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Found 105 results

  1. This thread is a place to share images of and ideas for materials to use on bases and dioramas. Remember, no commercial links. The goal is to share ideas and show what we have on hand. INDEX Aryanun's photo of basing supplies. George's flock and grass thread.
  2. So there was some discussion in the Randomness thread about basing materials and if there would be any interest in a basing version of the Box of Goodwill. Since basing is one of my favorite things and I have collected a lot of various basing materials, I volunteered myself to get this started. I think this would be good for both people new to basing but it could also benefit those that already have stuff. Those new to basing would be able to start building their supply of materials while those that have some already might be able to get material that may not be readily available where they live and it would provide an opportunity for them to unload stuff they may have too much of. For example, one of the things that I love to use in basing is pine bark but I do not have any trees near me but someone else might have trees in their backyard. On the other hand, I have collected a lot of cork in various thickness and I was given some plasticard for Christmas that I rarely use, both of those would be good for someone new to basing. Also people will use something on their bases that someone else may not have thought to use and so putting some in the box may spark someone's imagination. So who is interested? Any thoughts?
  3. Hello everyone! I recently started painting miniatures after playing D&D for a short period of time and needing some figures for me and my partner. So, this is my very first attempt at painting miniatures! I found it really exciting and have painted up some more since these two, but I would still love to get some comments on these. (I am sorry if the pictures aren't great, I live in Sweden and daylight is rare this time of year...) Both was painted with craft acrylics at first, so the colours might not be great. I fixed the face of the halfling after purchasing some Citadel paint instead and the difference in both handling and result was enormous! If requested, I might add some photos of details, but these will do for now (since I'm pretty lazy). Happy Holidays!
  4. So last winter I painted up some Reaper dragons. I thought about submitting them to the Reaper 3rd Annual Large Model Paint Challenge, but I was somehow dissatisfied. They were painted, but a little ... lacking. Also they had a tendency to tip over one way or another. For the most part, until now I haven't based. At the most I glue minis to pennies or fender washers and paint them illusionistically. But there's a first time for everything, and this time I wished to base these dragons. I started with the two smaller dragons, the fire dragon and shadow dragon. I traced them and drew contour maps for a layer or two of foam core board. I figured I'd try the lowest layer as a shape of bristol illustration board, something I had lying around, and I would glue them together and contour the shapes with epoxy. Here are the foam core shapes traced onto the board. And cut out with their pattern pieces; the bristol board too (at the top).
  5. I recently picked up the Dragons Don't Share boxed set, and was really taken with the terrain pieces. So I decided to undertake a hefty terrain project. The Bones pieces and slate were glued to a cork sheet, which was then glued to the back of a metal pizza pie plate. The ground was covered with small tallus pebbled, and then with a sand mix. Many different grades of static grass, flock, tufts, wildflowers, climbing ivy and moss covering were used to finish off the base and rubble. Hope you like it. Kevin in Edmonton http://www.mageknightkevin.blogspot.ca
  6. And finally, my thirtheenth and last finished mini of November 2015, which is the Treespeaker (SKU 112004) from DGS games, modified to hold the Bones dragon familiar from Familiar Pack 77176 in her hand. The casting did not seem to be very good on this particular mini, the details seemed soft and almost non existant (I have not seen this to be the case with other DGS minis), and her face did not turn out that great. I tried a lot of different color schemes until I finally just decided to finish her.
  7. This is the Shaerileth figure. I wanted to do a black & white/greyscale figure, set off with a single accent colour. Well, in this case it was red blood! Kevin in Edmonton http://www.mageknightkevin.blogspot.ca Edit: Ah, as a new user, I've just discovered that you can't show a nude figure here. No problem. If you'd like to see other images of this figure (from the front, for example) you can just travel to my blog, linked in my signature. Thanks everyone!
  8. Here is my take on Narthrax. He's a gift for our local Domestic Violence Shelter's art auction. I ended up leaving him with a gloss sealer due to weather issues, so he didn't photo as well. Also, I think it was still wet when I took these. Sigh. I love this sculpt- he's just so dynamic and the wings are awesome to paint. The details Julie puts into these guys in terms of animal influences are fantastic. So much personality! I wanted some color contrast, so I put some of the blue-green as a reflection in his under belly I love using red and green together. The colors for the whole thing are walnut brown, carnival purple, mahogany brown, brilliant blue and sun yellow. I did use some white for the mouth as well. The base is done with hot glue, glitter, greenstuff, some extra weapons and sand/rocks. I pinned his tail to the base to get him to stand straighter and nailed the right foot into the base for extra strength- I greenstuffed scales over the nail. you can see where the middle foot area is "thicker" from the nail. he ended up more yellow than I wanted, but I ran out of time to go back and wash in the midtones. Next time. Enjoy! C&C always welcome and I love answering questions!!
