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  1. There is a dude who hosts an online painting and chat time through Google Hangouts. It's tons of fun. I have attended several, and met quite a few characters in the process. Overall, they are great group of people who share in my hobby of painting. Here is one of the pieces I was working on while chatting tonight. Its part of a desert theme I have been working on. There is also a scorpion, a group of gnolls, and a group of kobolds The worm will be a boss of sorts, offering my players a hefty challenge. He is still a WIP, but so far, I am really liking the way everything is coming out. The white specks are going to be colored in, but I have at least 1-2 more layers to add for some highlights on the skin before I dive into the details. CAH
  2. OK folks this is my most recent attempt at painting. I decided to do this mini in the color scheme of the Protectorate of Menoth from Warmachine. Basically I am doing a test paint to acclimate myself to the colors and techniques that I will use as I begin painting several minis for the Mk III release of Warmachine. I need some help though, I have had several missteps in this paint thus far and am struggling to see this as a success. 1) How should I highlight the white? Should I do darker tones around the highlight areas? 2) Should I use some liner to try and add some more contrast? I feel like the sculpt wasn't the best and then my mediocre painting skills don't help and I feel like a lot of the details this mini did have have been obscured by my crappy painting abilities. 3) I REALLY don't know how to highlight the top cape and the crest on the shield as that color is a combo of Bloodstain Red,Violet Light and then glazed over with Clear Magenta. I know that's a lot but there are very specific colors for the faction and I am trying to get as close to that as possible. 4) Can someone please explain Ink's to me? I used a red ink on the bottom cape as it was suggested somewhere else to help with contrast on similar colors and while I like the outcome, it shifted the color in a way that I didn't expect and am not certain how or why inks are used. 5) Finally, if anyone does play Warmachine as Menoth I would like to know what your thoughts are on my colors; I am currently only using Reaper paints.
  3. Working on this Female warrior. Very happy with it so far.
  4. When I do a WIP, I try to do something I haven't really tried before, just to keep expanding my skill set. This time, I'm going to borrow an idea from Pingo's WIP on Deathsleet (http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/59960-pingo-tackles-77110-deathsleet/?p=1082463) and try paint a black dragon with an iridescent color. The process is going to be a bit different, though. Instead of interference paint, I have a pack of pearlescent pigments I purchased in the past, but haven't really used yet: It probably works a lot like interference colors, but with mixing involved; measure out a small amount into a clear varnish (I did one spoonful of pigment to one full airbrush cup), mix well and spray over another color. I'm going to try painting over black to give an iridescent shine to the dragon's scales. Here's the obligatory first shot of the dragon, mounted on a housepaint stirrer for airbrushing, and primed and painted a 1:1 mix of Pure Black and Stormy Gray: Then I wanted to try out the various pigment colors, to see what they will look like, and to learn how the pearl colors handle. I sprayed a number of painting cups Stormy Gray and Pure Black, then tried the blue, red and purple pearl pigments: The red gave a very brown coloration over gray, and I rather liked the purple, and decided to save it for another project. (When drying a spray-painted bit over a space heater, be careful not to get it too close.) I Thought the blue pearl looked best for the dragon. I mixed the pearl into Liquitex Gloss Varnish (with just a little water to thin it), and sprayed the dragon: Whoa, that turned out really blue. Under normal light, the dragon is mostly a dull blue-gray with a few highlights, but under the daylight bulbs on my work desk, it really shines. The yellow light of an incandescent bulb counteracts the blue, but not the full spectrum lights. I'm letting it dry overnight. Tomorrow I'm going try defining the scales with a wash of Liner Gray, and that will decide if this dragon will be a black dragon or it becomes a blue dragon instead.
