it, and very few of those 15 minis reached a "finished" state in my mind. Consequently, this WIP is going to be pretty exciting for me, and a huge learning experience. What will it be like to have no time crunch? What will happen when I start mixing and thinning paints like I've seen a lot of you do? What level of detail will I be able to achieve with properly-tipped brushes and binoculars on my head? Well, I want to learn a lot, and for that, I figure the more practice I have, the more systematically I go about it, the better off I'll be. To that end, I have amassed a veritable horde of orcs. 77042 Orc Marauder (Sword and Shield) x3 77045 Orc Hunter (Spear) x3 77051 Orc Stalker (Two Weapons) x2 77056 Orc Sniper (Archer) x3 77059 Orc Berserker (Two Handed Sword) x2 77064 Kavorgh, Orc Warboss x1 Yes indeed, 14 orcs in total, which will mean I'll basically be doubling the number of minis I've painted with my very first real project. It's ambitious, but I am an ambitious sort of guy, and I figure painting 14 figures that are all pretty similar will give me a lot of practice for new techniques I want to learn. Also, and I feel like this matters, the orcs are relatively large, so I'll be able to paint just a little less precisely and not ruin things, and also have a larger "canvas" to get experience on. One small problem. I don't actually have my paints yet! So why did I make this topic now? Well, the paints will come on Tuesday, and I want the weekend to really look these figures over and think about colors and how I'm going to do them. I'm posting the WIP now to sort of think about that process "out loud" and maybe get a little advice before starting. Plus, well, I'm really enthusiastic. One thing I'm gonna do is paint every individual orc of each type with some different skin tones. I figure orcs, like humans, have some pigment variations in their skin across the population. Over the long history of whatever fantasy world these guys are from, there would have been migrations of different orc populations, and random mutations (or magical mutations), and so a clan or orcs would be genetically diverse enough so not every orc looks the same. Since these orcs are all bald, I can't experiment too much with hair, so instead I'll experiment with skin. The other thing I'll do is mix up the leather or fur they're wearing under their armor. Using just a bit of different color will help me diversify the horde, and make it easier to differentiate them all in a tabletop setting. Where possible, I'll try to contrast these leather or fur colors with their skin colors, for a nicer effect. The armor, eyes, and teeth will probably all be the same for each of them. I'll paint the plate armor with dark metallics, and the mail with light metallics washed with black. My intention is to make their armor look well-used and not shiny-new. I'll probably give the war boss some nicer, shinier armor. Maybe some gold. I may try to do some freehand on his plate mail to give it a little tribal significance or an intimidation factor. I'll try to vary things a little with details like bloodstains for the melee orcs. I may also attempt some war paint. We'll see. For reference, I'll be looking at the examples in the inspiration gallery. Of particular interest to me is the skin color Citrine got on a couple of these minis, the skin on this one by Jeremie Bonamant Teboul and the furs by Slashhamster. My rough plan for dealing with these orcs is as follows, though of course no plan survives first contact with the enemy. 1. Clean the minis. I got a new toothbrush for just this occasion. 2. Quick coat with brown liner. 3. Eyes. I've been reading and re-reading the various tutorials and topics on them. 4. Base coat the skin. 5. Base coat leather, furs, and armor 6. Finish skin 7. Finish chainmail 8. Finish furs and leathers 9. Plate armor 10. Weapons and shields 11. Detail work 12. Sealer I'll try to do all 13 orc mooks at the same time, step by step, and then do the warboss at the very end after I've learned as much as I can about orcs from the earlier painting. I'll be taking detailed notes as I go, writing down recipes and each step I take, especially with skin. I'll also be photographing a lot. My mini photo booth is ready and waiting (well, backdrops come tomorrow). Right now I'm thinking about five different skin colors I'd like to try with my orcs. I'll try to do at least two orcs of each color, avoid duplicating colors for the same orc minis, and I'll paint the warboss with my favorite result. Brownish-Green I'll start with a green base coat and then layer on some brown. I don't really care for the Warcraft-style bright green orcs, but I think green is a decent color to work with for them. I'll aim for a fairly dark green with enough red in there that you figure he still bleeds red. Brownish-Yellow I'm going to try to match Citrine's orc skin as close as I can, because it's awesome. It looks like khaki and muddy brown or brown sand. Citrine, if you're reading this and remember what you did, I'd love some tips. Greenish- Orange In other words brownish-yellow, right? Well, maybe, but darker. I'm not exactly sure how to describe the color I'm thinking of, but I'll know it when I see it. More brown, less khaki. Reddish-Brown I think of this as a sort of rage brown. Good for a berserker. I'll probably base coat a darker brown and then layer on reds. I might even throw in a little purple there. Orc smash! Gray Sort of a Lord of the Rings orc skin color. I think I'll base coat with a dark orange of all things and then layer on grays and maybe some tan highlight. If, as I'm mixing, I stumble across any other skin colors, or a different way of doing what I'm