  9. I have these circular magnets, 3/4-inch in diameter, filling a small box in my garage, and I thought I might have a use for them. I had heard about using washers and a magnetic base for transporting figures, and figured it might work in reverse. As the photo shows, they fit nearly perfectly in a Reaper 1-inch base, and raise it up about 1/16-inch above the table's surface. I figured out which side of the magnets was north (by dangling a stack of them from a string), and I glued about magnets into six bases with the north pole facing up. I even had a holiday cookie tin selected for holding them in place for transport. It all worked well until I tried to arrange them together... and they scattered. (Oh duh, of course.) The two figures on the right are about as close as they can get, about 1/8-inch apart. Any closer, and one will get pushed up to a half inch away. And if one of the magnets is reversed, they (of course) jump together. It's absolutely useless for playing any miniatures game with rules for base contact, which is nearly all of them that don't use a grid... and grid placement would be fiddly at best, and a nuisance at worst. Meh. Out the magnets came. Let that be a lesson on what not to do for basing.
  10. Hey folks! People have been talking in different threads about Static Grass and Flock, and that they are either afraid to use them, or worried that when they are done, it wont look right. I am no expert, but I have based quite a few figures for Tabletop war-games such as Flames of War. I am one of those people who absolutely HATES to put unfinished figures on the Tabletop. In fact, I don't even bring unfinished figures to games, unless it is something like an escalation league... So here we go! First, What is this Stuff? Static Grass is some kind of fiber that holds static electricity to help it 'stand up' when applied to a base with some type of glue. It comes in many lengths, colors and blends from many different companies. Flock, or Flocking is some sort of foam, as far as I can tell. It is designed to mimic low vegetation and earth. It also comes in many grades, from fine to coarse, many different colors, from many different companies. Grass Tufts, or Tufts are basically pre-made clumps of Static Grass of different Colors and heights, often mixed together, and glued down in places where a bit of grass is needed, not a whole field or lawn. They come on sheets of plastic that you peel them off. Again many colors, heights, and companies. Some examples: Static Grasses This is Wild Grass, Light Beige, and is a taller (5mm vs 2mm) static Grass Harvest Gold Static Grass. 2mm This is the first type of Static Grass I ever used. It was originally packaged for Military Modelers. Farm Pasture Blend. This is a mix of Static Grass, Flock, and tiny pieces of Cork. This is called Meadow Blend, and is also Static Grass and Flock mixed. It has little bits of RED turf in it. They look like little flowers from Tabletop distance. This stuff is called 'Dead Fall Debris' and had quite a bit of stuff that was way to big for our purposes. I sifted out the big stuff, and put the smaller stuff in an old Parmesan Cheese shaker. Not sure if this is a blend of my own or a professional product.. Edit-->This is a mix of the long and short Beige Grasses, with the meadow blend. There being little tall Beige (less than an 1/8th), maybe a 1/4 of the blend is the short Beige Grass, the rest being the Meadow blend. This definitely my own Blend. It is called 'Tree Mix' because it is what I use when basing all the different trees for the tabletop games. Turfs: Tufts: These are 6 different colors and heights of Grass Tufts. This is a sampling from things that I have at hand, There are so many different types of this stuff that it would take it's own server to show all of it. That said, there are a couple of good model railroad supply companies with websites where you can see the variety of products. OK, you say what good is all this stuff? Well, I'll show you a few different uses for it. As I mentioned above, I play a Tabletop Miniature war-game called Flames of War. It is a Company level game in 15mm scale. The force levels are similar to what you would find in 40k. The biggest difference is that for infantry, you will normally have 3-5 figures per base, as opposed to one per base. (Think Froggy's Meerkat Army) Some examples: These 1st 2 are both US .30 caliber Machine gun teams. In fact 2 of the 3 figures on each base are the same. But notice the differences in the colors and amount of vegetation on each base. The 1st base is for my 3rd Armored Division troops fighting in Normandy and other parts of France after D Day. The 2nd base is for my 3rd Infantry Division troops fighting in Italy in 1943-44. Notice the green of France's hedgerow country versus the stony hillsides of Italy. People have used different flocks and such on bases to identify different platoons in the same company. More than one person actually used different colors of flock/turf/tuft Flowers to do this! This base is for my German Panzer Lehr force, also fighting in Normandy. It isn't the same as the #rd Armored base, but the mix of colors is the same. This is a Machine Gun Nest that I tried to make usable in either locale. These are some other pieces with bases and vehicles: This is my Beer Truck objective. (2nd place, Flames of War Objective, Historicon 2013) And an over-sized objective from 'Death Traps', a book about the 3rd Armored Division in France during WWII. So you can see that using these materials can change the look of your figures tremendously. Next installment will be some actual work in progress stuff. You can look at my DDS 2 thread if you are impatient. There are pics of me applying flock to the terrain pieces. Oh yeah, anyone out there ever see a movie called 'Kelly's Heroes'? Here is Oddball and his tank! Comments Welcome! Questions Too! 8) George