  5. I've been working on two of the minis that came with my Reaper Bones Learn to Paint kit. I've tried to follow the directions pretty much step-by-step, and I think they're coming along pretty well. Some observations I've made as a new painter: 1) Separated paints need be shaken very thoroughly, even sometimes to the point of popping off the dropper cap and stirring them with a toothpick or something similar before shaking them. Big thanks to Mad Jack and Inarah for pointing this out and suggesting getting some small glass beads to drop in the bottles and act as agitators. I never would have thought of that. 2) Some areas will require multiple coats of paint, and you must wait for the previous coat to dry before applying the next one. It doesn't take that long to dry, but if you try to paint over wet paint it will just mess up the first layer. This may be a duh kind of thing, but it's also one I learned by trial and error (mostly error). 3) Look at the mini you're painting from a bunch of different angles. This will help you find any spots you missed, and you will miss some. Also, taking pictures can help find areas that need to be touched up. I've found this very useful, so I've started taking pictures whenever I decide to take a break or get to a point where I have to wait for something to dry before moving on. Use the zoom, Luke! It may be that nobody finds any of that useful, but I thought I would share it just in case. It's the kind of things that weren't covered in the painting guide or that I've seen in videos or write-ups that I've watched/read online so far. If anybody has other tips or tricks they use, please let me know. I do learn from mistakes, but I'd rather avoid them if possible. Thanks! Illustration of what separated (read: not shaken enough) green paint looks like applied to a mini's base: Properly shaken green paint applied as a second coat (also note touched up steel toes on boots): Skeleton after base coat, wash, and first drybrush highlight: Skeleton after second drybush highlight and detail colors:
  6. Whew! So I had a busy weekend. Still recuperating. I had the awesome opportunity to travel to Reaper HQ (nice bones prototypes floating around there...) and take a Master class with Kirill Kanaev (Yellow One on CMON) who is a fantastic teacher and truly amazing painter! I had a wonderful time, but for much of the class I realized that I could not paint AT ALL. Actually, I'm pretty sure all of us felt that way! Really. I'm not kidding. The style of painting, brushes and technique were completely different than what I was used to. It was a mind-blowing experience. So I'll try to share a bit of the process! I had this grand plan of doing a step by step, but got distracted painting, so it'll be a bit of a leap here or there. First, pretty sure Kirill sculpted the bust we used. Mad props! It has a bunch of different areas to play with like metal, leather, cloth and skin! The first thing we did was learn about volume. There is never enough volume. Everyone needs more volume! I kid, but it took us all a bit of thinking before we figured out how to apply this. We looked at zones of the face, and the color ranges found in each. This is from the Gurney book: And it makes sense if you think about a face. I ended up picking Jack Nicholson as my model to copy. The idea is to copy the 2-D pic with matching skin tones onto the 3-D bust, and map out zones of highlight-shadow. Yeah... so this took a bit but eventually I figured it out. And It was fun to choose colors to match the skintone and mix until I got the right ones! Um, I used: olive green, creamy ivory, rust red, green ocher, red shadow, soft blue for most of this. I added in some pure white and black later. And metallics later as well, but I'll get to the armor later... the fun part was I didn't use a single "skin" color!!! You can see where I played with colors below on the watercolor paper. I like doing that to get a sense of where I'm heading and my choices. too yellow moving in the right direction better... but dark. ah hah! So that's what he means when he says volume- make the highlights cover the forehead, cheeks, chin in a geometric pattern that matches the general sense of frontal highlighting. It only took 4 hours for me to get it. sigh. triangles for cheeks, chin is a circle, forehead sort of a circle, ignoring all the lines and stuff. I had to forget the anatomy of the bust and focus on the anatomy of the 2-D pic, concentrating on the type of lighting I was mimicking. He showed us this later using the airbrush on the fire giantess to demo directional lighting. blurry iphone, but you can see the general schemes and the areas that end up shadowed and lighted. Anyway, we all painted for about 8 hours, our brains imploded and we went out for alcohol. er, I mean, class was dismissed and we had free time... here's day 1, all of us. You can see the different skintones we chose based on our very unique reference photos. I really liked Rhonda's bronze skin and Anne's pale zombie-dead skin! So day 2 we split on