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  1. Hi, I want to start this to get me motivated to get some accountability and hopefully guilt myself into working. So here is the very first of hopefully many steps. The first step is to prime the miniature, I've done that, the 2nd step? To photograph the miniature to capture the volumes of real light that shows where I want my light source. For this I want two light sources. So really that means I just used my computer screen and my ceiling light, adjust the miniature to taste and get the angle I want to set the light. The screen light is whiter and will be the light from outside the window, the yellower ceiling light will be my tavern fire light and will be the primary light source. The skin will be fairly shiny so this is pretty much a mandatory process to get those realistic sheens....because I'm literally stealing form reality it helps a lot. If I were a better painter I could fake the light sources with enough knowledge. Thankfully I have some serious shadows on the model, and my mid tones will have a lot of room for blending. The problem now? Picking my colors. What do I know? I know the floor is wood colored and the axe/haft materials I know that I'm going to want off white and pinks for eye whites and gums teeth etc. The gold of the primer is actually a really beautiful color for a fantasy creature, so I might see if I can't keep that. So Gold, pink, whites/off whites, and browns, I don't know if I want a two toned or patterned beholder. I think this is gonna be a challenge whatever I do. I think I want to go for a fleshy color
  2. Since I haven’t had a WIP in a very long time, I thought this mini would be perfect for it. I plan to paint her up for a Christmas gift for a friend and figured to keep me on track I’d do a WIP. I have a few minis in progress she’ll be my main priority after my Darksword Stephanie Law Bard. I prepped her and primed yesterday after the humidity finally dropped. My current projects in various stages on my desk. And just the pinup after some prep work A few places I could have spent more time on but figured I’ll prime and see what stands out. I used army painter matte black primer followed by Tamiya fine white primer. For the bits on her base I left them in black since she will be the focal point no need to use white on them, it’ll help the colors be a bit more muted. And finally my quick mock up for color checking. I usually just print a stock photo and use my paints over it to plan the general scheme. Now to finish up my bard then onto tackling her flesh. Since she’ll have a hint of sheer with her stocking I needed to be sure the color for her skin and the sheer works and won’t lose the effect due to the color choices. Feel free to post C&C throughout, or ask questions. I’m always happy to share what I can. I’ll do my best to share the steps I take and colors used. Happy painting everyone.
  3. I’m starting my first of the kid heroes from the Bones 5 core set. I really like the character design with the sharp looking long coat, cool hair and bone sword. I want to do something different with the skin on this one. I want to paint them as a moon elf, with cool undertones and warmer highlights. im going to try basecoating with a blue and highlight up to pinkish highlight. Not sure if this is going to work. Starting with a basecoat of ritterlich:dark elf at about 1:1. This is along the lines of what I’m going for with the skin. Putting this here for reference.
  4. The merfolk in Dark Depths sculpted by Bobby Jackson were one of the things I was most looking forward to in Bones 5. I chose the Mermaid Ranger for my RCL Q3 Large Group “Under the Sea”, and started work on her after ReaperCon. I've been trying to make bolder color choices, and thought this was a great mini to push myself in that direction. I’ve posted some WIPs on discord, but wanted to record the process here in a bit more detail. First I primed both rangers with Badger neutral primer, and then basecoated the tails and hair with 0963 Coal Black Then I tried to airbrush the tails with 09330 Wild Violet while leaving some dark shadows.
  5. Been working on these guys as a test for the squad color scheme. Trying some layering on the white, it's working out well so far. They're 1:48 scale, same as Star Wars Legion, and I've rebased them onto the same 27mm bases that Legion uses. Mostly because the standard D1947 bases are like 35mm. Way huge.
  6. Hi there all, I've decided to dive into the deep end with finally trying the scary world of OSL. 😄 Feel I've lost the plot on this ... so any advice on how to proceed with this would be greatly appreciated! (Having fun, though, despite not knowing what the hell I'm doing. 😁) I'm including a "top down" view, which is where I'm most confuddled. That dark line down his arm which represents the shadow from the staff which sits between the source of light ... it just doesn't look right to me. 🤔 So, I'm all ears for suggestions on improvements!
  7. Hello This is my first post really on forums. I normally post on Facebook. My wife and I paint models alot of the time side by side. Whilst I prep our quarterly contest entry we worked on these Storm Giants... About half way done.
  8. Most of these aren't up to date and I've changed bits of them here and there since these, I'll be saving those shots for the finished product, but hopefully you enjoy the journey.