  11. Similar to my Dain Deepaxe, this is an old paint job that I re-based and lined recently. My desire to clean her up more is battling with my desire to move on, but there are some pretty gaping holes and my recent lining was a bit sloppy. So, since I'll likely spend more time on her - I'll consider her a WIP. Front Back
  12. This was a technique people asked about after I posted these: I'm not terribly comfortable with basing; handling glues and sand and tiny tufts of fake grass leaves me cold and worried about things holding together for games. But I do have a lot of painting experience. I have found I prefer to paint illusionistic bases rather than try to sculpt and assemble them. The above bases grew out of a bit of advice I had gotten to paint the base green before gluing down some fake grass. I started ... and it just kind of developed. I never did get to gluing down grass. And here, step-by-step, is how I did it. I started with this figure, Reaper 03019, Lathula, female barbarian. She's all painted and glued to a one-inch fender washer for stability (because she's a big girl and her base is kind of narrow). Her original broccoli base shows my priming method, paint white and wash with burnt umber. The base coat is a mix of yellow ochre (center left in the photo) and phthalocyanine green (the dark blob at the right). The green mixed between them looks brilliant because the lightweight phthalo floats to the top and the heavy yellow ochre sinks, but the actual color, a sort of olive, is more obvious on the mini. If using Reaper paints, yellow ochre is Palomino Gold and phthalo green is Clear Viridian (Clear Green can be substituted). After the initial coat, which is put on with a normal sable brush, I use small hog's bristle brushes to apply the paint. Any brush that has gone frazzled and rather stiff will do. On the left is the small flat brush I use for initial layers. It's a little bigger for better coverage. On the right is the round hog's bristle brush I use for later, more precise painting. Note that I have deliberately splayed out the hairs on this brush; this is the effect one needs. Any frazzed brush will do. If you have a sable or synthetic brush that has gone wild (especially if it is splaying sideways, very useful), it will produce a gentler blend than these brushes did, more like the ones at the top. The technique is to take a barely damp brush, touch it almost horizontally to the paint, blot most of the paint out, and touch it horizontally to the base with just a touch-and-lift action. This leaves impressions of the bristles on the base which in layers will look like grass. The colors are mixes of phthalo green. I try to alternate a few dark, transparent greens with pale or yellowed opaque greens. Dark transparent greens include mixes of phthalo green with burnt sienna (Chestnut Brown in Reaper paints), ultramarine blue (no equivalent, but Clear Blue is okay), burnt umber (not sure what that is in Reaper), and a touch of black. Light greens include mixes of phthalo with yellow ochre (Palomino Gold) and white, mostly, with the odd touch of hansa yellow (a really bright yellow). The first two layers were a little wet; I could have blotted the brush more. I didn't mind because I was laying on irregular color, but the more fastidious may prefer drier paint and grassy effects right from the start. By now I was using the smaller bristle brush. It's a little out of focus, but you can see how the texture is developing. I decided I didn't like how the broccoli base was going. It looked too much like broccoli. So I changed it to a rock, thinly painting a gray mixed from ultramarine blue, burnt sienna, and white right over the green. Letting the green show through a little makes the rock look more realistic. You can also see how pale grey-green and ivory-colored layers of grass look over the green. I put some more layers of brighter, transparent green on, and another shade of light yellow-green, and this is the result:
  13. Spamming more WIPs... I've been busy... I did this paint job a while back and just decided to base him. I went back in and did some lining, which helped, but now I'll need to clean up a bit.... hoping I didn't open a can of worms. front: back:
  14. So, I'm pretty happy with the paint job so far. The darker skin needs some highlighting and the hair needs attention. However, it is the base that I'm dragging on. I've just been throwing excess greenstuff at it after I base other minis and I have no direction. Maybe a lava stream in front of him? Water? Suggestions appreciated. :) Front: Back:
  15. The onslaught of WIPs continues... I know that KS3 deliveries are naught but a distant dream, but I'm sitting on a good number of unpainted minis and want to clear the backlog before I am swamped forever. Story with this mini: Was going to use him as a PC in an upcoming game, decided to switch classes... motivation to finish will be hard to come by. Front: Back:
  16. I've had a few people asking me about how I based my Bones in my W.I.P. thread, so tutorial time! Although this is a tutorial, I'm still new to the World of minis and mini painting and basing myself, and this is just things I've learned through tinkering and looking at things other people have done. You may have a better way of doing things, this is just how I've been basing my new Bones minis. I have two tutorials here, one for basing Bones onto pre-made bases with pins and one to incorporate the existing broccoli base onto a plain plastic base with green stuff. Pinning Bones onto pre-made bases: You will need: - Wire cutters (or something to cut the mini off of the base) - Push Drill / Pin Vice - Tweezers or Pliers - Sharp x-acto knife or scalpel for cleaning up the last of the base from around your mini's feet - Super glue - Thin wire or paperclips - Bones minis - Pre-made bases. I used some Micro Arts Studio 25mm resin bases - Sharpie Start by taking your wire cutters and cutting notches around the broccoli base, this will make it easier to trim off without damaging your mini's legs. I save most of my Bones base off-cuts, because I've found it handy to use as rocks and other things. After you've removed the bulk of the base remove the stuff in the middle. Don't worry if there's still a bit of base stuck to their feet. The feet are a bit messy, this is when you take your very sharp knife and gently clean up the edges. After I clean up the sides I'm often left with these big heels, to remove those I carefully insert my knife just under where the feet end and slice. Now we have nice clean feet! Drilling time! Take your time with this, keep pulling your drill out and cleaning the plastic out of it before putting it back in. The legs are very bendy but you shouldn't have too much trouble drilling a 2 - 3mm deep hole in each foot. Be careful to drill from where you know the drill can go up the leg, the last thing you want is to drill through the top of your mini's toes. I cut 2 5 - 6 mm long piece of wire to go in each foot. I know many people put a strand of wire in first, then cut it. It doesn't really matter which order you do it in. Apply a single drop of glue to the bottom of each foot, and using your tweezers or pliers push the wire into the hole you've drilled half-way. To to figure out where the holes will go in your base! I place the mini on the base and mark with a Sharpie where I should drill each hole in the base. Drill the hole in the resin base where you've placed the dots. Put another dot of glue in each hole you've just drilled in the base and insert your mini. Sometimes you'll need to hold your mini in the desired pose for a few minutes until the glue is dry enough for your mini to stand up on their own. Sometimes you'll be left with a small gap like this where you can see part of the pin under the foot. If this bothers you you can cover it with green stuff. Filled-in with green stuff! Now we're all done! Your mini is now secured firmly on a pre-made base and ready to go kill some Goblins. Sculpting your own base with green stuff: You will need: - Green stuff - Water and lubricant of some kind for the green stuff. (I use water based lubricant, but stuff like Vaseline works well too.) - Super glue - Sculpting tools - A bumpy rock - Bones base off-cuts or kitty litter to be used as small rocks - Bones mini - Plain base I'm using a small Fairy Dragon for this tutorial, but you can use anything. If your broccoli base over-laps the edge of your plain base a bit, just trim off the excess. To attach your mini to the base, put a few drops of super glue on the base and hold your mini there for a few minutes. I haven't covered the slot here because we're be covering it over with green stuff when the glue is dry anyhow. Mix some green stuff. I find while I'm mixing the green and yellow parts together, it helps to occasionally dip it in some water to stop it from sticking to my fingers. Then roughly place the green stuff onto your base around your mini. Now clean up the green stuff a bit more. When using sculpting tools with green stuff, dip them in lubricant first before applying them to the green stuff! If you don't your tools will stick to the green stuff, and you'll often end up pulling more material off than you put down. After the green stuff is dried any excess lubricant around can be wiped off with a cloth, so don't worry about using too much or having your paint not stick. I've never had a problem. No need to be too careful here, since we're about to add texture with our rock. Take your bumpy rock and push it into your prepared green stuff in fast, random motions. We're not going for uniformity here, so turn your rock around and make as much of a mess as you want. Texture added! Sometimes if I want things more random and chunky, you can add more holes with toothpicks or the end of a pencil. Now add some kitty litter or Bones base cut-offs as small rocks and viola; you're done! When I sculpt my own green stuff bases I don't tend to be too worried about covering the entirety of the original broccoli base, since they usually have a nice texture to them any way. I like re-basing my figures for stability and because I like the look of them mostly. After your green stuff has dried you can all sorts of things to make your base more interesting; like more rocks, small leafy bits, the sky is the limit. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.