those who wanted to work further on the face (wow, there was a lot of detailing in that group!) and those of us wanting to practice textures. Yay textures! I'm a smooth blender, so playing with another way to approach fabrics was super! Here's Kirill demoing stuff: He doesn't use a wet palette, that's Jen's in front of him. He uses a teeny tiny brush, like a 2-0. I think the Russians have nicer brushes since those pesky kolinskies live there... My basecoat plus an attempt at stippling. a tiny brush works best for this. really, the stipples need to be even tinier than the ones I have. I need to buy smaller brush... here's a closeup. This is a fun texture. it uses the tip of the brush, so don't use your nice brush to try it out. The same idea for highlights and shadows applies. Start with stipplies in the shadows and gradually work up to highlights. Like a rough wool. We also did cross-hatching. It makes and insanely smooth gradient that I think is even nicer than a blended area. again, I need to make smaller hatches more closely spaced than these. The idea is to draw the cloth structure in using the lines, so they aren't spaced, they're layered vertical-horizontal, etc etc. Layers and layers. Looks like linen or canvas. So soft! I kind of got distracted and forgot to take pictures on the metal, fur and leather. But the metal was another mind-altering experience. What he did was take a base metallic color, mix it (like demi-metallic) with a greenish-brown paint and some gloss medium/varnish in order to keep the shine. the whole metal we coated in a yellow-brown over top of the metal basecoat. It lent a very realistic sheen to the area. then we added in dents, bloodstains, rust and scratches. I went and bought myself some vallejo chrome since it's shiny- it works great for random scratches. What I liked about this part was trying to make the metal look real, rather than perfect. here's a front with my fur, partial leather and metal. the deep scratches were a thin layer of my red shadow mixed with, er, stuff... can't remember- but anyway a dark color washed out above and a light line drawn below to mimic that hard edge. You can see a bit of the chrome lines tucked in there. It's hard to photo metallics, so I can see why a lot of folks prefer NMM. the bloodstain get gloss medium. The rust doesn't. He always mixes in a bit of the base metallic with whatever he's using to shade to keep the shine! Here's all of us at the end of day 2: You can see the different metal effects we played with and the range of skintones! And which of use kept up with the faces versus textures. I stayed a bit later on monday and got in some last minute pre-flight stubble instruction. I used the soft blue mixed with black and some of my olive, though I think I need to back away on the green. Too much green, needs more blue/purple. Anyway, it was awesome and fun and exhausting and I can try to dig through the rest of the photos and my notes if anyone wants more. I bought a second bust to practice on, so I may use this thread with an entirely different reference photo and start all over! Now I want to paint busts!!!
  7. Got tired of painting people, so why not paint some mechs! I tried to go for a really clean separation between the armor plates, I need to go back and darken the lines around the feet I think. I plan on bringing the orange up super bright, almost to a yellow. That part might be a bit tricky though, as I don't actually have any orange paints and have just been mixing red and yellow XD. We'll see how it turns out. I'll also be finding some fun symbols or ID numbers to put on the white spots on the back and the side of the cockpit. I don't have any idea what color I'll paint the cockpit glass yet, maybe yellow or grey.
  8. For my first ever WIP and my first ever entry in the Reaper yearly contest I thought I'd start with... This guy http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/cyclops/sku-down/14396 He will be on... This thing I made I started making the base for the pathfinder red dragon who was going to be painted up as a swamp dragon. Well,that never happened. I've decided to use it for this guy and his goblin friend instead. I'm not quite finished with it. I still need to add more stuff, swamps are full of stuff. I'm also thinking it could use a tree with some vines behind were the figure will be standing. So far, the mini is in several parts with most mold lines removed. No need for pics of that at this point. :-) I'm sure I'll need lots of advice for this, thanks in advance! I've only put together one metal multi-part mini that I needed to fill in joints so I'm pretty new to that. In fact, I'm pretty new to basing as well. Thanks for looking! As always comments amd criticisms welcome and encouraged.
  9. This is the year to finish (or at least make major progress on) the epic Dragons Don't Share bones II model. To start with, the washing... and the boiling... And finally, the base elements are ready for cleaning: More details can be found here and here. More to come in the weeks ahead.