thinking of doing, I'll certainly talk about that here in the topic. I'll be happy to hear from anyone with skin tips, while this topic is running. It's a little too early to start thinking about the leather and fur pairings, since I don't even know yet which orcs will get which skin colors and not every orc mini has leather or fur. Still, I'm thinking I'll probably do the sorts of furs you'd find in highlands, as I imagine these orcs live in the shadows of mountains. They raid settlements for livestock and slaves and live a nomadic lifestyle, retreating back into the hills where organized parties of soldiers can't track them down too easily to end the threat once and for all. So, wolf fur, deer fur, maybe even mountain goat fur. The leathers I can have a little more leeway with since leather can be stained a variety of colors. I'll use what I think is appropriate in contrast with skin tone, though I'll probably stick to brown leathers of various shades. Wood is another interesting set of decisions to make. There's the shields and spear shafts. I've seen a couple good tutorials already, but I'll want to see some more before I do them. I think I'll probably go with old, aged wood. The shields may provide some interesting opportunities for freehand painting. I'm aiming for a blackened steel type color for the armor plates, as a base coat. I may get adventurous and start experimenting with a little color on top to dull them out and age them. I'll probably try some highlights as well with a lighter metallic. For details, I want to see if I can do a freehand painted design representing their clan, and make it look like it was smeared on there with a crude old brush (at their scale), or even finger-painted (at their scale). Could be a challenge to replicate that effect, but maybe I can do it. I'll spend some time thinking about what orcs would use as a thick, crude paint, what color that would be, and what technique I'd need to replicate that. And oh yes, there will be blood. Anyway, no pictures today, since there's nothing to see, really. Best I could give you is some pictures of unpainted minis against a very white background and that wouldn't be very fun to look at. Paints should arrive by Tuesday, so just four days to go. I'd appreciate any comments, advice, well-wishes, etc. in the meantime, and I hope you enjoy following along as I ramble about orc skin and teach myself to paint almost from scratch. As a bonus, I've been taking a drawing class (crazy me, starting two hobbies at the same time), and maybe I'll sketch some of these minis every so often and post those sketches. It's a non-credit, casual sort of thing at a local art museum, and the first class was only just last night so I can't promise quality, but it'll be good practice for me and maybe it'll help me figure out what I want to paint. It would also combine all three of my artistic hobbies (painting, drawing, photography) into one giant megahobby and completely take over my life. Just as a disclaimer, I would really thank you for your constructive criticism throughout this topic, even if it's harsh. Only way I'll get better is if people don't treat me with kid gloves and I can guarantee you'll never be able to hurt my feelings. I find that infinitely more useful than just a quick bit of nonspecific praise. If I've done something well, tell me specifically what that thing is, and if there's a way to do it better let me know that too. Of course some things will just be stylistic choices, but I still like to hear about how other people do things. I'm my own worst critic but I'm sure there's stuff I'll miss so let me know where I'm in need of improvement.
  21. So, since I was procrastinating on making my base for Rasia I decided to start prepping some more figures to paint. After see 72Moonglum paint up some old partha's I decided to work on another of mine. Here is stage one of my 3 stage elf collection: I then decided why not finaly paint up one of my Chainmail Elves. Also why not add a newer one to round out the generations, Reaper's Amiryth Elmlighter.
  22. So I figured I'd just start a WIP thread, rather than clutter up the forum with unnecessary extras. I hate disorder (although you wouldn't be able to tell that from looking at my workspace! LOL) This week's been mostly working on Gremlins from Malifaux, I have Somer, Slophaulers and Skeeters almost done. Still waiting on flying stand order to come in for Skeeters. Somer's the Bayou Boss, and I have other Bayou Gremlins in my pile of to-be-done but we'll see how long it takes me to get to them. Betrayal at Calth (BAC) is a GW box set of Space Marines that's both a board game and a kind of starter set for Horus Heresy 30k (which takes place before the Warhammer 40k sci fi - just for those who don't follow this). My LGS is doing an escalation league for 30k, and is running a contest for painting the box set. it's about 38 miniatures I think. Really hoping I win, even if I don't play the game because the prize is a free Horus Heresy book of our choice And I love books, even more than I love models so books about models... I'm THERE! Anyway here's my pics (except for the BAC which is still currently in its box lol) ^^ Slophaulers - because they, wait for it, haul slop Just finishing base really on these guys Somer - almost done, working on base now and just need cloth highlighted I think ^^ Skeeters (mosquitos) - trying out colour scheme, pretty much still basecoating although I did highlight their backs, wings and eyes (which still need glaze) Also trying to work on getting more lighting in my room for my light box :( so maybe my pictures will come out better =/ C&C is always welcome :) It helps me get better!