  17. Hello folks, I'm trying to figure out how to base my Bones Gnolls (77012, 77104, 77235, 77236) on medium (1 inch) bases. After several failed attempts to somehow get the darn things on 1" round bases (74035) I finally overcame my OCD and bought some square bases. As much as it pains me I'd rather have them based and not matching all of the other miniatures than not based at all. It's worth noting that I intend to use these miniatures on a 1" grid battlemat, so just using larger bases is not desired. I purchased some "1 inch" square bases from Reaper (74038) thinking the Gnolls would fit. Unfortunately, the Reaper bases are beveled to 7/8". This isn't big enough and leaves one of the Gnolls' feet hanging off the side. If I flip the base upside down to compare I find that the Gnoll would just barely fit on a true 1" base. How are you guys basing your wide-stance miniatures? Is there a company that sells true 1" bases (without beveled edges)? Thank you in advance for any advice you can provide!
  18. Okay! So I finally had time to break out my camera equipment and take pics of the Spring Exchange, my Summer Exchange yet to go out and to be posted at a later date, and THIS Warzone Dino Guy that I painted up for my son. Turns out he's: Major Johan Emigholtz: Johan Emigholtz is something of an enigma to those who serve under him, which has served to enhance his reputation. Mounted on his saurian beast he is a dangerous close combat opponent. He is quite a young man to have achieved the rank of major in the 103rd Mounted Hussars of Duke Maximillian III. He is a driven man and despite his reputation for ruthlessness he is highly respected for his unswerving professionalism. Equipment: Explosive Tipped Lance, Machine Pistol, Machete. Special Abilities: Tactical Sense, Give Orders, Jungle Fighter, First Strike, Rally Others. Major Johan Emigholtz He's one of the figures from Jasper's Spaceship Superstar contest, and one that I knew my 4yr. old son would love! I did leave off the spear that came with him, as I figured Will may poke himself on it if he ever uses this figure for something other than looking at... which I don't foresee, but Maj. E is difficult enough to handle without an extra pokey part. The base is a 2" wood disk from Michael's, with a crackle paste surface done up in several fun colors, as it's just a fun piece for a 4yr old. I actually like the different colors and may play around with these effects in the future. I don't recall exactly how I did these as I've gotten extremely loose with notes here lately. I want to say they're done mostly with inks... Hmm... I actually had fits with the Major, as I think the dino came out pretty good. The dino was actually very smooth so he became somewhat of an exercise in texture. As far as Maj. E, I played a bit with real rust weathering that I made in house, and a few other things. At any rate, Will is extremely happy with him, and Maj. E has a home on the lowest shelf of our display cabinet so my son can see him anytime he wants to. Here are a few pics: I'm playing around with the auto collage feature on Picasa... Hmmm... At any rate, thanks for looking! I'll be posting what I painted for the Summer Exchange once Generic Fighter verifies he received the package. -K P.S.: Here's the link to the original WIP... There's not much there, but you can see how they started off. LOL!
  19. Rescued this little guy out of a melt bin at Reaper HQ and thought he'd be something nice and small to practice basing on. Since I forgot April's resolutionary painting target was for 5 miniatures and not 4, I needed the extra one, anyway! This is my first experience with wilderness tufts and their ilk, and I'm still pretty new at this whole "greenstuffing a base" thing. Any suggestions? I'm not really happy with painting the edge of the base green, but the grass didn't seem like it would survive...