  10. Continuing the WIP from http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/64819-lexomatics-fall-2015-wip I'll be working on my shelf of shame minis, trying some bones 2 anhurians, some outstanding hearthstone minis, and maybe some more animals and skeletons, and ice walls and slimes. Also some zombicide crows (as lots of different birds
  11. After receiving my Krackotoans from Dragon Bait, I thought I'd work on a bunch of related undersea encounters (mostly from Bones)
  12. This is my very first WIP topic here, and my very first time painting minis at home. My prior experience is painting about 15 minis in one-hour paint-and-take sessions at Reaper's booths at various PAX conventions over the last year. That's done with brushes that have been pretty beat up by other convention-goers, no palette suitable for thinning paints, and of course a rather short period of time. It was a lot of fun, it got me hooked, and I had a few results I'm actually pretty happy with, but I feel like a complete beginner about to paint his very first mini. I have never really done one before properly, at least as I see it, and very few of those 15 minis reached a "finished" state in my mind. Consequently, this WIP is going to be pretty exciting for me, and a huge learning experience. What will it be like to have no time crunch? What will happen when I start mixing and thinning paints like I've seen a lot of you do? What level of detail will I be able to achieve with properly-tipped brushes and binoculars on my head? Well, I want to learn a lot, and for that, I figure the more practice I have, the more systematically I go about it, the better off I'll be. To that end, I have amassed a veritable horde of orcs. 77042 Orc Marauder (Sword and Shield) x3 77045 Orc Hunter (Spear) x3 77051 Orc Stalker (Two Weapons) x2 77056 Orc Sniper (Archer) x3 77059 Orc Berserker (Two Handed Sword) x2 77064 Kavorgh, Orc Warboss x1 Yes indeed, 14 orcs in total, which will mean I'll basically be doubling the number of minis I've painted with my very first real project. It's ambitious, but I am an ambitious sort of guy, and I figure painting 14 figures that are all pretty similar will give me a lot of practice for new techniques I want to learn. Also, and I feel like this matters, the orcs are relatively large, so I'll be able to paint just a little less precisely and not ruin things, and also have a larger "canvas" to get experience on. One small problem. I don't actually have my paints yet! So why did I make this topic now? Well, the paints will come on Tuesday, and I want the weekend to really look these figures over and think about colors and how I'm going to do them. I'm posting the WIP now to sort of think about that process "out loud" and maybe get a little advice before starting. Plus, well, I'm really enthusiastic. One thing I'm gonna do is paint every individual orc of each type with some different skin tones. I figure orcs, like humans, have some pigment variations in their skin across the population. Over the long history of whatever fantasy world these guys are from, there would have been migrations of different orc populations, and random mutations (or magical mutations), and so a clan or orcs would be genetically diverse enough so not every orc looks the same. Since these orcs are all bald, I can't experiment too much with hair, so instead I'll experiment with skin. The other thing I'll do is mix up the leather or fur they're wearing under their armor. Using just a bit of different color will help me diversify the horde, and make it easier to differentiate them all in a tabletop setting. Where possible, I'll try to contrast these leather or fur colors with their skin colors, for a nicer effect. The armor, eyes, and teeth will probably all be the same for each of them. I'll paint the plate armor with dark metallics, and the mail with light metallics washed with black. My intention is to make their armor look well-used and not shiny-new. I'll probably give the war boss some nicer, shinier armor. Maybe some gold. I may try to do some freehand on his plate mail to give it a little tribal significance or an intimidation factor. I'll try to vary things a little with details like bloodstains for the melee orcs. I may also attempt some war paint. We'll see. For reference, I'll be looking at the examples in the inspiration gallery. Of particular interest to me is the skin color Citrine got on a couple of these minis, the skin on this one by Jeremie Bonamant Teboul and the furs by Slashhamster. My rough plan for dealing with these orcs is as follows, though of course no plan survives first contact with the enemy. 1. Clean the minis. I got a new toothbrush for just this occasion. 2. Quick coat with brown liner. 