  9. Bones 5 WIP is where the work starts in this thread. Expansions Dark Depths: WIP SHOWOFF Dungeon Dwellers: WIP SHOWOFF Brinewind: WIP SHOWOFF Brinewind Extras: WIP SHOWOFF Encounters Charnel Pit of the Ghoul Queen: WIP SHOWOFF Dwarf King's Crypt : WIP p4, 7-10 SHOWOFF Shadows of Ravenhome: WIP SHOWOFF Spiders of Emrith Kul: WIP SHOWOFF Add-ons Adventuring kids: WIP SHOWOFF Arakoth the Ancient: WIP SHOWOFF Handmaidens: WIP SHOWOFF Yog Sothoth: WIP SHOWOFF Maybe more I don't remember yet Starting with a dry fit of 19507 Spiders of Emrith Kul encounter set. Not sure what to do with those bodies in webs on the slot. Need to go back and look at the pics to see if I should cut them or see if I have a spare slotta base to stand them up. Backdrop is a black cardstock.
  10. This is it World Wide Miniatures Day 2021 is here, @maxstyles ways. I'll post my progress here over the weekend. Feel free to join me and post your WIP . Just for the fun of it. I cleaned and prepared these models during the week to be ready today. It's gonna be an Ogre weekend. Ready, set, paint!
  11. Assembled my crew and prepped and primed them. Two clopsen troopers, a lizardman recruit, sniper and another recruit/ chisler. A gnoll commando, medic and recruit, and a cultist recruit/hacker and trooper. Edit: It is a bit funny that My crew isn't using much of the actual Stargrave miniatures other than a few arms and guns, but then this is just the first crew, and I'll need some ruffians and pirates as well.
  12. Well 2020 is over and even though the year wasn't so great I did get my dragon goal of 12 dragons completed (actually completed 15 !) So with the new year I'm looking to try it again. The last year I did a bunch of dragons from all eras a d makes. This year I think I will make the challenge a little more specific. This year I'll try for 12 dragons from defunct companies: grenadier, Ral Partha, Thunderbolt Mountain, heritage, and others that are no longer producing today. Whether i include minis from companies that died recently, im not sure (and I know Ral Partha lives on as Iron Wind and Grenadier lives on as Merltion? But I'm including them because its my challenge and the ones I have are the originals. That said the first piece I did was the Bridge of Sorrows. It came out really well so I let my better half look through my old boxed sets and she chose the next one: Clutch of Fear! This is another mini that I have had sitting in its box waiting for decades to be completed and its time has come (besides if I really mess up they have started recasting the molds again so its not an utter disaster. Also, since i have this one in the original box, I thought i would do a WIP to show how it goes. Here is what it look like when I opened the box... All the parts are there, including the instructions (more on those in the future) and an "inspected by 3" as well as assembly instructions. Hope you all enjoy the ride. I'll try to be diligent with updates.
  13. So anyone who follows my planned goals for hobbying/painting in the Speed Painting subforum knows that I don't fair very well when it comes to monthly goals; I barely got one month's goal done last year. So this year I've decided to give myself a bit of leeway: an entire year to try to complete five hobby goals from 25 possibilities. The idea was inspired from Rob Hawkins' blog, that I've sporadically read for a few years. I've tried to tailor my card to areas in which I typically struggle yet still retain some fun, as well as to make sure that no path to victory is entirely easy for me. Given that I finished no models last year, this should still prove quite a challenge for me. A couple squares are time sensitive goals. To provide myself with a bit more incentive, I've decided to incorporate some health goals into the mix should I fail to achieve them. For example, if I'm attempting the assembly of 10 model in under a week, however many models I fall short by equals a number of physical exercises. I'm looking forward to it (both the exercise and getting through some of my stash). I'll do my best to post here so you all can keep me honest. Don't be afraid to ask me about my progress! -MvM
  14. I haven’t been on the forum much this year. Since joining Anne Foerster’s Patreon I’ve been spending more time on Discord. I’ve been painting this guy following the paintalong she’s done for one of the tiers. It’s the first time I’ve tried to do a “display quality” paint job. Other firsts are NMM, freehand, leather texture, cloth texture, and sculpted base elements. I actually started this guy early this year, but then stopped painting altogether for about 4 months after the pandemic started. I picked him back up in July and am getting close to finishing. I’m posting a series of pics I’ve taken as I went, and will continue to post as I finish him up soon. Feb 29: prepped and primed, with some minor GS work Mar 1: base GS sculpting — LONG BREAK — Aug 2: skin lined, basecoated, and shaded Aug 6: skin initial highlights
  15. So for awhile now I've had this goal, nay, this desire, nay, this primal compulsion to build a boat. It is not enough to have hand drawn maps, or 2D terrain tiles. I need a fully functioning 3D boat! Well, maybe not fully functioning. But I want to build a cool boat! I've been working on a nautical campaign full of swashbuckling, sailing, and sea monsters for a few years now. It's my White Whale project. Always just on the horizon. It'll happen some day, but in the meantime, I have a million small projects to complete and extend the chase. One of which is my desire to build a few different sized ships to enliven any possible naval combat. I actually attempted this about two years ago, just winging it and making some measurements and throwing them at some craft supplies. I wanted a cheap option that wasn't too difficult to repeat that way I wouldn't be discouraged from making multiple ships. So I limited it to cheap crafting materials like foamcore, wooden dials, popsicle sticks, and thumbtacks. And the result wasn't bad. Especially for my first attempt at any kind of terrain building. It actually turned out rather nice! To my surprise. But I got hung up on mast and sail designs and never finished. The wood on the deck had 2x1in grid carved into it for easier D&D use. and the figurehead