  20. Okay! So here's the diorama that I put together for Samurai Jack. I wasn't exactly sure what I was going to do at the start, but this piece just kind of came together spontaneously as I'd been wanting to paint Enora Leena for a while. I'd originally envisioned a desert garb for her, but when I picked up a few goblins during an out of town trip, this took place... SHE BE QUEEN!!! Leena Puddlefoot had always been curious about the true power. She’d dabbled with it as a youngster, watching every magician, wizard, sorcerer and conjurer who came through town with wide-eyed wonder. Over the years, the bright young child used her intelligence (and many a burned fingertip!) to perfect her own unique repertoire of the arcane arts. She read books, viewed shows, pestered those in the know, and took every opportunity to learn. As her skill grew, tales of her abilities traveled far and attracted the ear of a very powerful group of arcane masters. The head of the guild, one Alejandro Bumplegut, visited Leena in her home under the guise of a wandering beggar. The kindhearted Leena took pity on the guild master in disguise, offering him room and board in her meager home, then dazzled him with a colorful display of light, shadow and other arcane manifestations. Master Bumplegut saw that the young Leena had indeed grown powerful, even more so than she realized. At once, in a blaze of dizzying blue light, Master Bumplegut threw off his disguise and offered Leena a place in the guild where she could hone her craft and become a true master. The price for admission? The guild had need of a rare element known as Heavy Suruptanium, only found deep in the land of M’Kyarr, the home of the goblin lords. If she could recover a “shoe’s worth†of the element, she would be admitted to the guild with full honors. It was a dangerous task, but the lure of the guild was a grand reward. She accepted on the spot. Deep within the goblin territory, Leena used her skill to convince two brave (and silly!) goblins that she was indeed the long awaited Goblin Queen of Prophecy, and required a great, greenish throne to sit on. One long and awkward journey later, Kragg and Scrum delivered her to the source of the rare element, echoing their joyous proclamation to all who would listen: “SHE BE QUEEN! SHE BE QUEEN!†Now begins the true test of her journey: How on earth would she ever convince her new (and rambunctious!) friends to allow her to leave with “a shoe’s worth†of the element? A sly grin crossed her face as she reached into a small pocket deep within the folds of her robe. They had given a small goblin village a wide berth earlier in the day. Why stop at two underlings when you could have twenty? She could just see the look on Master Bumplegut’s face when she returned with her rag-tag band of loyal followers. Somedays, it was good to be the Queen... I attempted several firsts while putting this diorama together: 1. I experimented with a black stain. I think it came out pretty good, although I think given more time, I'd have figured out a way to put gold flakes in the recesses... Hmmmmm... 2. I painted my first fire! I was concerned that it wouldn't come out that great, but for a first attempt, I'm pretty satisfied. I didn't throw in OSL, but I do have a class coming up at ReaperCon! 3. I got to use my rust effects. I'd made rust a while back and figured the goblins would be ideal to try them out on. They worked, but I think I may have gotten carried away! A lot of the metallics I put into the work ended up brown. LOL! 4. I was pleased with the wasted metal look on the "Heavy Suruptanium." They're just chunks of cork left over from the "Mothers" diorama, gesso'd and painted with Scale 75 metallics... and rust effects... Anyhoo, here are way too many pics... Leena Close-Up: Scrum Close-Up (sorry he's a bit blurry): Kragg Close-Up: At any rate, it was a lot of fun, and I hope Samurai Jack enjoys it! Comments and questions are always appreciated and encouraged! Thanks for reading! -K
  21. The Male was done for March, the female for April. Comments and Critiques are welcome. attempted new technique (paint dots) and basing
  22. I'm currently looking through my unpainted OLD miniatures and thinking about finishing off some of them. I have a feeling that this is going to result in a shift in direction in my miniatures hobby for the next year or so, but we'll see. Like this guy: Anyway, I'm looking for some basing suggestions. I usually use a variety of pretty simple treatments, since I want the bases to remain fairly unobstrusive when gaming. The problem here is that I don't know whether these are more likely to be deployed in dungeons (on a Dark Platypus mat) or on various green ground cloths in skirmish games. Any pointers on something that would look natural and unobtrusive on a variety of surfaces? My favorite easy mixed use treatment so far is a half/half mix of brown gravel and grass, like these 1/72 scale fantasy skirmish figures.