3. Eyes. I've been reading and re-reading the various tutorials and topics on them. 4. Base coat the skin. 5. Base coat leather, furs, and armor 6. Finish skin 7. Finish chainmail 8. Finish furs and leathers 9. Plate armor 10. Weapons and shields 11. Detail work 12. Sealer I'll try to do all 13 orc mooks at the same time, step by step, and then do the warboss at the very end after I've learned as much as I can about orcs from the earlier painting. I'll be taking detailed notes as I go, writing down recipes and each step I take, especially with skin. I'll also be photographing a lot. My mini photo booth is ready and waiting (well, backdrops come tomorrow). Right now I'm thinking about five different skin colors I'd like to try with my orcs. I'll try to do at least two orcs of each color, avoid duplicating colors for the same orc minis, and I'll paint the warboss with my favorite result. Brownish-Green I'll start with a green base coat and then layer on some brown. I don't really care for the Warcraft-style bright green orcs, but I think green is a decent color to work with for them. I'll aim for a fairly dark green with enough red in there that you figure he still bleeds red. Brownish-Yellow I'm going to try to match Citrine's orc skin as close as I can, because it's awesome. It looks like khaki and muddy brown or brown sand. Citrine, if you're reading this and remember what you did, I'd love some tips. Greenish- Orange In other words brownish-yellow, right? Well, maybe, but darker. I'm not exactly sure how to describe the color I'm thinking of, but I'll know it when I see it. More brown, less khaki. Reddish-Brown I think of this as a sort of rage brown. Good for a berserker. I'll probably base coat a darker brown and then layer on reds. I might even throw in a little purple there. Orc smash! Gray Sort of a Lord of the Rings orc skin color. I think I'll base coat with a dark orange of all things and then layer on grays and maybe some tan highlight. If, as I'm mixing, I stumble across any other skin colors, or a different way of doing what I'm thinking of doing, I'll certainly talk about that here in the topic. I'll be happy to hear from anyone with skin tips, while this topic is running. It's a little too early to start thinking about the leather and fur pairings, since I don't even know yet which orcs will get which skin colors and not every orc mini has leather or fur. Still, I'm thinking I'll probably do the sorts of furs you'd find in highlands, as I imagine these orcs live in the shadows of mountains. They raid settlements for livestock and slaves and live a nomadic lifestyle, retreating back into the hills where organized parties of soldiers can't track them down too easily to end the threat once and for all. So, wolf fur, deer fur, maybe even mountain goat fur. The leathers I can have a little more leeway with since leather can be stained a variety of colors. I'll use what I think is appropriate in contrast with skin tone, though I'll probably stick to brown leathers of various shades. Wood is another interesting set of decisions to make. There's the shields and spear shafts. I've seen a couple good tutorials already, but I'll want to see some more before I do them. I think I'll probably go with old, aged wood. The shields may provide some interesting opportunities for freehand painting. I'm aiming for a blackened steel type color for the armor plates, as a base coat. I may get adventurous and start experimenting with a little color on top to dull them out and age them. I'll probably try some highlights as well with a lighter metallic. For details, I want to see if I can do a freehand painted design representing their clan, and make it look like it was smeared on there with a crude old brush (at their scale), or even finger-painted (at their scale). Could be a challenge to replicate that effect, but maybe I can do it. I'll spend some time thinking about what orcs would use as a thick, crude paint, what color that would be, and what technique I'd need to replicate that. And oh yes, there will be blood. Anyway, no pictures today, since there's nothing to see, really. Best I could give you is some pictures of unpainted minis against a very white background and that wouldn't be very fun to look at. Paints should arrive by Tuesday, so just four days to go. I'd appreciate any comments, advice, well-wishes, etc. in the meantime, and I hope you enjoy following along as I ramble about orc skin and teach myself to paint almost from scratch. As a bonus, I've been taking a drawing class (crazy me, starting two hobbies at the same time), and maybe I'll sketch some of these minis every so often and post those sketches. It's a non-credit, casual sort of thing at a local art museum, and the first class was only just last night so I can't promise quality, but it'll be good practice for me and maybe it'll help me figure out what I want to paint. It would also combine all three of my artistic hobbies (painting, drawing, photography) into one giant megahobby and completely take over my life. Just as a disclaimer, I would really thank you for your constructive criticism throughout this topic, even if it's harsh. Only way I'll get better is if people don't treat me with kid gloves and I can guarantee you'll never be able to hurt my feelings. I find that infinitely more useful than just a quick bit of nonspecific praise. If I've done something well, tell me specifically what that thing is, and if there's a way to do it better let me know that too. Of course some things will just be stylistic choices, but I still like to hear about how other people do things. I'm my own worst critic but I'm sure there's stuff I'll miss so let me know where I'm in need of improvement.