  23. When I do a WIP, I try to do something I haven't really tried before, just to keep expanding my skill set. This time, I'm going to borrow an idea from Pingo's WIP on Deathsleet (http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/59960-pingo-tackles-77110-deathsleet/?p=1082463) and try paint a black dragon with an iridescent color. The process is going to be a bit different, though. Instead of interference paint, I have a pack of pearlescent pigments I purchased in the past, but haven't really used yet: It probably works a lot like interference colors, but with mixing involved; measure out a small amount into a clear varnish (I did one spoonful of pigment to one full airbrush cup), mix well and spray over another color. I'm going to try painting over black to give an iridescent shine to the dragon's scales. Here's the obligatory first shot of the dragon, mounted on a housepaint stirrer for airbrushing, and primed and painted a 1:1 mix of Pure Black and Stormy Gray: Then I wanted to try out the various pigment colors, to see what they will look like, and to learn how the pearl colors handle. I sprayed a number of painting cups Stormy Gray and Pure Black, then tried the blue, red and purple pearl pigments: The red gave a very brown coloration over gray, and I rather liked the purple, and decided to save it for another project. (When drying a spray-painted bit over a space heater, be careful not to get it too close.) I Thought the blue pearl looked best for the dragon. I mixed the pearl into Liquitex Gloss Varnish (with just a little water to thin it), and sprayed the dragon: Whoa, that turned out really blue. Under normal light, the dragon is mostly a dull blue-gray with a few highlights, but under the daylight bulbs on my work desk, it really shines. The yellow light of an incandescent bulb counteracts the blue, but not the full spectrum lights. I'm letting it dry overnight. Tomorrow I'm going try defining the scales with a wash of Liner Gray, and that will decide if this dragon will be a black dragon or it becomes a blue dragon instead.
  24. Okie dokie, I have a new idea! See, I love the SL Dark Sword sculpt The Lovers. It's just so sweet. Normally when I look at a sculpt I try to accentuate whatever emotion I imagine the artist trying to evoke and build on that with my paint choice, basing and composition. This one reminds me of a wedding. I get all teary-eyed just thinking about the happiness. Lately though, I'm in the process of killing off my main protagonist in a story I'm writing. Don't hate me. It's necessary to drive the character arcs for my 3 main supporting characters. Plus, I feel like a story always means more when great sacrifice is involved. So I've got this sad ending ticking in the back of my brain. While pacifying my fitbit the other day I was struck by a bolt of figurative lighting! Why not use the above sculpt for a bittersweet story of eternal love. Meaning, I'll paint up the male as a spirit and the woman at the funeral remembering him. Yeah, I know. Depressing. Sigh. But, I betcha no one else has taken this tack, so at the very least it will be unique, the complete opposite of what the artist intended and it'll give me an excuse to play with Hard Colors. Yeah. That's when it hit me. White. Black. Sigh. I took the opportunity to try some experimentation while waiting for the primer to dry. I grabbed a bunch of colors I thought of as potentially working well to depict a spirit, knowing I'd need to use something fairly warm in the woman's palette to offset. I figured the warm white in the last pic wouldn't work, but I'd go ahead and paint up a bones victim in case I needed it another time. So, here's the result of my puttering. It might as well be useful: Now, before I painted them up, I'd have picked the green as being the most spirit-like and spooky. Plus I could go pink fleshy on my lady and get some red-green plus warm-cool contrast (which is usually a win-win.) As it turns out though, I like the blue example best. Hooray for experimentation! I'll add that these are very simple, done in about an hour overall (stupid paint-drying time) and usually with white it needs to be a bit more complex to look right. Remember that white is essentially a color of pure reflection. it's only highlights and shadows come from its surroundings. That's why I painted myself a bit of intense color around each of the "white" cloaks- it gives my a "reflection" to paint into the cloak. Normally, reflections are more complex, so it wouldn't be so one-note or flat. I'd use other colors in the mini or the base to add some depth. Then I chose my other colors: I took a pic because lately I'm leaving a lot of time in between painting sessions, so I'll forget otherwise. hah! So, base coating, just to make sure I like it: And painting! I forget sometimes to take in progress. Took about 3 hours or so. I wanted to tear the opposite head of the one I was working on at least twice to get to a corner. Sigh. worked less on the back, but here it is: Here's a closeup: the hair is coming along nicely! I'll try to get back to it soon! I'll be making a little vignette using the bones sarcophagus and some walls with fancy gothic-type windows. the floor will be a simple mosaic and I want to put some swirlies coming from the sarcophagus to the man. I'll try to figure out how much blue OSL to put on the walls and on the woman without it being too forceful and overwhelming her colors.
  25. Got a few miniatures in progress! Still struggling with taking decent photos, but my phone can only do so much I think. I may dig around in the settings to see if there's anything I can do to maybe improve the quality. These guys are being made for my Pathfinder group! Just have a few touchups left on them along with the bases to do. The orc is for the cleric, the lizardman is our druid, and the halfling paladin already had a mini for her character so I modified the Leprechaun and Owl mini to make her riding owl (added more fluff to the legs and removed the leprechaun)! I'm really happy with how the armor is coming out on the orc, and feel like I'm finally getting the hang of skin! The pictures don't do his armor justice. I'm also happy with how the lizardman came out in general, it was fun blending different colors for his scales. He has a bit of orange on his belly, throat, and thighs that unfortunately didn't really come out in these pictures.
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