  23. Alright! Here he is! It's mini #2 for this year... Yup, #2! If I get any faster, I'll blow my chance at last place in the number of minis completed for the year! This piece was assembled for a friend of mine who doesn't have a game piece for when we play Munchkin or whatever. He does now, and I think he came out pretty well for a table top piece. I'm pretty satisfied, although I apparently had some issues with outgassing. I'm guessing the thin super glue that was used to mount the debris on the bottom wasn't quite dry when I put him in the display case. As a result, I had a slight cloudy area where he was sitting, and the coin has taken on a frosty looking patina. I suppose it works, but from now on, everyone's staying OUTSIDE of the display case overnight, just in case. Okay! Here's what I tried to work on with this piece: 1. Freehand - I attempted a plaidish pattern on his bedroll. It gave me fits. I do believe that I will have fits with freehand the rest of the year as it's one of the main things I plan on working on. I also attempted a bit on his lower tabard (?), but I ended shading it down to make it look worn as I couldn't quite get it right. At any rate, I'm working towards getting better in this area. 2. The Coin Base - I'm trying to expand my basing experience. I really enjoy basing and got this idea from Massive Voodoo and decided to try it. Unfortunately the coin got the weird patina, which I think works, but I would've preferred to have it "prettier." Also, coins are hard to drill through.... at least this one was! Willen was kind enough to do some research on the origin of the coin, which can be read in the WIP of this piece. 3. The Trap - Will Harsk notice the spikes before it's too late? Will he make his saving throw? Who knows! At any rate, the trap was a happy accident. The bricks I used were strangely shaped bricks from Secret Weapon that I've had for a while. They looked great around the coin as they're curved, but don't work well at all for making a solid form radiating out from the coin. I played with different configurations, until I found a pattern I liked with squarish spaces between them. It looked like a perfect pressure plate booby trap opportunity, so I drilled (used an awl really) holes in the spaces and stuck toothpick points through them. Instant spike trap! The rest of the thing is made up of a wooden checker, matte board, a cork to glue the board to, and milliput to make up the earthen base. Of course there's flock (which is still shedding, according to the pics) and Army Painter plants for fun! The underside of the platform is potting soil or whatever it was the kids brought home in those plant projects that never seem to sprout... Anyhoo, here's Harsk, in all his rangering glory: He was fun to paint, and I hop Toph enjoys him! Please leave C&C and let me know what you think. I may drag him along to ReaperCon if Toph will let me. Now I can finally move on to the Spring Exchange and a new diorama for ReaperCon. Hope to see y'all there! -K P.S.: NO, I did not purposefully ruin the plant projects. They'd been sitting around for a year or so before I even used some of the soil. LOL!
  24. First attempt. Base from mageknight. the mocking beast is not on a base, so it was simply gluing and painting. I didn't even bother with green stuffing the cracks This is a friends PC from a 13th age game. He is the only dwarf that poops gold. Because of this painful curse he has separated himself from dwarven society and become a overland ranger. He gave me the figure and asked me to paint it. so it is entirely his fault that I added a gold nugget behind him, and the bushes as concealment, Now that im looking at it, I am thinking that the character uses a throwing axe in each hand... but I don't think I have an extra axe anywhere. The axes don't have to match, they are both magical from different sources. Comments welcome. Does it need some rocks? Do found rocks work well in basing?
  25. Here's what took me all month to finish, which is slow even for me! Of course, I dealt with a sinus infection and all sort of other nastiness during January, along with it being a pretty dark and bleak month. At any rate, I was slow. I attempted to do some freehand which I REALLY need to work on. Hopefully I can find a class or two at Reapercon to help with this I did something different than my regular basing, trying out one of the bases from Micro Art Studio. I think I was just feeling lazy after all the major basing I did back in December. I didn't have to build it, but man, there was a lot of detail in there to paint! Unfortunately, it looks like she dried with a bit of "woah" to her angle. She was upright on that log last night, but it's not drastic enough to mess with, and her pin is very, very tentative. I'm worried that something would break should I mess with her much. The original plan was to also experiment with OSL and sculpting. I was going to make a little tree guy emerging from the ground, but ran out of time. I may go back and add one in later... maybe... For now I'm moving on as this took so much time for me to finish this month. Anyhoo, with ReaperCon approaching, I should kick out more over the coming months. January was just... slow.... very slow... LOL! Comments and questions are always welcomed! Thanks for taking a look. -K
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