  13. Started a new barbarian (of course), this is the one I got from Catacombs. He made his way towards the front of the queue pretty quickly after I received him. His name is Torgils the Black Wolf More pics later!
  14. I am currently working a conversion of the "50281: Dr Charles Bennet, Steampunk Hero" Reaper figure to use for a Mutant Alchemist/Mage I am playing in a MSHRPG (FASERIP system) game I am playing in. Since I did not think of taking a photo of the miniature before I started working on it so here is the image from the Reaper webstore instead. All the images I post will be links to larger versions in-case someone wants to see them since they show more detail. To start with I am going to replace the rifle with a sword, but I plan to add some more things (like a magic tome) if I can find something that looks right to me. I am going to use the far right sword from Reapers "P14056A: Weapon Spru Mixed w/Swords [03447 A]" weapon spru found in "03447: Weapons Pack 7" and "14056: Weapon Pack I". I started by carefully cutting off the steampunk rifle from his hand being careful to minimize damage to the hand. The stock of the rifle was bent so it was laying on his glove and coat sleeve for some reason so I had to cut it off of his forearm. I started the cut at the base of the stock and cut upwards towards his hand using the exposed section of the stock as a guide. I used a #12 scalpel blade to start the cut and finished it with a #15 scalpel blade, it took quite a while. It took me about 4 hours to remove the rifle this way but I removed it with relatively little damage to the miniature and will probably be able to use the rifle on something else later since it survived removal in good condition. You can see a pretty bad mold line on the top of his right arm and shoulder (left side of the image) that would have been hard to remove without damaging the gun if it was still there. I setup my tripod instead of hand-holding the camera after seeing these pictures so the detail gets better in the images from here on. After this I need a break from the arm so I cleaned the mold lines off of the miniature, the ones under his left arm are very hard to get at because it is held close to his body. I then drilled out the rifle grip remaining in his had with a bit just a little smaller than the grip itself in a pin vise. After that I used a #15 scalpel blade and hobby knife to cut out the rest of the grip and separated the thumb and index finger from the rest so they can be repositioned around the sword later. Then I carved and filed the excess material off the fingers and back into finger shapes. Looking at this image I can see I missed some of the leftover grip on the tips of two of the fingers. I also will need to add a little back to the top of the index finger, thumb, and maybe the top of the hand when I attach the sword to the hand. Here is one taken at the same step which I included the sword in after checking if it fits in the hand (it fits very well). You can see that I have not cleaned the mold line off of the sword yet in the full size image. I will also need to replace some of the sleeve that has been lost and build up and shape a piece of the glove with a epoxy putty. That will have to wait until I slightly reposition the arm since the brim of the hat is in the way of the sword blade right now. I am not entirely sure how I want to do that so I don't dent the pewter. I have until Tuesday when I will have time to work on it more to decide if anyone has a suggestion. Here are all the tools I used so far, most of them files.
  15. Got a few miniatures in progress! Still struggling with taking decent photos, but my phone can only do so much I think. I may dig around in the settings to see if there's anything I can do to maybe improve the quality. These guys are being made for my Pathfinder group! Just have a few touchups left on them along with the bases to do. The orc is for the cleric, the lizardman is our druid, and the halfling paladin already had a mini for her character so I modified the Leprechaun and Owl mini to make her riding owl (added more fluff to the legs and removed the leprechaun)! I'm really happy with how the armor is coming out on the orc, and feel like I'm finally getting the hang of skin! The pictures don't do his armor justice. I'm also happy with how the lizardman came out in general, it was fun blending different colors for his scales. He has a bit of orange on his belly, throat, and thighs that unfortunately didn't really come out in these pictures.