was designed to be modular. However, overtime the boat collected dust and little scratches. I should have given it a coat of mod podge or sealant of some kind, but never did. And eventually it had an unfortunate run in with an injured owl that we took in for a night. Here's the little devil himself. Anyways, I put this project on the back burner for long enough and feel inspired to dive back in. Especially with a certain Bones ship on the Horizon that I'm still on the fence about getting. I was doing some browsing on the web and recently found this wonderful little blog complete with loose instructions and a plan from a now defunct wargamming site. The blog creator had found the old plan and adapted it to build something using most of the same materials I have already stockpiled. There's a few choices that I like better than my first attempt so I think I'm going to use this as some inspiration as I give this boat thing another go. My hold up now is still those darn masts. The original plan above used wood and required drilling out holes for the masts. The blogger use foam for his ship and found random bits of tubing to house his masts. I could try to find something random like that, but I was hoping to find something simpler for easy repetition. And I would also like to keep the masts loose so they can be removed for easy storage, or to swap out the sails. Any thoughts? Any resources, tips, recommendations are very welcome! I'll post back here with any updates.
  16. my second miniature! I finished this about a month ago, but my matte finish finally came in so it is truly complete on the painting front. I'll be making a base once I get into my new house, so once I get started on that I'll add more pictures.
  17. Hi Everyone, This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too. I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme. First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty. 2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced. 3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back. 4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye. 5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light. 6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together. Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
  18. Hello all! I'm working on the blacksting wyvern from bones 4, as you can see from the title. Getting ready to start base coating some color in and noticed an area I'm not sure if it is supposed to be anatomically correct or not filled In from when made. No it does not sit on anything either that they would plug into. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Happy painting and stay safe! -Z
  19. Well, while I let Devona dry, I’ll switch gears to a mini off the shelf of waiting... The plan is for an ice ogre, with blue-gray skin.
  20. Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one. I’ve shied away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon. In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon... oops! I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown). I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green. For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown. Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base. I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it. in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes. Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend. That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!! Thanks for looking.
  21. Since apparently I am incapable of working on a single project, here is another 3D print that is presently “under the brush”. Seemed sadly appropriate for these days. Here he is before the cure. a little Vallejo black primer. Picked out the beak with Vallejo Dark Fleshtone by brush. Went back to the airbrush and hit all the black parts with Reaper Coal Black (seriously, is there another black?!). The beak then got some Reaper Rich Leather mixed with increasing amounts of Model Air Sand, focusing the lighter sand colour on top. The straps for the mask were painted with Rich Leather as well. The beak then got a drybrush of straight Vallejo model Air Sand, followed by a very light and selective dry brush with Warcolours White. The black then got a heavy dry brush of Reaper Jungle Mist. next up will be some washes with some details being picked out and some metallic around the goggle lenses. Thanks for looking.
  22. Working on the Stone Giant. I'm looking for any constructive criticism but especially of the highlighting on the flesh. Not sure if I am finished or if it needs more highlights on the flesh. Everything else just is base colors and has not been worked on other than that. He came missing the the left hand and club.
  23. Needing a break from resin (and not knowing how I want to paint my latest print), I have turned back to more basic crafting with xps foam. Leaning heavily on the teachings of Black Magic Craft on YouTube. These were also good to pick at during the seemingly 10000 hours of teleconferences I was on last week. 3/4” by 2.5” forms were cut and deck screws added to one end to provide some weight. I next marked out every 1/4”, then scored then with the knife and speed square. The verticale cuts were eyeballed about 1/3 of the way in on alternating rows (I did half one way, the other reversed to add some variety). I then went over all the cuts with a pen to increase the indent and soften the inner edges. I then cut out the end caps 1” square and textured everything, pillars included with rolled up tin foil. Lastly, I used hot glue to assemble the pieces. hope to get them primed tomorrow and then a quick paint job on Sunday. Not that we’re playing D&D these days but I hope to have a few more pieces of terrain ready to go for when all this horrible stuff passes and we can resume our normal routines. Thanks for looking.
  24. I base coated this guy (Otherworld Shadow 1 of 2) in Reaper Nightmare Black (a gorgeous blue-black) and drybrush highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Oceanic Blue and Pure White. I think he looks done! Thoughts? Too heavy on the dry brush? I plan to use some Vallejo Ground Texture on the base. Happy to hear comments and criticism.
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