  16. Since Inarah post a end of year painting binge I though I give it a go, but at my pace. She is attempting 20 in 10 days. I'm attempting 3+ in 10 days. Which for me is speed painting. Granted one is over halfway. A second it 90% finished, just working on the base. The third will be the hasslefree's strumpet. So... Um.... Yeah.... Binge painting. The + is any other work I managed to get done on top of those. Here is a shot the strumpet: And here is my current WIP that I hope (or dream) to get finished by Xmas:
  17. So I've been secretly painting a little, and not updating. I'm planning on doing a little bit more of both going forward. Currently I'm working on 2/3 of a pack of extra zombies for zombicide, a lot of undead from bones 2 (mostly skeletons, and some ghasts which are just waiting to get varnished at this point. and a few other items I haven't yet decided on - hopefully shelf of shame stuff so I can clear it off, and maybe a few modern pc types. 77159 ghast (#1 yellow cloth) a few WIP photos sometime this weekend.
  18. Ok, time to attempt another WIP. As you can tell from the title I plan to paint up Bonesylvania Chibi Morty and Cal. Along the way I plan to paint up my remainder Bone 1 and Bones 2 skeletons. All these hopefully by the end of July. Where I stand with my Figures at the beginning of July. Morty: Cal: 1 of my 3 Bones 1 skeleton archers: My Bones 2 skeletons:
  19. Continued from here Focusing on finishing Ulfred. Some highlights on the face and hands. Perhaps also the vague hint of eyes? I really hate painting eyes... >.< Various highlights on the rest of the model. I think he's coming along nicely. Now onto shading.
  20. Because I Seem to progress faster when I make one of these and because I failed getting mine out on time I thought I post to show that I am pretty far along on my Exchange mini. Here is where he stands [Hiding behind spoiler tags in case Generic fighter still wants to be surprised]
  21. I posted an orc barbarian a few days back that I was working on. He's one of the characters in the Fantasy AGE campaign I'm running. I bought other models for the other characters but couldn't find anything quite right, so I got as close as I could and figured I'd modify them later. Apparently tonight's the night to start that work... I'd already put brown liner on them before deciding I really was going to modify the figures, in case you're wondering what's going on with them. (Sorry for crummy pictures, I was experimenting with using my webcam... Man I really need to find that digicam that I know should be kicking around the house somewhere...) Anyway! First up - 77165 - Hellakin Gorecutter, Halfling Rogue. This is the model I've chosen for the party mage, who for some reason has decided he wants to run around with a morningstar. It's worth noting that the mace is his arcane implement - he channels his magic through it, including healing magic... The most terrifying healer ever. (Actually the healing spell doesn't need to be channelled through it, we just thought it would be hilarious if his way of healing his friends was to hit them with his morningstar.) I cut off the sword in his right hand and attached a short brass rod, which'll be greenstuffed into a morningstar shortly. Next is 77218 - Woody Stumpwimple, Halfling Ranger. This is our party rogue. Except he doesn't use a bow, so I've chopped the bow out of his left hand, and I'm in the process of cutting the arrows out of the quiver on his back. The character is in love with his arquebus, and I'm still deciding whether he's going to be holding that in his left hand or if I'll have him holster it on his back (in what used to be the quiver) as if he's Ash or something. The final member of the party is 77021 - Lindir, Elf Archer. He doesn't require any modifications, so I don't have him with me right now to take pictures... If you want to know what he looks like, go look at the link.
  22. Been working on the old metal Kirai crew box and not quite sure what to do next. Needs a spot of some contrasting color, I think, but not sure what or where.
  23. I decided it was time to upgrade the shelving system: Those aren't finished, I plan on getting one more sand shelf. The old storage for these has been put to use for board games:
  24. Taking a break from my other WIP thread of the huge Reaper order to work on something I picked up from eBay the other day. Origen Art's The Final Battle, a lovely (and insanely detailed) almost Spartan like female elf https://thecursedmonkeys.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/elfablancanegro450.jpg- offical image of her I'll be doing her more as a wood elf, as she's for a specific character called Elisven that'll be introduced into the RP I write with Komplex in the nearish future Anyway, onto the model She arrived very well protected, in a hard plastic case Started out by cleaning up and dry fitting parts, before doing some sub assembly Sir Forscale for... scale Painted her skin a relatively pale colour Next up will be her boots, then I'll work up as I usually do
  25. Continued from here Robert of Carlistle Wall roughtly basecoated. Buidling highlights on the armor. Some shading on the top tabbard. Highlight on the coat. Ready for the floor polish dip! And here he is in the Show Off forum
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